Art and Design Commons^™

2002 The Analysis, Yearbook Editor

Philadelphia University Yearbooks

No abstract provided.

2002-2003 Risd Course Announcement, Risd Registrar's Office, Risd Archives

RISD Course Catalogs / Announcements

No abstract provided.

Violence In American Cinema, Ryan Lewis

Whittier Scholars Program

The table of contents includes The Production Code, Violence, A Clockwork Orange, Reservoir Dogs, Natural Born Killers, and Fight Club. The project begins with an overview of the history of the production code and how violence was originally prohibited in movies. The author discusses various movies that include violence and the different techniques they used. A VHS tape is included as well.

Review Of Stillman, Arab Dress: A Short History, From The Dawn Of Islam To Modem Times., Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Arab Dress: A Short History, From the Dawn of Islam to Modem Times. By YADIDA KALFON STILLMAN. Edited by NORMAN A. STILLMAN. Themes in Islamic Studies, vol. 2. Leiden: BRILL, 2000. Pp. xxxii + 240, plates, figs.

Billowing folds, exquisite pleats, tightly wound turbans, flowing burqas, short square kerchiefs-the dramatic drapery of Islamic fashion fills the quiet spaces of our daily news coverage; yet the garments illustrated and their significance often pass without verbal notice. Little would Yedida Stillman ever have anticipated the widespread presence of the Islamic vestimentary system in Western media a short three years after her death …

Textile And Embroidered Bookbindings Of Medieval England And France, Robin E. Muller

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

I am a textiles artist who has become interested in book arts, as have many others. In looking for historic precedents, I was amazed to learn that there was a history of books bound in fine fabric dating back to medieval Europe. These are rich, elaborately crafted objects that required binders to collaborate with craft persons skilled in needlework. Beautifully woven fabrics were used, some of which were made for clothing. Other fabrics had been made for smaller, more durable objects like books or perhaps hats and handbags. There are records of milliners making some of the bindings. The appearance …

Silk Underwear For Ny Swells In The Age Of Victoria, Diane Maglio

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This appears to be an age of silk. The correspondent of a country paper, writing from New York, says that men are becoming very luxurious, and their… wardrobes and repositories for personal belongings display tastes more costly than those of women…. [as they put on] underwear of the softest, richest knitted silk.

During the last quarter of the 19th century affluent men of leisure and fashion had many hours every day to “loiter at the various clubs and discuss matters of taste.” Those who displayed an exceptional interest in fashion were labeled “swells.” This research was inspired by a fictional …

Threads Of Resistance: Unraveling The Meanings Of 19th Century Tlingit Beaded Regalia, Megan A. Smetzer

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although not the first to make the connection, Ensign Albert Niblack of the U.S. Navy wrote most succinctly in 1888: “There seems nothing unreasonable in tracing the origin of much of the dance and ceremonial paraphernalia to customs originating in war.” Since that time, numerous scholars have suggested and disputed links between Tlingit carved and painted armor and ceremonial regalia. Beaded regalia, on the other hand has been almost entirely neglected in Northwest Coast ethnographic literature due to notions of authenticity and cultural degeneration. In 1945, anthropologist Erna Gunther for example, explained beaded dance collars as a mere disguise for …

Table Of Contents

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Contents

Preface

Session 1. Archaeology and the Silk Road

Session 2. Textile Artisans, Global Markets, and Sustainable Development in Africa and Asia

Session 3. Silk, the Middle East and Africa

Session 4. Acculturation

Session 5. Silk in Medieval Europe

Session 6. Individual Papers

Session 7. Common Treads: Unwinding the History of Silk Production in Mainland Southeast Asia

Session 8. New Perspectives on the American Silk Industry: Silk Products and Silk Manufacture in America

Session 9. High Roads/Low Roads, North Roads/South Roads: Regional and Cultural ‘Personalities’ in Ventral and Southern Andean Textiles, part 1

Session 10. The American Textile Industry

Session …

Irish Viking Age Silks And Their Place In Hiberno-Norse Society, Elizabeth Wincott Heckett

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The context:

From the beginning of the ninth century AD people from Scandinavia, many from present-day Norway began to settle in Ireland. They founded the modern Irish cities and towns of Dublin, Waterford, Cork, Limerick and Wexford and developed lively and successful trading settlements that flourished until the Anglo-Norman invasion in 1169 AD. We know from the literature that the Irish prized and used silk cloth at that time but at present excavations have not disclosed any remains of silk in what can be identified as specifically vernacular contexts. The situation is different for the Viking Age settlements. In particular …

From Benaras To Leh - The Trade And Use Of Silk-Brocade, Monisha Ahmed

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A weaver in Benaras sits at his pit loom meticulously creating a textile piece of Mahakala, the god of protection for Buddhists.

A lama at the festival (’cham) at Hemis monastery performs the religious dance, the Mahakala image on his apron (pang-kheb) gazing out at the devotees as he pirouettes around the courtyard.

The two descriptions given above demonstrate the beginning and end of the journey of silkbrocades from Benaras to Leh. This paper looks at the historical context of the trade in silkbrocades from Benaras to Leh, and discusses how this trade first started. It …

Wesley Simpson: Designer, Stylist And Entrepreneur, Lynn Felsher

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Over 20 years ago, The Museum at FIT received an anonymous gift of approximately 165 small textile samples and 27 scarves from the company, Wesley Simpson Custom Fabrics, Inc. The textiles dating from the late 1930s through the 1940s were designed for moderately priced women’s apparel. Printed on rayon crepe grounds, they were typical of the period, loose painterly florals, paisleys, conversationals, and small geometric, abstract and stripe patterns on light-colored grounds or discharge printed on dark grounds. The Metropolitan Museum of Art and The Brooklyn Museum of Art also have substantial holdings of Wesley Simpson Custom Fabrics, and an …

Silk In Ancient Nubia: One Road, Many Sources, Nettie K. Adams, William S. Webb

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Silk in ancient Africa? Most of us think of ancient Africans as members of a tribe, living by subsistence farming or herding, in villages of grass houses. But Nubia, the ancient Kush, located along the Nile in southern Egypt and the northern part of the Sudan, (Fig.l) was inhabited by an African people who, by 1800 BC, had developed their own high civilization. The Kushites were suppliers of ivory, ebony, gold, ostrich feathers, animal skins, and slaves to ancient Egypt and elsewhere in the Mediterranean world. In exchange they received a wide variety of manufactured goods.

By the fourth century …

From Benaras To Leh - The Trade And Use Of Silk-Brocade, Monisha Ahmed

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A weaver in Benaras sits at his pit loom meticulously creating a textile piece of Mahakala. the god of protection for Buddhists.

A lama at the festival ('cham) at Hemis monastery performs the religious dance, the Mahakala image on his apron (pang-kheb) gazing out at the devotees as he pirouettes around the courtyard.

The two descriptions given above demonstrate the beginning and end of the journey of silkbrocades from Benaras to Leh. This paper looks at the historical context of the trade in silk-brocades from Benaras to Leh, and discusses how this trade first started. It …

Woven Bands, Medicines And Recipes: Cod. Pal. Germ. 551. The Adventures, Provenance And Contents Of A 15' Century Manuscript Held At The Library Of Heidelberg University In Germany., Ute Bargmann

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Today, we are going to visit Heidelberg, the city where the earliest German University was founded in 1386. On account of its romantic setting, it became one of the internationally popular institutions in the 19th century. Here, we will visit the University Library, where the manuscript we are to discuss today is housed. It is on the shelf in the Department of Manuscripts, bound in a modest working cover of the 19^th century.

History. - We shall embark on a journey of more than 500 years into the past and through some very trying times that helped shape …

Peacock Alley: Highway 41 And The Growth Of The Chenille Bedspread Industry, Ashley Callahan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the fall of 1935. a newspaper editor traveled from Oklahoma City to Atlanta to attend a baseball game, and along the way encountered a stretch of road near Dalton. Georgia known as Bedspread Boulevard. He recorded his experiences in his daily column: "Twisting through northern Georgia late Saturday afternoon, dodging cotton wagons and trying to get an eyeful of the gorgeous tints that glorified the turning trees in the mountains, I thought I saw a washing strung on a line by the roadside. Soon another flashed past. Then they followed in regular succession. . . . Is it possible …

From Court To Convent: A Silk Embroidered Sampler From Colonial Mexico, Bobbie Sumberg

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Silk appears frequently in many Mexican textiles and garments such as rebozos, skirts, and huipils or blouses. In this paper I discuss a different tradition, that of sampler embroidery in the urban style.

Yrene Escandon was reported to be a lady in waiting for Empress Carlotta, who reigned in Mexico with her husband Emperor Maximilien from 1 863-1867. During this time and before entering a convent after her service she and some friends embroidered a sampler replete with floral, religious, animal, and bird motifs. Using this remarkable piece in the collection of the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa …

"Dichotomies In Silk: Past And Future", Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The traditions of silk weaving and hand dyeing of silk cloth have been an integral part of the Japanese society and aesthetic, as exists in the Imperial Court of Japan. To this day, the Empress still cultivates the same strain of silkworm koishimaru, dating back to the Nara period (645-794).

Currently, only a fraction of the raw silk materials (reeled silk yarn and cocoons) used to produce Japanese silk textiles are actually produced by Japan. Competition from current foreign imports, textile manufacturers' indifference to the quality of raw materials, and decreasing usage of kimonos challenge the viability of labor-intensive …

The Impact Of Silk On Ottonian And Salian Manuscripts, Stephen Wagner

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In keeping with the theme of the symposium's title, "Silk Roads, Other Roads," the medieval roads that this essay will travel converge in a number of ways. Most importantly, two distinctive art forms came together for a brief period in Germany during the tenth and eleventh centuries, the period of Ottonian and Salian rule. The two products, silk and illuminated manuscripts shared important qualities. Not only were they among the most luxurious objects of the middle ages, but they also assisted bishops and rulers advance their political programs. This phenomenon developed as a result of increased interaction with a major …

Drs Quarterly Council Report: Issue 1, Alec Robertson

Quarterly Council Reports

This was the first issue of the QCR - an initiative of the Design Research Society Council with the aim of providing a regular overview of Council member views and activity to the DRS members.

Contents

International Reports

• Australia (East), Vesna Popovic
• Australia (West), Terence Love
• Greece, Artemis Yagou
• The Netherlands, John L. Heintz
• Turkey, H. Alpay Er
• USA, Christopher Nemeth

Officers' Reports
• Honorary Secretary, Rachael Luck
• Publications Officer, Alec Robertson

Autotopography: Graffiti, Landscapes, & Selves, Deirdre Heddon

Reconstruction: Studies in Contemporary Culture

[First paragraph]

For some time now I have been interested in autobiographical performance -- some form of the theatrical, in which performers explicitly use personal material in their work. Within this general field of autobiography and performance, one area of research concerns performances that are dependent on being located in personalised space -- what could be called, then, site-specific autobiographical performance. A recent example of this would be the performance Bubbling Tom (2000), by the UK based performer Mike Pearson, which saw Pearson return to the village of his childhood, to reflect upon and re-enact certain memories, events and persons …

Lifeworlds [On Wendy Kirkup's Echo], Renee Baert

Reconstruction: Studies in Contemporary Culture

No abstract provided.

Passaic Boys Are Hell: Robert Smithson's Tag As Temporal And Spatial Marker Of The Geographical Self, Felicity Colman

Reconstruction: Studies in Contemporary Culture

[First paragraph]

Robert Smithson seductively created stories about his activities as an artist with attention to his duration; his time of existence. Born in 1938 in the New Jersey suburb of Passaic, Smithson lived in the New Jersey suburbs of Rutherford and Clifton with his family until 1957 when he moved to live in downtown Manhattan, New York (Hobbs 1981, 231-232; Tsai 1991, 6). Smithson's adult life was undeniably shaped by his Pascalian/Sopranos awareness of engaging the circumference by which to navigate the centre of everyday life. In 1972 Smithson described New Jersey as: a kind of destroyed California, …

Why Do You Always Make Us Think? Maintaining A Journal In The Beginning Design Studio, Karl Puljak

Proceedings of the 18th National Conference on the Beginning Design Student

No abstract provided.

The Sandbox: An Introduction To Form & Form Making Through Notions Of Surface, Brian T. Rex

Proceedings of the 18th National Conference on the Beginning Design Student

Visual Literacy is a two-year-old cross-disciplinary instruction unit that encompasses a "learning community" of Textile and Clothing Design, Architecture, Interior Design, and Fine Art students in their first year of foundation design education. This pedagogy is a three week long unit (with 9 hours of contact time per week) in a two semester long program. Each faculty member teaches one of four thematically charged instructional units through which studio sized groups of students rotate over the course of a semester. The thematic foci of the four units are Drawing, Color; Frame, and Form. This specific unit is the Form unrt:. …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 23 (2002), Virginia Gunn, Melissa Jurenga, Connie J. Nordstrom, Judy Elsley, Kim M. King, Carolyn O'Bagy Davis, Marilyn Goldman

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Virginia Gunn

She Hath Done What She Could: Discovering Memories on a New York Friendship Quilt Vll by Melissa Jurenga

One Pot of Flowers Quilt Pattern--Blossoming Through Centuries by Connie J. Nordstrom

Read Me a Story: Cultural Values in Children's Quilt Fiction by Judy Elsley

Quiltmakers' Online Communities by Kim M. King

Fanny and the Busy Bees by Carolyn O'Bagy Davis

The Wilkinson Quilt Company: "America's Original Makers of Fine Quilts" by Marilyn Goldman

Authors and Editor

Index

Calliope, Armstrong Atlantic State University

Calliope Magazine

Volume 18

An Introduction To The Brotherhood Of Free Culture And The Cultural Center Of Pushkinskaya Ten, Joseph C. Troncale

Languages, Literatures, and Cultures Faculty Publications

The exhibition, The Brotherhood of Free Culture: Recent Art From St. Petersburg, Russia represents a significant moment in the history of exhibitions of Russian nonconformism in painting. Like all Russian nonconformist art, this exhibition and these artists trace their roots back directly to 1863 and to the tradition of "unofficial" art, which, one might say, began with the refusal of those fourteen artists to remain under the yoke of the academy. The bold move of those young artists in the nineteenth century precipitated the formation of a more permanent group of painters into the Brotherhood of Traveling Art Exhibitions, …

Reginald Marsh Prints: Whitney Museum Of American Art Portfolio, Part Two, University Of Richmond Museums

Exhibition Brochures

Reginald Marsh Prints: Whitney Museum of American Art Portfolio, Part Two

January 8 to June 29, 2002

Joel and Lila Harnett Print Study Center

Introduction

It is only fitting that this two-part, yearlong inaugural exhibition for the Joel and Lila Harnett Print Study Center feature one of America's most important artists whose talents were honed during the 1920s and 1930s, a period when American printmaking experienced a surge in popularity. Reginald Marsh (1898-1954) created images that revealed the society and tempo of his environment and his time, and he was considered a Social Realist along with such artists as Isabel …

Lights And Shadows - 2002, University Of North Alabama

Lights and Shadows

Art and Literature Magazine

The Marble Faun (Bookcover), Gabrielle Bordwin, Sky Bergman

Art and Design

Cover design: Gabrielle Bordwin Cover photograph: © Sky Bergman