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Articles 121 - 150 of 572287
Full-Text Articles in Arts and Humanities
Material Impasse: Decentering Intentionality Through Uncertainty In Textile Craft, Ruxandra Lupu
Material Impasse: Decentering Intentionality Through Uncertainty In Textile Craft, Ruxandra Lupu
Textile Intersections Conference Series
Recent developments in textiles — including hybrid practices and new material innovations — point to the emergence of new ways of doing, sensing and reflecting through textiles. However, the tools used to investigate these remain anchored in conventions, failing to align with new ways of working reflected by theoretical movements like new materialism. This paper challenges existing methodologies for investigating textile making through the concept of uncertainty. It asks how we can engage more deeply with textiles beyond pre-established frameworks by pushing the affordances of methodological thinking. Drawing on a two-day ethnographic study with textile designer Melissanthi Spei, the paper …
Towards Textile Templating In Mycofabrication: Knitted Structures As Substrate And Scaffold, Romy Kaiser, Elise Elsacker, Martyn Robertson, Ben Bridgens, Jane Scott
Towards Textile Templating In Mycofabrication: Knitted Structures As Substrate And Scaffold, Romy Kaiser, Elise Elsacker, Martyn Robertson, Ben Bridgens, Jane Scott
Textile Intersections Conference Series
This study investigates the potential of knitted textiles as both substrate and three-dimensional scaffold for mycofabrication, contributing to the development of textile templating approaches in biofabrication. While textiles are commonly used as reinforcement in mycelium-based composites, their role as active, designable interfaces for growth remains underexplored. Two experimental approaches using Ganoderma lucidum were conducted: seeding-based inoculation and liquid-state fermentation. The first evaluated fibre substrates (namely acrylic, wool, cotton, and linen) on mycelial colonisation. Cellulosic fibres, particularly cotton and linen, supported more integrated and extensive growth, while wool enabled limited surface expansion and acrylic showed minimal colonisation. Overall, low biomass shows …
Hooked: Programmable, Capacitive Sensing Through Crochet As A Medium For Garments With Tactile Interaction, Juliette Harsv, Josie Hughes
Hooked: Programmable, Capacitive Sensing Through Crochet As A Medium For Garments With Tactile Interaction, Juliette Harsv, Josie Hughes
Textile Intersections Conference Series
Soft capacitive sensing in wearable textiles has many promising applications such as health monitoring, rehabilitation, or intelligent sports garments requiring sensitivity and sensory stability. Existing approaches either rely on rigid or semi-rigid components that compromise conformability, or on conductive yarn arrangements whose sensing geometry is fixed by the textile structure and difficult to adapt at design time. Crochet is an additive, stitch-by-stitch construction process which offers a largely unexplored route to programmable sensing surfaces, in which electrode geometry, baseline capacitance, and sensing range can be tuned directly through fabrication. We present a means of programmable capacitive sensing through crochet, enabling …
Imagining Open-Source Ecosystems For Experimental Weaving: A View From The [Anon. Software] Project, Laura Devendorf, Deanna Gelosi, Etta Sandry
Imagining Open-Source Ecosystems For Experimental Weaving: A View From The [Anon. Software] Project, Laura Devendorf, Deanna Gelosi, Etta Sandry
Textile Intersections Conference Series
This paper describes and reflects on a series of activities, performed from 2024-present, that looked to grow an open-source ecosystem centered around [Anon. Software], a tool for what we began to call experimental weaving. We describe how we came to see experimental weaving as a term that can capture approaches and applications for weaving beyond common characterizations that center disciplinary affiliation or professional identity. We sketch the boundaries and sites of experimental weaving as it relates to our project and offer insights on common needs and challenges our project presented for these groups. We conclude by envisioning broader ecosystems for …
Colour Without Extraction: Towards Ethical Pigments, Tonya Meyrick, Jacinta Kay
Colour Without Extraction: Towards Ethical Pigments, Tonya Meyrick, Jacinta Kay
Textile Intersections Conference Series
This paper investigates how recycled textile waste, reconstituted as particulate pigment, reshapes understandings of material intelligence in textile design, proposing a specifically chromatic account. Through iterative dyeing trials on cellulose substrates conducted within the Perpetual Pigments research initiative, the study examines what occurs when colour is treated as an active participant rather than a controllable output. Drawing on new materialist theory and circular economy frameworks, the paper argues that waste-derived pigments introduce relational dynamics that challenge industrial assumptions of chromatic stability and control. Despite growing interest in bio-colour, recycled pigment systems remain underexamined within design research. This paper responds to …
Beyond Softness: Examining How Vocabulary Marginalises The Material Narrative Of Native British Wool, Zoë Fletcher, Nicci James
Beyond Softness: Examining How Vocabulary Marginalises The Material Narrative Of Native British Wool, Zoë Fletcher, Nicci James
Textile Intersections Conference Series
Softness has become the dominant metric through which wool is evaluated in knitwear design. This paper argues that such language privileges fibres associated with Merino and marginalises native British and regional wools with distinct breed-specific qualities. Drawing on practice-based research, material experiments with native British wool yarns, and literature on wool fibre and supply chains, we examine how existing terminology fails to support design engagement with these materials. In response, we propose a five-part framework, Place, People, Process, Properties and Practice, to support a more nuanced wool literacy. Developing richer vocabulary for native British wool is not simply a matter …
Developing An Industrial Microbial Colour System Through Textile Printing, Ruth Lloyd, Alice Taylor, James Ajioka, Carole Collet
Developing An Industrial Microbial Colour System Through Textile Printing, Ruth Lloyd, Alice Taylor, James Ajioka, Carole Collet
Textile Intersections Conference Series
Emerging microbial colourants offer potential for more sustainable textile coloration, yet their integration into design and industrial production remains limited by the absence of systems that support their use. While existing biotechnology research has focused on colourant production and environmental performance, less attention has been given to how these materials can be applied within textile workflows. This paper demonstrates how microbial colour can be integrated into textile design through the development of reproducible protocols and a structured colour system. Drawing on practice-led doctoral research conducted in collaboration with the biotechnology company Colorifix, textile printing is used as a method to …
Designing Garments As Processes: Material Transformation, Temporality, And Care In Contemporary Fashion Practice, Zuzana Šebeková
Designing Garments As Processes: Material Transformation, Temporality, And Care In Contemporary Fashion Practice, Zuzana Šebeková
Textile Intersections Conference Series
Recent discussions on sustainability in fashion have highlighted the limitations of approaches centred on material choices, technological innovation, recycling, and circular systems, which often fail to address the underlying issues of overproduction and overconsumption. In response, this paper proposes a shift from product-centred sustainability toward process-oriented approaches that engage with the temporal life of garments. The paper analyses a bachelor-level fashion design project as a case study of designing garments as processes. The project explores garment development through bio-based coatings, compost-induced degradation, cracking, repair, and material renewal. These processes introduce transformation, instability, and variability as intrinsic design conditions rather than …
Mechanically Recycling Metallicized Fabrics, Maya Herron, Magdalena Kohler, Tommaso Nieri, Daniele Spinelli, Ilaria Canesi
Mechanically Recycling Metallicized Fabrics, Maya Herron, Magdalena Kohler, Tommaso Nieri, Daniele Spinelli, Ilaria Canesi
Textile Intersections Conference Series
Electronic textiles (e-textiles) are a problematic technology when designing for sustainability as they combine two of the most polluting industries - textile and electronics. While ‘design for disassembly’ is frequently proposed as a sustainability strategy for the end-of-life of e-textile devices, what happens after components are separated and whether they can still function in new contexts has not been sufficiently addressed. Metallicized fabrics are commonly used in the e-textiles space when crafting/designing to provide conductivity for an array of applications, thus this study is focused on the post-disassembly potential and limitations of these materials. We apply recycling techniques from conventional …
Looming Between Shaft Looms And A Tc2 Jacquard Loom - A Serendipitous Expedition With Live Weaving, Pei Lin, Alex Mclean, Helen Milne, Femke Vorselen, Kristina Andersen
Looming Between Shaft Looms And A Tc2 Jacquard Loom - A Serendipitous Expedition With Live Weaving, Pei Lin, Alex Mclean, Helen Milne, Femke Vorselen, Kristina Andersen
Textile Intersections Conference Series
This paper describes an artistic exploration of the potential for more lively engagements with a TC2 digital Jacquard loom. We listened to the loom to enable control of every warp thread in real time, allowing live manipulation of the patterns. This exposed us to the cognitive challenge of designing live for 2 to the power of 1320 warp possibilities. To address this, we made a customised TC2 control software interface, LOOMIMG, that implements traditional shaft loom logic as a digital, interactive weaving draft. Our tests with two experienced weavers suggest that this facilitates not only a creative space that is …
Evolutive Textiles Design With The Variability Of Natural Dyes: A Color-Driven Approach Of Textile Design, Lou Ramage, Camille Fuzier
Evolutive Textiles Design With The Variability Of Natural Dyes: A Color-Driven Approach Of Textile Design, Lou Ramage, Camille Fuzier
Textile Intersections Conference Series
In a context of over-standardized color production and stability-based evaluations of dyes, this article proposes a way to embrace and implement natural dyes’ temporal variabilities in evolutive textiles design and discusses how taking these into account modifies textile design practices. As a designer and a material scientist working with a dyer craftswoman, we present an adaptation of color characterisation methods and a chromo-chronological database, and how these tools result in a proof of concept of a tufted piece with pattern apparition, paving the way for a color-driven textile design.
Textile Commons Of Care: Intergenerational Mending And Temporalities, Sam Bennett, Gabriele Ferri
Textile Commons Of Care: Intergenerational Mending And Temporalities, Sam Bennett, Gabriele Ferri
Textile Intersections Conference Series
Visible mending is increasingly recognized as both a functional and creative craft practice and a form of material intelligence, where knowledge emerges through tactile engagement. This paper adds an additional layer that visible mending in community, where the act of mending is also visible, functions as a materially grounded practice of ongoing care through which knowledge and learning are distributed across people, textiles, and time. Drawing on a multi‑sited qualitative study, including a nine‑month global mending cohort, a visible mending workshop, and interviews with experienced menders, the paper examines how care aesthetics helps clarify the social and epistemic dimensions of …
Shaped Circular Knitting For Zero Waste Design: A Material-Driven Approach To Knitted Textile-Forms, Sem Janssen, Holly Mcquillan
Shaped Circular Knitting For Zero Waste Design: A Material-Driven Approach To Knitted Textile-Forms, Sem Janssen, Holly Mcquillan
Textile Intersections Conference Series
While 3D knitting is proposed as part of a solution to the fashion industry's waste problem, circular knitting is primarily used in wasteful cut-and-sew manufacturing processes and is rarely explored for its shaping potential. Using material-driven design, this research investigates the dimensional and material properties of knit stitch patterns within defined rectangular artworks, enabling the shaping of circular knitted textiles for zero-waste design. To exemplify this approach, we developed a design method that addresses several aspects of the shaping process, highlighting the possibilities for zero-waste shaping and exploring potential applications. Finally, we discuss the implications, limitations, and opportunities of shape-change …
Threading The Line: Switchboard Labor, Bodily Knowledge, And The Textile Traditions Of Telephone Operating, Yuhanxiao Ma
Threading The Line: Switchboard Labor, Bodily Knowledge, And The Textile Traditions Of Telephone Operating, Yuhanxiao Ma
Textile Intersections Conference Series
This paper positions telephone switchboard operating as a textile tradition in the full disciplinary sense: a practice organized around embodied skill, the transmission of bodily knowledge through community, and the production of relational connection as material output. Drawing on feminist labor history, textile theory, and Daniela Rosner’s framework of critical fabulation, it argues that the systematic erasure of switchboard labor by electromechanical automation constitutes a form of textile loss: one structurally identical to the suppression of feminized craft work in computing history. The paper then presents the design logic of This Is Vera, Hold Please, a performance installation in development …
Opportunities And Challenges Of Toolpath-Based 3d Printed Textiles: Insights From Digital Design And Craft Course, Yoav Sterman
Opportunities And Challenges Of Toolpath-Based 3d Printed Textiles: Insights From Digital Design And Craft Course, Yoav Sterman
Textile Intersections Conference Series
Advances in additive manufacturing (AM), particularly Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), have introduced new possibilities for textile and fashion design through toolpath-based fabrication. This paper examines the opportunities and challenges of 3D-printed textiles, drawing on insights from five iterations of a Digital Design and Craft course, in which 101 students designed and produced wearable artifacts using computational workflows. This paper examines students’ projects, analyzes application types, discusses assembly techniques and post-processing strategies, and highlights how traditional textile manufacturing inspires the toolpath structures. The paper further discusses the opportunities of 3D printed toolpath-based textiles, such as supporting sustainability and enhancing personalization through …
Textile Intersections 2026: Material Intelligence Exhibition Catalogue, Afroditi Psarra, Liza Stark, Sasha De Koninck, Larissa Kunstel-Tabet, Katharina Sand
Textile Intersections 2026: Material Intelligence Exhibition Catalogue, Afroditi Psarra, Liza Stark, Sasha De Koninck, Larissa Kunstel-Tabet, Katharina Sand
Textile Intersections Conference Series
Catalogue of the Textile Intersections 2026 exhibition, Material Intelligence, presenting textile design research that explores intelligence through material behaviour, textile structures, more-than-human agency, material cycles, computation, craft and material commons.
Understanding The Political Profile Of Long Island’S Central American Electorate: A Case Study Of Long Island’S Majority-Latino Towns, Brett J. Patrick
Understanding The Political Profile Of Long Island’S Central American Electorate: A Case Study Of Long Island’S Majority-Latino Towns, Brett J. Patrick
Binghamton University Undergraduate Journal
As Salvadoran and Guatemalan migrants settled en masse across Long Island from the 1980s to the 2010s, seven Latino-majority towns emerged, each with distinct voting patterns that diverge from broader national Latino trends and from one another. This study examines how and why these Central American communities vote by integrating precinct-level election returns with the U.S. Census’ American Community Survey data. Using variables such as income, population density, education, citizenship status, and language, it identifies correlations between demographic conditions and partisan vote share. This approach reveals how socioeconomic factors shape political behavior within Salvadoran-American and Guatemalan-American enclaves in Nassau and …
Finding The Numinous: An Ecocritical Look At “Dune” And “The Lord Of The Rings” (2025), By Willow Wilson Dipasquale, Douglas Charles Kane
Finding The Numinous: An Ecocritical Look At “Dune” And “The Lord Of The Rings” (2025), By Willow Wilson Dipasquale, Douglas Charles Kane
Journal of Tolkien Research
Book review, by Douglas Charles Kane, of Finding the Numinous: An Ecocritical Look at “Dune” and “The Lord of the Rings” (2025), by Willow Wilson DiPasquale
Newsclipping, Does Your Chin Line Suggest Age?
Newsclipping, Does Your Chin Line Suggest Age?
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News clipping: Advertisement for Dorothy Gray Preparations available at Gayfer's Toilet Goods Department. Undated.
Newsclipping, ...Could Erase Our Beggar Status
Newsclipping, ...Could Erase Our Beggar Status
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News clipping: Partial article regarding politics, presidents, and color prejudice. Undated.
Newsclipping, Ministers Endorse Mahalia
Newsclipping, Ministers Endorse Mahalia
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News Clipping: Clipping with photograph of Miss Mahalia Jackson shaking hands with Reverend V. S. Gregg, at the Baptist Ministers Conference of Philadelphia and Vicinity. Also in photograph, left to right: Reverend Walter H. Anderson, Miss Mahalia Jackson, Reverend W. L. Bentley, Reverend V.S. Gregg, and Miss Mildred Falla. Undated.
Newsclipping, A Mother Who Adds Glory To Mothers Of All
Newsclipping, A Mother Who Adds Glory To Mothers Of All
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News clipping: Partial article regarding Mrs. A. E. Barrow being awarded "Mother of the Year" by the Oklahoma American Mothers' Committee, Golden Rule Foundation. Undated.
Newsclipping, Memory Of Former Clerk Is Honored By Supreme Court
Newsclipping, Memory Of Former Clerk Is Honored By Supreme Court
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News clipping: Partial article regarding the memorial for the former clerk of the Supreme Court of Florida, G.T. Whitfield. Florida Times-Union. Undated.
Newsclipping, Little Sisters Feast Day Held At Home For Aged
Newsclipping, Little Sisters Feast Day Held At Home For Aged
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News clipping: Article regarding the 85th annual open house of the Little Sisters of the Poor Home for the Aged held on the feast day of St. Joseph, patron saint of the Home. Includes an image of 79-year-old Lydia Nicholas sitting in a wheelchair, playing the piano at the Little Sisters of the Poor open house, Sister Maethilda listening. Undated.
Newsclipping, Voting Set Today On School Issues
Newsclipping, Voting Set Today On School Issues
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News clipping: Article regarding the polling place open for voting on a referendum that could revise the school system. Undated.
Newsclipping, Fascist Wisdom
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News clipping: Partial article regarding fascism. Undated.
Newsclipping, Article Fragment
Newsclipping, Article Fragment
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News clipping: Article fragment that mentions Dr. George Washington Carver of Tuskegee, Dr. Robert R Moton, president of Tuskegee, Dr. J. R. E. Lee, head of the Florida A. & M. College at Tallahassee, Booker T. Washington, founder of Tuskegee. The article also mentions Bethune-Cookman at Daytona Beach. Undated.
Newsclipping, Why Don't More Negroes Become Lawyers?
Newsclipping, Why Don't More Negroes Become Lawyers?
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News Clipping: Partial article references data given to the reporter by the acting dean of Howard University School of Law, William W. Taylor. Undated.
Newsclipping, Rules Outlined "Woman Of The Year"
Newsclipping, Rules Outlined "Woman Of The Year"
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News clipping: Article regarding guidelines for Jacksonville citizens preparing to nominate people for the Woman of the Year award based on accomplishments from 1948. Award sponsored by Cohen Brothers. Undated.
Newsclipping, Duval Grand Jury Called Next Friday
Newsclipping, Duval Grand Jury Called Next Friday
Eartha M. M. White Textual Material
News clipping: Article regarding the Duval County Grand Jury reconvening, looking into "alleged school irregularities". The probe looked into rumors that some teachers were "required" to make payments to secure job placements. Undated.