Fashion Design Commons^™

Urban Looms, Recoloring City, Ella Son

Masters Theses

The metropolis has been a dominant and defining aspect of my life. Acutely aware of visual illusions created by the choreographed and unchoreographed movements of people in the streets and the distortions of light and shadow on the glass facades of skyscrapers, I reinterpret the patterns and colors that are in constant interplay into a collection of architectural textiles.

With an emphasis on optical layering, these immersive installations recreate the quality of being spellbound in the city. Scaled to emphasize verticality and activated through transparent overlays and dense color interplay, a rich visual field is activated. In their application, the …

Costumed Culture: Influences And Preservation On Broadway, Amanda L. Padilla

Publications and Research

This research talks about into the preservation and evolution of costuming in Broadway productions, and exploring how historical and contemporary designs intersect in certain productions. Through articles and an interview with an IATSE worker, it examines the socio-cultural influences shaping costume choices and the technical advancements driving innovation. By tracing the trajectory of Broadway costuming, from its roots to modern adaptations, this study talks about theatrical storytelling and its broader impact on fashion and cultural trends. It shows the significance of costuming as an art form reflective of constantly changing societal norms and artistic expressions on the Broadway stage.

The J In Danger, Zachary Delamater

Theses and Dissertations

“The J in Danger” merges autobiographic and formal concerns in sculpture and installation to describe the existential hazards contemporary life poses to Queer and Disabled individuals. The paper utilizes silent letters as thematic device to connect notions of precarity to a broader sense of contemporary “doomerism.”

Default, Noah Pica

Theses and Dissertations

“Default” explores the formation and maintenance of normalcy, uniformity, and banality in American life. Noah Pica starts with the visual language of lined paper, prefabricated objects, model-making kits, and blueprints. He reforms these structures through a sculpture practice, investigating how their design inconspicuously implements social norms.

The Catholic Runway: Examining The Representation Of The Chasuble In Modern Couture, Brendan Baehr

Honors Thesis

In Catholic tradition, the chasuble is a central garment worn by clergy members originating as far back as the 6^th century, albeit under a different name. The chasuble is the outermost form of vestment for members of the clergy and takes the general shape of a cone, leaving room for the head to be placed in a circular opening. The changes in form of the chasuble will be something I exam within this paper, as although often relatively minor, still reflect changing attitudes towards fashion sensibilities within the Catholic church over time. I will be primarily examining these changes …

Development Of Woven Blouses For Women Living Flat, Ailish Leahy

Apparel Merchandising and Product Development Undergraduate Honors Theses

Breast cancer is one of the most common cancers in women, with millions of survivors in the United States today. A mastectomy surgery is the most recommended treatment for breast cancer. A mastectomy removes the entire infected breast area, and it can be necessary for women to receive a double mastectomy to have both breasts removed. After receiving a mastectomy, women are faced with a decision: to receive breast reconstruction or to opt out of it.

Recently there has been an increase in the number of women who are opting out of breast reconstruction, also known as choosing to ‘live …

The Phygital Design Process: Using Emerging Technologies To Create A Phygital Fashion Brand Rooted In Nostalgia, Madeline M. Mcdaniel

Creativity and Change Leadership Graduate Student Master's Projects

This Master's Project is a comprehensive exploration of the intersection of digital fashion design, nostalgia, and sustainable practices. Its primary objective is to create 'project CYBERBAE,' a phygital fashion collection that draws inspiration from early 2000s video game characters, trends, and aesthetics. The project utilizes advanced digital tools like Clo3D to demonstrate a comprehensive digital fashion design process that emphasizes inclusivity and sustainability. It also pioneers the development of a 3D virtual world, providing users with an immersive environment to interact with and experience digital fashion. This virtual space serves as a platform for a community of fashion, technology, and …

Clothing, From Textiles To Pixels: Exploring The Possibilities Of Design With Clo3d Software, Tina Shetabi

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

This project explores the application of Clo3d software as a transformative educational tool in couture fashion design instruction. Despite couture's rich tradition of meticulous craftsmanship and personalized design, its teaching methodologies have yet to fully leverage digital advancements. This project examines the integration of Clo3d into the apparel design program curriculum, specifically focusing on the undergraduate course Digital Apparel Design at the University of Nebraska Lincoln. Through a combination of theoretical knowledge and practical application, this project aims to determine how digital tools like Clo3d can enhance the learning outcomes of fashion design students by providing a more interactive and …

From Field To Fashion: A Journey In Sustainable Design And Regional Understanding, Lily Turner

Individually Designed Interdepartmental Major Honors Project

As the fashion industry became globalized over the past century, it has become a major environment polluter and exposed laborers to hazardous conditions. This honors project considers sustainability in the textile industry at large and at the regional scale of the Upper Midwest. Its scholarly component offers an overview of the current textile production, details how the industry may become sustainable, and suggests practices of environmentally-conscious and ethical design. The creative component is a soil-to-soil seasonless capsule collection titled From Field View that incorporates biomimicry and interrogates the concept of place by referencing the Midwest’s flora, wool, and linen fibers.

“An American Versailles:” Cold War Diplomacy And The Branding Of The American National Image Through The Fashion Of First Lady Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, Holly Carew

History & Classics Undergraduate Theses

HIS 490 History Honors Thesis

Japanese Fashion Legacies, Emily C. Guerry, Patricia B. Metcalf

[Archive] Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

Exploration of Japan's contributions to fashion is highlighted in our research presentation. Silhouettes, textiles, and accessories that originated in ancient Japanese culture are analyzed throughout their evolution. From these findings, a 10-piece capsule collection was made to bring these ideas further into the modern day. We displayed them from traditional to modern to highlight this evolution through the culture. Popular garments such as the Kimono were used as inspiration for details such as thick belts, ties, and wrap-style shirts. Additionally, the textile stitching technique, Sashiko, is a main source of inspiration in the collection. Sashiko started as a mending technique …

A Tribe Laud West 1 : Hip-Hop And Its Influence On Tribal Gear And A New Chicano Generation, Monique Charles

Sociology Faculty Books and Book Chapters

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It should be noted that despite the general counterculture of SoCal in the late 1980s, at the time of Tribal's birth, the laid-back attitude of generation X (1965–80),4 which included apathy and disillusion with the political and 92 economic climate (that “grungy” college educated/tech savvy white American generation Xers experienced under Reagan's neo-liberalism and neo-conservatism), was vastly different to Black and Brown youth in major cities across the United States. Black and Brown people were marginalized on grounds of race, which was exacerbated by police brutality, neighborhoods flooded with drugs (Love, 2016) and weapons, horizontal violence (see Fanon, 2001) …

Long Story Short, Hannah M. Varghese

Graphic Communication

Long Story Short and is a vintage up-cycling art brand. Our mission is to breathe new life into vintage pieces, crafting them into modern wearable art. As the name suggests, each creation tells a story while being revitalized for today’s fashion forward community.

Fast fashion and trend cycling has been a growing problem in today’s society. Things are going ‘in’ and ‘out’ quicker than they ever have. Trend cycling usually operates on a 20-year timeline. But, today’s sped up cycle encourages people to constantly over-consume in chase of the next cool thing. It’s unsustainable and an impossible chase. With a …

Fashion, Freedom, And Feminism: The Transcendent Work Of Rosa Genoni And Her "Tanagra Dress" Reimagined, Christina Trupiano

Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects

The fashion industry itself is broad in scope and dependent upon numerous sub-industries to produce its garments. It is heavily dependent upon machinery of all kinds, yet unlike many industries today, it is still also largely reliant on manual labor, specifically minority women labor. This dependance upon manual labor correlates with its long history of worker exploitation and sweated labor. The concentration of exploitative labor practices in the fashion industry have made it a focal point in the ongoing struggle between workers and the downward pressure capitalism and industrialization placed on worker compensation, quality of life and job security.

This …

Digital Transformation In Swimwear Pattern-Making: A Comparative Study Of Traditional Vs. Digital Methods Using Adobe Illustrator, Soha Rafek Ibrahim Afifi, Wafaa Abdel-Rady Qurashi, Bahira Gebaly Gabr

Journal of Art, Design and Music

The fashion industry is going through a major transformation with the advent of digital technologies. This study presents a comparison of the traditional and digital methods of making swimwear patterns using Adobe Illustrator. The study aims to identify the benefits and challenges of using Adobe Illustrator as a digital tool for patternmaking. The study compares traditional and digital methods’ efficiency, accuracy, and sustainability by studying and applying the basic principles of drafting swimwear patterns. The results show that digital methods using Adobe Illustrator can significantly reduce production time, increase pattern-making accuracy, and improve the sustainability of the production process. The …

Strands Of Repair: Textile Treasures As Sustainable Pathways To Reconnect With The Lost Past, Sareekah Agarwaal, Ruby Kashyap Sood

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textiles, fundamental to all human experiences, are meaning-laden objects that possess a remarkable ability to evoke emotions and memories, serving as powerful mnemonic devices.

Almost everyone experiences unplanned encounters with textiles in their lifetime and in different contexts. Hence, most every piece is loaded with personal, cultural, or historical data, fostering a deep emotional connection between the owner and the object. Consequently, these textiles are cared for, preserved, and often repurposed. But not much literature exists on how textiles and their stories can be used to augment the understanding of the identity of an individual, a group, a region, or …

Negro Cloth: African American Textile Design History, Karen Baker

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Negro cloth is American history. Filled with the contributions to free and enslaved African Americans, this history has gone untold. Even within the narratives and historical archives on African Americans' history with cotton, this conversation goes beyond suffering, pain, and separation. The research reveals how African Americans contributed to indigo and cotton agriculture, weaving, and manufacturing from 1745 to 1865. The historical and narrative research has revealed the buried history of African American textile history, the American Civil War in Federal Writers' Project: Slave Narrative Project. The narratives reveal that enslaved African Americans were weavers who carded, spun, dyed, and …

Inhabiting Numbers: Weaving, Polyphony, And Embodied Mathematics, Kristine Barrett

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Inhabiting Numbers: Polyphony as Woven Sound explores connections between vocal polyphony and textile practices, specifically weaving and spinning. Rather than consider music and weaving as separate from one another, the following paper presents the ways in which they are deeply intertwined and mutually constitutive forms of cultural expression. The technical modes of thinking produced through repetition inherent in both—particularly as practices utilizing complex mathematical structures—produce ways of thinking unique to each. Through practice, I suggest these technical modes of making transit across different materials and mediums—in both explicit and implicit ways. The music created through the interweaving of multiple voices …

Handwoven Drawings, Lynn Bennett Carpenter

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In my Handwoven Drawings series, I developed an innovative method that unifies drawing and weaving. I draw and paint on the surface of soft wood, hand cut the wood into thin strips, and then weave the painted strips back together on a floor loom. The Handwoven Drawings teeter between drawing and textile and beg categorization. The drawing on wood could be thought of as traditional cartoons that instead of guiding a tapestry become the textile itself. The horizontal cuts across the wood articulate lines of weft undulating across the work creating a new sensibility within a woven structure and a …

Chiapas Maya Project - Weaving Community, Lori Benson, Helena Rojas Lopez

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Chiapas Maya Project (CMP), https://chiapasmayaproject.org/, was conceived in 2018 to create a virtual archive of the material culture of the Highland Maya of Chiapas, Mexico. The archive includes objects, images, recordings, and written records documenting a rapidly changing culture. Over time, it has become a more comprehensive project, connecting museum collections, weaving cooperatives, collectives, weavers, artists, intellectual property specialists, and academics. The partners and friends involved with the project focus on conversing and documenting - digitizing collections, if they have them.

What is the most critical information that should be searchable? How do the communities want to access …

Plying Together Knowledges: Revitalization Of Indigenous Textile Knowledge Through Language, Jennifer Byram, Eveline Battiest Steele

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

When studying textiles for which few records exist, where does one turn? For archaeologists studying textiles in non-ideal preservation contexts, the approach often turns to indirect sources of evidence. This paper presents a research project conducted between a textile artist and archaeologist, Jennifer Byram and a basket weaver and Choctaw first-speaker, Eveline Steele, from the Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma. They approached research into Southeastern United States Indigenous textiles by drawing on Choctaw language documents from the 19th century to elucidate past textile knowledge. In doing so, the project has brought forth knowledge about weaving processes and material preparation that is …

Weaving Community: The Manual Loom As Metaphor For Rupture And Repair, Farrah Cato, Prerana Choudhury

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The manual loom anchors women’s community and creative life in rural Assam. We explore this apparatus by extending definitions of the ‘digital’ and reconsidering the loom’s role as metaphor for both (dis)rupture and repair within the culturally diverse and bioculturally rooted lives of indigenous women in Assam. Our methods are based primarily on participatory research, community living, and slow travel undertaken by Prerana to remote parts of this northeastern state of India, juxtaposed with Farrah’s practical and theoretical approaches to technology. United by the recognition of how significant women’s lived histories and material production are, we reconsider the loom’s liminal …

The Touch And Breath Of Cloth: Folding And Unfolding Bedsheets With María Magdalena Campos-Pons, Theresa Downing

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

María Magdalena Campos-Pons’ Spoken Softly with Mama (1998) is an immersive installation she created to commune with her enslaved Nigerian ancestors and extended family in Cuba, when she was living in the U.S. but separated from family due to the embargo. A monumental work in the artist’s oeuvre with slave ship motifs, glass clothes irons, ironing boards, video projection, and sound, the dream-like installation transmits Campos-Pons’ thoughts like a letter written in cotton and silk. The installation centers her female family members, who worked as domestic laborers, with portraits projected or printed upon the means of their employment: bedsheets and …

Draped In History: Unveiling Vijayanagar's Social Tapestry Through Lepakshi Portrayals, Ashima Gupta, Dimple Bahl, Vandana Bhandari

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Veerabhadra Temple in Lepakshi, Andhra Pradesh, India has some of the finest mural paintings created during the Vijayanagar Empire, one of South India’s most powerful dynasties in the 16th century. This paper will look at one of the frescoes depicting the costumes worn by the people during that time period. The artists generally recreate current trends and the world as they see around them. In Lepakshi, painters expressed a strong interest in depicting contemporary dresses, jewelry, hairdos, and so on, which mirrored not only the prevailing fashion trends of the time but also the socio-cultural fabric of the Vijayanagar …

Queen Victoria, The Sultan And The Adventurer: Weaving Strands Of The History Of The Kashmir Shawl, Joan Hart

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Tipu Sultan, William Moorcroft, and Queen Victoria owned Kashmir shawls from Kashmir, India dating from 1780 to 1880. Rare provenance for these shawls reveals the troubled strands of Kashmir production and the shifting political fate of the Kashmiri people.

Tipu Sultan is a hero in India, having conducted successful military campaigns against the British East India Company (1782-1799). Tipu gave a valuable Kashmir shawl to a captive British surgeon in 1784, probably the earliest shawl to enter Britain. Revealing a rare moment when the fate of India was not yet sealed for the British, Tipu still had empathy by honoring …

‘Within The Reach Of Everyone’: Tracing The Global Strands Of Herrman, Sternbach & Co.’S 1880s Imitation Furs, Laura Johnson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Long before faux furs became trendy, vegan-friendly materials, weavers and textile designers in eighteenth and nineteenth century Europe developed a range of woven goods that offered the haptic qualities of animal pelts. Surprisingly, given their popularity, little research has focused on imitation fur production and consumption at the turn of the twentieth century and its earlier roots. This paper traces the strands linking a group of textile samples donated by New York merchant H. Herrman, Sternbach & Co. in 1884 to (what is today) the Smithsonian National Museum of American History through connecting threads of global production, innovation, and consumption. …

“Muy Curiosa Y Muy Diestra”: Bobbin Lace Making In Eighteenth-Century Mexico, Elena Kanagy-Loux

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although bobbin lace was introduced in Mexico through colonization, its local styling—both through making and end use—was by no means a facsimile of its Spanish origins. The appreciation for this “curious and skilled” trimming grew from a long Indigenous history of valuing skilled textile production in the Americas, and lace was quickly interpreted in new ways. Grounded in extant 18th-century objects such as metallic bobbin lace fragments and colchas (or coverlets) with polychrome wool bobbin lace edgings, this project poses the question: what untold stories of the lives of women and girls can these objects reveal? And can this method …

Dung Dkar Cloak: Exploring Soft Interfaces For Sonic Interactions, Judit Eszter Kárpáti, Esteban De La Torre

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The importance of crossmodal interaction within the contemporary cultural, technological and scientific panorama has evidently gained significant attention due to its remarkable advantages in creating a meaningful, interwoven, and integrated experience. The use and recontextualization of textiles in such exploratory quest into the human senses has proven to be critical. Computational science, algorithmic logic and digital devices have always been rooted and closely interwoven with textile crafts and practices. Recent technological advancements have further combined technology and textile, generating interactive textile surfaces, constructing endless possibilities for multisensorial experiences. In this presentation we will examine how we can weave a sensitive …

Incursive Heritage: Socio-Digital Mediations Of Mediterranean, Maria Ida De Ioanni

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Drawing upon the ongoing research endeavors within my doctoral program, this paper articulates a dual objective. Firstly, it undertakes the recognition and systematic delineation of collaborative repositories hosted on social media platforms, which serve to revitalize and perpetuate textile traditions through the curation of oral histories and diverse forms of visiotextual materials. The focal point of this inquiry encompasses social media accounts that reconfigure and contest prevailing heritage narratives by foregrounding hitherto marginalized personal and communal accounts surrounding textiles and fabrics. Functioning as dynamic digital repositories, these accounts subvert conventional heritage discourses by not only archiving and structuring knowledge but …

Copyright For Imitations: Looking At The Registered Design Book Of William Stirling & Sons, Isabel Monseau

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The design and production of printed cotton in the United Kingdom underwent great changes through the nineteenth century. However as the industry grew, many manufacturers became concerned about a perceived decline in the quality of textile design. An attempt made to regulate this industry, the Copyright of Design Act of 1842, proposed to improve the quality of British production by enabling designers and proprietors to register their textile designs and thus prohibit other firms from pirating those original designs.

Yet imitations were crucial to the development and success of Britain’s cotton printing industry. By the 1870s, up to 60% of …