Art and Design Commons^™

Towards Textile Narratives: A Cross-Over Perspective On Textile Imagery In Statuary, Iconography, And Literature, Leyre Morgado-Roncal, Juliane Müller, Marisa Kerbizi

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles and clothing constitute a fundamental element of our cultural past, present, and future. Therefore, they were also represented in many mediums, such as iconographic depictions and literature. Images are a source of visual and mental illustration and are often dependent on the viewer’s perspective. As a result, the representations of textiles convey social constructions and their cultural perception. Their study is the focal point of this article: The ways in which textiles and clothing are described by the imagery shown in Greek and Roman statuary and iconography, as well as in contemporary Albanian literature and mythology.

Representations illustrate the …

Young Romans: Status, Dress, And Gender, Mary Harlow, Lena Larsson Lovén

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

The demographics of the Roman world suggest that it was a world full of children. Demographers argue that in order simply to maintain population levels in a period where life expectancy was very short by modern standards, and infant mortality high, a woman should, on average, have six children, on the assumption that not all would live to adulthood. Despite much research in the last fifty years, children still remain partly invisible in the Roman world. This is primarily because they leave little evidence produced by themselves and are seen through the prism of adult eyes. Inevitably, given the nature …

Narrative And Material Tools Of Resistance: Mobilizing Textile Crafts, Heritage, And Fashion In The Context Of The Invasion Of Ukraine (2022–2023), Magali-An Berthon, Sophia Hayda, Tetiana Krupa, Yuliia Lazorenko, Marie-Louise Nosch

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

In 2022–2024, textile and fashion scholars came together to write an anthology sharing a new vision of European history as seen through textiles, in the COST Action EuroWeb. During this period, the continent was still dealing with the consequences of the COVID-19 pandemic and was then faced with Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022. Contemporary European history will be markedly defined by the ongoing war in Ukraine. One remarkable aspect of this conflict is the way textiles and dress appear daily in a variety of media outlets, mobilized as visual and semiotic means to communicate issues of war …

A Sensory Perspective On High-Ranked Women’S Dress In The 8th To 4th Century Bc In The Mediterranean And Central Europe, Karina Grömer, Susanna Harris, Audrey Gouy, Cecilie Brøns

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

In the late 20th century, the study of western science was dominated by a philosophical approach to evidence as text and meaning. In archaeology, material culture was treated like text, to be read through systems of signs, symbols, and indices put together in syntax. For studies of dress, this was influential in understanding dress as a cognitive system compiled to create identities and meaning. In this approach, textiles, fastenings, hairstyles, and gestures are presented as signs and symbols used to form a statement about identity, to be read by others. There was a focus on the visuality of dress and …

Five Quilts As Claims About Collage, Teaching, Learning & Being Together, Tim Abel

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

How can quilting and collage act as creative methods and modes of permission for understanding ways of relating in learning spaces, while also working to help make visible the interrelated nature of being together. Through the networking of personal reflection, lyric essay, theory and concrete reflections related to teaching, this presentation will take five examples of quilts (expansively defined as quilts, quilt-tops, collages, reclaimed and accumulated materials, collective/invitational works) as a way to make space for claims related to collage and pedagogy. This woven investigation helps to scaffod the learning process as a series of interconnected strands because when I …

Gny Rary Tsihy Tsy Enganay (‘We’Re Not Leaving The Mat Weaving’): Transitions Of Craft Practice In Southeast Madagascar, Sarah Emily Brown

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In Sainte Luce, southeast Madagascar, livelihoods are in a state of transition due to climate change, deforestation, shifting local economies and globalisation. Activities passed on by the ancestors are not sufficient to meet everyday needs. In 2012, embroidery was introduced by an NGO as an alternative to the ancestral process of reed-weaving due to declining reed populations. Embroiderers have now formed a 100-strong independent cooperative.

My PhD fieldwork (2017-2019) explored the multifaceted dimensions of change for these craftswomen. In addition to the practicalities of mastering a new craft, they have renegotiated collaborative working patterns, obligations to kin and ancestors, flows …

One Thread At A Time: The Role Of Textile Crafts On Well-Being In Marginalized Communities, Michelle Burton, Bianka Hausknecht, Ja-Young Hwang, Kim Hahn, Jihyun Kim-Vick

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Racial injustice and social unrest have spurred support for marginalized communities, historically excluded from mainstream society's activities. Marginalized individuals may often feel powerless and experience societal discrimination and negative stereotypes resulting in diminished well-being (WB). Consequently, finding resources to promote well being in marginalized communities is paramount. One possibility is exploring the art of textile crafts (e.g., repurposing, knitting, crocheting, and quilting) to serve as a platform for rupturing exclusionary hierarchies and oppressive frameworks, fostering empowerment and community cohesion.

In this qualitative study we conducted focus groups and individual interviews to better understand the impact on marginalized communities. Participants in …

Burning Fear, Amy Dorie

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Climate change is leading to more intense and devastating wildfires that lead to tragic loss of life and property (Cal Fire, 2018; Sinco et al., 2023) and disturbing environmental impacts (OECD, 2023). The purpose of this textile design was to create an activist design that communicates the fear and anxiety felt by those impacted by wildfires. First-hand accounts of those experiencing wildfires were researched as inspiration for the textile design. Based on the accounts, a selection of wildfire-related images were cropped in irregular shapes, placed around the canvas, and blended evoking a sense of chaos and devastation. An image of …

Caring Cloth Praxis: Ethics Of Loss, Practices Of Remembering, Suzanna James

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This research, in continual development as a part of early PhD study, is currently entitled ‘Ethics of Loss, Practices of Remembering’ and locates itself within the field of cultural sustainability. It is foregrounded by my MA thesis entitled ‘Caring Cloth’ and works in response to the words of Louise Bourgeois: ‘the needle is used to repair damage, its claim to forgiveness.’ My own socially and environmentally regenerative textiles practice considers the way in which personal practices of remembering can be developed in response to cultural sustainability.

This textiles practice develops explorative visual textile art and social textile practice research which …

23 Extinct Redwork Quilt Project: Repairing Relationships With Our More-Than-Human Kin, Stitch By Stich, Heather Kerley

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In 2021, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service proposed 23 species for delisting from the Endangered Species Act due to extinction. I would like to present my redwork quilt, Mourning Lost Kin (23 Extinct), which honors each of these species. I plan to share my process from researching and sketching each species to the embroidering of each block and the over-all construction of the quilt. But most importantly, I would love to share the stories of these species, the layers of meaning in this quilt, and the many questions it raised for me over the course of two years. …

Stitches Of Sustainability: Empowering Women And Preserving Culture Through Pakko Embroidery, Rajesh Kumar, Dharmendra Bana, Deepali Bhatnagar

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Pakko embroidery, originating from Gujarat’s Kutch district, stands as a testament to the area's rich textile tradition, marrying exceptional craftsmanship with profound cultural narratives. Currently facing the challenge of conserving its heritage while adapting to the evolving demands of the modern world, this study aims to identify pathways for cultural and economic resurgence.

Pakko embroidery, renowned for its sturdiness and the detailed cheereli saankdi stitch, finds itself at a critical crossroads, battling declining engagement and integration into modern design paradigms. Initiatives to rejuvenate interest and establish sustainable practices for artisans are deemed critical for preserving this ancient art for future …

Lambani Textiles: Oscillating Between The Past And The Present, Beena Santosh Modathi, Anjali Karolia

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper examines the experiences of home-based women zardozi artisans in Bhopal, India, who use traditional embroidery skills to create fashionable products. It highlights the role of the traditional craft sector in promoting women's empowerment, enhancing economic well-being, and supporting sustainable development in the Global South. Through ethnographic research, including literature review and interviews, the study reveals the resilience of these artisans, many of whom come from low-income backgrounds with limited education. Despite modest earnings, Textiles embody narratives, legacies, and lineages. Indian traditional textiles, particularly those featuring strong Lambani embroidery, represent a dynamic interplay of ancestral techniques, motifs, and cultural …

Public Patriotism, Silent Dissent: Women And The Making Of Senninbari In Wartime Japan, Mariko Nagai

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During the early years of the so-called “Fifteen Year War” (1931–1945), Japanese women and girls created senninbari when men received draft notices to serve. Often worn around soldiers’ waists underneath their uniforms, these sash-shaped talisman were embroidered with 1,000 red knots, each knot made by a woman. In a time when the Japanese government censored dissenting voices against its militaristic and nationalistic foreign and domestic policies, this government-encouraged gesture of stitching senninbari became one of the few ways in which women could voice their personal protests within patriarchal gender expressions (良妻賢母 “good wife, wise mother”). Senninbari’s design evolved with regional- …

Textile As Cultural Technology: The Evolution Of Robert Rauschenberg’S Jammers, 1975–6, Katya Oicherman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Robert Rauschenberg suggested that any material has a “humanitarian reportage” or a history built into it, that opens art to the “strange and unpredictable” experience only comparable to everyday reality. Developing this idea, I will focus on the Jammers, a series of works with significant textile presence produced in 1975–76, and discuss how Rauschenberg’s relationship to textiles evolved from treating them as “materials” to recognizing them as cultural technologies. In 1975 he was on a fellowship in Ahmedabad, India, a period of intense experimentation.

Textiles were already a significant presence in his art, playing a subservient role of materials …

Inconclusive Objects: Sample Making As Inquiry-Driven Practice, Etta Sandry

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In Inconclusive Objects: Sample Making as Inquiry-driven Practice I will discuss craft sample making as a valuable practice of critical thought and experimentation. Craftspeople, artists, and designers make samples to practice technical skills and to demonstrate results on small scales. It is process work, typically used to learn a new technique or a hidden step on the way to a final product. However, as a cumulative process of research, material probing, and play, sampling is a critical aspect of design and creation. What can a closer study of sampling reveal about creative practice and knowledge production in craft and beyond? …

Textile Ways Of Thinking As A Trauma-Informed Design Tool To Research And Understand Communities, Smrti Ganesan, Nishanth Srikanth

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

There has been a shift in methodologies in the broader world of design. Today, co-design and participatory methods are a vital part of the modern designer's toolkit, and designers are finding new ways to interact with communities and design solutions that are more responsive to the actual needs of those communities.

Textile design has historically been a medium for expressing and processing traumatic experiences, reflecting individual and collective traumas in society. Textiles have also historically served not only as a form of artistic expression but also as a powerful tool in activism, particularly within feminist movements. Recent developments have seen …

Solidarity Dividend With Us Wool And Community Engagement To Address Socioeconomic Inequities, Helen X. Trejo, Angela Becerril

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

As a long-standing natural fiber, wool provides an opportunity for community engagement and reflexive practice. Our process involved sourcing wool from US sheep and wool farms in lower income areas and hands-on textile development, and intersectional reflection. Being at a Hispanic Serving Institution, informed approaches to engage with concepts, such as the “zerosum paradigm” and “Solidarity Dividend” based on Heather McGhee’s NY Times Best Selling book “The Sum of Us.” It explores how racism affects intergenerational wealth among minorities. The zero-sum paradigm is the idea that progress is a tradeoff; benefits to some is at an expense for others. The …

Lavenz, Valenz, Levenxë, Lavexha, Lavenzka: Woven Felted Blankets From The Korçë Region In Southeastern Albania, Alexis Zoto

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper will look at and document colors and patterns and motifs of woven and felted blankets from the Korçë region of southeastern Albania. Very little is published on these textiles. This paper will document the disappearing and under appreciated textile, and why are they no longer understood or valued. In Albania and in Albanian diaspora communities this textile has had different names in prewar, prewar Korçare dialect and now.

I will be drawing from information gathered interviewing parishioners who volunteered to share their heirlooms and information gathered from examining the textile(s). These heirlooms belong to members of multiple generations …

Visual Narratives And Global Journeys, Sarah Laura Nesti Willard, Claudia Maria Tresso, Jolanda Guardi

CoHSS Faculty Work

No abstract provided.

Holy Body/Monstrous Body: The Life And Practices Of Saint Catherine Of Siena., Melissa B. Miller

Dance (MFA) Theses

This research examines the violent misogyny and contempt for the female body in, but not limited to, Western Christian environments using as a lens the life and practices of Catherine Benincasa, a mystic and tertiary Dominican sainted in 1461 as Saint Catherine of Siena. Further, the research looks at the use of the abject and grotesque in performance, as well as transformative storytelling, as a means of making lived experience visible, and is explored as a liberatory response to such systems of domination and violence. Though this research is framed in a religious context, contempt towards female-presenting bodies is not …

Encapsulating Scars, Ashley Smith

College of Graduate Studies: Theses & Dissertations

My work explores scars through encapsulation, a desire to enclose and express the emotional scars of memories or physical scars of the body. Life’s experiences impact the living, leaving behind scars that we feel the need to understand. Through the mediums of metal and mixed-media photography, I utilize found and created imagery, as well as a triality of text in order to preserve and remember these scars.

Describing Dictee, Seo-Young J. Chu

Publications and Research

The visual images in Dictee are famously captionless. They resist straightforward explanation. In writing image descriptions of the images in Dictee, I have tried to preserve the "captionlessness" of the original. The point here is not to explain the pictures—an image description is not identical to a caption—but to make Dictee more accessible to readers who are blind and visually impaired. I realize, of course, that in trying to make Dictee's captionless images more "legible," I have inevitably "mistranslated" Dictee as it was originally designed to be experienced. Its captionlessness is lost in translation despite my efforts to preserve it. …

The Gamechanger: Dean Santalo, Stefanie Powers, Timea Varga

LYNKD Magazine

No abstract provided.

Researcher Powerhouses!, Stefanie Powers, Timea Varga

LYNKD Magazine

Top Researchers Shine in the Communication Field

Boca Bauhaus, #Bocabauhaus

LYNKD Magazine

Revolutionizing Higher Education One Collaborative Project at a Time

Darnell Kirkwood: Marketing Maverick, Onielia Wilson

LYNKD Magazine

Alum and Hollywood Success Visits Lynn and Shares Advice

A Seasoned Artist Tells All, Andrew Saavedra

LYNKD Magazine

The Illustrator and Comic Book Artist Inspires His Students in the Classroom and Beyond

Lynkd Magazine 1, Lynn University

LYNKD Magazine

1st edition

จิตรกรรมร่วมสมัย ชุดพฤติกรรมการตกหลุมรัก, สิระ หอมจันทร์

Chulalongkorn University Theses and Dissertations (Chula ETD)

การวิจัยและสร้างสรรค์ในครั้งนี้มีวัตถุประสงค์เพื่อสร้างงานจิตรกรรมที่เกิดจากการพิจารณาแรงบันดาลใจส่วนตัว ผ่านการค้นคว้าข้อมูล ทบทวนวรรณกรรมและพัฒนาเป็นงานศิลปะ เพื่อเข้าใจเหตุผลการตกหลุมรัก ซึ่งเป็นพื้นฐานในบริบทชีวิตประจำวัน โดยงานวิจัยนี้ได้ศึกษาค้นคว้าข้อมูลภาคเอกสาร การศึกษาผลงานศิลปิน และพัฒนาเป็นงานสร้างสรรค์ ที่มีการสอดแทรกและเชื่อมโยงแนวความคิด รูปแบบ รูปทรง ความหมายทางสี สัญลักษณ์ และสัญญะในงานทัศนศิลป์ นอกจากนี้งานในวิจัยได้นำทฤษฎีด้านความรัก ทฤษฎีจิตวิทยา ทฤษฎีวิทยาศาสตร์ และ ด้านศิลปะ มาใช้การในการศึกษา ผลของการศึกษาข้อมูลและทดลองสร้างสรรค์สรุปได้ว่าการตกหลุมรักจะเกิดขึ้นจาก การรับรู้ แบ่งได้เป็น 2 ประเภท ได้แก่ 1) การรับรู้ทางกายภาพ คือ สายตา ที่เป็นอวัยวะอันสำคัญที่สุด เพราะการมองเห็นทำให้ อาจนำไปสู่ความชอบ และ เกิดการตกหลุมรัก 2) การรับรู้ทางอารมณ์ คือ ความรู้สึกที่สนองตอบรับให้เกิดอารมณ์ภายใต้ความคิด ทั้งนี้ แนวทางการสร้างสรรค์ผลงานจิตกรรม ที่ผู้วิจัยสนใจนำเสนอ จึงมีลักษณะรูปแบบของ ศิลปะลัทธิจุลนิยม (Minimalism) ที่ สามารถเข้าใจได้ง่าย ไม่ซับซ้อนในเชิงองค์ประกอบ แต่มีการตีความหมายจากสัญลักษณ์ และความสนใจชุดสีของ ลัทธิประชานิยม (Pop Art) ที่มีสีสันสดใส ตีความหมายเหตุผลผ่านงานจิตรกรรม เกิดเป็นชุดผลงานจิตรกรรม 4 ชุด ได้แก่ 1) ระยะที่ 1 เน้นการใช้วัสดุ 2) ระยะที่ 2 เน้นการวาดข้าวของเครื่องใช้ในชีวิตประจำวัน 3) ระยะที่ 3 เน้นการใช้สีเปรียบเทียบความรู้สึก 4) ระยะที่ 4 ศิลปะนิพนธ์ เน้นการใช้สีชมพูและการใช้รูปทรงหัวใจ ซึ่งในผลงานชุดที่ 4 สามารถตอบโจทย์ได้ดีที่สุด เมื่อเทียบกับ 3 ระยะก่อนหน้า

จิตรกรรมร่วมสมัยชุดเมื่อฉันกำลังก้าวให้พ้น, วิภาวี ภมรพล

Chulalongkorn University Theses and Dissertations (Chula ETD)

ในยุคปัจจุบัน ผู้คนจำนวนมากต้องเผชิญกับภาวะความเครียดและปัญหาทางจิตใจที่เกิดจากปัจจัยภายนอก เช่น สภาพสังคม เศรษฐกิจ การเมือง และสิ่งแวดล้อมที่เปลี่ยนแปลงอย่างรวดเร็ว ส่งผลให้โรคทางจิตเวชกลายเป็นเรื่องปกติในสังคมสมัยใหม่ อย่างไรก็ตาม มีเพียงไม่กี่คนที่หันกลับมาทบทวนและเข้าใจสภาวะทางจิตใจของตนเองอย่างลึกซึ้ง ข้าพเจ้าตระหนักถึงความสำคัญของการรับรู้ตนเอง จึงนำกระบวนการทางศิลปะมาใช้เป็นเครื่องมือสำรวจภายในจิตใจ ซึ่งสะท้อนออกมาในรูปแบบของ “ศิลปะบำบัด” วิทยานิพนธ์ชุดนี้มีชื่อว่า “จิตรกรรมร่วมสมัยชุด เมื่อฉันกำลังก้าวให้พ้น” มุ่งเน้นการสร้างสรรค์ผลงานที่เกิดจากการกลั่นกรองความคิดและอารมณ์จากส่วนลึกของจิตใจผ่านการทำงานศิลปะ โดยกระบวนการสร้างสรรค์นี้เปิดโอกาสให้ข้าพเจ้าได้เผชิญหน้าและทำความเข้าใจกับความรู้สึกที่ซ่อนอยู่ในจิตใต้สำนึก อันมีอิทธิพลต่อพฤติกรรมและบุคลิกภาพของตนเอง อ้างอิงตามทฤษฎีของ ซิกมุนด์ ฟรอยด์ เกี่ยวกับโครงสร้างของจิตใจ ได้แก่ จิตสำนึก จิตก่อนสำนึก และจิตไร้สำนึก และแนวคิดของ คาร์ล จุง ที่กล่าวถึงความสัมพันธ์ระหว่างจิตใต้สำนึกกับบุคลิกภาพแบบเก็บตัว (Introvert) และแสดงออก (Extrovert) ซึ่งถูกหล่อหลอมโดยประสบการณ์และสิ่งแวดล้อม ผลงานที่ได้จึงไม่ได้เป็นเพียงการแสดงออกทางศิลปะในเชิงรูปธรรม แต่เป็นกระบวนการเยียวยา สำรวจตนเอง และเชื่อมโยงระหว่างโลกภายในกับโลกภายนอกของศิลปิน ผ่านแนวทางของศิลปะในลัทธิเซอร์เรียลลิสม์ (Surrealism) ซึ่งเปิดพื้นที่ให้จิตใต้สำนึกได้เผยตัวตนออกมาอย่างอิสระ ด้วยภาษาทางทัศนศิลป์ที่สามารถสื่อสารสิ่งที่คำพูดไม่อาจอธิบายได้