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Textile Society Of America Newsletter 8:19 – Summer 1995, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Introducing…The Textile and Costume Collections at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
Board of Directors
Letter from the President
Info-Xchange
Regional Activities East
Acknowledgment
Letter from the Editor
New Newsletter Editor
Announcements
Symposia/Conferences/Seminars/Workshops
Classes/Lectures/Workshops
Exhibitions – Past, Present, and Future

Female Millworkers And The Mechanization Of Textile Production: The Boston Manufacturing Company Of Waltham, Massachusetts, 1813 To 1822, Lois Bayer Gonzales

American Studies ETDs

When the Boston Manufacturing Company of Waltham, Massachusetts developed mechanized cotton textile production between 1850 and 1821, female millworkers had the opportunity to gain mechanical expertise and utilize it to overcome low wages and subordination. Since management systematically used the two mills to test new machine designs, female operatives played an important role in evaluating and improving industrial technology.

This study follows the development of machinery and women's careers as revealed in the company's surviving payroll ledgers. To identify the social characteristics of the work force, the majority of the 616 millworkers employed between 1817 to 1822 were traced to …

Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 44, No. 3, Diane Sidener Young, Anne W. Goda, Susan Kalcik, Woodward S. Bousquet, Monica Mutzbauer

Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine

• Conservation and Mediation in the Folk and Traditional Arts of Pennsylvania
• Isaac and Thomas Stahl, the Revival Potters of Powder Valley
• The Folk Art of Decorated Eggs
• Jim Popso and His Coal Country Folk Art
• Leaving the Old World for the New: Rules Governing Emigration from Landau in the Palatinate

Blanket Statements, Issue 40, Spring 1995

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 40, Spring 1995

Blanket Statements, Issue 43, Winter 1995

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 43, Winter 1995

Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 44, No. 2, Susan Kalcik, June Granatir Alexander, M. Mark Stolarik, Corinne Earnest, Klaus Stopp, Jobie E. Riley

Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine

• Fortune's Stepchildren: Slovaks in Pennsylvania
• Slovak Churches: Religious Diversity and Ethnic Communities
• Slovak Fraternal-Benefit Societies in Pennsylvania
• Early Fraktur Referring to Birth and Baptism in Pennsylvania: A Taufpatenbrief from Berks County for a Child Born in 1751
• The Solitary Sisters of Saron

1995 The Analysis, Michele Ruda

Philadelphia University Yearbooks

No abstract provided.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 7:18 – Winter 1995, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Introducing…The Smithsonian Institution’s Division of Textiles Collection
Profile: Rita J. Adrosko
Board of Directors
Letter from the Editor
Info-Xchange
Boston Textile Department Restructured
Recent Acquisitions at Cleveland and Indianapolis
Announcements
Symposia/Conferences/Seminars/Workshops
Classes/Lectures/Workshops
Exhibitions – Past, Present, and Future

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 16 (1995), Virginia Gunn, Kathryn W. Berenson, Ricky Clark, Naida Treadway Patterson, Merikay Waldvogel, Xenia E. Cord, Marlene O'Bryant-Seabrook, Carol Williams Gebel, Judy Elsley

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Virginia Gunn

Research Papers

Origins and Traditions of Marseilles Needlework by Kathryn W. Berenson

Ruth Finley and the Colonial Revival Era by Ricky Clark

Marion Cheever Whiteside Newton: Designer of Story Book Quilts, 1940-1965 by Naida Treadway Patterson

The Origin of Mountain Mist Patterns by Merikay Waldvogel

Marketing Quilt Kits in the 1920s and 1930s by Xenia E. Cord

Symbiotic Stitches: The Quilts of Maggie McFarland Gillispie and John Gillispie, Jr. by Marlene O'Bryant-Seabrook

Quilts in the Final Rite of Passage: A Multicultural Study by Carol Williams Gebel

Making Critical Connections in Quilt Scholarship by Judy Eisley

Authors …

Blanket Statements, Issue 38, Fall 1994

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 38, Fall 1994

Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 44, No. 1, Charles L. Blockson, Roland C. Barksdale-Hall, Jerrilyn Mcgregory, Terry G. Jordan

Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine

• "A Missing Link": The History of African Americans in Pennsylvania
• The Twin City Elks Lodge: A Unifying Force in Farrell's African American Community
• The Greening of Philadelphia
• The "Saddlebag" House Type and Pennsylvania Extended

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 6:17 – Fall 1994, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Our New President: Mattiebelle Gittinger
Expanding TSA Membership Goals
Board of Directors
Letter from the President
Symposium Highlights
Special Interest Group Meetings in Los Angeles
Letter from the Editor
Announcements
Calls for Papers
Electronic Communication
National Museum of the American Indian
Pacific Textile Arts
The Medieval Dress and Textile Society
Complex Weavers
Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science
Positions Available
Study Tour to Morocco
Travel
Study Tour to Japan
Weaving Tour of Bolivia
Lectures/Symposia/Conferences/Seminars
Exhibitions- Past, Present, and Future

Blanket Statements, Issue 37, Summer 1994

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 37, Summer 1994

Blanket Statements, Issue 36, Spring 1994

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 36, Spring 1994

Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 43, No. 3, Thomas E. Gallagher Jr., Elaine Mercer, Kenneth E. Kopecky, Eric O. Hoiberg, Gertrude E. Huntington, Marilyn E. Lehman, Samuel S. Stoltzfus, William B. Fetterman, Bernadette L. Hutchison, John W. Friesen

Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine

• The Old Order Amish
• Amish Quilts: Creativity Supported by Rules and Traditions
• Conflict: A Mainspring of Amish Society
• Occupational Opportunities for Old Order Amish Women
• The Amish Taboo on Photography: Its Historical and Social Significance
• Our Changing Amish Church District
• Images of the Amish on Stage and Film
• Amish Gardens: A Symbol of Identity
• The Myth of the Ideal Folk Society Versus the Reality of Amish Life

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 6 – Spring 1994, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

TSA’s Fall Symposium
Letter from the President
1994 Nominees Approved by the Board
In Memoriam
Letter from the Editor
Lillian Elliott: A Profile
Joanne Segal Brandford: A Profile
Announcements
Calls for Papers
Memorial Fund Established
Symposia/Conferences/Seminars – Past/Present/Future
The Eastern Region’s Late Spring Tour of the Renwick Gallery’s Exhibition of Contemporary Navajo Weaving
TSA Bibliography Announced

Ornament And Islamic Art, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Review of: The Mediation of Ornament, by OLEG GRABAR & Problems of Style: Foundations for a History of Ornament, by ALOIS RIEGL.

TWO MAJOR WORKS addressing the nature of art, published in the same year but written a century apart, are each based, in part, upon analyses of Islamic monuments. Both derive from series of lectures on the history of ornament, and each offers a perspective explicitly countering the author's own intellectual milieu in the study of art focused on Western tradition.

Problems of Style is an impressive translation of Stilfragen, a broadly-based and wide-ranging inquiry by Alois …

Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 43, No. 2, Susan Kalcik, Hilda Adam Kring, Regina Bendix, Mindy Brandt, Thomas E. Gallagher Jr., Patricia Irvin Cooper, John I. Schwarz Jr., Willard Wetzel

Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine

• The America's Industrial Heritage Project: A Model for Cultural Tourism
• The Harmonists are Waiting for You
• The Quest for Authenticity in Tourism and Folklife Studies
• Tourism and the Old Order Amish
• The Log Cabin: Notes on its Structure and Dissemination
• On the Making of Die Union Choral Harmonie (1833): Evidence from Henry C. Eyer's Working Papers
• In Memoriam: Paul R. Wieand, a True Artist

Preface - Contact, Crossover, Continuity - 1994, Louise W. Mackie, Patricia R. Anawalt

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Inc., was hosted by the Fowler Museum of Cultural History, University of California, Los Angeles, California, September 22–24, 1994. The papers addressed a broad theme which was chosen in order to accommodate the diverse interests of members. The proceedings contains the thirty papers and two abstracts of papers presented at the symposium, plus a video script, and a list of the two hundred and forty participants.

Contact, Crossover, Continuity highlights the causes and effects of change on textiles around the world. The proceedings provides an opportunity to identify and evaluate …

Table Of Contents - Contact, Crossover, Continuity - 1994

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Table of contents from Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings of the Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, September 22–24, 1994

What’S In A Name: The Domestication Of Factory Produced Wax Textiles In Cote D’Ivoire, Kathleen E. Bickford

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In a frequently evoked passage from Romeo and Juliet, William Shakespeare asks "What's in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet." Yet, as Romeo and Juliet tragically come to learn, human beings make much of names. Indeed, one's name is a significant part of one's social persona; it can describe who we are, it can join us and separate us from others, and it can link us to the past. In a sense, when we are named we are given an identity. Describing the complexities of naming for the Wamakua …

Continuity Of Culture: A Reenactor’S Goal, Elizabeth Mcclure

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper examines the maintenance of cultural continuity through historical reenactment. It is the reenactor's goal, in this case, to portray and maintain the culture of Ireland and Scotland. They are holding on to this culture and presenting it to others by maintaining the dress, crafts, and lifestyles of sixteenth-century Scotland and Ireland.

The methods of data collection for this study were ethnographic in nature. Interviews with key informants were conducted. In addition, there was a questionnaire distributed to members of the group This method of data collection provided the insight to see how a member of this group achieved …

Green Labels With Golden Elephants: Western European Printed Cottons For Malaysia And Indonesia, Frieda Sorber

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the second half of the 19th century, several Belgian cotton printing firms were involved in the production of imitations of African and Southeast Asian textiles for markets in West-Africa, the Dutch East Indies, and Malaysia. Extensive records of one firm, the Societe Anonyme Texas, owned by the Voortman family in Ghent, have been preserved in the Ghent public records office and the Vrieselhof Textile Museum (Oelegem, near Antwerp). Frans de Vos and Abraham Voortman started a cotton printing establishment in Ghent in 1790. At that time cotton printing was a relatively new type of enterprise in Flanders. The first …

Bolong-Bolong And Tirtanadi: An Unknown Group Of Balinese Textiles, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff, Monika Palm-Nadolny

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

On late 19th- and early 20th-century photographs, South and East Balinese people clad in traditional adat wardrobe for rituals, temple ceremonies, and dances often wear transparent, netlike open-work textiles as breastcloth (anteng), shouldercloth (cerik) girdle (selendang), or headcloth (destar, lelunakan). Information given by elderly Balinese concerning the situation before World War II confirm their use as part of their ceremonial wardrobe but also as important items in offerings and rituals. Such textiles could be laid over several fabrics, covering the body of a toothfiling candidate, or serve as curtains (langse …

Micronesian Textiles In Transition: The Woven Tol Of Kosrae, Ann Deegan, Ross Cordy

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper presents findings on the major steps in the transition of the Kosraen tol from traditional clothing, to tourist souvenir, to the end of tol manufacture. An extensive study of the German, French, and English literature of the 19th and 20th centuries was done to piece together the history of the Kosraen tol.

The island of Kosrae, located in the Pacific (4–10°N latitude, 140–163°E longitude), is part of the Federated States of Micronesia. Since earliest European contact it has seen numerous changes in its traditional culture. One of its most beautiful and complex traditional crafts is the woven …

The "Severed Shroud": Local And Imported Textiles In The Mortuary Rites Of An Indonesian People, Penelope Graham

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores the significance of local and imported textiles as these interact forming complex categories in the mortuary rites of the Lamaholot-speaking people of the traditional district Lewolema in eastern Flores, Indonesia. Within this regional framework, my account draws primarily on field work in the village of Lewotala. There a person's physical demise elicits diverse social and ritual practices, depending on the deceased's achievements during his or her lifetime and the circumstances surrounding the death. As regards the mortuary sequence that commonly occurs, I will argue that various uses of cloth for exchange purposes mark both the severence—consequent on …

Supplementary Weft On An "Ikat" Isle: The Weaving Communities Of Northwestern Flores, Roy W. Hamilton

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Among textile enthusiasts, the island of Flores is known primarily for its beautiful warp-ikat cloths. Most of the island's numerous ethno-linguistic groups, including the Ngadha, Nage, Endenese, Lio, Palu'e, Sikkanese, and Lamaholot, produce related yet distinctive textiles within this tradition. It is therefore surprising to find a series of weaving districts, stretching along the northwest coast of the island, where the ikat technique is not used. Instead, weavers in this region produce indigo-dyed textiles decorated with colorful supplementary-weft motifs.

In the ikat districts, sarongs for men and women differ in their patterning and in the names applied to them. In …

The Influence Of Computer Technologies On Contemporary Woven Fiber Art, Cynthia Schira

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

It is generally agreed upon, by both the participants in the field and those few who have chronicled it, that the fiber art movement as we know it today began with Jean Lurcat in France in the late 1950s. He was among the first, if not the first, to make designs or cartoons specifically for the medium of tapestry. Previously, paintings were translated into the medium of tapestry. As well as creating the design or cartoon, he personally oversaw the actual weaving process. This direct connection between the process and the concept or image, the manual and the mind, laid …

Byzantine Influences Along The Silk Route: Central Asian Silks Transformed, Anna Maria Muthesius

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Silks traded along the ancient Silk Route were precious, light, and easily transportable commodities that served as ideal vehicles for cross-cultural exchange. The survival of several hundred Central Asian silks, variously datable between the seventh and the eleventh centuries, presents an opportunity to trace patterns of trade, diplomacy and cross-cultural developments at the heart of the Silk Road. These silks perfectly mirror contact, cross over, and change fostered under the auspices of Mediterranean/Near Eastern economic and diplomatic exchange.

This paper will ask three questions:

1. What lay behind Byzantine influence in Central Asia along the ancient Silk Route?

2. What …

Cloth As Marriage Gifts: Change In Exchange Among The Lio Of Flores, Willemijn De Jong

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The exchange of gifts at life cycle ceremonies is one of the most important institutions in Lio society, as in many other societies in Oceania. The life cycle event of marriage and its exchange of gifts is often significant, because important sociopolitical alliances between kin groups are initiated or renewed. In these exchanges, cloth wealth may play a crucial role, especially in ranked societies. Weiner contends that in Samoa "each distribution [of fine mats] is an example of the negotiation and validation of rank and power." Gittinger has pointed out the economic and symbolic value of cloth gifts at marriage …