Fashion Design Commons^™

Threads, Twist And Fibre: Looking At Coast Salish Textiles, Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Coast Salish textiles are: remarkable for their quality; unusual in the fibres used; notable in their designs; singular in the innovative processes used to manufacture them. Salish textiles were determined by geography, shaped by trade, and influenced by colonization. That the textile tradition has survived is a reflection of the prestige they hold and the importance of the textiles in the Coast Salish culture. Relatively unknown and underappreciated, the older textiles deserve to be looked at with fresh eyes and modern methods that bring to light the outstanding abilities of the Coast Salish women in the creation of these important …

Ancient, Indigenous And Iconic Textile Motifs In Contemporary Fashion Case Study: Defining Concepts Through Textile Designs: Appropriation, Collaboration, Provenance And Identity, Kristin Scheel Lunde

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper investigates the material and visual characteristics of certain ancient and historical textile motifs with roots in Chinese and African culture, and their sudden appearance in new geographical and cultural context. Appropriated into western contemporary textile and fashion trends, this paper examines the new roles of these designs in context of foreigness, identity, and hybridity. Their consumption and reception both within and beyond their original cultures is a central theme, and it is evident that their reception in both locations, although different, exhibits some similarities. Exploring the transcultural consumption and reception that occurs in various cultural locations this paper …

Nd’Awakananawal Babijigwezijik Wd’Elasawawôganôl: “We Wear The Clothing Of Our Ancestors”, Vera Longtoe Sheehan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

When thinking of Native American people, a typical image is of tanned people with long dark hair wearing leather and furs in the distant past, but that is not an accurate depiction of the Abenaki people or their textiles. As an Abenaki scholar, artist, and educator, my research into the textile traditions of the Abenaki people includes archaeological evidence, primary resources, and oral history interviews. Abenakis themselves have different ideas of what it traditional because textile and fiber arts evolved over many millennia throughout N’dakinna, the Abenaki homeland which once encompassed Vermont, New Hampshire, northern Massachusetts, and parts of New …

Manipulating The Threads Of Culture: Contemporary Shibori Artist Yvonne Wakabayashi, Eileen Wheeler

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Deeply anchored in her practice of shaping and manipulating fibre are both the aesthetic integral to Yvonne Wakabayashi’s Japanese heritage and the inspiration of the natural environment she finds along the shores of her own birth place, Canada’s west coast. Wakabayashi’s journey to find her authentic voice in her varied textile works, engaged both historical craft practices of Japan and printmaking processes of the West. Most importantly, it led to the discovery of shibori with its ancestral links and innovative contemporary possibilities. This paper explores how an individual artist embraces her artistic cultural identity that also negotiates the upheaval wrought …

Bodylore And Dress, Amy K. Milligan

Women's & Gender Studies Faculty Publications

Bodylore includes the ways in which the body is used as a canvas for inherited and chosen identity. Bodylore considers the symbolic inventory of dress and hair, addressing a range of identities from conservative religious groups like the Amish and the Hasidim to edgy goth and punk devotees. The body is scripted in portrayals of race, ethnicity, gender, age, religion, and politics, including such topics as tattoos, piercing, scarification, hair covering and styling, traditional and folk dress, fashion, and body modification. The central bodylore questions are whether individuals choose consciously or subconsciously to engage with their performative body, as well …

Of The Crickets, Kathryn Lien

Theses and Dissertations

Of the Crickets imagines the overlapping worlds of ethical ecological solutions to climate changed sustenance and the potential for collective excellence in female exclusive environments. Using garments, furniture, site-specific installation and directed performance, the project harnesses social and material sensitivity to mine solutions for idealized living.

Gender Beyond Binary, Sidra Zubairi

Theses and Dissertations

Transgender individuals challenge the binary definition of gender accepted in Pakistani society and as a result, Pakistan’s transgender community is highly marginalized. Pakistani society regards transgender individuals as “abnormal,” because their physical appearance and behavior fail to conform with conventional expectations. Based on contextual research and interviews conducted with transgender individuals in Pakistan, my thesis explores the obstacles transgender individuals face in the course of everyday survival. My research responds to the physical realities of being transgender in Pakistani society and analyzes cultural norms associated with gender, which trigger harassment. By designing transformable apparel for these individuals, informed by primary …

The Classical Versus The Grotesque Body In Edith Wharton's Fiction, Joshua T. Temples

College of Graduate Studies: Theses & Dissertations

In her landmark works The House of Mirth (1905), The Custom of the Country (1913), and The Age of Innocence (1920), Edith Wharton responds to earlier depictions of the classical, pure Victorian and Edwardian woman. Wharton's "inconvenient" women overturn popular stereotypes. Subsequently, they are barred from their social groups, but they are independent, unlike the complicit and obedient women of the classical body, most of whom ascribe to the trope of the "Angel in the House." The grotesque seeks to undercut the unrealistic expectations enforced by the classical through its embodiment of progression and humanity, and Wharton is drawn to …

Enhancing Handbag Design Through Anti-Counterfeit Technology, Kylie R. Carroll

UROP Posters

In recent years, the presence of counterfeit goods has become a $600 billion global industry, encompassing markets ranging from designer luxury goods to pharmaceuticals. This paper identifies the threat that this increased counterfeit presence poses on the high-end handbag market. Increased counterfeit quality is significantly contributing to the deception of consumers when attempting to purchase authentic designer handbags. In response to this increased threat, numerous designer brands have begun to adopt anti-counterfeit technologies with both track-and-trace and authentication agendas, to enhance the security of their products against the counterfeit industry. Several variations of anti-counterfeit solutions exist, and this paper specifically …

Exploring Illusions Of Height In Suit Design, Michael P. Lee

Theses and Dissertations--Psychology

Objective: The goal of this research was to explore how the design of clothing, specifically the design of the suit, can create height illusions.

Background: Taller people enjoy many advantages, such as increased income and perceived attractiveness. These advantages motivate people to try to appear taller than they actually are, and clothing experts provide advice on how to accomplish this. However, there is little empirical evidence to validate the illusory effects clothing might have on overall height perception. The few studies that have explored illusions of body size created by clothing design have been limited in two important ways – …

Interpreted Fashions Of The Yoruba Tribe, Ramea Starling

Honors Theses

The visual presentation that I have created is a representation of the popular fashions of the Yoruba tribe found in Nigeria. The purpose of this fashion line that I have created is to bring culture awareness about the West African tribe to everyone who comes into contact with my line. Historically, the Yoruba Tribes culture mainly focuses on family, religion, and fashion (through their unique sense of textiles) so I really wanted to showcase this in a line. As a fashion design student at Western I also wanted to take this opportunity to display the skills that I have learned …

Embracing Bacterial Cellulose As A Catalyst For Sustainable Fashion, Luis Quijano

Senior Honors Theses

Bacterial cellulose is a leather-like material produced during the production of Kombucha as a pellicle of bacterial cellulose (SCOBY) using Kombucha SCOBY, water, sugar, and green tea. Through an examination of the bacteria that produces the cellulose pellicle of the interface of the media and the air, currently named Komagataeibacter xylinus, an investigation of the growing process of bacterial cellulose and its uses, an analysis of bacterial cellulose’s properties, and a discussion of its prospects, one can fully grasp bacterial cellulose’s potential in becoming a catalyst for sustainable fashion. By laying the groundwork for further research to be conducted …

Three Members Of Cehd Community Shine In 2018 Excellence In Diversity Awards, College Of Education And Human Development

Family and Consumer Sciences News

Western Michigan University’s Excellence in Diversity Awards Selection Committee is honoring three individuals and an organization associated with the College of Education and Human Development (CEHD): Dr. Donna Talbot, Marcy L. Peake, and Dawnielle Simmons and the Student Assembly for Racial Equity and Cultural Inclusion (SAREC).

Updating An Introductory Class On A Computer Aided Design Course As This Software Pertains To Fashion, Lynn Boorady P.H.D

Fostering Innovation in Teaching with Technology (FITT) Academy

Project Scope:

Updating an introductory class on a Computer Aided Design course as this software pertains to fashion Project Scope: To identify OER materials for FTT faculty to use in their courses and locate materials specifically for use in the introduction to Fashion technology class. Use these resources to update a beginning fashion class in computer technology.

Project goals:

Source Open Educational Resources for the faculty to use in their classes.

• Which allows students to work on independently – Microsoft Word, Excel and PPT. Also Adobe CS.
• Investigate Lynda.com - https://rite.buffalostate.edu/nypl-benefits.html

Using the objectives of the course FTT …

Developing A Technological Garment To Aid Those With Anxiety Disorder, Katherine N. Boedecker

ASA Multidisciplinary Research Symposium

The purpose of this research was to develop a technological garment for patients in behavioral health hospitals with anxiety disorder.

Precolumbian Textile Conference Vii / Jornadas De Textiles Precolombinos Vii, Lena Bjerregaard, Ann H. Peters

Zea E-Books Collection

Contents:

Introduction — Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters

Mexico

1. Mesoamerican Archaeological Textiles: An Overview of Materials, Techniques, and Contexts — Laura Filloy Nadal

2. Urdimbres enlazadas de Mesoamérica. Textil de la Cueva del Gallo, Morelos, México — Patricia Ochoa Castillo & Rosa Lorena Román Torres •

3. Los textiles procedentes del actual estado de Guerrero, México: una revisión a su estudio desde la perspectiva arqueológica y etnohistórica — Elizabeth Jiménez García

4. Classic Textiles from Cueva del Lazo (Chiapas, Mexico). Archaeological context and conservation issues — Davide Domenici & Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela

5. Textiles y otros materiales arqueológicos …

Dietetics Student Receives Research And Creative Activities Scholarship, College Of Education And Human Development

Family and Consumer Sciences News

Keren Reyes, an undergraduate dietetics student in the College of Education and Human Development at Western Michigan University, recently received a $1,725 Research and Creative Activities Scholarship from WMU’s Lee Honors College.

Print Objects And Fashion Subjects: Independent Publishing In The Contemporary Fashion Milieu Since The 1980s, Susan E. Thomas

Brooklyn Library Faculty Publications

The author documents and discusses the independent books, magazines, and print projects produced by fashion designers since the 1980s when fashion and art aligned and fashion publishing transformed. Significant collaboration among fashion designers, graphic designers, photographers, and artists developed in the 1980s and continues in the twenty-first century. Self-published zines and lookbooks, small-press photobooks, and independent magazines point away from the fashion industry and towards the febrile and conceptual world of artists’ books and magazines. Fashion designers’ practices have expanded, and book making and publishing, rooted in art and graphic design, have become significant and symbolic multidisciplinary activities within specific …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 29:2 — Fall 2017, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Letter from the Editor

Letter from the Development Committee

Letter from the President

TSA's 2018 Symposium: The Social Fabric: Deep Local to Pan Global

Textile Society of America 30th Anniversary
The Textile Society of America: Its Foundation and Early Days
Textile Society of America: A Community Endeavor and a Personal Journey

TSA News:
TSA Honors Louise Mackie and Anne Wilson
R. L. Shep Ethnic Textiles Book Award 2016 and Call for Nominations 2017
Textiles Close Up: Bloomington Blues
TSA Welcomes New Contributors
Woven Interiors: Late Antique Textiles in DC Collections

Camille Ann Brewer at the Textile Museum of America

In …

Vrai: The Culture Of Knockoff Goods In Morocco Their Social Value, Utility, And Context In Contemporary Rabat, Peter Nyberg

Independent Study Project (ISP) Collection

Fashion has long been an aspect of culture through which people identify, and it serves as a marker for class, nationality, and various other social statuses. With the continued democratization of culture via the internet and its various outlets, such as social media, fashion culture and the divide between high couture and mass-produced clothing, as noted by Bourdieu, is becoming less distinct. In the context of Rabat, Morocco, this has partially played out in the consumption of knockoff goods by the youth, a part of a larger individuation[1] process that includes a “westernization”of dress and a slow departure from …

Guide To The Nena Ivon Collection, College Archives & Special Collections

Collection Guides / Finding Aids

This guide describes the organization and scope of the Nena Ivon archival collection, housed within the College Archives & Special Collections at Columbia College Chicago. At age 17, Nena Ivon was promoted to Assistant Fashion Director of the Saks Fifth Avenue store in Chicago and later became the Director of Fashion and Special Events for forty years. She began teaching in the Fashion Studies program at Columbia College Chicago and works extensively with Fashion Columbia.

Identity Through Clothing: Argentinian Vs. American Women, Magali Farfan

Apparel Merchandising and Product Development Undergraduate Honors Theses

According to Roach-Higgins, Eicher, and Johnson (1995), “individuals acquire identity through social, physical, and biological settings” (pg.12). When acquiring identity, culture plays a vital role. Because of numerous influences on identity, a conflict exists for those who identify with more than one culture. This study focuses specifically on the problems of women who identify both as Argentinian and American. The purpose of this creative project was to create an outfit that could be worn by an Argentinian/American woman in the presence of family and friends, regardless of culture, and not feel that she is disregarding societal norms of either culture. …

Textile Terminologies From The Orient To The Mediterranean And Europe, 1000 Bc To 1000 Ad, Salvatore Gaspa, Cécile Michel, Marie-Louise Nosch

Zea E-Books Collection

The papers in this volume derive from the conference on textile terminology held in June 2014 at the University of Copenhagen. Around 50 experts from the fields of Ancient History, Indo-European Studies, Semitic Philology, Assyriology, Classical Archaeology, and Terminology from twelve different countries came together at the Centre for Textile Research, to discuss textile terminology, semantic fields of clothing and technology, loan words, and developments of textile terms in Antiquity. They exchanged ideas, research results, and presented various views and methods.

This volume contains 35 chapters, divided into five sections: • Textile terminologies across the ancient Near East and the …

Introduction To The Ethics Of Clothing And Clothing Production, Linda M. Johnston

Siegel Institute Ethics Research Scholars

Introduction to the Ethics of Clothing and Clothing Production

Garrison, Kathryn (Topmiller), 1917-2012 (Sc 3117), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

Manuscript Collection Finding Aids

Finding aid and scans (Click on "Additional Files" below) for Manuscripts Small Collection 3117. Two letters of Kathryn Garrison, Bowling Green, Kentucky, to her godchild “Betsy,” regarding hats made by Wilhelmina Howard, a Bowling Green milliner who was Betsy’s grandmother and Kathryn’s cousin.

2017 Program Booklet, Rhode Island School Of Design

Collection (annual runway show) 2007-2017

Official Collection 2017 Program distributed at the event.

Is Fast Fashion A Concern Of The Everyday Teen?, Mariah N. Cruz

Student Research Symposium

The phrase “fast fashion” refers to getting clothes at extremely low costs to keep up with the newest fashion trends. When we purchase items, we don’t put much thought into where our clothing goes after we “get rid” of them. The saying “Out of sight, out of mind” is apparent when it comes down to consumers and letting go of old clothes. Our only concern as consumers is the next big thing. The fashion industry has drastically changed over the past two decades and trends play a huge role in this push for mass production. We as a society are …

"Hippie Acid Freak Drag Queens:" Situating The Cockettes Within An Art Historical Context, Scott Dow

Theses and Dissertations

This thesis situates the Cockettes – a performance group rarely referenced in art historical discourse - within Bay Area performance art, second-wave feminist art, and the Gay Liberation Movement. Contextualizing the Cockettes within their contemporary art movements provides a new understanding of the group and emphasizes their significance to art history.

Uncontrollable Color: Street Art Meets Street Style, Laura Fidati

Renée Crown University Honors Thesis Projects - All

Uncontrollable Color: Street Art Meets Street Style is the title of my senior Capstone thesis project for the Bachelor of Fine Arts degree in Fashion Design at Syracuse University. For this project, I designed a collection of six complete outfits that explore the theme of London street art. The thesis project will be presented in a public fashion show at Syracuse University at the end of April. In this critical statement, I will explore a brief history of fashion design, fabric dyes, and street style. Chapter two explains the origins of my inspiration for the collection. The last portion of …

Eco-Cosplay: Upcycling As A Sustainable Method Of Costume Construction, Sarah West

Apparel Merchandising and Product Development Undergraduate Honors Theses

Abstract

This research addresses sustainability in the apparel industry from the specific perspective of repurposing materials for use in costume development. Repurposing discarded materials, also referred to as upcycling, is examined as a viable approach to waste management and evaluated for its impact on sustainability in apparel and textile production, especially in relation to costume development. Current issues in sustainability in the apparel industry that are a focus for this research include waste from production as well as post-consumer waste. The project includes the design and construction of two costume pieces based on a style of costume known as cosplay. …