Fashion Design Commons^™

Costume Design And Social Status Visualization In Javanese Dance At Pura Mangkunegaran, Sriyadi -. Sriyadi, R.M. Pramutomo, Yoni Wulan Sari, Luh Elvina

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

The design of costumes holds a crucial role in visualizing the social status of characters in Javanese dance. By employing symbolic systems, costume design conveys this status to the audience. This study investigates the relationship between costume design and the depiction of social status in Javanese dance at Pura Mangkunegaran. Utilizing a qualitative methodology with an ethnocoreological approach, the research draws on a literature review as its primary data source. This review involves analyzing various documents, photographs, and videos. The findings indicate that accessories and attributes within costume design are integral to the symbolic system that represents social status. As …

Catering To The Majority: Fashion’S Trial-And-Error Process To Make Style Accessible For All Sizes, Tiffany A. Del Valle

Capstones

Following the COVID-19 pandemic, two out of every three U.S. women are considered plus-size, or a size 14 and above. As the plus-size fashion market continues to grow and is expected to be worth $500 billion by 2033, finding extended sizes continues to be a barrier. While the fight for size-inclusive fashion has shown some progress in recent years, some brands have decided to scale back their plus-size offerings, while others have continued to limit their size ranges due to a multitude of reasons including production costs with a delayed return on investment, marketing and limited commitment to serving the …

Dh In The Classroom Case Study: Alternative Fashion Trends And Omeka.Net, Bonnie Finn, Amelia Cheever

Libraries Staff Publications

As technology embeds into higher education classroom instruction, digital humanities assignments may be looked to as an alternative for writing papers or curating exhibits, and an area of interest for faculty members looking for multiple ways to build student critical thinking skills. This case-study focuses on an 8-week Omeka.net project assignment created collaboratively by a costume/design professor and the fine arts librarian. This article includes the assignment instructions for students, a rubric to use for Omeka metadata, and lead-in assignments that include image citation, visual literacy, and ethically finding image sources.

[This article is an expansion of a paper presented …

Transatlantic Connections: Reconsidering The Outcomes Of The Arts And Crafts Movement Through The Women's Experience, Britain And The United States, 1860-1920, Tiffany B. Beasley

Graduate Theses and Dissertations (2019 - present)

The British Arts and Crafts movement (1860-1914) was a call for the return to artisan craftsmanship as a response to mass-production driven by the Industrial Revolution (1760-1830). Historically, the movement has been viewed as a socialist concept developed by men. However, in 1979, a feminist intervention in women's history challenged this masculinist perspective. As the movement spread to the United States (1870-1920), first to New England and then to the South in New Orleans, it also expanded into concepts that moved beyond craftsmanship and into women's issues, such as education, suffrage, and professional work opportunities. It is now evident that …

Crafting 21st-Century Trend-Compliant Fashion Collections For Muslim Women: Ghana In Perspective, Rashida Abdulai, Ninette Afi Appiah, Isaac Abraham

Journal of Art, Design and Music

Purpose: The study examined the integration of global fashion trends with Islamic modesty principles in clothing design for Ghanaian Muslim women. It explored the blending of contemporary styles with the requirements of Islamic dress codes, considering the increasing diversity and modernization of Muslim women’s fashion preferences.

Method: The study utilized art-based studio research and the double Helix Praxis-Exegesis Model, which involves customer profiling, concept creation using mood boards, and design techniques. Ten respondents were purposively selected and interviewed. Feedback from interviews ensured the designs resonated with the target audience.

Findings and Conclusion: The study discovered that contemporary Islamic fashion combines …

Naming And Interpretative Meanings Of Selected African Prints And Ankara Fabric Designs, Adeola Abiodun Adeoti

Journal of Art, Design and Music

Ankara fabric has colourful designs, but both the colours and the designs on the fabric have hidden meanings with proverbs and events attached to them. As much as the fact that the paper is art historical, the naming system of Ankara fabric is yet to attract scholarly interest. Therefore, the ephemerality of the fabric and the changing nature of fashion call for immediate and chronological record of the histories of the designs before it fades out of memory. The study adopts qualitative approach of analyzing data with the use of both primary and secondary sources of data collection which were …

Wild Joy: An Exploration In Queer Spatial Dynamics, Kipper Thomas Reinsmith

Masters Theses

What does it mean to feel represented in a space?

What does a trans space look like?

How can we queer our interior spaces?

Our world is crafted by the many designers that have come before us. These systems, products, and spaces are built upon assumptions of the bodies that will use and occupy them—namely cisgender, able-bodied, straight folks.

Designing and creating objects as a trans person is an act of radical nature. To take up space, to design for trans luxury, for the sake of beauty, for joy itself, feels counterintuitive to the narratives we’ve been served: that of …

Urban Looms, Recoloring City, Ella Son

Masters Theses

The metropolis has been a dominant and defining aspect of my life. Acutely aware of visual illusions created by the choreographed and unchoreographed movements of people in the streets and the distortions of light and shadow on the glass facades of skyscrapers, I reinterpret the patterns and colors that are in constant interplay into a collection of architectural textiles.

With an emphasis on optical layering, these immersive installations recreate the quality of being spellbound in the city. Scaled to emphasize verticality and activated through transparent overlays and dense color interplay, a rich visual field is activated. In their application, the …

Costumed Culture: Influences And Preservation On Broadway, Amanda L. Padilla

Publications and Research

This research talks about into the preservation and evolution of costuming in Broadway productions, and exploring how historical and contemporary designs intersect in certain productions. Through articles and an interview with an IATSE worker, it examines the socio-cultural influences shaping costume choices and the technical advancements driving innovation. By tracing the trajectory of Broadway costuming, from its roots to modern adaptations, this study talks about theatrical storytelling and its broader impact on fashion and cultural trends. It shows the significance of costuming as an art form reflective of constantly changing societal norms and artistic expressions on the Broadway stage.

The J In Danger, Zachary Delamater

Theses and Dissertations

“The J in Danger” merges autobiographic and formal concerns in sculpture and installation to describe the existential hazards contemporary life poses to Queer and Disabled individuals. The paper utilizes silent letters as thematic device to connect notions of precarity to a broader sense of contemporary “doomerism.”

Default, Noah Pica

Theses and Dissertations

“Default” explores the formation and maintenance of normalcy, uniformity, and banality in American life. Noah Pica starts with the visual language of lined paper, prefabricated objects, model-making kits, and blueprints. He reforms these structures through a sculpture practice, investigating how their design inconspicuously implements social norms.

The Catholic Runway: Examining The Representation Of The Chasuble In Modern Couture, Brendan Baehr

Honors Thesis

In Catholic tradition, the chasuble is a central garment worn by clergy members originating as far back as the 6^th century, albeit under a different name. The chasuble is the outermost form of vestment for members of the clergy and takes the general shape of a cone, leaving room for the head to be placed in a circular opening. The changes in form of the chasuble will be something I exam within this paper, as although often relatively minor, still reflect changing attitudes towards fashion sensibilities within the Catholic church over time. I will be primarily examining these changes …

Development Of Woven Blouses For Women Living Flat, Ailish Leahy

Apparel Merchandising and Product Development Undergraduate Honors Theses

Breast cancer is one of the most common cancers in women, with millions of survivors in the United States today. A mastectomy surgery is the most recommended treatment for breast cancer. A mastectomy removes the entire infected breast area, and it can be necessary for women to receive a double mastectomy to have both breasts removed. After receiving a mastectomy, women are faced with a decision: to receive breast reconstruction or to opt out of it.

Recently there has been an increase in the number of women who are opting out of breast reconstruction, also known as choosing to ‘live …

The Phygital Design Process: Using Emerging Technologies To Create A Phygital Fashion Brand Rooted In Nostalgia, Madeline M. Mcdaniel

Creativity and Change Leadership Graduate Student Master's Projects

This Master's Project is a comprehensive exploration of the intersection of digital fashion design, nostalgia, and sustainable practices. Its primary objective is to create 'project CYBERBAE,' a phygital fashion collection that draws inspiration from early 2000s video game characters, trends, and aesthetics. The project utilizes advanced digital tools like Clo3D to demonstrate a comprehensive digital fashion design process that emphasizes inclusivity and sustainability. It also pioneers the development of a 3D virtual world, providing users with an immersive environment to interact with and experience digital fashion. This virtual space serves as a platform for a community of fashion, technology, and …

Clothing, From Textiles To Pixels: Exploring The Possibilities Of Design With Clo3d Software, Tina Shetabi

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

This project explores the application of Clo3d software as a transformative educational tool in couture fashion design instruction. Despite couture's rich tradition of meticulous craftsmanship and personalized design, its teaching methodologies have yet to fully leverage digital advancements. This project examines the integration of Clo3d into the apparel design program curriculum, specifically focusing on the undergraduate course Digital Apparel Design at the University of Nebraska Lincoln. Through a combination of theoretical knowledge and practical application, this project aims to determine how digital tools like Clo3d can enhance the learning outcomes of fashion design students by providing a more interactive and …

From Field To Fashion: A Journey In Sustainable Design And Regional Understanding, Lily Turner

Individually Designed Interdepartmental Major Honors Project

As the fashion industry became globalized over the past century, it has become a major environment polluter and exposed laborers to hazardous conditions. This honors project considers sustainability in the textile industry at large and at the regional scale of the Upper Midwest. Its scholarly component offers an overview of the current textile production, details how the industry may become sustainable, and suggests practices of environmentally-conscious and ethical design. The creative component is a soil-to-soil seasonless capsule collection titled From Field View that incorporates biomimicry and interrogates the concept of place by referencing the Midwest’s flora, wool, and linen fibers.

“An American Versailles:” Cold War Diplomacy And The Branding Of The American National Image Through The Fashion Of First Lady Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, Holly Carew

History & Classics Undergraduate Theses

HIS 490 History Honors Thesis

Japanese Fashion Legacies, Emily C. Guerry, Patricia B. Metcalf

[Archive] Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

Exploration of Japan's contributions to fashion is highlighted in our research presentation. Silhouettes, textiles, and accessories that originated in ancient Japanese culture are analyzed throughout their evolution. From these findings, a 10-piece capsule collection was made to bring these ideas further into the modern day. We displayed them from traditional to modern to highlight this evolution through the culture. Popular garments such as the Kimono were used as inspiration for details such as thick belts, ties, and wrap-style shirts. Additionally, the textile stitching technique, Sashiko, is a main source of inspiration in the collection. Sashiko started as a mending technique …

A Tribe Laud West 1 : Hip-Hop And Its Influence On Tribal Gear And A New Chicano Generation, Monique Charles

Sociology Faculty Books and Book Chapters

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It should be noted that despite the general counterculture of SoCal in the late 1980s, at the time of Tribal's birth, the laid-back attitude of generation X (1965–80),4 which included apathy and disillusion with the political and 92 economic climate (that “grungy” college educated/tech savvy white American generation Xers experienced under Reagan's neo-liberalism and neo-conservatism), was vastly different to Black and Brown youth in major cities across the United States. Black and Brown people were marginalized on grounds of race, which was exacerbated by police brutality, neighborhoods flooded with drugs (Love, 2016) and weapons, horizontal violence (see Fanon, 2001) …

Long Story Short, Hannah M. Varghese

Graphic Communication

Long Story Short and is a vintage up-cycling art brand. Our mission is to breathe new life into vintage pieces, crafting them into modern wearable art. As the name suggests, each creation tells a story while being revitalized for today’s fashion forward community.

Fast fashion and trend cycling has been a growing problem in today’s society. Things are going ‘in’ and ‘out’ quicker than they ever have. Trend cycling usually operates on a 20-year timeline. But, today’s sped up cycle encourages people to constantly over-consume in chase of the next cool thing. It’s unsustainable and an impossible chase. With a …

Fashion, Freedom, And Feminism: The Transcendent Work Of Rosa Genoni And Her "Tanagra Dress" Reimagined, Christina Trupiano

Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects

The fashion industry itself is broad in scope and dependent upon numerous sub-industries to produce its garments. It is heavily dependent upon machinery of all kinds, yet unlike many industries today, it is still also largely reliant on manual labor, specifically minority women labor. This dependance upon manual labor correlates with its long history of worker exploitation and sweated labor. The concentration of exploitative labor practices in the fashion industry have made it a focal point in the ongoing struggle between workers and the downward pressure capitalism and industrialization placed on worker compensation, quality of life and job security.

This …

Digital Transformation In Swimwear Pattern-Making: A Comparative Study Of Traditional Vs. Digital Methods Using Adobe Illustrator, Soha Rafek Ibrahim Afifi, Wafaa Abdel-Rady Qurashi, Bahira Gebaly Gabr

Journal of Art, Design and Music

The fashion industry is going through a major transformation with the advent of digital technologies. This study presents a comparison of the traditional and digital methods of making swimwear patterns using Adobe Illustrator. The study aims to identify the benefits and challenges of using Adobe Illustrator as a digital tool for patternmaking. The study compares traditional and digital methods’ efficiency, accuracy, and sustainability by studying and applying the basic principles of drafting swimwear patterns. The results show that digital methods using Adobe Illustrator can significantly reduce production time, increase pattern-making accuracy, and improve the sustainability of the production process. The …

Strands Of Repair: Textile Treasures As Sustainable Pathways To Reconnect With The Lost Past, Sareekah Agarwaal, Ruby Kashyap Sood

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textiles, fundamental to all human experiences, are meaning-laden objects that possess a remarkable ability to evoke emotions and memories, serving as powerful mnemonic devices.

Almost everyone experiences unplanned encounters with textiles in their lifetime and in different contexts. Hence, most every piece is loaded with personal, cultural, or historical data, fostering a deep emotional connection between the owner and the object. Consequently, these textiles are cared for, preserved, and often repurposed. But not much literature exists on how textiles and their stories can be used to augment the understanding of the identity of an individual, a group, a region, or …

Negro Cloth: African American Textile Design History, Karen Baker

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Negro cloth is American history. Filled with the contributions to free and enslaved African Americans, this history has gone untold. Even within the narratives and historical archives on African Americans' history with cotton, this conversation goes beyond suffering, pain, and separation. The research reveals how African Americans contributed to indigo and cotton agriculture, weaving, and manufacturing from 1745 to 1865. The historical and narrative research has revealed the buried history of African American textile history, the American Civil War in Federal Writers' Project: Slave Narrative Project. The narratives reveal that enslaved African Americans were weavers who carded, spun, dyed, and …

Inhabiting Numbers: Weaving, Polyphony, And Embodied Mathematics, Kristine Barrett

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Inhabiting Numbers: Polyphony as Woven Sound explores connections between vocal polyphony and textile practices, specifically weaving and spinning. Rather than consider music and weaving as separate from one another, the following paper presents the ways in which they are deeply intertwined and mutually constitutive forms of cultural expression. The technical modes of thinking produced through repetition inherent in both—particularly as practices utilizing complex mathematical structures—produce ways of thinking unique to each. Through practice, I suggest these technical modes of making transit across different materials and mediums—in both explicit and implicit ways. The music created through the interweaving of multiple voices …

Handwoven Drawings, Lynn Bennett Carpenter

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In my Handwoven Drawings series, I developed an innovative method that unifies drawing and weaving. I draw and paint on the surface of soft wood, hand cut the wood into thin strips, and then weave the painted strips back together on a floor loom. The Handwoven Drawings teeter between drawing and textile and beg categorization. The drawing on wood could be thought of as traditional cartoons that instead of guiding a tapestry become the textile itself. The horizontal cuts across the wood articulate lines of weft undulating across the work creating a new sensibility within a woven structure and a …

Chiapas Maya Project - Weaving Community, Lori Benson, Helena Rojas Lopez

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Chiapas Maya Project (CMP), https://chiapasmayaproject.org/, was conceived in 2018 to create a virtual archive of the material culture of the Highland Maya of Chiapas, Mexico. The archive includes objects, images, recordings, and written records documenting a rapidly changing culture. Over time, it has become a more comprehensive project, connecting museum collections, weaving cooperatives, collectives, weavers, artists, intellectual property specialists, and academics. The partners and friends involved with the project focus on conversing and documenting - digitizing collections, if they have them.

What is the most critical information that should be searchable? How do the communities want to access …

Plying Together Knowledges: Revitalization Of Indigenous Textile Knowledge Through Language, Jennifer Byram, Eveline Battiest Steele

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

When studying textiles for which few records exist, where does one turn? For archaeologists studying textiles in non-ideal preservation contexts, the approach often turns to indirect sources of evidence. This paper presents a research project conducted between a textile artist and archaeologist, Jennifer Byram and a basket weaver and Choctaw first-speaker, Eveline Steele, from the Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma. They approached research into Southeastern United States Indigenous textiles by drawing on Choctaw language documents from the 19th century to elucidate past textile knowledge. In doing so, the project has brought forth knowledge about weaving processes and material preparation that is …

Weaving Community: The Manual Loom As Metaphor For Rupture And Repair, Farrah Cato, Prerana Choudhury

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The manual loom anchors women’s community and creative life in rural Assam. We explore this apparatus by extending definitions of the ‘digital’ and reconsidering the loom’s role as metaphor for both (dis)rupture and repair within the culturally diverse and bioculturally rooted lives of indigenous women in Assam. Our methods are based primarily on participatory research, community living, and slow travel undertaken by Prerana to remote parts of this northeastern state of India, juxtaposed with Farrah’s practical and theoretical approaches to technology. United by the recognition of how significant women’s lived histories and material production are, we reconsider the loom’s liminal …

The Touch And Breath Of Cloth: Folding And Unfolding Bedsheets With María Magdalena Campos-Pons, Theresa Downing

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

María Magdalena Campos-Pons’ Spoken Softly with Mama (1998) is an immersive installation she created to commune with her enslaved Nigerian ancestors and extended family in Cuba, when she was living in the U.S. but separated from family due to the embargo. A monumental work in the artist’s oeuvre with slave ship motifs, glass clothes irons, ironing boards, video projection, and sound, the dream-like installation transmits Campos-Pons’ thoughts like a letter written in cotton and silk. The installation centers her female family members, who worked as domestic laborers, with portraits projected or printed upon the means of their employment: bedsheets and …