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Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 11 (1990), Laurel Horton, Kristin M. Langellier, Jeanette Lou (Jan) Stehlik, Janet Carruth, Laurene Sinema, Joyce B. Peaden, Nancy Gibson Tuckhorn, Elizabeth Richards, Sherri Martin-Scott, Kerry Maguire, Barbara K. Phillippi, Wilene Smith

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Laurel Horton

The Marketing of Anne Orr's Quilts by Merikay Waldvogel

Contemporary Quiltmaking in Maine: Re-fashioning Femininity by Kristin M. Langellier

Quilt Patterns and Contests of the Omaha World Herald, 1921-1941 by Jan Stehlik

Emma Andres and Her Six Grand Old Characters by Janet Carruth and Laurene Sinema

The Multicolored Geometric Pieced Sails of Mindanao and the Sulu Archipelago by Joyce B. Peaden

A Profile of Quilts and Donors at the DAR Museum by Nancy Gibson Tuckhorn

Quilts as Material History: Identifying Research Models by Elizabeth Richards, Sherri Martin-Scott, and Kerry Maguire

Pre-1940 Quilt Tops: Their Status and …

The American Market For Indian Textiles, 1785-1820: In The Twilight Of Traditional Cloth Manufacture, Susan S. Bean

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A brisk trade in Indian cloth developed soon after the end of the American War of Independence in 1783 and continued to flourish until Congress enacted a prohibitive tariff in 1816 to protect the nascent U.S. textile manufacturing industry. For the period 1795-1805, U.S. trade with India well exceeded trade with all European nations combined for all commodities (Furber 1938:258). Cloth was the centerpiece of this trade: The piece goods imported in 1804-05, for instance, were about three times the value of all other goods from India, chiefly sugar, indigo, ginger, and a variety of spices and drugs (Bhagat 1970:42). …

Textiles In Trade In West Africa, Brigitte Menzel

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textiles in Africa since some time have become a topic of research, much of which is focused on aspects of art. The at least equally important economic aspects (production, consumption, and trade) are still rather neglected.

When doing field research in West Africa it is impossible to overlook the fact that most of the textiles in use could not have been produced locally. This applies not only to the colorful printed cottons but as well to handmade textiles.

In Asante (Ghana) I found woolen fabrics, which obviously were hand-woven but must have come from somewhere else as sheep and goats …

Of Cabbages And Kings, Ellen S. Smart

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper attempts to relate a small number of Mughal furnishing fabrics to their 17th C prices and to the purchasing power of Mughal money. There is no intent to give a comprehensive overview, but rather to see a few 17th C textiles, which today are rare and fabulously expensive, in terms of their original comparative cost. Information about the fabrics comes from the goods themselves and from contemporary Mughal paintings. Although inscriptions on the textiles contain some information about prices, several tables of textiles and prices are found in the Ain-i Akbari, a compendium on the mode of …

A Brief History Of The Textile Society Of America Summary Report By The President, Milton Sonday

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

After The Textile Museum decided to discontinue its Irene Emery Roundtables and die Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Anciens finally admitted it was not interested in an American branch, it became clear that an independent American group of textile enthusiasts should be formed to satisfy the many requests for such an organization. There had been an attempt to form a group which was called WHATS, but it never got off the ground. Peggy Gilfoy at the Indianapolis Museum of Art, one of the original organizers, was left guarding its small fund when it folded.

On April 3, 1987 a small …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 1:2 – June 1989, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
A Call for Papers
In Memorium, Joseph V. Columbus (1912-1989)
What’s New
Study Tours
Symposium, Seminars, Workshops
Veronika Gervers Research Fellowship in Costume and Textile History
The Log Museum
Membership in the Textile Society of America
C.I.E.T.A.
Joseph V. Columbus Tapestry Symposium

Carpets And History, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

The story of Western trade with Persia in textiles and carpets casts a fascinating light on the exciting, sometimes turbulent history of the centuries following Europe's Age of Exploration. The intense commercial and political rivalries of European mercantile expansion during the 400-year period from about 1500 to 1900 is revealed both by official historical documents - treaties, royal decrees and contracts - and by more personal ones, such as the reports of traveling merchants. Through the details of production and trade that these documents contain, we can view textiles and carpets as key commodities in the international marketplace. They played …

An Introduction To Oriental Carpets: The Arthur D. Jenkins Collection, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Oriental carpets have long fascinated the American public. Rich colors and attractive designs, as well as lush pile and renowned durability have given them a well-deserved reputation as beautiful and useful floor-coverings. Handmade products of far distant lands, their complicated patterns also evoke the romance of luxury and the Orient in days of yore. Yet Oriental carpets also represent both social history and manufacturing traditions related to the human needs, economy, and ecological constraints of their cultural origins.

Arthur D. Jenkins, an American collector of Oriental carpets, was intrigued by the social origins of rugs. Early in his collecting career, …

A Comparison Of Selected Uv Filtering Materials For The Reduction Of Fading, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

The effectiveness of a UV filtering material of flexible polyester film containing a silver reflective coating was compared to the widely used UV absorbing filters that are almost colorless or have a strong yellow tint. The silver-coated polyester filters caused almost no distortion of color rendition when used as a filter for fluorescent lamps and provided greater protection of artifacts than did the almost colorless filters. The use of UV filters of polyester film with a reflective silver coating is recommended when filters with a strong yellow tint distort color to an objectionable degree and yet greater protection of artifacts …

Blanket Statements, Issue 18, August 1989

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 18, August 1989

Blanket Statements, Issue 16, February 1989

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 16, February 1989

Blanket Statements, Issue 19, Winter 1989

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 19, Winter 1989

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 1:1 — January 1989, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
In Memoriam, Peggy Stolz Gilfoy (1936–1988)
What's New [by state and province]
Obituary [Florence Lewis May]
CIETA [invitation to Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Anciens 13th General Assembly]
Positions Announcements
1988 Symposium Papers
TSA Board Meeting
Membership in the Textile Society of America
Textile Society of America 1990 Conference
About the Newsletter
Membership and Mailing Lists
TSA Textiles in Trade: A Symposium, September 14–16, 1990, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC [announcement of second biennial symposium]

Blanket Statements, Issue 17, May 1989

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 17, May 1989

Blanket Statements, Issue 18, August 1989

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 18, August 1989

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 10 (1989), Laurel Horton, Eleanor Hamilton Sienkiewicz, Barbara Brackman, Suellen Meyer, Elizabeth Weyrauch Shea, Patricia Cox Crews, Debra Ballard, Virginia Gunn, Jane Przybysz, Nancilu Burdick, Gail Andrews Treschel, Bets Ramsey

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Laurel Horton

Research Papers

The Marketing of Mary Evans by Eleanor Hamilton Sienkiewicz

Signature Quilts: Nineteenth~Century Trends by Barbara Brackman

Early Influences of the Sewing Machine and Visible Machine Stitching on Nineteenth~Century Quilts by Suellen Meyer

Nebraska Quiltmakers: 1870-1940 by Elizabeth Weyrauch Shea and Patricia Cox Crews

The Ladies Aid of Hope Lutheran Church by Debra Ballard

Quilts for Milady's Boudoir by Virginia Gunn

The Body En(w)raptured: Contemporary Quilted Garments by Jane Przybysz

The Julia Bayer Reinstein Collection by Nancilu Burdick

Mourning Quilts in America by Gail Andrews Trechsel

Special Presentation

A Tribute to Mariska Karasz (1898-1960) by …

Face To Face, Daphne A. Deeds, Karen Janovy

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

Among the various types of artistic expression, portraits are probably considered the most approachable by the greatest number of people. And yet, upon closer consideration, it is evident that no amount of scrutiny on the part of the artist, or the viewer, can deliver the portrait from a fundamental limbo resulting from its dual referential and aesthetic functions. The portrait partakes of a variety of truths, but never resides within anyone verity. The philosophical debate about the nature of likeness has raged since the time of Plato, and remains unresolved.

The motivations and limitations of portraiture have changed over the …

Dragons, Blossoms, Sunbursts: Textile Arts Of The Caucasus, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Rugs from the Caucasus have long been appreciated in Europe and America. Widely known for their bright colors and bold designs, Caucasian rugs have attracted collectors for nearly a century. These rugs, produced in towns and villages, reflect regional design traditions which were amalgamated from diverse sources.

Although embroideries and flatweaves (rugs without pile) from the Caucasus are less well known in the West, their designs are no less bold nor their colors less striking. Produced as a domestic art, they were destined for home use and local commerce. The richness of patterns in these textile arts is in part …

"Introduction" To Content And Context Of Visual Arts In The Islamic World: Papers From A Colloquium In Memory Of Richard Ettinghausen, Carol Bier, Priscilla P. Soucek

Textile Research Works

The edited papers presented in this memorial volume offer tribute to Richard Ettinghausen, scholar, teacher, curator and friend, a great man who affected within his own lifetime the study of Islamic art throughout the Western world. Through the high caliber of his scholarship and his discerning connoisseurship, he had a profound effect on the intellectual development of those whom he touched through his manifold activities, whether in publications, formal lectures, or an informal sharing of his knowledge. In recognition of his many achievements he received in 1976 "Pour le Merite," the highest civil decoration awarded by the Federal Republic of …

Blanket Statements, Issue 13, May 1988

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 13, May 1988

Blanket Statements, Issue 14, August 1988

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 14, August 1988

Blanket Statements, Issue 14, August 1988

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 14, August 1988

Miniature Masterworks, Daphne A. Deeds

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

Miniature does not merely mean small. When applied to painting, the term "miniature" conveys art historical and psychological meanings of greater import than simple dimensions may indicate. "Miniature Masterworks" offers a diverse group of undersized paintings which are related by virtue of their size, but which reveal larger issues pertinent to the history of twentieth century art.

While artists have used the miniature format throughout the history of art, the tradition of small scale paintings was rather recently reestablished in America, via the French. In part as a reaction to large, Neoclassical paintings commissioned by grand patrons, and depicting ideal …

The University Of Maryland Historic Textile Data Base, Clarita Anderson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

Our charge today is to discuss strategies and methodologies for gathering and extracting data from textiles. My specific task is to discuss the University of Maryland Historic Textile Data Base. This Data Base was officially established in September 1986 with a grant from the College of Human Ecology. Its purpose was to establish a sophisticated data management program on personal computers to handle the massive amounts of data necessary for research in this area. The long range goal of this project is to include all flat textiles. The immediate goal is to establish a data base on coverlets.

Before …

Wringing It Dry: The Challenge Of Prehistoric Textiles, Elizabeth Barber

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Some time ago I embarked on a "short little project" to find out what I could about Bronze Age Aegean textiles, which I had come to suspect were more elaborate and more important than anyone was giving them credit for. I knew the project could not take very long, and would not take more than maybe ten pages to write up, because virtually nothing in the way of textiles has survived from Greece—even in the Classical period, let alone the prehistoric era. But my father, who was a physicist, had instilled into me a question that changed everything: namely, "(If …

A French "Kashmir" Shawl In The Collection Of The Metropolitan Museum, Arlene Cooper

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper proposes a French provenance for a rare and superb long white shawl¹ in the collection of the Textile Study Room (TSR) of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This shawl has generally been thought to have been woven in Kashmir from a French design because of its weave structure, double weft-interlocked 2/2 twill, a characteristically Indian technique. The quality of the shawl is comparable to the finer Kashmir and French shawls of the earlier 19th c.; there are between 43 and 53 wefts per centimeter of goat hair in 12 colors used so effectively there appear to be …

Dedication- 1988, Milton Sonday

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This published proceeding is a milestone in the development of the Textile Society of America, a professional organization for people involved with the study and care of textiles. Without the strong and consistent guiding hand of its founding president, Peggy Gilfoy, the first steps of this fledgling organization would have been so painless, nor its accomplishments so impressive.

Peg's untimely death in November, 1988, has come as a shock to us all. For the Textile Society of America there can be no more fitting memorial to this generous colleague and scholar than the dedication of this volume to Peggy Stolz …

Crepe, Lillian Elliott

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This report is on Crepe, which I have been weaving for eighteen years. I've chosen to achieve crepe effects not by weave structure or finishing techniques, but by the amount, direction, and combination of spin in the yarn. In my work I have used available commercial yarns almost exclusively, although I am interested in handspun yarn effects as well. I've chosen to use plain weave or tabby, so as to eliminate other elements, and focus on the effects of the spin of the yarn.

The area on which I concentrated was intentionally limited; using plain wave I first combined different …

Manila Galleon Trade Textiles: Cross-Cultural Influences On New World Dress, Abby Sue Fisher

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Spanning a 250 year period from 1565-1815, the Manila Galleon Trade is a fascinating period in history which is addressed far too infrequently by textile scholars. The cross-cultural contact resulting from the Spanish conquest of America expanded to include Asia with the start of the trans-Pacific trade in 1565. Spanish trade ships sailed between Manila in the Philippines and Acapulco in New Spain, becoming the most enduring trade route in history. Three continents were involved: Asia, the Americas, and Europe, and consequently three entirely different cultures with their corresponding customs, belief systems and art styles. The steady contact between these …

Orientation And Symmetry: The Structuring Of Pattern Repeats In The Paracas Necropolis Embroideries, Mary Frame

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The most extensive Peruvian fabric remains come from the archeological site of Paracas Necropolis on the South Coast of Peru. Preserved by the dry desert conditions, this cache of 429 mummy bundles, excavated in 1926-27, provides an unparalleled opportunity for comparing the range and nature of variations in similar fabrics which are securely related in time and space. The bundles are thought to span the time period from 500-200 B.C.

The most numerous and notable fabrics are embroideries: garments that have been classified as mantles, tunics, wraparound skirts, loincloths, turbans and ponchos. In general, a single figure is repeated in …