Art and Design Commons^™

Handwork As A Conceptual Strategy, Jane Kidd

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper will discuss my commitment to the material identity of woven tapestry as an artistic practice and my interest in the handmade as a conceptual strategy and counterpoint to the immediacy and temporal nature of contemporary culture.

Much of the work in the milieu of contemporary fibre is moving away from the handmade object to embrace installation, intervention, digital technology and hybrid approaches to material and process. The discreet material identity of traditional textile processes like woven tapestry seem out of step, bringing into question the value of skill, disciplinarity and the handmade object.

Throughout my practice, skill and …

Low Tech Transmission: European Tapestry To High Tech America, Christine Laffer

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

European tapestry techniques reached the U.S. in several waves of cultural transmission, starting in the late 1800s when the first tapestry studios were established on the east coast. The differences between the two continents and their focus on different types of technical knowledge appeared almost instantly. In Europe, institutions guarded the logic and purity of their techniques through systems ranging from educational programs to state-run tapestry studios over several hundred years. In the U.S., tapestry existed primarily as a commercial enterprise serving a small sector of the population over a few decades. Further, the lack of an educational component prevented …

Kitab Al-Hadaya Wa Al-Tuhaf: A Unique Window On Islamic Textiles, Wendy Landry

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During the first millennium, a rare kind of literature evolved in the Islamic world that provides a fascinating window on the interest and importance of material objects. A unique example of this literature, entitled Kitab al-Hadaya wa al-Tuhaf [Book of Gifts and Rarities] was translated into English, annotated and published in 1996 by Kuwaiti curator and scholar Ghada al Hijjawi al-Qaddumi. It is an anthology of anecdotes referring to the period between the sixth century and the twelfth century, probably compiled in the late twelfth century by an official in the Islamic Egyptian government.

Although the historical veracity of the …

Order And Complexity In My Woven Work, Janice Lessman-Moss

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

My art practice revolves around an interest in abstract systems and digital design in combination with the mechanical, mathematical, and material aspects of weaving. The process of weaving conjures images of the sequential mapping of linear time along the length of the warp, while designing on the computer implies speed and layering as in circular time. These two concepts are integrated in the construction and visual interpretation of my woven work. Using the generative capabilities of the computer, sharply defined and regular patterns of shapes are integrated with more organic and seemingly random systems. Their interplay seeks a balance that …

Red Gold - Raising Cochineal In Oaxaca, Eric Chávez Santiago, Hector Manuel Meneses Lozano

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Oaxaca’s diversity may be appreciated in its geography, people, and food. Therefore, artistic expressions throughout the state are truly rich in their variety. Textiles are one of the major expressions that have transcended through time and among the vast offer of materials, cochineal has been one of Oaxaca’s treasures. Capable of producing many different shades, cochineal has been widely used for dyeing since Pre-Columbian times. After reaching a point of extraordinary production as an exporting good, the cochineal cultivation started to decrease as the use of synthetic dyes started to spread. The Museo Textil de Oaxaca (Textile Museum of Oaxaca …

Colcha Embroidery As Cartography: Mapping Landscapes Of Memory And Passage, Suzanne P. Macaulay

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Stitching is one of the oldest forms or technologies of textile craft – if we regard technology in its elemental sense as artistry, process, invention or method. This presentation explores the notion of embroidered maps as creations of a cartographic visionary imagination. In terms of the Symposium’s theme promoting new links between traditional textile-based concepts and contemporary digital processes, these cartographic embroideries are viewed as compositions of space-time in which landscapes are rendered as illusions of three dimensions (space) with an implied fourth dimension (time). In these pictorial embroideries, time melds with memory in order to transcend the physical division …

Shipibo Textile Practices 1952-2010, Claire Odland, Nancy Feldman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

indigenous Shipibo communities. In Part One, we will describe our work with a 1952 film on the Shipibo by Harry Tschopik, Jr., Associate Curator of Anthropology of the American Museum of Natural History. In 2007, one of the presenters compiled this footage into a DVD, called El Pueblo Shipibo: Men of the Montaña. This silent film is unique; no other historic film of these people and their heritage has been found to exist. Shipibo communities at preliminary screenings in 2008 reacted with delight as they saw images validating their ancestral knowledge. Men of the Montaña provides authentic visual images and …

Metalling With Fibers: A Design Series Exploring The Reuse Of Metal Findings Through The Use Of Technology, Eulanda A. Sanders

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

When analyzing “socially responsible” along the supply-chain of apparel production, there has not been an emphasis on the purchase of findings used in production of clothing and how surplus items are used or discarded. Hawley (2006) describes the mechanical sorting of findings to assist in the post-consumer recycling of apparel to aid in reclaiming fiber from products. Her research raised the following questions: 1) What happens to these findings after they are removed from the garment? 2) Is it possible to use these items in wearable or fiber art projects? 3) Where are additional sources for obtaining or reclaiming surplus …

Woven Images: All Techniques Considered, Tommye Mcclure Scanlin

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

What motivates an artist to create images using textile media? What weaving techniques are suitable for image making? Weavers through the ages have taken colored weft threads in hand and inserted them into the warp, row-by-row, building shape upon shape in the powerful and nuanced, yet structurally simple, technique of weft-faced tapestry. With the invention of the jacquard loom, the kind of complex image making that was previously only common in tapestry weaving became mechanized, and available on a commercial level that involved faster production rates, lower costs and the creation of multiples. In recent years, the innovations in, and …

Agents Of Change: Mexican Muralists And New Deal Artists, Judy Zlotsky, Norman Zlotsky, Blana Salazar

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

Agents of Change: Mexican Muralists and New Deal Artists features works by artists from Mexico and the United States and demonstrates the close ties between them in the 1930s and' 40s. The exhibition is organized into four sections to include Franklin Delano Roosevelt's Works Progress Administration (WPA); the Mexican Muralist Movement; a mural study by WPA artist Lucienne Bloch; and the Taller de Grafica Popular.

Mexican muralism, a government public art initiative, sponsored after the 1910 Mexican Revolution, encouraged social change by depicting the ideals and struggles for independence, while elevating and glorifying the indigenous heritage of Mexico. The Mexican …

Women Artists In The Collection

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

This special exhibition of the permanent collection focuses exclusively on the contributions of American women artists. The fact of women's historical exclusion from the art world is part of the exploration, "Why have there been no great women artists?"-art historian Linda Nochlin famously asked in a 1971 essay. Her findings pointed to the past exclusion of women from working with male nude models, hence apprenticeships, then professions and academies, to which we add commercial gallery exhibitions, art criticism, and art history. Over the centuries this vicious cycle has shaped the current phenomenon: the predominance of male artists in museum collections …

Hooked: Between Personal And Public Space, Patricia Tinajero

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores the proliferation of sculptural forms made exclusively by crocheting. Crochet is explored as a tool and medium that create sculptural forms and installations of grand scale.

My presentation compares and contrasts the connections between personal and private space as they are presented in the artwork of Andrea Zittle “Uniform Project” with the public and collective artwork of artist, Jennifer Marsh, and her “International Fabric Collective” project. The scope and scale in which these artists work present two different methodologies for developing large-scale projects that are based on the use of crochet techniques.

Chinese Blue And White Itajime (Jiaxie): Folk Tradition Of Carved Board Clamp Resist Dyeing In Zenjiang Province, Tomoko Torimaru, Ana Lisa Hedstrom

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This is a report on our field studies taken to identify and observe in China the process of itajime shibori, or carved board clamp resist dyeing known as Jiaxie in Chinese and Kyokechi in Japanese. There is very little known history of this craft as generally not much attention is paid in China to their folk traditions.

In 2003 and 2004, we visited Yishan, Cangnan, Zhejiang Province at a workshop which is now officially designated as Zhongnuo Minjian Gongyi Jiaxie Zuofang, or roughly ‘Chinese People’s Art Craft Jiaxie Studio’. As this designation suggests, we observed some interest by the local …

Locating Textile Arts Pedagogy: Do We Ever Settle?, Mary Lou Trinkwon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Contemporary textile arts include a diverse continuum of practices ranging from DIY strategies rooted in grassroots culture often intentionally and intensely anti-intellectual, relational aesthetics based in social or collective practices and hyper technological electronically reliant practices often conceptual in nature. Contemporary educational practices also have a broad range of approaches and ideologies, which manifest in many forms, from applied situated social studio learning to e-learning platforms and distance learning, dependant upon social media and e-resources.

Given this complex range of diverse approaches and practices, how do we locate ourselves as educational practitioners? How do we settle into our educational spaces …

A A Rice Sacks Secrets: Once Hidden From Ourselves And Others, Flo Oy Wong

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In this paper I will discuss the intersections of art and history with a focus on family and community and will examine immigration, resettlement, loyalty, and mental health concepts in a traditional Chinese American perception.

During my 30 year career as an artist, I have used oral history as a foundation to explore the impact of the 1882 Chinese Exclusion Law on my family and community, including later immigrants; I have transformed these little-known chronicles into art that speaks to the universality of adjustment to space and place. The iconic materials that I have used to convey these narratives are …

Figured Velvets From Simple Looms: Velvet Pick-Up And Related Techniques For Handweavers, Wendy Landry

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Much historical velvet was designed to be figural, often in elaborate curvilinear floral motifs, and multiple colours. These complex patterns could be efficiently designed for and executed on the available drawlooms and their successors, the jacquard looms. Faced with such complexity, and the unavailability of jacquard looms and drawlooms, few handweavers have attempted to add velvet technique to their repertoire. However, the basic principles and weave structures of velvet are relatively simple and can be executed on simpler handlooms. Pick-up techniques and simple loom modifications make figured velvet accessible for weavers without access to complex jacquard velvet looms, allowing them …

Jacquard: A Loom Of Opportunity Workshop, Julie Holyoke

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Workshop 2: Jacquard: A Loom of Opportunity
Teacher: Julie Holyoke
Place: New Media Center Computer Lab, Architecture Hall,
University of Nebraska, City Campus
Workshop fee: $125, pre-registration required
One Teitelbaum Family Support award
Maximum students: 15

Workshop Description: This Jacquard design workshop for educators, artists, and designers will be a fun and stimulating day during which many weave and design ideas for figured textiles will be presented and the medium’s potential explored. Using Jacquard design software, participants will follow a series of exercises on how to create, modify, and evaluate weave structures and graphics for visual and textural effect. Samples …

View From The Shoulders Of Thar Masters: New Space For Ply-Split Braiding, David W. Fraser

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Men of the Thar Desert in the Indian states of Rajasthan and Gujarat and the Pakistan state of Sindh have been the traditional masters of ply-split braiding. They have focused on trappings for camels, including elaborately decorated girths, bridles and other accoutrement, made of goat hair or cotton. Particularly since the 1998 publication of Collingwood’s The Techniques of Ply-split Braiding, fiber artists have explored other possibilities for using ply-split braiding to create vessels and other three-dimensional structures. Most of those innovations have been done in what Collingwood calls single-course oblique twining (SCOT), which allows great freedom in color patterning because …

Surrounded: Large And Small Work By Lillian Elliott Awardees, Concurrent Exhibitions, Tugboat Gallery

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Tugboat Gallery
www.tugboatgallery.com
(402) 477-6200

Surrounded: Large and Small Work by Lillian Elliott Awardees
October 1 - 29, 2010

Featuring Lillian Elliott Awardees Frances Dorsey (1995), Marcie Miller Gross (1996) and Soonran Youn, (2002)
Lillian Elliott tapestry, “Color it Twill” on exhibit, available for bidding in silent auction.

New Material World: Rethreading Technology, Concurrent Exhibitions, The Sheldon Museum Of Art

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Sheldon Museum of Art
www.sheldonartgallery.org
12th & R St.
(402) 472-2461

New Material World: Rethreading Technology
October 8, 2010 - January 2, 2011

From manipulating old techniques in new ways to coupling new tools and digital
processes with traditional methods, this work explores what it means to be an
artist integrating such approaches in the 21st century.

Participating artists: Lyn Carter, Kyoung Ae Cho (1997 Lillian Elliott Awardee),
Sonya Clark (2000 LEA), Ishida Tomoko Hashimoto (1998 LEA), Kyoko Kumai,
Cat Mazza, Janice Lessman-Moss, Geraldine Ondrizek, Jessica Smith, and
Grethe Sørensen.