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Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

The Textile Society of America’s 9th Biennial Symposium took place October 7–9, 2004, at the Oakland Marriott City Center Hotel in Oakland, California. The theme as reflected in the title, appropriation • acculturation • transformation, offered a stimulating approach to the study of historic and contemporary textiles from many cultures and diverse perspectives. Of eighty presentations in twenty-four sessions, seventy are represented in this CD-ROM. Sixty-seven authors have contributed sixty-two papers. Together with more than seventy abstracts, they reflect in text and image the substance and intellectual vibrancy that characterized this symposium.

Geographically, the San Francisco Bay Area …

Regulating The Qi And The Xin: Xu Wei (1521-1593) And His Military Patrons, Kathleen Ryor

Art and Art History Faculty Work

No abstract provided.

Blanket Statements, Issue 79, Winter 2005

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 79, Winter 2005

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 25 (2004), Kathlyn Sullivan, Barbara Brackman, Lucinda Reddington Cawley, Virginia Eisemon, Laurel Horton, Kaaren Beaver-Buffington, Loretta B. Chase, Pamela Weeks Worthen, Mary E. Gale, Margaret T. Ordoñez

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Kathlyn Sullivan

Rocky Road to Analysis: Interpreting Quilt Patterns by Barbara Brackman

In Teppich: Quilts and Fraktur by Lucinda R. Cawley

Sunday School Scholars Quilt: Civil War Textile Document by Virginia Eisemon

Mary Black's Family Quilts: Changing Styles, Status and Fabric Availability by Laurel Horton

A Quilt For General Grant by Kaaren Beaver-Buffington

A Blue Hills Quilt: To Miss Charlotte Hawkins by Loretta B. Chase and Pamela Weeks Worthen

Eighteenth-Century Indigo-Resist Fabrics: Their Use in Quilts and Bed Hangings by Mary E. Gale and Margaret T. Ordoñez

Authors and Editor

Index

Lights And Shadows - 2004, University Of North Alabama

Lights and Shadows

Art and Literature Magazine

The Bridge, Volume 1, 2004, Bridgewater State College

the bridge

Volume 1 Staff

Lauren Carter, Editor-in-Chief
Jennifer Stodder
Kaitlin MacLean
David Mitchell
John Butler
Christina Warsheski
Courtney Smith

Jerald Walker, Faculty Advisor
Linda Hall, Alumni Consultant
Rosann Kozlowski, Alumni Consultant

Symbolic Defiance: Questions Of Nationalism And Tradition In Middle Eastern Textiles, Jeni Allenby

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

While the historical importance and visual beauty of Middle Eastern textiles have long been acknowledged, their contemporary role as a vehicle for political and nationalist expression has rarely been studied.

How has nationalism been transfigured into historical and contemporary Middle Eastern textile traditions? What new forms of textiles have developed from nationalist/political origins and what other cultures influenced their design and media? To whom was their political message addressed (were these textiles produced for local or foreign markets or as a means of symbolic private protest?) and has their creation altered traditional gender and/or social roles? What specific changes and …

Dragon Covers – Mysterious Aberrations Of The Li, Lee J. Chinalai

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Over a million Li people, representing approximately fifteen percent of the total population, live predominantly in the mountainous areas of Hainan, China. The island is rich in silk, hemp, ramie and cotton. The Li, a tribal people, began spinning, weaving and dyeing in ancient times and developed over the centuries a reputation for the quality and beauty of their textiles. Although the clothing and textiles of the various Li sub-tribes span a range of style and design, all – with one exception – clearly emanate from Li religion, culture and tradition, sharing roots with other Daic-speaking groups.

Several years ago, …

We Pieced Together Cloth, We Pieced Together Culture: Reflections On Tongan Women’S Textile-Making In Oakland, Ping-Ann Addo

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Tapa, or barkcloth, is central to the cultural identity, social relations, politics, history, and contemporary religion of people from the South Pacific Kingdom of Tonga. Large and ornate textiles made from the beaten inner bark of the paper mulberry tree are designed and made only by women. During 2003–04, the Center for Art and Public Life at the California College of the Arts completed a collaborative project entitled Pieces of Cloth, Pieces of Culture: Tongan Tapa Cloth. Under the direction of Ping-Ann Addo, The Center’s 2003–04 Scholar-in-Residence, Tongan women tapa-cloth artists from Oakland produced a full-sized (15 ft. …

The Evolution Of Yuzen-Dyeing Techniques And Designs After The Meiji Restoration, Yuko Fukatsu-Fukuoka

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper will explore how the introduction of chemical dyes to Japan influenced the technique and designs of yuzen dyeing. Yuzen-zome, a resist-dyeing technique in which freehand designs were created with multiple colors, developed during the mid-Edo period, at the end of the 17th or beginning of the 18th century. The technique allowed for the creation of large pictorial images, unburdened by the repetitive patterns that characterize most textile techniques. It revolutionized kosode decoration.

Traditional yuzen-zome was a true handcraft, extremely labor intensive and, as a result, very expensive. Only the wealthy could afford kosode patterned in this method. …

Interpreting Social Change And Changing Production Through Examinations Of Textiles Of Xam Nuea And Surin, Charles Carroll

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores the transformation of the Lao Xam Nuea style sin muk through two different approaches to the examination of change in practice. In the process, the paper reveals ways in which changing handloom production in Southeast Asia are inextricably embedded within broader changing social practices. The first part of this paper presents an historical and structural analysis of revolutionary migration and technological transformation of the Lao Xam Nuea style sin muk. The analysis examines the adaptation of techniques in the adoption of the Xam Nuea style through the comparison of Vientiane and Xam Nuea sin muk. …

Changes In Nomadic Arab Weaving Due To Outside And Internal Influences, Joy May Hilden

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Centuries of tradition in the weaving of the Bedouin, using sheepswool and goat hair, has changed dramatically in the last fifty years. With the decline of nomadism, due directly and indirectly to the discovery of oil, techniques and products have fallen to disuse or have been transformed with new materials and put to new uses.

Bedouin weaving was formerly used for tents, rugs and animal gear by nomadic Arab tribes in Saudi Arabia, Oman, Qatar, Iraq, Syria, Jordan, Palestine/Israel and Egypt. Lifestyles among and influences on the bedu vary by region, but the decline of nomadism is common to all. …

Copyright Statement

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

appropriation • acculturation • transformation

Proceedings of the 9th Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Inc.

© 2005 Textile Society of America, Inc.

Copyright of individual papers remains with each author.

All rights reserved. Published 2005. Printed in the United States of America.

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief excerpts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the Textile Society of America. Students and researchers wishing to cite the work of specific authors are encouraged to communicate directly with those individuals, as many of these papers represent work in …

Indonesian Fashion Designers-----Transformation From Traditional Textiles, Yuka Matsumoto

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Indonesian fashion designers who emerged in the 1970s have been creating various designs through uniting traditional and Western designs in accordance with the cultural policy of the country. Designs uniting traditional culture with Western culture symbolize Indonesia’s hybrid cultural background which consists of various ethnic cultures. In the 1980s, with the development of the economy, Indonesian fashion design was presented globally. But since 1997, because of the Asian economic crisis and the collapse of Soeharto’s administration, Indonesian designers have begun to present their designs to domestic consumers who have become aware and appreciative of the rich creative potential of this …

Cultural Authentication And Fashion In The Global Factory: A Panel Of Four Papers, Hazel A. Lutz

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Erekosima and Eicher (1981) first published a cultural authentication (CA) analysis. Of the Kalabaris’ adoption of Indian madras cloth, they asked four questions. Selection: how was the new cloth selected by society members? Characterization: what is the adopted cloth now called? Incorporation: how has the cloth’s use changed vis-à-vis categories of persons who wear it, occasions of wear, and its meaning? Transformation: how has the cloth been physically transformed?

Lutz (2003) incorporated the four CA questions into her study of the producers and traders of Indian cloth exported to the now transnational Kalabari market. She found …

About Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Textile Society of America, Inc. provides an international forum for the exchange and dissemination of information about textiles worldwide from artistic, cultural, economic, historic, political, social and technical perspectives.

National Office

TSA Board of Directors 2004-2005

Officers

TSA Publications

View From The Hill, Jay Cox

Syracuse University Magazine

No abstract provided.

University Place, Andrea Taylor, Kate Gaetano, Sarah Khan, Tanya Fletcher, Cynthia Moritz, Amy Speach Shires, Wendy S. Loughlin, David Marc, Margaret Costello, Rachel Boll, Samantha Whitehorne

Syracuse University Magazine

No abstract provided.

Exploring Life Through The Depths Of The Subconscious Mind, Urszula Blaszak

HIM 1990-2015

The animation short I have produced is very personal on the subconscious level. There is no single theme; the narrator is the viewer. It is a dream sequence aiming to achieve Kafkaesque quality. About four minutes long, combined with dynamic music this piece of work is my reaction to society, to my life, ever changing surroundings, my traveling, childhood memories, and man-woman relationships, education, feelings, everyday worries, and everything else that I at the moment of producing felt like adding. It is suppose to be a portrait of me inside. I tried to recreate the everyday chaos of thoughts, emotions, …

Untitled, Blake Bazel

Digressions: Literary & Art Journal

No abstract provided.

A Guide For Standards-Based, Interdisciplinary, Elementary Art Activities For Cultural Institutions, Carolyn L. W. Carpenter

Dissertations and Theses @ UNI

The purpose of this research is to provide a guide for educators in cultural institutions to develop interdisciplinary programs that meet the national education standards, using meaningful objects from their collections and hands-on art experiences for grades K-5. A survey by the Iowa Museum Association (heretofore to be referred to as IMA) provides justification for this research. The survey was presented at the IMA/NMA (Nebraska Museum Association) Annual Conference in Omaha, Nebraska, in October 2002. The survey gives a synopsis of the educational programming and staffing in over 140 cultural institutions of Iowa. The results reveal a number of areas …

Fauxtopia, Raymond William Kampf

Theses and Dissertations

To all who come to this fictitious place:Welcome.Fauxtopia is your land. Here, age relives distorted memories of the past, and here, youth may savor the challenge of trying to understand the present. Fauxtopia is made up of the ideals, the dreams and the fuzzy facts which have re-created reality... with the hope that it will be a source of edutainment for all the world.Ray KampfFauxtopia DedicationApril 1st, 2004

Landescape, Dragana Crnjak

Theses and Dissertations

Shape, color and line are three basic elements I use to explore the possibilities of visual language. The process in itself is important since what is left on the paper are simply records of moments from which a work is constructed. These moments are mixtures of my memory, my everyday observation, my struggles and hopes. The starting point is always in between known and unknown, and it is always a new attempt for clarity. Rather than expressing what I already understand and know, I have a need to change my working methods quite often in order to expand my own …

The Spiritual Spa, Pongpop Narapanich

Theses and Dissertations

It began with the desire to create a SPA that emanates perfect harmonic balance through architecture. What architectural solutions would synchronize the spiritual, mental, and physical elements of the SPA? The answers lie in the meaning of the term 'SPA'.SPA popularity has increased due to the population's craving for healthier lifestyles. Heightened awareness of the afflictions caused by poor health has led people to seek out the benefits of a positive physical and mental environment.Many commercial spas are designed to meet only physical needs and disregard important spiritual and mental factors that contribute to wellness of mind, body and spirit.The …

Soul Hunting, Guido Esteban Alvarez

Theses and Dissertations

According to the Webster's unabridged dictionary, a mania is an excessively intense enthusiasm, interest, or desire; a craze. I experience a mania on a daily basis: I take photographs. I trap photographs inside flat, airless fish tanks where time stands still. The creatures captured inside the tanks resurrect every time I see them to remind me of a sound, an odor, a flavor, and, ultimately, a feeling I once experienced and now cherish. This project will attempt to show the energy captured in my photographic archives as a journey through my memories using an experimental interactive method.

Resisting Aggression : Graphic Re-Presentations For Other Bodies, Camilla C. Loveridge

Theses: Doctorates and Masters

These chapters consider how art can provide a space for wider critical debate on established patriarchal power relations, which have operated in Western culture since the Enlightenment period. As a female artist, I want to explore the space in art of both the female body and the community body. This work seeks to position the female body within the "form" of her subjectivity, to destabilize patriarchal strongholds through the displacement of the traditionally aestheticised female "nude”. That is, I examine the (historicized) notion of a “subject” and the representation of an "object”, and understand the female "nude” as a representation …

Calliope, Armstrong Atlantic State University

Calliope Magazine

Volume 20

Creatress: A Woman's Hand, Susan Isherwood Gibbs

College of Graduate Studies: Theses & Dissertations (1964–2006)

Using stylized and abstracted sculptural interpretations of She—Great Mother, Mother Nature, Earth Goddess, Creatress, Gaia, female sexuality, and the feminine aspects of nature; a wide range of differing chemicals and temperatures for the development of various clay bodies; and a vivid color palette to reflect ideas, feelings, and moods, I present a story of woman as metaphor for Earth and nature, an immense organic, ecological, and conscious whole. Incorporating found objects (natural and manmade) and fibers (organic and synthetic) with my clay imagery, I offer an awareness of the roles ofwomen from around the world in the spiritual and psychological …

Holocaust Avengers: From "The Master Race" To Magneto, Kathrin M. Bower

Languages, Literatures, and Cultures Faculty Publications

In the classic genealogy of the superhero, trauma is often the explanation or motivation for the hero 's pursuit of justice or revenge. Origin stories for superheroes and supervillains frequently appear in the plots of comic books long after the characters were created and with the shift in the stable of artists involved, different and sometimes competing events in the characters' biographies are revealed. This is particularly true of series that have enjoyed long periods of popularity or those that were phased out and then later revived. The stimulus for this m1icle was the origin story conceived for the X-Men …

Fables, Ruins, And The “Bell’Imperfetto” In The Art Of Dosso Dossi, Giancarlo Fiorenza

Art and Design

No abstract provided.