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Interpreting Social Change And Changing Production Through Examinations Of Textiles Of Xam Nuea And Surin, Charles Carroll

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores the transformation of the Lao Xam Nuea style sin muk through two different approaches to the examination of change in practice. In the process, the paper reveals ways in which changing handloom production in Southeast Asia are inextricably embedded within broader changing social practices. The first part of this paper presents an historical and structural analysis of revolutionary migration and technological transformation of the Lao Xam Nuea style sin muk. The analysis examines the adaptation of techniques in the adoption of the Xam Nuea style through the comparison of Vientiane and Xam Nuea sin muk. …

Changes In Nomadic Arab Weaving Due To Outside And Internal Influences, Joy May Hilden

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Centuries of tradition in the weaving of the Bedouin, using sheepswool and goat hair, has changed dramatically in the last fifty years. With the decline of nomadism, due directly and indirectly to the discovery of oil, techniques and products have fallen to disuse or have been transformed with new materials and put to new uses.

Bedouin weaving was formerly used for tents, rugs and animal gear by nomadic Arab tribes in Saudi Arabia, Oman, Qatar, Iraq, Syria, Jordan, Palestine/Israel and Egypt. Lifestyles among and influences on the bedu vary by region, but the decline of nomadism is common to all. …

Copyright Statement

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

appropriation • acculturation • transformation

Proceedings of the 9th Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Inc.

© 2005 Textile Society of America, Inc.

Copyright of individual papers remains with each author.

All rights reserved. Published 2005. Printed in the United States of America.

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief excerpts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the Textile Society of America. Students and researchers wishing to cite the work of specific authors are encouraged to communicate directly with those individuals, as many of these papers represent work in …

Indonesian Fashion Designers-----Transformation From Traditional Textiles, Yuka Matsumoto

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Indonesian fashion designers who emerged in the 1970s have been creating various designs through uniting traditional and Western designs in accordance with the cultural policy of the country. Designs uniting traditional culture with Western culture symbolize Indonesia’s hybrid cultural background which consists of various ethnic cultures. In the 1980s, with the development of the economy, Indonesian fashion design was presented globally. But since 1997, because of the Asian economic crisis and the collapse of Soeharto’s administration, Indonesian designers have begun to present their designs to domestic consumers who have become aware and appreciative of the rich creative potential of this …

Cultural Authentication And Fashion In The Global Factory: A Panel Of Four Papers, Hazel A. Lutz

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Erekosima and Eicher (1981) first published a cultural authentication (CA) analysis. Of the Kalabaris’ adoption of Indian madras cloth, they asked four questions. Selection: how was the new cloth selected by society members? Characterization: what is the adopted cloth now called? Incorporation: how has the cloth’s use changed vis-à-vis categories of persons who wear it, occasions of wear, and its meaning? Transformation: how has the cloth been physically transformed?

Lutz (2003) incorporated the four CA questions into her study of the producers and traders of Indian cloth exported to the now transnational Kalabari market. She found …

About Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Textile Society of America, Inc. provides an international forum for the exchange and dissemination of information about textiles worldwide from artistic, cultural, economic, historic, political, social and technical perspectives.

National Office

TSA Board of Directors 2004-2005

Officers

TSA Publications

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 15:3 – Fall 2003, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Peru Study Tour Report
TSA News
President’s Letter, Shep Award
TSA Member News
Fiber Program at the University of Kansas
Book Reviews, Conference Reviews
Exhibition Reviews
Collections News
Conferences & Symposia, Calls for Papers
Calendar- Exhibitions
Calendar – Lectures & Workshops, Tours, Publication News
Workshop Registration

Blanket Statements, Issue 74, Fall 2003

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 74, Fall 2003

Blanket Statements, Issue 73, Summer 2003

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 73, Summer 2003

Effects Of Light And Heat Aging On Selected Quilting Products Containing Adhesives, Janet Evenson, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

No published results concerning the long-term performance of adhesive-containing commercial products are available to quilt makers. Consequently, they cannot make informed choices. The purpose of this study was to carry out accelerated light and heat aging on selected quilt basting sprays, fusible webs, and fusible battings to determine whether or not they contribute to discoloration or degradation over time. Selected products were exposed to 40 or 80 AATCC Fading Units of light exposure and 6 or 36 hours of heat aging. Following light exposure and heat aging, changes in color, strength and stiffness were measured. Results of this research show …

Characteristics Of Fading Of Wool Cloth Dyed With Selected Natural Dyestuffs On The Basis Of Solar Radiant Energy, Kunio Yoshizumi, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

Photodegradation characteristics of selected natural dyestuffs were investigated on the basis of solar radiant energy. UVA and UVB fluorescent lamps were also applied to examine wavelength dependencies on the fading characteristics. The natural dyestuffs were observed to have poorer lightfastness in the comparison with AATCC Blue Wool L2. The order of fading susceptibility to solar radiation is as follows: Turmeric > Weld > Madder > L2. Moreover, it was concluded that the natural dyestuffs were strongly sensitive to visible light as well as to UV rays and L2 would be faded by visible light to a small extent. These results provide an important …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 15:2 – Spring 2003, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Thai Textile Experience
President’s Letter
TSA News
TSA Workshop
TSA Tour
TSA Member News
In Memoriam
Collections News
From the Editor
Conference Reviews
Exhibition Reviews
Calendar – Conferences & Symposia, Calls for Papers
Calendar- Exhibitions
Calendar – Lectures & Workshops, Tours, Book Reviews
TSA Member Questionnaire
TSA Workshop Registration
Symposium 2004 Announcement

Blanket Statements, Issue 72, Spring 2003

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 72, Spring 2003

Mamluk Rugs From Egypt: Jewels Of The Textile Museum's Collection (Exhibition), Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Mamluk rugs are considered by many to be among the most beautiful of any rugs ever created. The brilliant reds, greens, and blues (figs. 1 and 2) are reminiscent of rubies, emeralds and sapphires; whether this was an intentional evocation is not known. But The Textile Museum's holdings of Mamluk rugs, unparalleled in the world, are truly the "jewels" of the collection. Simply by virtue of the fact that they date from the late 15th century, Mamluk rugs comprise one of the most significant groups of classical carpets. Their lustrous wool and wondrous color, as well as their geometric designs …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 15:1 — Winter 2003, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Lillian Elliott Award Winners -- Sonoran You (2002), Frances Dorsey (1995), Marcie Miller Gross (1996), Kyoung Ae Cho (1997), Tomoko Ishida (1998), Sonya Clark (2000)
President's Letter -- Mary M. Dusenbury
Past Presidents Meeting
Member News: Susan Brandeis, Sonya Clark, Virginia Davis, Patricia Ewer, Elisha P. Renne, Mary A. Littrell, Marsha A. Dickson, Cynthia Schira,
Textile Archeology in Chia
Silk Road Tour
Yangtze Delta
In Memoriam: Cora Ginsburg, Charles Edmund Rossbach
Nominations R. L. Shep Award for Books published in 2002
IQSC Visiting Faculty Fellowships
Conference reviews: Southeast Asian Textiles (Linda McIntosh); Natural Dye Workshop with Ji-Hee Kim (Gwendolyn Hustvedt) …

Town And Country: The Landscape In American Art, Sharon L. Gustafson

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

The subject of Town and Country: Landscape in American Art seems an appropriate topic particularly in Nebraska where the land plays an integral part in defining our identity. The geography provides us physical sustenance as well as aesthetic nourishment. There is a closeness to the land that is perhaps even more evident in the plains then anywhere else on earth.

Landscape painting became a significant form of artistic expression in the 19th century. No longer merely the idealized backdrop for religious, classical or allegorical subjects, landscape itself became the topic of concentration. The British artist John Constable (1776-1837) and other …

Carpets Of Andalusia (Exhibition), Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

The fall of Granada in 1492 reestablished Christian dominion in Spain after centuries of Islamic rule. The rapid expansion of Islam from Arabia in the 7th century encompassed the rich cultural legacy of the Late Antique world, forging a unified empire throughout the Middle East and eastern Mediterranean lands and across North Africa to Spain within a short span of several decades. Arab and Berber armies had crossed into Spain in 711, generating at once an effort that lasted for many generations to restore Christian rule. In Islamic times, the Iberian peninsula was called al-Andalus, or Andalusia. Although we have …

Blanket Statements, Issue 75, Winter 2004

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 75, Winter 2004

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 24 (2003), Virginia Gunn, Heather Ersts Venters, Mary Bywater Cross, Sarah Rose Dangelas, Carolyn K. Ducey, Mary Ellen Ducey, Marin F. Hanson, Janneken Smucker, Blaire O. Gagnon

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Virginia Gun

Eighteenth-Century Annapolis Quilters: "She performs all sorts of QUILTING in the best Manner" by Heather Ersts Venters

The Anti-Polygamy Quilt by The Ogden Methodist Quilting Bee by Mary Bywater Cross

The Cultural Significance of the Block Island Woman's Christian Temperance Union Quilt of 1931 by Sarah Rose Dangelas

Quilt Symposium '77: "Fine Art-Folk Art" at Lincoln, Nebraska by Carolyn Ducey and Mary Ellen Ducey

Quilts as Manifestations of Cross-Cultural Contact: East-West and Amish-"English" Examples by Marin F. Hanson and Janneken Smucker

Egyptian Appliques by Blaire O. Gagnon

Authors and Editor

Index

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 14:3 – Fall 2002, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

TSA Study Tours
TSA Board, TSA News
TSA Member News, Directory Supplement
Textile Programs at Nova Scotia College of Art and Design
Collections, Publications News
Conference Reviews
Exhibit Reviews
Calendar – Conferences, Symposia
Calendar - Exhibitions
Calendar – Lectures, Workshops, Tours, Opportunities
Calls for Papers, Fellowships

Blanket Statements, Issue 70, Fall 2002

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 70, Fall 2002

Blanket Statements, Issue 69, Summer 2002

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 69, Summer 2002

Care Of Quilts-Storage And Display , Shirley Niemeyer, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

Antique textiles, including quilts, are very fragile. Excessive handling and washing can hasten deterioration. Light quickly fades colors and weakens natural fibers. Careful control of handling, storage, and display conditions can prolong the life of quilts.

Discovering Memory And Meaning In Quilts, Carolyn K. Ducey, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

After an extensive search Ardis and Robert James, quilt collectors from Chappaqua, New York, chose the University of Nebraska–Lincoln (UNL) as the home for their collection of almost a thousand quilts. They also supported the formation of the International Quilt Study Center (IQSC) in 1997 for the interdisciplinary study of quiltmaking traditions through the collection, conservation and exhibition of quilts and related materials. Carolyn Ducey and Patricia Crews, the Center’s curator and director, respectively, write about some of the work they do.

Care Of Quilts-Cleaning , Shirley Niemeyer, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

Quilts need special care in cleaning, but even professionals don't always agree on the best methods for cleaning quilts or even whether it should be done. No two quilts are alike. Methods suited for cleaning one quilt may not be best for another. The fiber content, dyes, and construction make each one unique. Sometimes it may be advisable to clean a quilt. Usually it is best to leave it as is.

Deciding whether to clean a quilt involves careful thought. What is the fiber content? How is the quilt constructed? Can it withstand movement or agitation? Will the colors bleed …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 14:2 – Spring 2002, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

TSA Symposium
Letter from the President
TSA News, From the Listserve
TSA Member News
Collections News
TSA News, Book Reviews
Exhibit Reviews
European Textile Network
Conferences & Symposia
Exhibitions Calendar
Lectures/Workshops
Tours/Courses
Calls for Papers

Blanket Statements, Issue 68, Spring 2002

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 68, Spring 2002

Geometric Patterns And The Interpretation Of Meaning: Two Monuments In Iran, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

The Alhambra has often served in the West as the paradigm for understanding geometric pattern in Islamic art. Constructed in Spain in the 13th century as a highly defended palace, it is a relatively late manifestation of an Islamic fascination with geometric pattern. Numerous earlier Islamic buildings, from Spain to India, exhibit extensive geometric patterning, which substantiate a mathematical interest in the spatial dimension and its manifold potential for meaning. This paper examines two monuments on the Iranian plateau, dating from the 11 th century of our era, in which more than one hundred exterior surface areas have received patterns …

Introduction To Doris Duke's Shangri La By Sharon Littlefield, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

SHANGRI LA, the most intimate of Doris Duke's residences, is the one that today offers the best view into the private domain of a public celebrity. What it reveals about Doris Duke presents a strong contrast to her well-publicized persona as a tobacco heiress, born to wealth, who liked to frolic. Observe the house, spilling down terraces of Ka'alawai toward the sea; contemplate its well-considered vistas and its polished black lava, white marble, and coral limestone surfaces. Admire the architectural features shipped from abroad and installed on site; experience the gardens with their towering trees, sparkling water chutes, and placid …

Blanket Statements, Issue 71, Winter 2003

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 71, Winter 2003