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Shifts & Strands: Rethinking The Possibilities And Potentials Of Textiles: Textile Society Of America 2024 Symposium--Full Program With Abstracts

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Shifts & Strands: Rethinking the Possibilities and Potentials of Textiles

Textile Society of America 2024 Symposium, November 12-17, 2024, a virtual event

Theme and mission

Accessibility statement

About the 2024 symposium logo

Letter from the President, Isaac Facio

Letter from the Co-Vice President, Sharbreon Plummer

Letter from the Co-Vice President Symposia Chair, L Vinebaum

2024 symposium acknowledgements

Symposium organizers

Program agenda

Keynote and plenary sessions

Session abstracts

Awards and scholarships

Congratulations to the 2024 Founding President awardees

2024 winner of the R. L. Shep Award

2024 Student / New Professional Scholarship recipients

Repatriation And Conservation, Sandra Sardjono, Kristal Hale, Christopher Buckley, Saiful Bakhri, Absari Hanifah

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textile represents one of the most important cultural heritages in Indonesia and is an integral part of social and religious lives of traditional communities. Due to colonial impact, shifts in indigenous belief systems and values, modernization, and tourism, many textiles have left their original environments. Many gained new contexts as museum objects housed in regional museums or private collections in Indonesia and abroad.

In Indonesian museums, these objects are cared for by museum staff with various backgrounds and levels of expertise, who are shifted to new positions every two-three years by the Indonesian Ministry. This methodology is intended as a …

Tactility And Historicity In Contemporary Textile Art: The Greek Example, Markia Liapi

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The following presentation focuses on studying contemporary textile art through two concepts, originating from contemporary theory of art, tactility and historicity. While tactility describes aesthetic, and specifically tactile qualites of textiles as pieces of art, historicity focuses on more theoretical concerns that the artistic piece proposes on the viewer. The paper analyses these two tools as a stystem of examining and, also, enjoying contemporary textile art, focusing on a concrete paradigm, the example of three contemporary Greek artists, Voula Massoura, Giwta Andriakaina and Artemis Alcalay. The artistic production of these artists is a valuable example of seeing textile art in …

The Stamina Of Things: Jean Toury's Nightshirt, Janet Pollock

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

“Stamina. from Latin stamen (Pliny), literally "foundation in weaving, thread of the warp" ......also threads spun by the Fates.”

A seasoned forager of forest and flea markets, I have tempered my eye to both the unassuming and the unexpected. I make and study textiles of every stripe. The subject of my presentation, this nightshirt, traveled 5500 miles and 80 years to reach my neck of the woods. Tailor-made and monogrammed, well-worn and deeply stained, it was suddenly dispatched into the world, to be sold "as is". I asked and was given a name, a place and a date. Jean Toury. …

The Petticoat: Details Of A Forgotten Garment In Mexico City (1900–1910), Nallely Rangel Vázquez

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During Porfirian government, Mexican society experienced a flourishing of the textile industry driven by state policies that encouraged both the rise of the national industry and foreign investment. This process was perceived from the daily life of the capital, through the windows of silk shops, shoe shops, warehouses and, above all, the imposing department store El Palacio de Hierro. One of the garments that was designed to fit at the waist and cover the legs was the petticoat, which was assumed to be a piece of female underwear. In this article, I am interested in unravelling details findings about this …

Woven Symphony: Exploring The Parallels Between Weaving And Music, Qianwen Yu

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Weaving and music are art forms often perceived as unrelated but actually share deep connections and fascinating similarities. In this presentation, I will first briefly introduce the impact of the 19th-century Jacquard loom on the invention of the Player Piano, a musical technology that evolved into the modern "MIDI" computer audio notation system. Second, I will explore the similarities found in both weaving and musical composition by presenting some of my own media installation art works. These works translate musical scores into woven textures, and vice versa, creating symphonies and revealing new sensory ways to appreciate textiles and music. I …

A Foreign Perspective Of Early Modern Dance In Estonia: How Ella Ilbak’S Photographic Image (1915-1948) Changed My Life, Karl E. Toepfer

Open Educational Resources

This essay describes how Estonian modern dancer Ella Ilbak (1895-1997) used photography to shape and promote her identity as a dance artist. The essay compares photographic images of Ilbak with paintings and drawings of her. It also describes the evolving and unstable relationships with photographers that Ilbak pursued over nearly thirty years (12915-1948).

Fr1: Comics, Cyborgs, And “In Between” Identities, Ella Lehavi

Scripps Senior Theses

As a queer Jew who grew up surrounded by immigrant cultures and communities, I find myself in a liminal space between my identities and the dominant culture of my country– one where my perspective on gender and my cultural experiences aren’t fully understood by the world I exist in. Comics and cartoons are an explorational platform for concepts of reality and identity; they are one of very few spaces where I see my identities explored with so much depth and care.

Cartoons and comics exist in between realistic depictions and abstraction. This makes them a great place to express all …

Beyond Grotesque: Contemporary Artists Confronting Abjection, Katherine Gemperline

Graduate Thesis Exhibition Catalogue Gallery, 2024

The artists in Beyond Grotesque: Contemporary Artists Confronting Abjection address the monstrous aspects of life by portraying repulsive encounters in a direct manner. In its abject nature, the grotesque defies conventional notions of art as beautifying. The contemporary artists in Beyond Grotesque subvert the idea that beauty is an indication of good moral character and instead, they assert the grotesque as a device that challenges our expectations of the good and expands our humanity.

Yvonne Petkus delves into the intricacies of struggle, survival, and vulnerability within the human experience. Through pieces like Headwind, Collapse, and Colossus, Petkus portrays the …

Present Time Company: A Global Media Entity Dedicated To Documenting, Illustrating, And Expressing Art And Cultural Narratives From The Chinese Standpoint To The World, Yixuan Helen Han

MA Projects

Present Time Company, a trailblazing entity at the convergence of innovative storytelling and diverse art and culture, aims to demystify the art world and make cultural experiences accessible to all. The company strategically blends Eastern and Western art perspectives, excels in dynamic content creation, and leverages social media adeptly in a competitive landscape. Opportunities arise from the burgeoning Asian art market, global interest in diverse cultural narratives, and the
potential for strategic partnerships. The marketing strategy focuses on brand awareness, audience engagement, and community cultivation, seamlessly integrating art into daily life through diverse content and strategic collaborations. The pricing model, …

Business Proposal Of Online Copyright Protection Platform For Digital Assets, Zehui Feng

MA Projects

Copyright protection is crucial for digital art assets as they are easily replicable and distributable in the digital realm. Without proper protection, artists and creators face the risk of unauthorized use, infringement, and loss of control over their work. Copyright protection ensures that artists receive recognition for their creations, have the ability to monetize their work, and maintain control over its usage. The proposed copyright protection platform aims to provide a comprehensive solution for safeguarding digital art assets. Drawing inspiration from successful platforms like Digimarc, Getty Images, and Copyscape, our platform will incorporate advanced technologies such as digital watermarking, extensive …

The Birth Of "A Painting": You Yong Solo Exhibition, Dongpeng Wang

MA Projects

Curator Wang Dongpeng takes great pride in unveiling "The Birth of 'A Painting'," an exclusive solo exhibition by the renowned painter You Yong. In this thoughtprovoking display, You Yong harnesses the simplicity of the iPad to craft vivid artworks that capture the essence of individual lives amidst the pandemic. His pieces offer a window into the lived realities within mainland China during these challenging times. This exhibition is an invitation to an extraordinary art experience that breaks free from the confines of traditional art space, promising to leave viewers with lasting impressions. The Birth of "A Painting" stands as a …

Selenophile: Modernity In Tradition, Junghoon Lee

MA Projects

Selenophile: Modernity in Tradition examines contemporary moon jars created by five different artists. The primary goal of this exhibition is to expand interest in the moon jar and emphasize their significance and value within Western culture. Notably, moon jar exhibitions are not commonly accessible in the United States, which further validates the importance of this exhibition. Additionally, the growing market for moon jars in Eastern culture and the increasing attention given to moon jar auctions in the United States contribute to the authenticity of this exhibition. In other words, the exhibition serves as an introduction to contemporary moon jars for …

Unveiling Urban Photographs: The Evolution Of Street Photography Through Cameras, The New York Photo League, And Visionaries Lisette Model And Helen Levitt, Isabella Danesi

MA Theses

Street photography is a visual art that began to pick up in popularity in the 20th century especially in large cities like New York. There was so much going on in the world at the times and it was a perfect opportunity for aspiring artists to go out into the streets and capture the realities of what was happening. This thesis dives into the origins of street photography as well as an emphasis on the development and shaping of street photography while being used in urban settings in the 20th century. A discussion of the technological development of the camera …

Digital Reproduction: The Degradation Of Art Viewership, Zoe Wallis Weingarten

MA Theses

This thesis explores the impact of the ease of photographic reproduction on the
/="/">experience of contemporary art viewership. This study establishes historical precedent and explains the phenomenon of the serial photographic reproduction of works of art by contemporary audiences. In doing so, the thesis identifies the implications of reproductions on the original work of art they replicate as well as the consequences of such reproduction. The photographic duplication of artworks in the museum allows the viewer to recommodify the artwork, become its quasi-possessor, and alter its meaning and function. This study is centered around the argument that this widespread …

When Divergent Worlds Collide: Dr. Santiago Ramón Y Cajal’S Influence On The Surrealism Movement, William J. Hardman Iii, Md

MA Theses

Dr. Santiago Ramón y Cajal’s drawings were created for the sole purpose of illustrating his newly discovered and earth-shattering revelations in the field of neuroscience culminating with his magnum opus: the “Neuron theory” and the “Theory of Dynamic Polarization.” For these discoveries and many others, he shared the 1906 Nobel Prize in medicine and physiology with his rival Dr. Camilo Golgi, an Italian pathologist. At no time did he envision that his drawings would capture the interest of artists as it did with members of the Surrealism Movement. This thesis will explore and present for the first time supporting evidence …

Preventive Conservation Of Easel Paintings For Collectors In China: Navigating Challenges And Exploring Feasible Solutions, Di Lu

MA Theses

This thesis explores the unique challenges faced by art collectors in China, particularly those investing in easel paintings amidst the rapid growth of the Chinese art market. These collectors, often constrained by budget limitations and limited access to high-quality conservation materials and expertise, face significant risks in preserving their cultural assets. The study delves into these specific risks and challenges, aiming to identify feasible strategies for preventive conservation within the Chinese context. Through an extensive review of literature, qualitative interviews with conservators, collectors, and experts, and in-depth case studies, this research offers practical, cost-effective recommendations for alternative materials and methods …

The Great Mess Of Auction Catalogues, Hector Yuyang Chen

MA Theses

Ever since the Covid Pandemic in 2020, auction houses around the world have changed their policies on printed auction catalogues - many simply did not print auction catalogues, or at a much-reduced volume; publishing instead the information online. The issue here is evident: without public access, auction houses have the ability to manipulate data and self-regulate their records. This can result in a skewed presentation of data that favours their interests while concealing less favourable information. Public archives have already suggested their frustrations in this trend, most notably, at the Paul Mellon Centre: “Catalogues have been acquired in the following …

The Effects Of Ai Image Synthesis On Graphic Design, Ji Ren

MA Theses

From 1763 when Thomas Bayes developed a framework to infer event probabilities, to the end of 2022 when the world-renowned AI research laboratory Open AI launched Chat GPT, a language model based on AI technology, statistical computing-based AI has revolutionized human life. AI image synthesis can simulate the processes and methods of human painting through machine learning, deep learning, and other methods, thereby generating high-fidelity images. There is growing concern about how AI image synthesis will affect the art world as it advances. The art market could be reimagined, authorship and creativity concepts challenged, and traditional artistic practices disrupted by …

Ethical Dilemmas In Art Advisory Services: Navigating Influence In The Art Market, Noah G. Tyler

MA Theses

This scholarly exploration delves into the ethical dimensions inherent in
providing art advisory services within the dynamic milieu of the New York art
market. The spotlight is aptly directed towards influential entities such as
Gagosian Art Advisory, Lisa Schiff, Pace Gallery, Acquavella Galleries, Allan
Schwartzman, and The Brant Foundation. This diverse array of players vividly
illustrates the complexity of the ethical discourse prevailing in this intricate
landscape. The convergence of commerce and creativity leads to profound
inquiries regarding conflicts of interest, transparency, and the responsible
custodianship of cultural heritage, thereby unveiling the intricate relationships
underpinning the art world. The significance …