Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons^™

Contemporary Oneida Beadwork: Revitalized Identity Through An “Adopted” Art Form, Beverly Gordon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A relatively new type of raised beadwork has “become a way of life” for the Oneida people of Wisconsin. “Beading extravaganzas” are important social events, and beadwork adorns ritual objects such as graduation stoles. This examination of contemporary Oneida beadwork functions as an intriguing update to Ruth Phillip’s 1990 TSA paper, “Moccasins into Slippers: Traditions and Transformations in Nineteenth-Century Woodlands Indian Textiles.” Phillips documented how indigenous forms “morphed” into objects made for sale to non-natives at sites such as Niagara Falls. While even tourist art was part of native cultural identity, its greatest significance was as a source of income …

The Women Of The Bauhaus Weaving Workshop: Anni Albers' And Gunta Stölzl's Impact, Sophia Silane

Pitzer Senior Theses

This thesis discusses two female weavers, Gunta Stölzl and Anni Albers, and their critical works from 1920-1935 that shaped Bauhaus weaving and the artistic significance of the medium. Over the course of three chapters, the thesis discusses Stölzl's shift from pictorial to material interests, Albers' themes of mass production and industry, and the women's post Bauhaus years which involved Stölzl blending work and art and Albers expanding the capabilities and fine art presence of textile.

Blanket Statements, Issue 146, Seminar 2020

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 146, Seminar 2020

Addie Best Studio, Addie Best

UNBOUND 2020 Archive (Virtual)

I am currently a student at RISD but I also run a small business selling prints and mending clothes. My work is primarily linocuts and letterpress with strong themes of sustainability and tradition with a healthy dose of whimsy. - Addie Best www.addiebeststudio.com, addiebeststudio instagram

Sarah Bryant-Cole, Sarah Bryant-Cole

UNBOUND 2020 Archive (Virtual)

I am a textile designer who is also interested in illustration and storytelling. Magic, nature, family, and queerness influence my work often and each thing I make I try to infuse with an intention. www.sarahbryantcole.com

Plot, Meredith F. Conger

College of Graduate Studies: Theses & Dissertations

This body of work, Plot, examines the perceptual relationship of the viewer to the landscape that surrounds them through the use of informational paintings that reference, aerial perspective, mark-making and texture. The primary objective of these works is to explore an alternative form of creating contemporary landscape paintings in response to a familiarity with his/her surrounding landscape. As an artist living in middle Georgia, I have always wanted to integrate the subject of landscape into my studio practice.

[P]Lace: Reinterpreting The Feminine, Nicole D. James

College of Graduate Studies: Theses & Dissertations

This body of work, [P]lace: Reinterpreting the Feminine, explores the ideas of gender and the the common associations materials, colors, values, etc. have in relationship to the accepted feminine and masculine. Armed with knowledge of these assumptions, my lace sculpture and installation work aims to draw attention to the complications surrounding what we understand as feminine through material transformation. By changing select qualities of the material, I create analogies for assumptions commonly made about women. My ultimate goal is not only material manipulation, but to question some of the fundamental elements we associate with gender itself. I …

Patterns Of Identity, Tameka S. Phillips

College of Graduate Studies: Theses & Dissertations

People interpret and categorize visual cues not only to create a concept of an identity. We assume who a person is, and what their personality is like, based on these visual cues that are in turn plagued with established norms and biases that can connect or divide. Cultural norms, such as gender, sexuality, race, or political standing can be further expressed visually through textile patterns, motifs, and color. Even so, the many cultural signifiers serve only as clues to a person’s identity that encompasses many different cultural aspects, despite common practice to relate to only one. Through my textile statues, …

Challenges In Design And Fabrication Of Flexible/Stretchable Carbon- And Textile-Based Wearable Sensors For Health Monitoring: A Critical Review, Jae Seng Heo, Md Faruk Hossain, Insoo Kim

Bioelectrics Publications

To demonstrate the wearable flexible/stretchable health-monitoring sensor, it is necessary to develop advanced functional materials and fabrication technologies. Among the various developed materials and fabrication processes for wearable sensors, carbon-based materials and textile-based configurations are considered as promising approaches due to their outstanding characteristics such as high conductivity, lightweight, high mechanical properties, wearability, and biocompatibility. Despite these advantages, in order to realize practical wearable applications, electrical and mechanical performances such as sensitivity, stability, and long-term use are still not satisfied. Accordingly, in this review, we describe recent advances in process technologies to fabricate advanced carbon-based materials and textile-based sensors, followed …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 41 (2020), Joanna E. Evans, Deanna Allred, Linda Baumgarten, Hallie Bond, Mary Bywater Cross, Gretchen Guidess, Kimberley Smith Ivey, Charlene Bongiorno Stephens, William G. Stephens, Rosa Thornley

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Joanna E. Evans

Unraveling the Mysteries of a White Quilt One Quilt, Two Cultures, and ­ree Approaches by Linda Baumgarten, Gretchen Guidess, and Kimberly Ivey

“Nothing Thou Love Be Lost or Die”: An 1846 Friendship Quilt Made at the Vermont Asylum for the Insane by Charlene Bongiorno Stephens and William G. Stephens

Seeking the Evidence: ­The Solar System Quilt and Artist Ellen Harding Baker by Mary Bywater Cross

“For Top-Cover Warmth” North Country Comforters, 1800–1970s by Hallie E. Bond

“Reach Out and Touch Someone”: Examining How Instagram Has Become a Conduit for Quiltmaking Communities by Deanna Allred and …

Enigmatic Mediterranean Silk Quilts, Kathryn Berenson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Nearly two dozen centuries-old, corded quilts and fragments made of jewel-toned silks rest in North American and European collections. Expertly designed, they are variously stitched with imagery of ships sailing over waters that teem with fish, musicians who play amidst animals that gambol and prance to their music, armed hunters and their dogs in pursuit of boar, wolf, and even lion, and arcaded galleries where half-dressed women pose beneath the arches. Double-headed eagles, a symbol of both political and religious significance, and roundels featuring profiles of men wearing turbans or crowns, are also common motifs.

Each quilt is completely reversible; …

People, Landscape And Wool Weaving In Venezuelan Andes, María Dávila, Eduardo Portillo

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Wool weaving has been practiced in the Venezuelan Andean region for centuries, specifically at the Paramo ecosystem. This activity was introduced by the Spaniards and shaped by the relation of its inhabitants with the environment, warm clothing needs, climate, and the isolation of the place. Blankets and ruanas have been made traditionally on elementary handlooms by weavers who still use handspun wool, cotton, and natural dyes. Beauty in simplicity has built a singular aesthetic to be worn within the mist of the mountains. This paper intends to share a personal encounter of the authors with the community of weavers, spinners, …

Coming Together Again: A Case Study On Persian Silk Woven Textiles, Tayana Fincher

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Spanning well beyond the parameters of the Middle East, Islam has always had a global reach. It has adapted to numerous cultures and ancient histories encountered over the past 1,400 years. But, due to the prevailing Eurocentric purview in American museums, little has been recorded about the artists and makers of Islamic textiles. Many of these objects were produced by collective, royal workshops with unnamed contributors, or were intended for devotional use inside domestic spaces. With colonial ventures, too, many passed through the hands of collectors and dealers solely interested in the object’s material or aesthetic value.

A group of …

Transformative Power Of Stitchery: Sashiko From Cold Regions Of Japan And Embroidery Work Of The Nui Project, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper seeks to reveal the transformative power of stitchery by examining textile practices in Japan and articulating how a threaded needle can be viewed as the co-agent of stitchers, infusing their materials with properties in a “processual” and relational manner that reflects the currents of their lifeworld.^[1] I will contrast and compare two practices, one ancient and one modern, one responding to life’s necessities and the other simply to the act of stitching. In the ancient world, stitchery was essential for human survival, and later in rural Japan, sashiko stitchery was a medium that connected textiles with daily …

Where Can Objects Take You? The Case Of The World War Ii Japanese Airman's Suit, Madelyn Shaw, Trish Fitzsimons

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

“Dad always said that ‘It’s made out of Australian wool,’ and I thought that was just a joke because you couldn’t see how the Japanese would get hold of Australian wool during the war…. But it is a fine material…. They weren’t scrapping for something to wear.” —Wally Lanagan

In December 1942, the Yokosuka Military Department manufactured, surely among hundreds of others, a flying suit, which may or may not have ever been worn by a Japanese pilot. It did, however, end up on display at the Pioneer Park Museum in Dalby, a small town in rural Queensland, Australia. It …

Textile Memory In Colchane: Weavers Revitalizing The Aymara Tradition, Soledad Hoces De La Guardia

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In Aymara culture, textiles have played a fundamental role as highly valued community possessions and significant media for ritual and tradition. In Chilean territory, the Colchane community has been fortunate, because they have here retained, with fidelity and vigor, their culture and traditional textile practices. However, the average age of active weavers is rising and those younger do not have the technical expertise of their elders, which has led to the loss of a significant part of traditional technical knowledge.

To not forget the “handwork” became an urgent concern for artisans in the community, members of the Aymar Warmi association, …

Viscacha: Luxury, Fate And Identification In Precolumbian Textiles, Elena Phipps, Caroline Solazzo

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Since the sixteenth century, references by Spanish chroniclers to the use of chinchilla hair (Andean rodents of several species including viscacha) by Andean weavers indicate that the fine hair of these animals had been incorporated into textiles. Their fine soft hair, often mottled in color, has distinctive characteristics which vary and, as a result, make them difficult to identify. Some archaeological finds, primarily in Chile have reported viscacha skins and fur bags, but few if any reports have identified the presence of textiles or spun yarns that incorporate this special fiber. The depiction of the animal takes on special meaning …

Unseen, Unheard, Unnamed: The Matchless And Unsung Heroes Of The Textile Art And Craft Of Rajasthan, Simrita Singh, Anu H. Gupta

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Rajasthan is known for its exquisite handicrafts, especially the textiles. In spite of having the most vibrant and glorious traditions, this sector has been grossly unorganized due to the poor socio-economic status of the artisans. The educational background of the artisans also is not satisfactory; hence, they lack public relations skills. They are totally dependent on big traders and middlemen for marketing purposes. Moreover, in this era of labels and designers, the artisans, however skilled or endowed they may be, have to work under some renowned brand or name to have a regular livelihood. However, not all artisans are lucky …

Artistic Philanthropy And Women’S Emancipation In Early Twentieth-Century Italy, In The Life And The Work Of Romeyne Robert And Carolina Amari, Ruggero Ranieri

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Romeyne Robert, married as Ranieri di Sorbello, started an embroidery school in 1904 in Umbria, at the family’s country estate of Pischiello. Her goal was to teach young peasant women to emancipate themselves by learning the craft of embroidery. She was inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement in America and by contemporary programs developed in settlement houses along the East Coast. Their aim was to help the emancipation of immigrant women from Italy by fostering the recovery of artisan skills. At the Sorbello Embroidery School, Romeyne rediscovered the Renaissance technique originally called the punto Umbro, later renamed punto Sorbello. …

Tribal Textiles And The Mingei Circle In Japan: Muneyoshi Yanagi’S View On Carpet, Yumiko Kamada

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Tribal carpets and textiles have been enthusiastically collected by connoisseurs and ordinary people in Europe and the United States for years. Along with a number of publications on tribal carpets and textiles, several recent exhibitions such as Portable Storage: Tribal Weavings from the Collection of William and Inger Ginsberg at the Metropolitan Museum of Art indicate a keen academic interest in the West. In contrast, tribal carpets and textiles did not gain the attention of the majority of Japanese. However, some Japanese, especially Yanagi Muneyoshi and his friends in the Mingei circle, notably Hamada Shoji, Serizawa Keisuke, and Tonomura Kichinosuke, …