Digital Commons Network^™

Thangchhuah Puan: The Highest Status Mantle Among The Mizo People Of Northeastern India, Barbara G. Fraser, David W. Fraser

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Mizo are a large sub-group of the Chin (also known as the Zo, Lai or Kuki), a loosely related group of two million people living in the hills of western Myanmar (Burma), northeastern India, and southeastern Bangladesh. The Mizo strive to attain merit through success in hunting, war, accumulation of wealth, and communal feast giving involving a series of five separate feasts. A Mizo man who has either hosted two complete series of five communal feasts or killed an entire series of wild animals attains the greatest merit and is known as Thangchhuahpa. Such men were held in high …

Embroidered Relations In Kutch: Women, Stitching And The Third Space, Michele A. Hardy

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The embroidery of Gujarat State in India is relatively well known to Western textile enthusiasts. Often referred to as shisha or abla embroidery in reference to the tiny mirrors it includes, it is the subject of numerous books and exhibitions some of which were organized to help preserve traditions from the 1960's. Jain's seminal work, Folk art and culture of Gujarat (1980), for example, catalogues the Shreyas Collection, developed in the late 1970's in anticipation of the demise of many folk crafts in Gujarat. This paper examines the fraught context of embroidery in Kutch, the largest district in Gujarat, since …

Queen Alexandra’S 1902 Coronation Gown, Donald Clay Johnson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Queen Victoria's wearing black mourning clothes for 40 of the 63 years of her reign prompted much discussion between fashion-setting Prince Edward and Princess Alexandra about what should the new queen wear for her coronation, the first state occasion in which they, as king and queen, could define taste and fashion for what was to become the Edwardian era. With such a long interval of time since the last coronation there were no strong expressions of traditional attire for such a ritual occasion which prompted the new king and queen to think expansively about the roles and functions the coronation …

Analyses Of Dye, Weaving And Metal Thread In Ottoman Silk Brocades And Their Reproduction, Recep Karadag, Emine Torgan, Yusuf Yildiz

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Some Ottoman silk brocades samples were provided from Topkapi Palace Museum collection in Istanbul. In this study, an analytical method based on a RP-HPLC-DAD is developed for the identification of dyestuffs in the historical art objects. The extraction of dyestuffs from the silk brocades was carried out with hydrochloric acid / methanol / water solution. The most important dyestuffs detected were natural dyes apigenin, indigotin, carminic acid, ellagic acid, etc. dyes which are found in historical silk brocades. Analyses of historical samples were compared with analyses of unmordanted silk, mordanted silk, biological sources, silk dyed according to historical recipes and …

Knit And Crochet Heritage Museum: A Work In Progress, Karen D. Kendrick-Hands

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The concept of a Knitting Heritage Museum arose from a perceived need to collect, preserve, document and share knitted and crocheted objects, tools, and related study materials. This entity would raise the status of knitting and crochet, and create opportunities for scholarly research and enhanced visibility, as achieved by quilting and other fiber art centers. The author has concluded, after interactions with various museums and textile collections, that knitting and crochet are generally underrepresented. For valid reasons, documentation of objects that do exist is often incomplete or inaccurate and access for both study and exhibit is extremely limited. Although a …

The Cultural Politics Of Textile Craft Revivals, Suzanne Macaulay, Jillian Gryzlak

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This proposal is for a joint presentation by professor and graduate student critically appraising the cultural politics of textile revitalization projects. We envision our presentational framework to be modeled on a conversation, which compares the implications of our different experiences as a folklorist doing fieldwork in Colorado's San Luis Valley and a weaver participating in a workshop located in the Bargath district of Orissa, India. One of our main interests, which is conditioned by the assumption that "all tradition is change," examines the political basis for such workshops that attempt to revive traditional crafts as economic redevelopment projects. Questions arise …

The Politics Of Pastoralism: Navajos, Churras And The Challenges Of Sustainability In A Globalizing World, Kathy A. M'Closkey

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Navajos, or Dine', were dramatically affected by rapid changes in two of the three largest post- Civil War domestic industries: agriculture and textiles. In my 2010 TSA paper, I revealed how changes in the wool tariff triggered an escalation in textile production by thousands of Navajo weavers, as traders sought ways to market the unstandardized wool clip. Another under researched aspect of Navajo history concerns how the federal government's haphazard attempts in up-breeding Navajo flocks to national market standards triggered a failed development policy, resulting in the reduction of one-half their livestock during the Depression. For sixty years the government …

The Many Shades Of Cochineal Red Workshop Review And Recap, Tal Landeau

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Michel Garcia’s workshop The Many Shades of Cochineal Red at the in Arlington Arts Center in Arlington, Virginia, was packed with multiple steaming pots, a couple of blown fuses and multiple vibrant hues of red, purples and oranges. Garcia demonstrated how the selection of mordanting processes used in conjunction with cochineal dye resulted in different nuances of the color red in the final dyed cloth and yarn. As a bonus and demonstration of other reds from natural dyes, Garcia also used madder to dye more fiber.

The three mordanting methods outlined by Garcia were what he called the classical method, …

“By Your Exertions Conjointly With Ours”: British Printed Cottons In Brazil, 1827-1841, Sarah B. Parks

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Beginning with the arrival of Portuguese colonists in 1500, Brazil attracted the attention of traders throughout the Atlantic world. England's close commercial and political ties with Portugal, and later with Brazil itself, allowed British merchants to dominate trade with the South American state. By the second quarter of the nineteenth century, the production of printed cottons in Britain had expanded thanks to technical and chemical innovations. Simultaneously, the new nation of Brazil developed trade policies favoring British goods, including desirable printed textiles. In 1834, just twelve years after declaring independence from Portugal, Brazil became the single largest market for English …

History Under Foot: Politics, Patriotism, And The “Liberty Rug”, Amy Poff

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In January 1918 President Woodrow Wilson was given a Karnak Wilton carpet woven by the Shuttleworth Brothers Company of Amsterdam, New York, and inspired in part by the Statue of Liberty lighting ceremony he officiated in 1916. Featuring at its center the Statue of Liberty, surrounded by symbols of America's past and present, the rug remained at the White House throughout Wilson's presidency. Presented shortly after America's entrance into World War I and just weeks after Wilson's now-famous "Fourteen Points" speech, this "Liberty Rug" provided a symbolic narrative of the triumph of American progress while serving as physical proof of …

A Wari Tapestry Textile In A Tiwanaku Tomb From The Osmore Valley, Moquegua, Peru, Amy Oakland

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the Andes, ancient textiles have been discovered in abundance in the elite tombs of royal personages. The arid climate particular to the coast of Peru and northern Chile has preserved outstanding collections of these textiles. Exquisite textiles at the site of Chimu Capac in the Supe Valley on Peru's central coast were discovered in the beginning of the twentieth century by German archaeologist Max Uhle sponsored by Californian Phoebe Hearst. Many of the artifacts from Chimu Capac attest to elite status and the site may have been a burial ground for Wari administrators or even perhaps Wari royals in …

Liturgical Vestments For Cathedrals During The French Concordat Period (1801-1905) A Political Strategy, Maria Anne Privat Savigny

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

After the Concordat of 1801, the French Church has a new status: the Cult Administration has been founded and becomes a powerful mean for controlling and financing religious art projects as well as a strong political implement for each political regime during the 19th century. We propose to study the impact of this policy on the orders and financing of pontifical vestments for bishops when they celebrate the Mass in their cathedral. Pontifical vestments are at the center of the Mass celebration as a symbol of the agreement existing between the State and the Church. This financing policy has been …

Challenging The Politics Of Creating Art In The 21st Century: An Artist/Educator's Perspective, Claire Campbell Park

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The politics of creating art pertains to assumptions relating to a given cultural sphere or theory that are concerned with power and status in society. From the perspective of an artist and educator, I will question prevalent assumptions in the contemporary culture of making and teaching art, and present alternative approaches inspired by textile artists from diverse cultures. What makes art "strong" - must we assume attitudes and mediums traditionally in the male domain? Are art students encouraged to "fit in" to the current scene, as opposed to developing their own creative integrity? Does "pushing the envelope" necessarily mean "beyond …

Ancient Emblems, Modern Cuts: Weaving And The State In Southeastern Indonesia, Ian Pollock

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Since antiquity, the peoples of the modern state of Indonesia have used textiles to communicate identity. Lines of male and female descent, clan and caste, allegiance to kingdoms both old and new, religion and spiritual accomplishment, and many other identifying characteristics are encoded into the hundreds of discrete textile traditions that continue to thrive across the archipelago. For the last fifteen years, the Indonesian state has actively engaged with traditional textile culture in ways that co-opt and alter these systems of meaning. The evolving relationship between traditional weavers and the state offers a window onto a nation struggling to reconcile …

Textiles' Treasure From Jericho Cave 38 In The Qarantal Cliff Compared To Other Early Medieval Sites In Israel, Orit Shamir, Alisa Baginski

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

768 textile fragments were discovered at a cave near Jericho, Israel. They display a remarkable variety of materials (silk, cotton, linen, wool and goat-hair) and techniques suggesting their diverse geographical origins. Most significant are the silk fragments made in various techniques, some of them requiring sophisticated looms, and a large group of textiles with S-spun linen warps and Z-spun cotton wefts which is unique to the site. Most of these fragments were parts of clothing (e.g. trousers, tunics, coifs). Others could be recognized as bags, wrappers and strips for tying. Why was such a large quantity of used textiles stored …

The Reluctant Reformer: May Morris’ United States Lecture Tour Of 1909-1910, Natasha Thoreson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Known in America both as the daughter of beloved British Arts and Crafts leader William Morris and as the talented designer and embroiderer of Morris & Company's sensational Fruit Garden portieres, May Morris arrived in New York in October 1909 to begin a five-month lecture tour of the United States. Bombarded by questions from an excited press relating to her work and the Arts and Crafts movement, Morris was caught off-guard by questions on a topic she did not expect: her thoughts on America's burgeoning women's rights movement. As a woman confidently treading new ground in the textile arts, Morris …

Making (In) Brooklyn: The Production Of Textiles, Meaning, And Social Change, Tali Weinberg

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Brooklyn, NY has become one hotbed of activity for alternative economies defined as small, intimate, and artisanal. This includes emergent practices in "local" and "handmade" textiles?particularly by young women?that have recently caught the attention of scholars. Based on ethnographic fieldwork centered at the new Textile Arts Center in Brooklyn, this paper explores how and why producers of such textiles are inscribing their practices of making and the materiality of textiles with new meanings and intentions as they navigate the systems they seek to change. It further explores how their practices, and their understandings of these practices, are linked to globalized …

Knitting The News And Other Stories, Adrienne Sloane

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Knitting shapes have long been defined by the human form. By moving the context of knitting from clothing geometry to sculpture, knitting becomes a medium with a link to a rich and complex fiber tradition that has the power of history behind it. Aspiring to dissolve the boundaries between craft, art and politics, I knit to rejoin the frayed and unraveled places I see around me. As I work, I am responding viscerally to the constant assault of the unsettling news that pours out of the radio in my studio. To protest recent wars, I have often worked with body …

Textiles And Politics – Dishtowels And Diatribes, Carol D. Westfall

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

When a Dutch curator invited my students and me to join an international group of felt makers to create felt balls for peace, I sent mine to them encased in barbed wire. My life has been marked by war. My Dad fought in the Second World War, my high school colleagues in the Korean War and those who returned joined me as freshmen in college. My husband served in Vietnam and various acquaintances in my hometown of Jersey City, New Jersey served in the first Gulf War and now serve in Afghanistan and Iraq. At age 4, I was so …

Textile Society Of America- Abstracts And Biographies

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

TSA Abstracts and Biographies, September 2012.

Complications Of Total Hip Replacement, Kashif Abbas, Ghulam Murtaza, Masood Umer, Haroon Rashid, Irfan Qadir

Section of Orthopaedic Surgery

Objective: To determine the factors causing complications in unilateral total hip replacement.
Study Design: Analytical study.
Place and Duration of Study: The Aga Khan University Hospital, Karachi, between 2000 and 2010.
Methodology: During the study period, 199 patients underwent elective unilateral total hip replacement at the Aga Khan University Hospital. Patients were divided into two groups on the basis of postoperative complications within 30 days of surgery. Significant factors at 5% significance level on univariate analysis were further analyzed by multivariate logistic regression.
Results: Postoperative complications occurred in 39 patients (19.6%); dislocation being most common in 13 patients (6.5%), followed …

Contents, First Amendment Law Review

First Amendment Law Review

No abstract provided.

Unh: The Magazine Of The University Of New Hampshire, Fall 2012, Unh Magazine

UNH Magazine

Archived version of web content originally found at https://unhmagazine.unh.edu/pastissues.html

Elected Judges And Statutory Interpretation, Aaron-Andrew P. Bruhl, Ethan J. Leib

University of Chicago Law Review

This Article considers whether differences in methods of judicial selection should influence how judges approach statutory interpretation. Courts and scholars have not given this question much sustained attention, but most would probably embrace the "unified model," according to which appointed judges (such as federal judges) and elected judges (such as many state judges) are supposed to approach statutory text in identical ways. There is much to be said for the unified model—and we offer the first systematic defense of it. But the Article also attempts to make the best case for the more controversial but also plausible contrary view: that …

Public Choice And Law's Either/Or Inclination (Reviewing Why The Law Is So Perverse By Leo Katz), Saul Levmore

University of Chicago Law Review

No abstract provided.

The Banner - V. 147, No. 9 - (September 2012), Christian Reformed Church In North America

The Banner

6 - Editorial: Not Bad by Bob De Moor / 7 - Catch Your Breath: Reality Check by Rebecca Jordan Heys / 8 - IMHO: Getting Ready for Church by Calvin Seerveld / 8 - Letters to the Editor / 10 - News: Colorado Church Responds to Theater Shooting / 17 - Frequently Asked Questions / 18 - Negotiating Coffee Time: Introverts at Church by Otto Selles / 20 - Leadership: Peanut Butter to Potblessings: A Guide to Finding a New Church Home by Brian Pikkaart / 22 - Bringing the Seminary to You by Nathan Bierma and Peter Choi …

Gerald A. Notaro Collection Of St. Pete Pride Archives : A Collection Guide, Amber Thessen, Gerald A. Notaro

Special Collections and University Archives Legacy Finding Aids: All Items

Gerald A. Notaro, librarian emeritus at USF St. Petersburg, donated his collection of photographs and ephemera from St. Pete Pride, an annual event in the Grand Central District that has grown into one of the largest gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgendered (LGBT) celebrations in the southeastern United States. The rich collection of photographic images documents St. Pete Pride events in the early 2000s. Notaro donated these items on 15 March 2012, shortly before his retirement from the USFSP faculty.

The Ecology Of Vocation, Terri L. Elton

Faculty Publications

Those who care about the future of the church have a vested interest in both the quantity and the quality of candidates preparing for ministry in this generation and into the next. And it is easy to see those pastors as the product of a series of independent and individualized decisions. A college student, for example, meets with her pastor to discuss her future. Or an engineer sits at the kitchen table with his wife asking if they have the money for him to quit his job and head off to seminary. The future of ministry does indeed depend on …

'Land Of Kami, Land Of The Dead': Paligenesis And The Aesthetics Of Religious Revisionism In Kobayashi Yoshinori's 'On Yasukuni', James Mark Shields

Faculty Contributions to Books

In 2005, Japanese manga artist and conservative provocateur Kobayashi Yoshinori published a graphic work entitled Shin gōmanizumu sengen special: Yasukuniron (Neo-Gōmanism Manifesto Special: On Yasukuni), which tackles the much-debated ‘problem’ of Yasukuni Shrine, the militaristic religious complex that has become a lightning-rod for debates regarding Japanese historical memory – especially with regard to the military expansionism in East Asia that led to the Asia-Pacific War (1931–45). Frequently overlooked in discussions of Yasukuni, however, are a number of complex issues related to its religious doctrines – in particular, the interpretation of Shinto presented at Yasukuni and the dominant ideology of Japan’s …

Bulletin Ninth District Ny September 2012

Bulletin of the Ninth District Dental Association

The Bulletin of the Ninth District Dental Association is published four times annually in the months of March, May, September and November. It is distributed to all Association members from the counties of Dutchess, Orange, Putnam, Rockland and Westchester in the state of New York.

The Bulletin keeps our members up-to-date on NDDA activities as well as on a variety of topics important to the profession.