Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons^™

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 26:2 — Spring 2014, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Special Symposium Issue
[New Directions: Examining the Past, Creating the Future, 2014 Biennial Symposium, September 10–14, 2014, Los Angeles, California]

Blanket Statements, Issue 115, Spring 2014

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 115, Spring 2014

Dressing The Leader, Dressing The Ancestor: The Longue Durée In The South Central Andes, Ann H. Peters

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The preservation and adornment of the dead in the South Central Andes can be traced over some twelve thousand years. The potential for preservation of human bodies and fine textiles in desert sands and high altitude caves contributed to a continuing social and political role of the dead in the lives of the living. Colonial period documents describe well-dressed mortuary bundles that participated in public ritual and could be cited as proof of heritage and validation of social leadership. However, the nature of social and political ancestry and its relationship to power change over time with the development of large-scale …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 26:1 — Winter 2014, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Symposium 2014 at UCLA
Director's Corner
From the President
TSA News
TSA Study Tours
TSA Member News
TSA Program Reports
Textile Community News
Conference Review
Exhibition Review
Book Reviews
Calendar-Conferences & Symposia, Calls for Artists, Exhibitions
From the Editor

Conversationa And Encounter, Belinda Von Mengrsen

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textile artists often use items of traditional textile material culture as sites for primary research or encounter within their conceptual and physical practice. This research practice is, however, far more than aesthetic or visual analysis: rather, it allows for the observation of that border territory in which a new work of art begins and ends—the very place from which the ideas come—and also of how influences are layered, and evolve within our psyche. Ruth Hadlow, has described the use of traditional West-Timorese woven textiles as “a ‘tool’ with which to think?” (Hadlow, 2013). Through such tools, primary research may operate …

A Fragmented Treasure On Display: The Turfan Textile Collection And The Humboldt Forum, Mariachiara Gasparini

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the summer 2012, thanks to the Department of Central Asian Art of the museum and the International Dunhuang Project (IDP) at the British Library in London, UK, the so-called Turfan textile collection--gathered during the last century Prussian Turfan Royal Expeditions in the Tarim Basin--held in the Museum of Asian Art in Berlin, Germany, was finally microscopically analyzed and digitized. Except for a couple of pieces taken into account in previous studies as examples of comparison, the collection as a whole (ca. 350 pieces) has not enjoyed particular attention from scholars in the fields of Chinese or Central Asian art …

Blanket Statements, Issue 118, Winter 2014–2015

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 118, Winter 2014–2015

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 35 (2014), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Nancy C. Bavor, Joyce D. Hammond, Marin F. Hanson, Laurel Horton, Christine E. Humphrey

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Lynne Zacek Bassett

Knockers, Pickers, Movers, and Shakers: Quilt Dealers in America, 1970-2000 by Nancy C. Bavor

Tlfaifai in Tahiti: Embracing Change by Joyce D. Hammond

"One Hundred Good Wishes Quilts": Expressions of Cross-Cultural Communication by Marin F. Hanson

Weft-Loop Woven Counterpanes in the New Republic: The Rediscovery of a Textile Legacy by Laurel Horton

Quilt Documentation Projects, 1980-1989: Exploring the Roots of an National Phenomenon by Christine E. Humphrey

Contributors

Index

Inscribed Cotton Ikat From Yemen In The Tenth Century Ce, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

More than a thousand years ago, Baghdad was capital of the Islamic empire under the Abbasid caliphs, and Yemen was a flourishing center of agriculture and trade. Among its famous products were dyestuffs, and cotton cloth with warp stripes, patterned using techniques of compression resist. As the strength of the Abbasid caliphate declined and claims to power gained hold in the provinces, regional artistic styles began to emerge. The rulers of Yemen adopted one of the prerogatives of the Abbasid caliphs, bestowing honor by rewarding their subjects with inscribed textiles called tiraz. From burial sites in Egypt, many such textiles …

Robert Hillestad, Professor And Fiber Artist, Marilyn Delong

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Department Information

Dr. Hillestad has been a member of the Costume Society of America since 1978 and has participated in many annual Symposia. Dr. Hillestad has multi-faceted abilities—he is a superb design educator as well as an active fiber and apparel artist—and he integrates the two roles of educator and artist expressively, superbly, and elegantly. Dr. Hillestad is professor emeritus at the University of Nebraska, Lincoln. In 1997, The Robert Hillestad Textiles Gallery on the Lincoln Campus of the University of Nebraska was named in his honor upon recommendation of the faculty in the Department of Textiles, Clothing and Design and the …

Sinan’S Screens: Networks Of Intersecting Polygons In Ottoman Architecture, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

An often overlooked characteristic of Sinan’s architectural production of the 16th century is the use of low screening walls and windows carved of marble with pierced openwork or tracery to let in light and allow for air circulation. Typically these screens display polygonal networks often with intersecting polygons. This paper explores aspects of these carved patterns, which have antecedents in earlier Islamic architecture, attributing particular significance to this architectural feature in the works of Sinan and three successors whom he had trained. These slabs (and their counterparts in forged iron) may be considered études, serving as opportunities for the training …

Dr. Who?: The Science And Culture Of Medical Wear Design, Patricia Duignan

Theses and Dissertations

The multi-million-dollar medical uniform industry has not utilized advancements in garment and textile technology that could positively impact the protection of healthcare professionals and patients. In most cases the uniforms meet basic requirements – they clothe the professional in a recognizable way. Little innovation in design, function and performance, has been applied to these garments. This is particularly evident in the case of the stereotypical white lab coat worn by many physicians, despite evidence indicating that these lab coats may carry contamination and play a role in the spread of deadly bacteria. Healthcare Associated Infections (HAIs) are among the most …

A Thematic Analysis Of The Material Culture Of Artwork Using Knit As An Artistic Medium, Rebecca Elaine Schuiling

Master's Theses and Doctoral Dissertations

This study provides insight and understanding into the artists who use knit as a medium to create art. In a historical context, knitting has had very specific purposes. Gradually, knits and knitting played an important role in a political sense at various points in history. Handcrafts in general surface as the focal point in several art movements. Knitting was included in only scant amounts within these art movements. The reasons for this are explored and illuminated in this thesis. I provide specific examples of contemporary artists who utilize knit materials as a medium, focusing on four pieces of artwork: City …

Blanket Statements, Issue 113, Fall 2013

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 113, Fall 2013

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 25:3 — Fall 2013, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Textiles Close Up: 2013–14 Programs
From the President
Director's Corner
TSA News
TSA Member News
Featured Collection: Altar Frontals in the Florence Benedictine Abbey
Textile Community News
Conference Review: Weaving History Conference
Book Reviews
Calendar-Conferences & Symposia, Exhibitions

Blanket Statements, Issue 112, Summer 2013

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 112, Summer 2013

The Challenges Of Textile And Manufacturing Industries In Kano Metropolis, Ahmed Audu Maiyaki

Business Review

Industrialization is the engine of growth in any economy because it plays an important role in the provision of employment, foreign exchange earnings and general well being of a society. However, industrial growth is moving at a very slow rate in Nigeria and particularly in Kano state. This paper aims at unveiling the causes for poor performance of textile industry in Kano Nigeria In this study two textile companies were purposively chosen to represent both the functioning and non-function textile companies. To this end, structured and unstructured interviews and also practical observation were used to collect the data. It was …

Blanket Statements, Issue 111, Spring 2013

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 111, Spring 2013

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 25:2 — Spring/Summer 2013, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

New TSA Program: Textiles Close Up
From the President
TSA News
TSA Study Tours
TSA Member News
In Memoriam: Irene Good
Textile Community News
Exhibition Review
Book Reviews
Call for Papers: TSA Symposium 2014 [New Directions: Examining the Past, Creating the Future, Los Angeles, California, September 10–14, 2014]
Calendar-Conferences & Symposia, Exhibitions, Lectures, Workshops, Tours

Transnational Ikat: An Asian Textile On The Move, Susan Rogers, Hana Carey, Patricia Giglio, Martha Walters

Exhibit Catalogs

Ikat is a ‘textile on the move’ today: moving across borders from Southeast Asia to different parts of the world, moving from ritual use to American fashion wear and other marketplace forms, moving from Asian villages to international museum and art collecting circuits.

Over 40 of these remarkable textiles, both in their deeply ceremonial forms and in their vibrantly commercialized versions, were displayed for exhibition in the Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Art Gallery at the College of the Holy Cross. The exhibition focuses on ikats from eastern Indonesia, Sumatra, Sulawesi, and Malaysia’s Sarawak state.

Curator Susan Rodgers (anthropology, Holy …

Gathering, Buying, And Growing Sweetgrass (Muhlenbergia Sericea): Urbanization And Social Networking In The Sweetgrass Basket-Making Industry Of Lowcountry South Carolina, Patrick T. Hurley, Brian Grabbatin, Cari Goetcheus, Angela Halfacre

Environment and Sustainability Faculty Publications

Despite the visibility of natural resource use and access for indigenous and rural peoples elsewhere, less attention is paid to the ways that development patterns interrupt nontimber forest products (NTFPs) and gathering practices by people living in urbanizing landscapes of the United States. Using a case study from Lowcountry South Carolina, we examine how urbanization has altered the political-ecological relationships that characterize gathering practices in greater Mt. Pleasant, a rapidly urbanizing area within the Charleston-North Charleston Metropolitan area. We draw on grounded visualization—an analytical method that integrates qualitative and Geographic Information Systems (GIS) data—to examine the ways that residential and …

Blanket Statements, Issue 114, Winter 2013–2014

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 114, Winter 2013–2014

Interweaving Media, Chris Quirk, Risd Xyz

RISD XYZ Fall/Winter 2013: Out of Bounds

Five artists working in wood, glass, clay, metal and fiber collaborate with Pollack’s design team to create a new line of fabrics. Pollack, the NYC textile design firm founded by Mark Pollack 76 TX, embarked on a two-year project with Rachel Doriss 99 TX, to collaborate with five artists and designers working in different media. The goal? To create a line of newly released fabrics—called simply The Makers Collection.

In the end, Pollack selected knit designer Liz Collins 91 TX/ MFA 99 TX in Brooklyn, ceramicist Nathan Craven MFA 08 CR in Roswell, NM, glass artist Katherine …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 25:1 — Winter 2013, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Symposium Reports from SNPS Award Recipients
From the President
TSA Programs and Events
TSA News
TSA Member News
In Memoriam: Terry Satsuki Milhaupt
Symposium Reports from Workshop Scholarship Recipients
Featured Collection: The Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing, Rajasthan, India
Book Reviews
Conference Reviews
Textile Community News
Calendar-Conferences & Symposia, Exhibitions, Lectures, Workshops, Tours

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 34 (2013), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Hallie E. Bond, Cheryl Cheek, Sharon Fulton Pinka, Merikay Waldvogel, Sarah Bliss Wright

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Lynne Zacek Bassett

Adirondack Quilts and Comforters: A Regional Study by Hallie E. Bond

The "Cooish" Rescue of the Quilt in Harry Kelly's Cottage by Cheryl Cheek

Lowcountry Chintz: The Townsend/Pope Quilt Legacy by Sharon Fulton Pinka

Printed Panels for Chintz Quilts: Their Origin and Use by Merikay Waldvogel

Alabama Cotton and Bemis Bags: Pieced into Quilt History by Sarah Bliss Wright

Contributors

Index

Review Of Michel & Nosch, Eds., Textile Terminologies In The Ancient Near East And Mediterranean From The Third To The First Millennia Bc., Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Textile production comprised the major manufacturing industry of the ancient Near East and eastern Mediterranean, yet it has received relatively little scholarly attention. As garments and furnishings, textiles may provide warmth and utility, but they are also indicators of status, objects of trade and tribute, products of technology, and economic generators. The role of textiles is both pervasive and complex, yielding rich and specific vocabularies that do not easily transcend time and space for contemporary understanding. This brilliant volume offers a compilation of twenty-two papers that result from an exciting collaboration between the Danish National Research Foundation's Centre for Textile …

Blanket Statements, Issue 109, Fall 2012

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 109, Fall 2012

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 24:3 — Fall 2012, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Textiles & Politics: Textile Society of America 13th Biennial Symposium, September 19–22, 2012, Washington, DC
From the President
TSA News
TSA Member News
Textile Community News
In Memoriam: Ghanian Weaver Bobbo Aghiable
Conference Reviews
Exhibition Review
Calendar-Conferences & Symposia, Exhibitions, Lectures, Workshops

The Kanga, A Cloth That Reveals- Co-Production Of Culture In Africa And The Indian Ocean Region, Phyllis A. Ressler

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Kanga is one of Africa's least understood textiles. As a simple cotton, colorful, hand and machine printed cloth it embodies dynamic historical co-production of culture throughout African and Indian Ocean trade networks. Exploring African mercantile trade history, the coproduction and exchange of iconography, the diverse use and meanings of the Kanga, suggests a valuable discursive role for this textile. Despite its longevity of more than 150 years, its significant role in creation of identities, and its contribution to communication through design and social meaning, the Kanga, receives limited attention in textile research. Though seen by many as a simple …

The Parenthetical Notation Method For Recording Yarn Structure, Jeffrey C. Splitstoser

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Until now, describing yarn structure has been more art than science, especially for complex yarns and cordage like those encountered at Cerrillos, a Paracas (ca. 900-100 B.C.E.) site in the Ica Valley of Peru, where yarns and cordage frequently involve multiple colors, sub-structures, and materials (e.g., Image 1). My early attempts at describing yarn structures using notation were essentially undecipherable to others. Likewise, narrative methods proved too wordy and no less confusing. (For instance, a narrative description of the structure of specimen 2001-L185-B1654- S001, a rope-like yarn pictured in Images 2 and 3, would be: Twelve Z-spun-singly-ply yarns Ztwisted with …