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Textile Society Of America Newsletter 5:14 – Fall 1993, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Harper’s Ferry Labs Tour
Letter from the Editor
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the President
People
Mill to Sell 19-century Loom
Change of Address
FIT FYI
Textile Collection at Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
ETN Expands Membership
Announcements
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Juried Art Exhibit
Lectures, Classes & Workshops
Call for Papers
Fellowships, Grants, Internships
Publications
New Publications Announced
Exhibitions
Blanche Payne Costume Collection Reunited
Travel
Membership Information

Blanket Statements, Issue 33, Summer 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 33, Summer 1993

Tappeti Safavidi: L'Evoluzione Storica E Culturale Dell'arte Tessile Iraniana Dal Xvi Al Xviii Secolo, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

In Iran l'epoca safavide coincide con il periodo aureo dell'arte tessile: proprio nel XVI secolo infatti si completò l'evoluzione stilistica del tappeto persiano classico e la tessitura di sete e velluti giunse ai massimi livelli per tecnica e per decorazioni.

Nelle fasi successive della storia persiana nei tessuti e nei tappeti continuarono a vivere le straordinarie innovazioni dell'epoca safavide, tuttora insuperate.Nella storia l'Iran è stato uno dei più importanti paesi produttori di tessili.

In epoca medievale le sontuose sete ed i tappeti erano ricercati dalle case regnanti e dalla nobiltà europea per la qualità eccellente e per la bellezza fuori …

Paintings And Drawings In Willa Cather's Prose: A Catalogue Raisonné, Polly P. Duryea

Department of English: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

Paintings and Drawings in Willa Cather's Prose: A Catalogue Raisonné considers the specific artists and their visual art that greatly influenced Willa Cather's textual compositions. The Catalogue draws upon the author's research of Cather-related art from both American and European libraries and art museums. This art includes painting, drawing, illustration, and tapestry. A detailed and alphabetized list of selected artists and paintings that Cather preferred is provided. The artists are cross-referenced with Cather's own statements about their work or style. Included is biographical data for each artist, the named work of art, and often the date executed, the location then …

Influence Of Shade Depth On The Effectiveness Of Selected Ultraviolet Absorbers In Reducing Fading, Wendelin Marie Rich, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

This study evaluates the ability of seven ultraviolet (UV) absorbers to reduce fading of nylon colored with nine synthetic acid dyes applied at 0.5% and 0.05% owf concentrations. By including two concentrations, we could evaluate the influence of depth of shade on the absorbers’ effectiveness. Specimens were treated with UV absorbers using one of two application methods: an exhaust bath at 100°C or an immersion treatment at room temperature. After treatment, specimens were exposed to 160 AFUs of light in a xenon-arc Weather-Ometer, then evaluated instrumentally to determine the amount of color change. The UV absorbers examined here provided only …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 5:13 – Spring/Summer 1993, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Contact, Crossover, Continuity
Letter from the Editor
Change of Address
Call for Bibliographies
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the President
Museum Receives Major Grant
Textile Gallery Opens in Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
Bhutanese Textiles Sought
Newsletter Deadlines Explained
TSA Regional Activities – Report from the Southern Region
Announcements
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Lectures, Classes & Workshops
Coming Events
New Video Available
Publications
Exhibitions
Membership Information

Blanket Statements, Issue 32, Spring 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 32, Spring 1993

Falcons And Flowers: Safavid Persian Textile Arts, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

The Safavid period in Iran was a golden age for textile arts. It was in the 16th century that the Classical Persian carpet evolved to its fully developed form, and it was then that woven silks and velvets reached the highest technical and aesthetic standards of all time. In subsequent periods of Persian history, textiles and carpets reflect the extraordinary achievements of the Safavid era which have never been surpassed.

Under the reign of Shah Abbas I, who reigned from 1588 to 1629, Iran established important economic ties not only with the rapidly emerging European powers, but with the Mughal …

What Is An Oriental Carpet?, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Have you ever just stared at an Oriental carpet? Have you ever wondered what makes it so attractive, fascinating, or puzzling? Have you admired its simplicity or its intricacy? Have you ever wondered where it came from? Or, how it was made?

What is an Oriental Carpet? attempts to answer some of these questions. Conceived in response to visitors' requests for more basic information about textiles, this educational approach encourages the viewer to participate in an exploration of Oriental carpets.

Although the terms carpet and rug are often interchanged, here a carpet is defined as a fairly large pile-weaving intended …

Two Guys From Lincoln: Cameron Shaw And Craig Roper, Daphne A. Deeds

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

Two Guys from Lincoln: Cameron Shaw and Craig Roper offers the work of two contemporary artists who are inheritors of the anti-art tradition that continued in the wake of Duchamp with Warhol's use of popular imagery and, more recently, Koons' controversial kitsch sculpture. Though distinct in their visions of art and the world, Shaw and Roper share more than their home town. As social and aesthetic contemporaries these two artists arrive at conclusions that suggest a generational commonality. Both artists use assemblage to address issues such as the disillusionment of youth, emblems of male dominance, the ambiguity of history, and …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 5:12 – Winter 1993, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Tours & Travel
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the President
Announcements
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Lectures, Classes & Workshops
Calls for proposals
Thurman Honored
States of the art library opens
Exhibitions
Spring Textile Shows in NYC
Publications
Membership Information

Earth And Fire: Ceramics From The Sheldon Memorial Art Gallery, Daphne A. Deeds

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

EARTH AND FIRE: CERAMICS FROM THE SHELDON MEMORIAL ART GALLERY, the sixth annual Sheldon Statewide exhibition is a diverse selection of ceramics made in America during the past 100 years. From delicate Victorian vases to commercial ware of the early twentieth century and contemporary sculptural works, this comprehensive assembly truly offers something for everyone.

Though EARTH AND FIRE addresses the American connibution to the ceramics tradition, clay vessels and figures have been formed by nearly every culture since the beginning of civilization. These objects, made of the very earth itself, were not only utilitarian, but also often ritualistic or created …

Blanket Statements, Issue 35, Winter 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 35, Winter 1993

Piety And Power In Early Sasanian Art, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Sasanian art has long been considered a royal art: An art in service of royalty. Indeed, traditions of kingship in Iran became a paradigm for kingship throughout the world (though not always recognized as such). But the significance and strength of Iranian kingship no doubt led, in part, to scholarly paradigms in which nearly all in historical Iran has been cast in the shadow of kingship. But there are other ways to look at kingship in Iran. This paper explores the representation of royal images in early Sasanian art from a religious perspective, a view perhaps eclipsed by the ever-present …

Knots And Bolts: Design And Technology In The Caucasus, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

In the largest sense, Oriental rugs represent both the social history and manufacturing traditions of their particular cultures and are related to the human needs, economies, and ecological constraints of those societies. Each textile or fragment represents a complex set of human interactions between user and viewer, implying a social response, and between user and maker, sometimes resulting from economic transactions among buyer and seller, lender, merchant, and trader. Suppliers of raw materials and market superintendents or commissioners for fair trade and quality control may also have been involved. The quality and appearance of any given textile results from the …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 14 (1993), Laurel Horton, Judy Elsley, Bets Ramsey, Patricia Cox Crews, Pat Crothers, Mary Jane Furgason, Sandra German, Emma Grahame, Jeannette Lasansky, Kristin Miller, Laurel Thatcher Ulrich

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Laurel Horton

Research Papers

Art and Quilts: 1950,1970 9 Pat Crothers: Gender Misapprehensions: The "Separate Spheres" Ideology, Quilters, and Role Adaptation, 1850, 1890 by Bets Ramsey

Innovative Group Quiltmaking in an Isolated Coastal Community in British Columbia, Canada: Out of the Mainstream by Kristin Miller

Southwestern Quilts and Quiltmakers in Context by Jeannette Lasansky

The Smithsonian Quilt Controversy: Cultural Dislocation by Judy Eisley

Surfacing: The Inevitable Rise of the Women of Color Quilters' Network by Sandra K. German

Quiltmaking in Australia and the 1988 Bicentennial Celebrations by Emma Grahame

Prizes from the Plains: Nebraska State Fair Award, Winning …

Blanket Statements, Issue 30, Fall 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 30, Fall 1992

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 4:11 – Fall 1992, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Letter from the President
“Research in Progress”
Area Activities
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the Past President
Symposium Luncheon Meetings
The Practicing Artist
European Textiles
Aspects of Social Change
Announcements
Calls for Papers & Proposals
Lectures, Classes, and Workshops
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Textiles at Biltmore House
Fellowships & Prizes
Peggy Stoltz Gilfoy Memorial
Publications
Exhibitions
TSA Calendar

Blanket Statements, Issue 29, Summer 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 29, Summer 1992

Blanket Statements, Issue 28, Spring 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 28, Spring 1992

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 4:2 – Spring/Summer 1992, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
Symposium Registration
TSA Board
1992 TSA Nominations
Update on the Gobelins
Classes, Conferences, Lectures, Symposia
Events
Publications
Exhibitions
TSA Calendar

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 4:9 – April 1992, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Fall ’92 Symposium: A Diverse and Promising Program
Notices
Publications
Exhibits

Blanket Statements, Issue 31, Winter 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 31, Winter 1992

The Fashion's In The Bag: Recycling Feed, Flour, And Sugar Sacks During The Middle Decades Of The 20th Century, Rita Adrosko

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A modest temporary exhibit, FEED BAGS AS FASHION, opened in the National Museum of American History about a year ago (See fig. I).1 The enthusiastic and personal reactions evoked by the exhibit, and a story about it picked up by newspapers throughout the United States and Canada, made clear that the subject had touched a popular nerve. The responses of those who called or wrote, and visitors' comments, revealed that the recycling of flour, sugar, and animal feed sacks was a common, if not universal practice in the States between the 1920s and 1960s, still remembered vividly by both country …

Textiles As History; Clothing Clues To 500 Years Of Mexican Acculturation, Patricia Anawalt

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

The history of peasant peoples all too often is sparsely recorded and poorly understood. This paper suggests that sometimes there are clues in the clothing of certain present day groups that can provide insight into their past experience. To demonstrate the point, a group of contemporary Mexican costumes are examined that reflect the sixteenth century collision of the Old and New Worlds and the subsequent melding of these two disparate civilizations. This, then, is a study of the acculturation process through an analysis of peasant clothing viewed against a time line extending over almost 500 years, from Spanish Conquest …

Ruth Reeves' "Personal Prints" Printed Textiles From The 1930’S And 40'S, Whitney Blausen

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Ruth Reeves pioneered the use of vat dyes and the screen-print process for furnishing fabrics in the late 1920's. Reeves had a positive genius for publicity, and if she was not the first American to experiment with these techniques, which she may well have been, she was without doubt one of the best known.

Reeves was one of a new breed of textile designers who emerged in the aftermath of the First World War. To hope to work as a textile designer was a risky experiment in itself. American mills employed buyers and copyists in far greater numbers than …

Lace Production On The Island Of Pag, Croatia, From 1900 To The Present, Vjera Bonifacic

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

In her publication "Peacocks and Penguins: The Political Economy of European Cloth and Colours", Jane Schneider (1978) describes the flow of gold and slaves from northern Europe to the Middle East in exchange for colourful textiles, during the Middle Ages. Schneider argues that European-made black cloth and clothing constituted both practical and symbolic means to resist luxury textiles from the Orient, and in this way reverse the balance of trade and power. I believe that, a few centuries later, lace played a similar role in this process; uti1izing 1ocally grown and processed white 1inen thread and the intensive labour …

German Jugendstil Tapestries: The Daily Life Of The People Who Made Them, Marianne Carlano

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

In the context of daily life of artists and artisans, I sought to learn about the intimate thoughts, conversations and ideas of the artists who provided the designs for the tapestries of the Kunstwebschule Sherrebek in Germany (1896-1903), as well as those of the artists/weavers who translated such designs into woven forms. Like many an intellectual endeavor, my industrious search revealed little information of this type. Nonetheless, it is possible, though surely only second best without the voices of the artists themselves, to glean some understanding of the founding of the Sherrebek institution, the people who worked there, and …

Contents- Textiles In Daily Life- 1992

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

TEXTILES in DAILY LIFE

Proceedings of the Third Symposium of the Textile Society of America, September 24-26,1992.

Preface

Featured Speaker: Iwao Nagasaki

Textiles in the Everyday life of Artisans, Merchants, and Consumers of Fez, Morocco

• Embroidery in the Everyday Life of Artisans, Merchants and Consumers in Fez, Morocco in the 1980s.
Louise W. Mackie ........................................9

• Trimmings in Fez, Morocco.
Frieda Sorber................................ 21

• Weaving in the Everyday Life of Artisans, Merchants and Consumers in Fez, Morocco in the 1980s.
Lotus Stack................................ 33

• Artisans and Handmade Textiles in a Complex Traditional Culture.
Susan Schaefer Davis …

The Decline Of Jaspe (Ikat) Rebozo Weaving In Oaxaca A Video Interview With Fidel Diaz Valencia, The Last Maestro Of Jaspe Weaving, Virginia Davis

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The dark blue and white jaspe (ikat) rebozo is a traditional shawl-like garment still worn daily in Mexico by many women and girls, especially in the State of Oaxaca. Formerly,this type of rebozo was mainly produced locally in tatteres (workshops) in Oaxaca. Now such rebozos are almost entirely made in other centers, most probably Tenancingo and Chilapa de Guerrero, and brought into Oaxaca. When asked about the number of jaspe reboceros in Oaxaca in former times, informants would reply "a lot," or "many." By the early 1960's, eight of these remained. Not only had other types of weaving become more …