Fashion Design Commons^™

High Decoration: Sonia Delaunay, Blaise Cendrars, And The Poem As Fashion Design, Carrie Noland

Journal X

No abstract provided.

The Textile Industry: A Deep Look Into The Environmental Impacts Of Fast Fashion, Jordan Miller

Honors Theses

The purpose of this research was to understand the detrimental effects the textile industry has had on global environments and ecosystems across the globe. The textile industry for many years has continued to disregard the current acceleration of global warming and other environmental crises, and it is time the fashion industry holds itself accountable for these actions and takes a change in a new, more sustainable future. With proper education of the environmental pollution the textile industry has made, young consumers will be able to make the change necessary for businesses to develop more sustainable habits for the future production. …

Utilizing Repurposed Denim To Create Apparel For Those With Cerebral Palsy, Monique Rodriguez

Apparel Merchandising and Product Development Undergraduate Honors Theses

Cerebral Palsy (CP) is the most common motor disability in children. In the U.S alone one million children and adults live with a diagnosis of cerebral palsy. Due to the increasing life expectancy of individuals with CP, the number of adults with this disorder is increasing, thus their medical and social care needs are changing (Moreno-De-Luca et al., 2012). For years children and adults who live with CP struggle in finding clothing that works for them and their needs. Currently the market for adaptable clothing is small. For people with CP, the lack of adaptive clothing creates large barriers whether …

Innovator - Spring 2020

Innovator

05 - Message from the President

08 - The Past is a Prologue

15 - Shrinking World/Expanding Horizons

16 - The Nexus: News at Jefferson

20 - Jefferson Hits the Runway at NYFW

22 - A Game Changer

26 - Binge Swatching

30 - Breaking Down the Walls

38 - Coming Full Circle

44 - Question and Innovate

46 - Designer Health

50 - The Site is the Star

54 - Transcend and Include

60 - Reimagine

64 - Ram Roundup

68 - Class Notes

74 - In Memory

78 - Triva

Innovator - Winter 2020

Innovator

8 - A MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT

10 - WHAT’S HAPPENING AT JEFFERSON

16 - DEFINING THE FUTURE OF LEARNING AND WORK
How well are institutions of higher education preparing their graduates for the realities of work in the 21st century?

26 - IT’S IN OUR DNA
Innovative partnership leads to Jefferson Institute for Bioprocessing.

32 - JEFFERSON IS GLOBAL
Jefferson’s study away program provides life-changing experiences for students.

36 - PURSUING KNOWLEDGE AND IMPACT
Provost Mark L. Tykocinski, MD, explores the different research initiatives happening across Jefferson.

38 - LIVING THE DREAM
Jefferson grad orbits among the stars like …

Innovator - Fall 2016

Innovator

4 - What’s Now: Impact Edition

6 - Building the Futures Center

9 - Snapshots of Impact

12 - The Six Steps to Success

16 - On Common Ground

18 - Opening the Door of Opportunity

20 - A Team Effort

24 - The Clash of Tradition and Technology

26 - Enriching the Student Experience

27 - Who Named the Rams?

27 - Financial Information

Innovator - Winter 2015

Innovator

4 - What’s Now: Impact Edition

6 - Athletics

8 - W. W. Smith Scholarship

12 - A Full Embrace

18 - Donor Honor Roll

23 - Financial Information

Innovator - Fall 2014

Innovator

4 - What’s Now: Impact Edition

6 - Scholarships

8 - Term Chairs

10 - Power to Innovate Campaign

20 - Donor Profile: Handsel Minyard

23 - Financial Information

Innovator - Fall/Winter 2013

Innovator

1 - THE BIG PICTURE

8 - WHAT’S NOW

16 - PINBOARD

17 - MIKE MADE THAT
Mike Leonard, academic dean of the School of Design and Engineering, gives us the inside story about his role in the invention of just about everything.

20 - MEET THE NEW BOARD CHAIR
Entrepreneur and education advocate, Eileen Martinson ’86, brings her passion and expertise for smart technology and education to her new role as Board Chair.

24 - THE DEC CENTER
Built to evolve as curricula changes, the DEC Center has quickly become the campus’ new academic hub.

26 - CHARTING THE …

Innovator - Fall 2012

Innovator

02 - A TRANSFORMATIVE GIFT
With his donation of $15 million, the largest single gift in University history, in support of the Kanbar College of Design, Engineering and Commerce, Maurice Kanbar ’52, H’03 continues his unwavering support of his alma mater.

06 - PRESIDENT SPINEELI COMMENTARY
President Spinelli, a leading authority in entrepreneurship, describes the experience of teaching innovation to freshmen.

08 - WHAT'S THE PROBLEM?
Freshmen in the Kanbar College of Design, Engineering and Commerce become professionals and learn how to turn problems into opportunities by working in real-world settings right from the start of their college careers.

12 …

Innovator - Summer 2011

Innovator

02 - LIVING IN YOUR GENES
Through its nationally ranked physician assistant studies program — led by insightful faculty and an award-winning champion of genetic literacy education — PhilaU is transforming a generation to “think genetically.”

06 - PRESIDENT SPINELLI COMMENTARY
New College structure maximizes students’ experiences

08 - QUIET ON THE SET
Emmy-nominated alumna Kim Wannop ’99 dresses six or more sets each week for Fox’s hit TV show Bones.

12 - MEET RON KANDER, PH.D.
The executive dean of the College of Design, Engineering and Commerce leads a revolutionary, transdisciplinary curriculum.

18 - NEWS

22 - PROFILES

24 …

Innovator - Fall 2010

Innovator

2 - TEXTILE LEGACY LEADING TO BIOMEDICAL BREAKTHROUGHS
PhilaU researchers developing a cardiac patch

6 - PRESIDENT SPINELLI COMMENTARY
A Great Return on Investment

8 - THE BUSINESS OF FASHION
Fashion thinking zeros in on bottom line

14 - MEN IN FLIGHT
Guggenheim Fellow chronicles history of male flight attendants

18 - PHILAU NEWS

22 - Q&A WITH NATHAN VANHOOK ’03
Alumnus designs new Nike shoe “Aina Chukka”

24 - PROFILES

28 - PHILAU AROUND THE WORLD
Alumni, faculty and students’ global impact

33 - AWARDS AND HONORS

34 - A THIRD DIMENSION TO THE INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS EXPERIENCE
Faculty commentary …

Innovator - Winter 2010

Innovator

2 - STEPPING FORWARD AS A NATIONAL MODEL
PhilaU takes a leadership role in green education

6 - 125 THINGS THAT MAKE PHILAU GREAT
Celebrating our 125th Anniversary

12 - PRESIDENT SPINELLI COMMENTARY
A Solid Foundation for the 21st Century

14 - NEW VISION FOR THE ACADEMY
A day in the life of Provost Randy Swearer

18 - STRATEGIC INITIATIVES
Developing the model for professional education in the 21st century

22 - PROFILES

24 - TRUSTEE UPDATE

26 - PHILAU NEWS

31 - AWARDS AND HONORS

32 - EMBRACING THE NEW WORLD OF PERSONALIZED MEDICINE
Faculty commentary by Michael A. …

Freedom Quilt: Collective Patchwork In Post-Communist Hungary, Christalena Hughmanick

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The paper investigates the democratic and social values of patchwork quilting through its culture of open-source pattern sharing and communal group work – using The Freedom Quilt Hungary project as a primary example. I facilitated a social engagement artwork, developed in 2019 on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the end of Socialist rule in Hungary in 1989. This change resulted in new laws, allowing for the formation of the Hungarian Patchwork Guild (HPG), with whom I worked closely to create the work. It provided members of this group and the public with a platform to define individual notions …

Prejudiced Commodities: Understanding Knowledge Transfer From India To Britain Through Printed And Painted Calicoes, 1720-1780, Aditi Khare

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The eighteenth-century trade in calico between Europe and India was a function of global textile manufacture, exchange, and consumption on multiple levels. This trade had several political, cultural, and economic consequences— the most important of which, I suggest, was the transfer of useful knowledge from artisanal oral textile traditions in India to the receptive, commercial, and nascent cotton printing industry in Europe.

This paper explores the contribution of Indian cotton printing knowledge towards the development of Europe’s cotton industry and, consequently, its dissemination through European knowledge networks. In particular, the largely overlooked chemical knowledge pertaining to dyes and mordants responsible …

Schoolgirl Embroideries & Black Girlhood In Antebellum Philadelphia, Kelli Racine Coles

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Embroideries stitched by girls at schools for Black children in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries are rare finds in the antiques world. The few embroideries likely stitched by Black schoolgirls that do survive often offer historical evidence in the form of the names of their makers’ schools stitched onto their embroideries. Yet there is little scholarship on these embroideries or the education these schoolgirls were pursuing while creating their samplers. In scholarship using material culture as primary evidence, these embroideries provide valuable clues about the lives of Black girls in northern cities during the antebellum period. My work examines the …

Arpilleras The Vessels Of Chile’S Resistance, Soledad Fátima Muñoz

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Most historians locate the beginning of the Chilean military government after the coup d’etat, which overthrew democratically elected President Salvador Allende, on September 11, 1973. However, I would like to focus on the ideological background that preceded this era through the investigation of arpilleras and their relationship to Western academic institutions in the making and writing of history—more specifically, to the University of Chicago as the “Ideological State Apparatus” responsible for the implementation of neoliberalism in Chile.

Arpilleras are patchwork-based textiles of narrative imagery, made with a technique of applique and embroidery on a burlap background. They are produced in …

Plants In The Tapestry (Literally), Ann H. Peters, Adriana Soldi S.

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Among our studies of ancient Peruvian textiles created in tapestry technique, we have come across some surprising elements, both in the warp and the weft. Andean textiles created over the past 10,000 years have been preserved in certain locations along the Pacific desert coast. They are usually preserved in the cloth bundles that protect and adorn the dead, and composed of fibers from native cotton varieties of Amazonian ancestry, the hair of highland ancestors of today’s llama and alpaca, maguey leaves from the mid-valley canyons, and reeds from coastal marshes. Garment forms, techniques and imagery can indicate textiles produced in …

Kenyan Basketry (Ciondo) By Women From Central And Eastern Kenya, Mercy Wanduara

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Kenyan baskets commonly known as kiondo/kyondo (s)/ciondo (p) are made by women in different parts of Kenya mainly as utilitarian items for carrying goods around. The baskets are made using traditional/indigenous fibers that are readily available near where people live. The fibers may be from plant stems of shrubs, barks of trees, or banana fibers. The fibers are manually harvested, processed (spun), dyed, and woven into baskets. Dye stuffs are produced locally from natural sources such as mud (brown), leaves from specific plants (green), tree barks (red and brown), and charcoal (black), among other sources. Even though basketry is …

A Compared Study Of Miao Embroidery And Ancient Chinese Embroidery: The Cultural And Historical Significances, Tomoko Torimaru

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Miao people of Guizhou province, China, use two different types of chain stitch. One is a standard chain stitch similar to the Western style. The other one, which I termed “ancient” chain stitch, is distinctly different in execution and appearance, and it is a technique that only Miao practice currently.

Numerous examples of fine chain stitch embroidery have been excavated from archeological sites in China, including the Jiangling Mashan No.1 Chu Tomb, Jingzhou, Hubei, Warring States period (770–221 BC) and the Mawangdui No.1 Tomb, Changsha, Hunan, Western Han period (206 BC–AD 8). These extant embroideries clearly illustrate a unique …

Alnôbakskwak: Native American Women Making Ceremonial Regalia, Vera Longtoe Sheehan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the borderland between the United States and Canada stand communities of Native American people whose resilience enabled them to survive the ravages of hundreds of years of wars, eugenics, and racism that persists into the present day. These factors contributed to the decline of traditions and a subsequent period of cultural renewal and pride that has led up to several Abenaki tribes petitioning the State of Vermont for tribal Recognition. When the Recognition applications were compared, it became apparent that they had retained many of their agricultural traditions and that their cultural revitalization efforts could be extended not only …

Of Prophets, Caterpillars, And Silver: Job And The Origin-Story Of Sericulture In The Early Modern Islamic World, Nader Sayadi

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Similar to most pre-modern guilds and crafts around the world, the silk craft had origin-stories and patron saints to provide its practitioners with “historical” background and institutional heredity. In the early modern Safavid era— as discussed in a rare silk-weaving treatise in Persian titled The Treatise of Silk-Weaving and Grasping the Grip of the Shuttle (Resāleh-e yeh Shaʿrbāfi va Gereftan-e Qabzeh-e yeh Māku) dated October 18, 1606—the origin-story of sericulture and silk-weaving has been woven into the Biblical/Qur’anic narrative of Job (Ayyoub). The contemporary Ottoman futuwwatnama literature gives similar narratives; however, the story of Job in the Bible and Qur’an, …

Tameji Ueno: A Living National Treasure Of Kyoto Textiles, Keiko Okamoto

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

When the Japanese word yūzen is translated into English, it is hard to find an exact expression, as yūzen is used to describe both “hand-painted dyeing on textiles” and a “look-alike style of prints.” Yūzen is the unique aspect of Japanese “motif dyeing” in which the pre-modern hand-painted method survives when printing methods are used for mass production.

The Ueno family from Kyoto devoted themselves to design and manufacture of high-end hand-painted yūzen dyeing since the early twentieth century.

This paper will follow the Ueno family’s one hundred years of contributions to kimono textile development along with its applications and …

An Uncommon Ammunition Case: Interpreting “Transitional” Textiles And Social Worlds In Nineteenth-Century Tlingit Alaska, Laura J. Allen

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Overlooked objects in museum collections can reveal complex social relationships behind well-known textile forms. A tattered woven case for ammunition cartridges, collected in southern Alaska in the late nineteenth century, presents such an opportunity. Part of the vast Tlingit collection at the American Museum of Natural History, the ammunition bag has been little documented and displayed compared to other highly esteemed indigenous naaxein or Chilkat weavings of the region. The piece is unusual in that the maker combined two weaving styles—not only figural motifs characteristic of Chilkat weaving, but also geometric patterns reminiscent of its stylistic and technical precursor called …

Signed In Silk And Silver: Examining An Eighteenth-Century Torah Ark Curtain And Its Maker, Genevieve Cortinovis, Miriam Murphy

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Around 1755, Simhah Viterbo (c. 1739-1779) completed a luxurious Torah ark curtain, or parokhet, in Ancona, an important port city on Italy’s Adriatic coast. The base fabric, a bright blue silk satin, is appliqued with gold and silver guipure embroidery, vellum sections covered with metal-wrapped threads, spiral wound wires, and flattened strips of metal. Paillettes punctuate the Hebrew inscription, which runs across the curtain’s lower edge. The central grotesque composition, a series of stacked, diapered cartouches in the vein of Daniel Marot (1661-1752), fans out towards the enclosed borders. Florist flowers—blousy carnations, roses, and campanula—delicately embroidered in blush-colored silk threads, …

Glitched Metaphors: Dysfunction In Hand-Woven Digital Jacquard, Gabe Duggan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This presentation demonstrates various ways in which the TC1 has supported my work’s exploration of tension, balance, and precarity. By embracing and pushing expectations of traditional fiber work, these weavings question inequalities within contemporary performances of gender and exhibitions of power. My work on the TC1/TC2 digital jacquard loom has been primarily tethered to one specific machine with which I have shared a personal past and future for just over a decade. Through this technology I have built and negated tension, challenging a broad range of power dynamics. My work with this TC1 seeks to exploit and balance this technology …

A Tale Of Two Sisters: Invisibility, Marginalization And Renown In A 20th Century Textile Arts Revitalization Movement In New Mexico, Suzanne P. Macaulay

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

While this presentation does not address oppression in the global textile industry and injustices to leagues of anonymous enslaved women workers, it does raise questions about the vicissitudes of fame and obscurity of two women relative to artistic creation and textile arts revitalization efforts. This is the story of two Varos sisters, who married two Graves brothers, and lived in Carson, New Mexico. In the early 1930s Frances and Sophie Graves with their extended families repaired Spanish colonial textiles for the Santa Fe market. At some point they began to recreate traditional Spanish colonial-type colcha embroideries from recycled materials salvaged …

Between Craft And Design: Lucienne Day And Eszter Haraszty, Kevin Kosbab

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Lucienne Day and Eszter Haraszty were leaders in both the design and business of mid-century textiles, Day through prominent commissions with Heal Fabrics and other firms in Britain, and Haraszty as director of Knoll’s textile division in the United States. Later, each designer turned from design for commercial production toward needlework-derived textile art, but their attitudes and methods were strikingly different. Both designers’ commercial work is well documented in scholarly design literature (Day’s especially), but their needlework is relatively neglected. This paper will shed deserved light on their textile art at a time when the studio craft movement was solidifying, …

Shared Provenance: Investigating Safavid-Mughal Cultural Exchange Through Luxury Silks In The Sixteenth And Seventeenth Centuries, Nazanin Hedayat Munroe

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

When examining silk textiles attributed to the early modern Persianate world, there is always some uncertainty as to whether they were produced in Safavid Iran or Mughal India. The confusion is warranted: the two courts share many of the same ideas, images, and even family connections, creating a broad cultural overlap. This becomes apparent in the arts from the mid-sixteenth century onwards, as politics and patronage prompted the migration of key Safavid artists, including weavers, from Iran to Mughal India. As Persian painting was developed in the royal atelier, luxury silks were also produced with Safavid techniques.

Examining these imported …

Colcha Circle: A Stitch In Northern New Mexico Culture, Olimpia Newman, Rebecca Abrams

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Colcha embroidery is folk art, characteristic of northern New Mexico history, traditions, and a form of cultural expression that has not been researched and documented sufficiently. It has been practiced in private homes and small circles as a result of commissions or economic development programs, as has also been the case in the San Luis Valley, Colorado. Despite the exposure offered by local markets and demonstrations during events in New Mexico, the embroidery is in many ways an unknown technique, even to the next generation.

This video captures a candid discussion among eleven colcha artists, some of whom are entering …