Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons^™

Overalls - Complex Document(S): A Never-Ending Artistic Research Process, Niels W. Lund

Proceedings from the Document Academy

I want to show that a pair of overalls can be a document in many senses, and thus demonstrate that the complementary relationship between materiality, sociality and conceptuality is a very complex relationship.

I will use an artistic approach to show the complex relationship and make an exposition of verbal text and images, consisting of 4 parts:

1. Origin of overalls

A short history of overalls - denim pants first with suspenders and later with bibs. They go back to the 18th century, were mass-produced by Levi Strauss and Lee and became popular work garment and later for leisure and …

Ciencia De Las Mujeres: Experiencias En La Cadena Textil Desde Los Ayllus De Challapata, Denise Y. Arnold, Elvira Espejo

Textile Research Works

En el contexto de la crisis económica que atravesó Bolivia en los años ochenta, una comunidad de puna de pastores andinos, Livichuco, que forma parte integral del ayllu mayor de Qaqachaka, emprendió por iniciativa propia un proceso de mejoramiento de su producción textil, con un programa de rescate de los tintes naturales de la región. Con recursos mínimos, los comunarios compraron ollas y bateas metálicas, y comenzaron a preguntar a las personas mayores sobre sus conocimientos prácticos tradicionales en el ámbito de la tinción de textiles. Durante un período de diez años, y en coordinación con varias instituciones —incluida la …

Development Of A Prototype Shirt For Post Double Mastectomy Women Without Breast Reconstruction, Hannah Lane

Apparel Merchandising and Product Development Undergraduate Honors Theses

Breast cancer is a common cancer among women in the United States, with thousands of fatalities and hundreds of thousands of diagnoses every year. A common course of treatment for breast cancer is the surgical removal of all or some of the breast tissue; this is known as mastectomy. Mastectomy is invasive in nature and results in noticeable physical changes to the body and psychological effects in regard to self-image. However, it is becoming more common for breast cancer survivors to embrace their now flat chests following mastectomy, instead of opting for reconstructive surgery. This has become a lifestyle choice …

Measurement Of Antibacterial Properties Of Foil‑Backed Electrospun Nanofibers, Mary Ann Wagner-Graham, Herbert Barndt, Mark Andrew Sunderland

College of Life Sciences Faculty Papers

Current methodologies for evaluation of antibacterial properties of traditional textiles are not applicable to foil‑backed, poorly‑absorbent electrospun nanofiber materials, since existing test methods require absorbent fabrics. Since electrospun nanofibers are adhered to the foil backing only by electrostatic interactions, methods used to evaluate antibacterial properties of surfaces cannot be used because these protocols cause the nanofibers to lift from the foil backing. Therefore, a novel method for measurement of the antibacterial properties of electrospun metallic foil‑backed nanofiber materials was developed. This method indicated that acetate‑based nanofibers manufactured to contain 5 to 30 weight percent of cold‑pressed hemp seed oil or …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 31:2—Fall 2019, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Letter from the President

TSA News:
Announcing the 2019 Fellows of the Textile Society of America
New Professionals Convening: Envisioning Textiles Futures
Observations of New Professionals Convening: Envisioning Textiles Futures
Board Workshop with artEquity
Announcing Research Travel Grant Recipients
Textiles Close Up: Textiles Old and New in Detroit’s Cultural Center
Cooper Hewitt’s Object of the Day Blog Hosts TSA Members for NYC Textile Month

In Memoriam: Marion Coleman

In Memoriam: Archie Brennan

TSA Symposium News
17th Biennial Symposium: Hidden Stories/Human Lives
16th Biennial Symposium Workshop Review: Rediscovering the Potential of WARP(S)

International Exhibitions

Featured Article
A Land of Light and …

Blanket Statements, Issue 140, Fall 2019

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 140, Fall 2019

Unity In Diversity: Textile Expressions Of The Human Condition In Times Of Economic And Cultural Anxiety, Eli J. Baez

Independent Study Project (ISP) Collection

Questions about the roots of human nature have been plaguing human societies across the globe since the beginning of time. Whole societies are built around the perceived answers, and the art which these societies produce reflect upon it and even contribute to constructing ‘proper’ human behavior. One such artistic material that lays literally quite close to the human body is the textile. Textiles can possess the specific power to shape the way in which an individual human body is presented to others, as well as to position a collective of humans in relation to others. In other words, textiles can …

Weaving Modern Forms: Fiber Design In The United States, 1939–1959, Sarah Mills

Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects

This dissertation traces the emergence and development of modern weaving in the United States. In a series of case studies, it follows the paths of three weavers: Anni Albers, Marianne Strengell and Dorothy Liebes, who make inroads in the field of American textile design from the late 1930s to the late 1950s through their teaching, writing and weaving practices. In the 1930s, these women, alongside other professional weavers in the United States, retooled hand weaving in a practice of prototype designing for power loom (machine) production. In adapting their skills to the design of machine-loomed textiles, their artistic agency expands. …

Getting Located: Queer Semiotics In Dress, Callen Zimmerman

Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects

The body, a long contested site of identity construction, has been used by historically by queers to convey desire, build affinity and transgress norms. Looking at the fashioned queer body, this capstone takes the form of a proposal for an art exhibition at the Leslie Lohman Museum of Gay and Lesbian Art. Seeking to engage with objects, performance and film which approximate, provide proxy for or depart from the body as a site, it explores the social and political quagmire of getting dressed. Comprised of contemporary art that looks at the rupture of legible bodily semiotics, this show wonders what …

Christopherson, Kathryn Kendall (Donley) "Katy," 1921-2017 (Mss 672), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

Manuscript Collection Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Manuscripts Collection 672. Correspondence, articles, interviews, photographs, and printed matter relating to the work of Katy Christopherson, Louisville, Kentucky, as a maker, curator, judge, lecturer and writer on quilts and quilting. Includes material relating to her involvement with the Kentucky Heritage Quilt Society and the Louisville Nimble Thimbles, Inc.

Blanket Statements, Issue 139, Summer 2019

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 139, Summer 2019

Jennifer Tshab Her, Allison Bautista

Asian American Art Oral History Project

Artist Bio: My work demonstrates and complicates the politics of displacement through my experience as a second-generation Hmong-American woman. As a nation-less ethnic minority from Southeast Asia, I fear cultural extinction. I create work that reveals the diaspora of the Hmong, questioning the roles of site and place, and instead looking in-between. My work engages political and cultural space through multidisciplinary practices such as embroidery, installation, and social practice. I use color as a dialogue–a tool for bringing attention to space, claiming space and recognizing how spaces are claimed. I interpret the question of ownership, whether land or body, through …

Floating, Nina Shishkina

Masters Theses

My writing is influenced by the concept of Montage. It has bits of readings, thoughts, memories. Everything is carefully picked and curated to inform the viewer of the ideas behind the work.

This book is aiming to explain the context of the time and space I was born and raised. The nineties in Russia were an extremely dynamic space. The flow of information, ideas, cultural events were enormous. Everything coexisted. the real democracy and freedom, as now it would be described. It was a dark time, full of hope and expectations.

Unfortunately for the reader, this text is not that …

Awe-Struck, Emily Robertson

Masters Theses

Awe-struck is an exploration at the intersection of embodied and situated cognition, sight, sense-making and nature with an additional layer of artistic interpretation and emotional response. Adapting elements of Terrapin Bright Green’s biophilic design principles, this work pushes past the well researched benefits of incorporating nature into a designed space, to uncover an individual’s personal connection to an environment. The connection is multi-faceted—layered with observations of space, color and location, filtered through a lense of physical, philosophical and psychological reactions and then translated into an individual personal history. With a specific focus on wild spaces, where humans have designed and …

Mais Fica : More For Me, Gabrielle Marie Ferreira

Masters Theses

This book is as much a part of my thesis as the fabrics and patterns themselves, stitched together from moments and memories. You may take these stories with you, but those hidden moments between my words will always remain for me and me alone. No matter how many people take these stories with them, still mais fica.

Sculpture As Souvenir: Reportable And Repeatable, Ashlyn Lee

Art Theses and Dissertations

In this paper, an analysis of the site as material, process, and concept for an artwork results in an understanding of the art object as a souvenir. Reportable and repeatable experiences are discussed and remembered in the six works of the Qualifying Thesis Exhibition at the Pollock Gallery. Of the six works is an installation, Catfish Fence, and five small works displayed on the gallery window sill: Bundle, Posted: No Trespassing, Sling, Right Recipe, and Margie Ruth’s Swing Where the Wasp Bit Me. Susan Stewart’s discussion of souvenirs from On Longing (1984) serves as a tool for considering the art …

A Journey Into My Mind, Shen Chen Hsieh

Graduate Theses/Dissertations

During my time as a student in the MFA in Visual Study Program, I have been interested in creating imagery that expresses my inner world that is based on my emotional experience. I believe my identity is influenced by my multi-cultural background, relationships, daily moments and my own introverted personality. I continue to experiment with various mediums and visual styles to communicate these feelings. Drawing, silk-screen printing, mixed media, and three-dimensional sculpture are the main mediums in my artwork. Exploring diverse mediums provides me opportunities to develop my self exploration in my images. I seek to express and understand the …

Journey To My Roots, Ainura Ashirova Barron

Graduate Theses/Dissertations

This autobiographical body of work is a visual journey that involved the investigation of my personal identity and roots as well as the exploration of my cultural history through a process that relied on photographs, stories and family traditions, such as crafting. I consider this process and practice to be my passage into a globalized society while simultaneously finding my niche in my newly adopted country of America.

Universe Of Things: A Human Presentation Of Food-For-Thought., Madeline Halpern

Bachelor of Fine Arts Senior Papers

I present this statement under three loose categories: People, Objects and their Environment. I consider People as human, Objects as art objects, domestic objects, and food, and Environment as the shared space of the former groups. Food directs this statement as I present each concept and creative process as a metaphorical dish. Material exploration carried me from a direct practice of reorienting acrylic paint and questioning object functionality through personified sculptures into theoretical thesis work in which I use interpersonal relations and the idea of consumption to translate tactile, gustatory and olfactory sensations into digital film. In this meal I …

Through The Looking Glass: Marie Antoinette, The Mafia And The Buddha, Craig G. Foisy

Theses and Dissertations

Through the Looking Glass: Marie Antoinette, the Mafia & the Buddhais a short documentary film that recounts six chapters from the autobiography of Marie Antoinette. No, not that last Queen of France who got her head chopped off. This Marie Antoinette lives in Woodstock, NY (“but I do like cake!” says Marie from inside her shop). And yes, Marie Antoinette is her real name. She is 78 years old and she sells what she calls “wearable art” out of a ramshackle and overstuffed boutique in town. Marie is facing the possible closure of her shop: her 100-year-old …

Wish You Were Here, Janie Stamm, Janie I. Stamm

Graduate School of Art Theses

The State of Florida is under threat from the effects of climate change. Rising sea levels are creeping up on to Florida’s coast, eroding the beaches and encroaching on heavily populated cities. Over my lifetime I will watch the water spill over the streets of my home town. I will watch the water flood the Everglades, pushing saltwater into freshwater habitats. I will watch the water begin to drown the state, taking Florida’s many little known histories along with it. This thesis serves as a document of Floridian life during the Anthropocene.

Within this thesis, I tell the story of …

Kiddush Levana, The Moon Is Your Handheld Mirror, Noa Ginzburg

Theses and Dissertations

Noa Ginzburg is weaving cast-off and hand-made objects, lights, reflections, spells, drawings, and an abundance of knots into site-responsive installations. In her thesis, Ginzburg addresses Hieronymus Bosch’s paintings, the synergy of assemblages, repurposing of materials in the era of Anthropocene, and how notions of solidarity and indeterminacy influence her work.

The Ethics Of Sheep, Chris Smith Evans

Graduate Theses

An interactive visual art installation in which participants use 18 original pictographs created through the artist’s polling initiative to anonymously oust sexual predators and human traffickers. Interactive components include wool sculptures of victims, witnesses, predators and six canaries. Viewers interact by placing code symbols on linking paths between predators and portraits of those who ousted them.

An Echo From The Living Room, Makayla Nichole Songer

Graduate Theses and Dissertations

We are unable to interface with reality as it is. Everything that encompasses our understanding of reality and ourselves—from our physical perceptions to our memories—are subject to innate flaws that make a complete grasp of reality impossible. an echo from the living room is invested in the idea that reality itself is malleable, taking influence from altered states of reality such as dreams, nightmares, and memory. Drawing from the personal experiences of recurring nightmares and living in a haunted house, as well film, the uncanny, and the multiple, an echo from the living room strives to create space for these …

All The Better To See You With., Monica Stewart

Electronic Theses and Dissertations

All the Better to See You With is a body of work that deals with the inherently complex relationships between fairy tales and feminism. Consisting of an installation of hand-embroidered life-size or larger, papier-mâché female body parts and a series of six mixed media works on paper, this collection of work uses the imagery of fairy tales to address the violence of female experience. Through an exploration of the role of women in both the writing and literary function of fairy tales, we can see connections between the truth and fiction of women’s work and violence against women.

Millennials' Acceptance Of Voice Activated Shopping, Katelyn Nicole Sorensen

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

The rise of voice technologies has changed the way individuals complete tasks and interact with their devices. Retail companies are now offering voice features to shop for products, but there is a gap in literature about consumers’ acceptance of using voice technology to make purchases. Previous studies have compared the different brands of voice technologies, investigated privacy issues, or explained the acceptance of voice technology. Millennials’ acceptance and shopping through voice technologies have not been researched before. Kääriä (2017) calls for future studies to focus on voice technologies, since the technology is constantly improving, and new forms are entering the …

(Un)Bound : Disrupting Notions., Reid Broadstreet

Electronic Theses and Dissertations

(un) bound: disrupting notions is a selection of art work that explores gender identity through the act of interpellation and the semiotics of clothing. The project aims to clearly define how concepts of “gender” and “sex” function in our language and, in turn, how the binary terms of these concepts (man/woman; male/female) enforce our genders rather than express them. Clothing is a particularly productive form for this investigation because clothing is often the way we express our gender, and yet it is also often produced for us along strict, socially-prescribed gender lines. Typically, conversations around gender are very black …

Costume Design For Qui Nguyen’S She Kills Monsters, Tanner Neal Mcalpin

Graduate Theses and Dissertations

The following thesis details the process of creating costume designs and implementing them in the production of She Kills Monsters which was produced at the University of Arkansas Black Box Theatre in the Fall of 2018. Throughout this thesis I will explain how the costumes went from initial research and conversations with the director to the final products on the stage. The account of this includes an analysis of the script, collages of photos used for inspiration, portrait gallery, research, rough sketches, renderings with fabric swatches, production photos, and my evaluation of the process as a whole.

Affordances In The Work Of Eve Kosofsky Sedgwick: Pedagogies Of Writing, Reading, And Making, T. Meyerhoff

Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects

For many who have been transformed by Eve Kosofsky Sedgwick through reading her books and essays, by being a student of hers, or in friendship with her, the question "What does Eve do?" is often a mystery with no precise answer. These transformations can be highly varied in their manifestations. In his essay for the 30th Anniversary edition of Between Men, Wayne Koestenbaum discusses an "Eve effect" which makes "her listeners more curious, more intelligent, more consecrated to the vocation of being thrilled" (emphasis in original, xiv). This dissertation unravels some of these mysteries by tracing how the …

Costume Design For Shakespeare's "Macbeth", Melissa Rooney

Graduate Theses and Dissertations

The following thesis explains the process used to create the costume design for the production of Macbeth produced at the University of Arkansas Global Campus Theatre in the Spring of 2019. Throughout this thesis, I will explain the process by which the costumes went from initial research ideas to sketches and colored renderings and finally to fully realized three dimensional costumes. The design process included in this thesis includes an analysis of the play, inspirational collage, portrait gallery, research, renderings, production images, and an evaluation of the overall process.