Race, Ethnicity and Post-Colonial Studies Commons^™

“Muy Curiosa Y Muy Diestra”: Bobbin Lace Making In Eighteenth-Century Mexico, Elena Kanagy-Loux

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although bobbin lace was introduced in Mexico through colonization, its local styling—both through making and end use—was by no means a facsimile of its Spanish origins. The appreciation for this “curious and skilled” trimming grew from a long Indigenous history of valuing skilled textile production in the Americas, and lace was quickly interpreted in new ways. Grounded in extant 18th-century objects such as metallic bobbin lace fragments and colchas (or coverlets) with polychrome wool bobbin lace edgings, this project poses the question: what untold stories of the lives of women and girls can these objects reveal? And can this method …

Speculative Futures With Southern California Fibershed, Lesley Roberts

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Regenerative agriculture disruptor Fibershed embraces and gives voice to the fullness of textile paradigms, economies, societies, ecologies, and skill traditions, seeks to address and rectify the sins and the promises of textile making and textile futures, and promotes healthy, holistic wellbeing. Fibershed is a movement of farmers, fashion activists, and makers growing a new textile economy. Founded in 2012 in a bioregion in Northern California, the community has grown to more than 75 chapters worldwide. Fibershed touts a soil-to-soil paradigm that asks us to consider the entire lifecycle of our textiles. It proposes a climate beneficial, regenerative system whose scope …

Threads Of Tradition: Unraveling The Shifting Semiotics Of Phulkari Embroidery From Past To Present, Gurvinder Kaur Gundev, Anjali Karolia

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This research paper examines intricate Phulkari embroidery, originating from the culturally rich region of Punjab, traces its historical roots and examines the evolving semiotics of this vibrant craft. The study commences with an exploration of the language embedded in Phulkari during its inception, analysing the symbolic meanings stitched into the intricate patterns and vibrant colours. Through a meticulous examination of archival materials, oral histories, and traditional artifacts, the research uncovers the nuanced cultural narratives expressed through Phulkari, serving as a communicative art form that transcends language barriers and articulates the wearer's identity, beliefs, and aspirations. A pivotal juncture in Phulkari's …

Repatriation And Conservation, Sandra Sardjono, Kristal Hale, Christopher Buckley, Saiful Bakhri, Absari Hanifah

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textile represents one of the most important cultural heritages in Indonesia and is an integral part of social and religious lives of traditional communities. Due to colonial impact, shifts in indigenous belief systems and values, modernization, and tourism, many textiles have left their original environments. Many gained new contexts as museum objects housed in regional museums or private collections in Indonesia and abroad.

In Indonesian museums, these objects are cared for by museum staff with various backgrounds and levels of expertise, who are shifted to new positions every two-three years by the Indonesian Ministry. This methodology is intended as a …

The Petticoat: Details Of A Forgotten Garment In Mexico City (1900–1910), Nallely Rangel Vázquez

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During Porfirian government, Mexican society experienced a flourishing of the textile industry driven by state policies that encouraged both the rise of the national industry and foreign investment. This process was perceived from the daily life of the capital, through the windows of silk shops, shoe shops, warehouses and, above all, the imposing department store El Palacio de Hierro. One of the garments that was designed to fit at the waist and cover the legs was the petticoat, which was assumed to be a piece of female underwear. In this article, I am interested in unravelling details findings about this …

La Representación De Los Seres Voladores En Tejidos Ceremoniales Tiwanaku, Elisa Cont

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Este estudio iconográfico e iconológico se propone analizar la representación de una particular tipología de seres antropo-zoomorfos en la cultura Tiwanaku mediante una investigación transdisciplinaria, que incluye estudios de arqueología, antropología, semiótica y estética. Algunos seres antropo-zoomorfos con atributos de aves, felinos, cérvidos y llamas estarían representados flotando en sentido horizontal, y simbolizarían el chamán en su estado de trance, realizando su viaje mágico, a través del consumo de unas substancias psicoactivas. Los artistas tiwanakotas por medio de las imágenes de “seres voladores” reflejarían unos principios acerca de su cosmovisión, y revelarían el rol fundamental que algunas experiencias mágicos-religiosas ejercían …

Las Tapicerías Del Sitio Topater En El Contexto De Los Textiles Del Formativo Medio (500 A.C.-100 D.C.) En Atacama, Soledad Hoces De La Guardia Chellew, Ana María T. Rojas Zepeda

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

El presente trabajo expone un conjunto excepcional de piezas en técnica de tapicería encontrados en el cementerio de Topater, cercano al rio Loa, ubicado en el desierto de Atacama, Norte de Chile. Estos tejidos, objeto de investigaciones previas (Agüero 2000; Cases 2000; Sinclaire 2001), en conjunto con los anillados y los textiles con afelpados de mecha, constituyen la base de caracterización técnica del sitio. Las nuevas condiciones de almacenaje y reciente procesamiento de este material han permitido abarcar la totalidad de los textiles en tapicería, profundizando un estudio técnico estructural y de sistemas de representación asociados para desde allí replantear …

Proceso De Retejido, Por Medio De Cordeles De Papel Japonés, En Una Bolsa Procedente De La Cueva De La Candelaria, Torreón, Coahuila, México, Miriam Elizabeth Castro Rodríguez, Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela, Orlando Martínez Zapata

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

La Cueva de la Candelaria, es una cueva mortuoria fechada entre el 1100 y 1300 d.C. (Aveleyra 2010) dónde se depositaron los cuerpos de grupos de cazadores recolectores junto con los bienes que les habían pertenecido en vida. Gracias a sus condiciones de cueva seca se lograron conservar y rescatar una gran variedad de artefactos elaborados con fibras semiduras de agavaceas como son los objetos de cordelería (redes, bolsas, cuerdas). Debido al deterioro natural de las fibras y los generados durante el contexto de enterramiento como son los lixiviados de los cuerpos, desarrollo de microorganismos, acciones de insectos y animales …

Textiles Y Plumas. Documentación Y Conservación De La Colección Etnográfica Del Museo De Farmacobotánica Juan A. Domínguez, Facultad De Farmacia Y Bioquímica De La Universidad De Buenos Aires (Argentina), Silvana Di Lorenzo, Lucila Pesoa, Cecilia Pérez De Micou, María Del Carmen Toribio

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

El museo de Fármacobotánica “Juan A. Domínguez” preserva una interesante colección etnográfica de textiles y plumaria procedente de varias regiones de Argentina, Bolivia y Paraguay. En este trabajo presentamos el estado de avance de la investigación, documentación y conservación preventiva en referencia al patrimonio recolectado en la región del Gran Chaco. Mediante este proyecto independiente de investigación y conservación nuestro objetivo es dar a conocer esta colección inédita para preservarla, ponerla en valor y propender a su visualización.

The “Juan A. Domínguez” Pharmacobotanical Museum preserves an interesting ethnographic collection of textiles and feathers form various regions of Argentina, Bolivia and …

Kuna Shirts From Panama In Brussels’ Art And History Museum, Anne-Françoise Martin

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

The Kuna live in the San Blas Archipelago off the coast of Panama. Kuna women make cotton shirts (mola/molakana) using the reverse appliqué technique. They start by superimposing several thin layers of very colourful fabric. A subtle positioning of cuts brings out the colours of the lower layers and creates patterns. Kuna women are inspired by plants and animals in the nature that surrounds them when creating these patterns. They also draw on a repertoire of patterns from everyday objects. These shirts, sewn with pride and a great deal of humour, can tell us a lot about Kuna society. They …

El Traje Ceremonial De Los Samilantes, Olga Liliana Sulca, Enrique Oscar Cifre Kargachin

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

En la Puna salto jujeña (extremo noroeste de Argentina), se celebran todos los años una serie de festividades que vinculan la tradición católica con una serie de rituales, cuyos orígenes tienen profundas raíces prehispánicas. En estas celebraciones se entrelazan música, atuendos, danzas y ceremonias. Una de esas expresiones sincréticas es la denominada Danza del Suri. Sus participantes, también llamados samilantes o “plumudos” se destacan por el uso de un particular atavío, cuya finalidad tiene como objetivo encarnar el aspecto y la conducta del suri o ñandú cordillerano (ave no voladora) que se extiende por el área cordillerana desde el altiplano …

El Horizonte Medio En Huacas De Moche: Naturaleza De La Ocupación Post-Mochica En Huaca Del Sol (C. 800-1000 D.C.), Lizbeth Pariona, Carlos Rengifo, Moisés Tufinio

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Este artículo presenta los resultados del análisis estilístico y de técnicas de manufactura de un grupo de textiles recuperados en contextos funerarios correspondientes a la segunda mitad del Horizonte Medio (800-1000 d.C.) excavados en el edificio conocido como Huaca del Sol, en el sitio Huacas de Moche de la costa peruana. Estos materiales orgánicos presentan características que permiten la identificación de rasgos del estilo Mochica local junto con estilos foráneos, lo que ayuda a una mejor comprensión de las interacciones culturales en el sitio durante este singular periodo. Los resultados de este estudio brindan, además, nuevos detalles sobre las características …

Portada E Información Editorial / Frontmatter And Editorial Information

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Covers - Cubiertas; Contents - Contenido; Programme – Programa; Asociaciones Sponsors; Words from Director – Palabras de la directora ▪ Marina Pugliese; Preface – Prólogo ▪ Carolina Orsini, Federica Villa ; Photos from the workshop - Fotos del taller; Links to recorded sessions online @ Youtube - Enlaces a sesiones grabadas en línea @ Youtube

Textiles De La Cultura Nasca Del Proyecto Arqueológico Nasca-Palpa Al Sur Del Perú, Daniela Biermann

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Los textiles excavados por el proyecto arqueológico Nasca-Palpa en el Departamento de Ica provienen de dos asentamientos y un sitio sagrado cerca de la ciudad moderna de Palpa. En base a los datos arqueológicos se clasifican los textiles en varios rasgos de la cultura Nasca (200 aC – 650 d.C.): Los asentamientos fueron habitados permanentemente durante un largo período y, además, periódicamente, fueron utilizados como cementerios. Los hallazgos textiles son de tumbas de diferentes periodos, formas y sectores de los asentamientos. Paralelamente se trata por primera vez de textiles de capas compactas de áreas habitadas y además de todas las …

Knot Anomalies On Inka Khipus: Revising Locke’S Knot Typology, Sabine Hyland

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

In 2007, in the IV Actas de las Jornadas Internacionales sobre Textiles Precolombinos, Kylie Quave noted the existence of various structural anomalies in khipus presumed to date to the Late Horizon. These anomalies included the use of non-cotton vegetal fibres, the inclusion of single red strings, subsidiary cords that are plied through rather than half hitched, and the placement of long knots and figure-8 knots “in a way that precludes a numerical reading”. Since Quave’s article, there has been little examination of such anomalies, nor have scholars known whether such anomalies were to be found in khipus that had …

Estudio De Un Grupo De Chuspas De La Huaca Malena, Lourdes Chocano Mena

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

El presente trabajo es la investigación de un grupo de chuspas provenientes del cementerio de la Huaca Malena. El objetivo fue analizar técnicamente aspectos de su elaboración e iconografía descubriendo así las características comunes que compartían, como los rasgos diferentes entre ellas. A simple vista este conjunto de chuspas puede parecer muy heterogéneo, sin embargo, existen algunos elementos que se comparten transversalmente, por ejemplo: la fibra, los colores y el ligamento textil, sin embargo, hay otros elementos diferentes creando sub tipos dentro del conjunto, por ejemplo: la forma, las dimensiones, la rotación de las urdimbres y los acabados. El proceso …

Festones En Pequeñas Vestimentas De Enterratorios De Altura (Capacocha), Verónica Cereceda Bianchi

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Los festones son bordados exteriores que se incorporan en prendas ya terminadas en un telar. En el presente texto intentamos un análisis de este tipo de terminaciones que circundaba las vestimentas de pequeñas estatuitas en esos importantes rituales de sacrificios infantiles que son las capacocha. Por la cantidad de reglas que implicaba su elaboración, tanto en lo que se refiere a su ubicación como en la sintaxis de su organización cromática, es posible considerarlos como verdaderos códigos que cumplían sus mensajes de comunicación y sus posibles poderes rituales, a partir de angostas listas de diferentes colores, sin necesidad de utilizar …

From The Inside Out: Excavating The Performing Arts Society Of Los Angeles, Wilfred Joseph Doucet Iii

CGU Theses & Dissertations

This work examines the Performing Arts Society of Los Angeles (PASLA), one of several cultural arts responses to the 1965 Watts Rebellion. Fundamentally, this work seeks to restore to memory and discourse the work of the Performing Arts Society of Los Angeles, its founder Motojicho Vantile Whitfield, and the PASLA Community Players. The Performing Arts Society of Los Angeles demonstrated a dynamic praxis in the South Central Los Angeles community, expressed through the organization’s motto, “social growth through the performing arts.” The Performing Arts Society of Los Angeles offered workshops in the literary, performance and technical aspects of drama and …

Black Lgbtq+ Students’ Perceptions Of Belonging: Resource Centers, Relationships, And Intersectionality On College Campuses, Wesley M. Cox

CGU Theses & Dissertations

This dissertation takes a non-traditional approach to qualitative research. Kikimethodology focuses on the lives and perspectives of Black Queer and Transgender college students. This dissertation shows how these collegians navigate identity politics, resource centers, and seek out belonging on their campus. The findings hone in on four broader themes: (a) relationships with peers; (b) relationships with faculty/staff; (c) campus environment; and (d) intersectionality. This dissertation is about Black Queer and Transgender advocacy, knowledge, leadership, life and expression in context with college campuses. The results of this research center on the students’ navigation of campus, agency, family, programming, student leadership, and …

The Influence Of Religion In Frantz Fanon’S Decolonial Theory And Ethics On Violence, Dorival Pimenta Do Nascimento

CGU Theses & Dissertations

How does religious language influence Frantz Fanon’s Decolonial theory and ethics onviolence in the struggle for decolonization and disalienation? This is the question I address in this dissertation carefully observing Patrick Crowley's mention of the presence of religious language in Fanon's work. Crowley’s argument is that Fanon’s thought is apocalyptical in structure and is marked by a dramatic sense of temporality prior to his arrival in Algeria. Crowley develops his article focusing on the messianic question, while the religious language in Fanon's work he ends up relegating to a second plan. In this sense, this dissertation is developed with the …

From Classroom To Community: Cultivating Critical Consciousness In K-12 Ethnic Studies For Civic And Community Engagement, Edward Flores

CGU Theses & Dissertations

The institutionalization of K-12 Ethnic Studies in California Public Schools is the culmination of decades of grassroots community organizing to address inequities between students of color and their advantaged peers. Empirical evidence suggests that K-12 Ethnic Studies courses have positive academic and social outcomes for historically marginalized students, yet limited research documents the pedagogical practices that occur in these courses to develop students' critical consciousness and academic achievement tied to civic and community engagement. Mainstream curricula continue to perpetuate race-neutral pedagogy that does not acknowledge the racialized experiences of students from culturally and linguistically diverse backgrounds, making it necessary to …

The High Maintenance Black Girl: Black Female College Students’ Experiences With Intraracial Stereotypes, Alexis Thrower

CGU Theses & Dissertations

While existing literature has extensively documented interracial stereotypes faced by Black individuals, this study delved into the lesser-explored realm of stereotypes emanating from within the Black community itself. This dissertation explored the experiences of Black female college students in predominantly white educational environments, focusing on the pervasive influence of intraracial stereotypes. Grounded in phenomenological inquiry and guided by Black Feminist Critique, the research investigated the impact of these intraracial stereotypes on relationships, sense of belonging, and coping strategies among Black female college students. Four research questions guided this dissertation: What are the intraracial stereotypes experienced by Black female college students? …

Treading Our Path Through The Blood Of The Slaughtered: Race And Martyrdom In America, 1830-1968, Katherine J. Veach

CGU Theses & Dissertations

The United States has a longstanding practice of ascribing the language and imagery of martyrdom to political and cultural figures, resulting in a variegated canon of American martyrs outside the strict bounds of religious tradition. As a contribution to religious studies, American studies and African American studies, this dissertation identifies and examines the language, imagery and trajectory of the strain of American cultural martyrdom I term “Black American martyrdom.” I trace the genealogy of Black American martyrdom from the 1830s, when martyrdom rhetoric flourished among the zealous Northeastern immediate abolitionists, to the 1960s, when Martin Luther King, Jr. influentially cast …

Melissa Brown Collection Of "A Loud Absence" Project Materials, Zach S. Henderson Library, Special Collections

Finding Aids

This collection consists of photographs and digital files created by artist Melissa Brown as part of her project, titled "A Loud Absence." According to the artist, the project sought to discover what happens to a space after great injustice has been committed in it. The project examines whether a community's choice of what to do with such an area reflects healing or reveals that they have not moved forward from their past.

Maka: Distribuzione E Circolazione Di Un Film Indipendente, Simone Brioni Dr.

Department of English Faculty Publications

The distribution and circulation of independent films are fundamental but often neglected aspects in film studies. This article presents a distribution experience followed by the author of the text himself: the case of the independent documentary Maka. Produced thanks to an academic grant and the collaboration with two Italian production companies, Maka was screened at numerous international festivals and received several awards. Distribution involved both traditional cinema circuits and independent digital platforms. The film has been screened in academic and associative contexts, in Italy and the United States, encouraging debates on social and cultural issues. The participation of the protagonist, …

The Network For Autonomy: Development Of Early Black Voluntary Associations And The Progress Of The Black Community, Marc T. Williams

History Theses - Archive

This thesis centers around and attempts to answer the question: between the Revolutionary era and the beginning of the Civil War, how did some of the earliest local Black benevolent communities develop themselves over the course of their lifetime? Three Black benevolent societies established during the late eighteenth to mid nineteenth century period will be analyzed — the Free African Union Society of Newport and Providence Rhode Island, the Free African Society of Philadelphia and the New York African Society for Mutual Relief in Manhattan — to assist in answering this question. It follows the commonly held idea scholars have …

How To Wear A Queen’S Crown ; From Slavery (17th Century) To 1990s, Ka-Mya Frye

ASPIRE 2024

There are six hairstyles I chose to feature in this project that embody a story with culture to be told about the hardships African American women in the US have faced up until almost the present day. I believe it will be a fun learning experience, not only for me but other African American women, potentially looking for some cultural hairstyles and learning about their “crown’s” history. A couple of styles that stood out from the age of slavery to the 1990s were cornrows, dreads, Bantu/Zulu knots, and the afro. I will discuss the history of these styles along with …

Historical Reappearance: Tracing The Impacts Of Argentina's Los Desaparecidos To The Rise Of President Javier Milei, Analise Sofia Chain

Undergraduate Honors Theses

In 1976 the Argentine government was taken over by a right wing military junta, attempting to “save” their country from communism. Military officials kidnapped, tortured and killed between 10,000 and 30,000 Argentine citizens, who were thought of as “guerrillas” supporting the leftist government and the late president Juan Perón. These victims are regarded as the disappeared, or Los Desaparecidos; due to the fact their families had no knowledge of where their loved ones were taken, or what was happening to them. Many of these young, liberal advocates were never seen or heard from again, their remains lost to history, and …

You Are What You Eat: Social Media's Influence On Health And Beauty Practices For Young Latinx Women, Anaís Martínez Castañeda

Scripps Senior Theses

This thesis delves into the experiences of young Latinx women, exploring how they internalize societal messages propagated through social media that equate whiteness with wellness and beauty standards. Conversations with young LatinX women reveal that performances of whiteness intertwine with dietary practices and notions of thinness, influencing their perceptions and behaviors. This internalization leads to harmful tendencies of body surveillance and diet restriction in an attempt to conform to dominant social media norms. Furthermore, this messaging can result in the rejection of ethnic foods and adversely impact their overall well-being. However, amidst these challenges, participants reevaluated their internalized beliefs and …

Looking At The Past To Change The Future: Showcasing Featured Collections, Building Communities, And Co-Creating, Sherry Buchanan

Humboldt Journal of Social Relations

Academic libraries have the opportunity and the responsibility to promote and advance content that creates transformative and iterative learning opportunities. To that end, and in an effort to build communities and facilitate co-creation, Portland State University showcases three main Featured Collections in our open access repository, PDXScholar: Climate Justice, COVID-19, and Racial and Gender Equity, with a fourth pilot collection—Student Work: An Open Showcase of Outstanding Student-Created Research & Creative Work—under development. The collections include a broad range of audiovisual materials, such as podcasts and webinar series, as well as sustainability and equity work, student-created content, and numerous future-focused multidisciplinary …