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Textile Society Of America Newsletter — Fall 2005, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Collections Management and Preservation Project for the Kala Raksha Trust, Kutch, India
Symposium 2006
From the President
TSA News
TSA Study Tours
Collections News
Conservation News
TSA Member News
Corrections Research
Conference Reviews
Exhibition Reviews
Book Reviews
Resources
Calendar-Exhibitions, Lectures, Seminars, Workshops, Tours, Residencies
Conferences and Symposia
Grants and Awards
Opportunities

Blanket Statements, Issue 81, Summer 2005

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 81, Summer 2005

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 17:2 —Spring 2005, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Lemurs and Lambda: Textile Conservation Training in Madagascar
From the President
TSA Member News
TSA News
TSA Study Tours
Conservation News
Collections News
New Publications
Grants and Awards
Conferences and Symposia
Calendar-Exhibitions
Call for Papers: Textile Narratives and Conversations: Textile Society of America Symposium 2006, October 11–14, 2006, Toronto, Ontario
Calendar-Lectures, Seminars, Workshops, Tours

Blanket Statements, Issue 80, Spring 2005

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 80, Spring 2005

The Ultraviolet Protection Factor Of Naturally-Pigmented Cotton, Patricia Cox Crews, Gwendolyn Hustvedt

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

Textile Technology: The sun-blocking properties of a textile are enhanced when a dye, pigment, delustrant, or ultraviolet absorber finish is present that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and blocks its transmission through a fabric to the skin. For this reason, dyed fabrics provide better sun protection than bleached fabrics. Since naturally-colored cottons contain pigments that produce shades ranging from light green to tan and brown, it seemed reasonable to postulate that they would provide better sun protection than conventional bleached cotton, and that natural pigments might prove more durable to laundering and light exposure than dyes, but there is no published research …

Biofibers From Agricultural Byproducts For Industrial Applications, Narendra Reddy, Yiqi Yang

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

Lignocellulosic agricultural byproducts are a copious and cheap source for cellulose fibers. Agro-based biofibers have the composition, properties and structure that make them suitable for uses such as composite, textile, pulp and paper manufacture. In addition, biofibers can also be used to produce fuel, chemicals, enzymes and food. Byproducts produced from the cultivation of corn, wheat, rice, sorghum, barley, sugarcane, pineapple, banana and coconut are the major sources of agro-based biofibers. This review analyses the production processes, structure, properties and suitability of these biofibers for various industrial applications.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 17:1 — Winter 2005, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Symposium 2004 Wrap-up
From the President
TSA News
Textile Society of America Financial Report, January 1–December 31, 2003
TSA Study Tours
TSA Long Range Planning Document 2004
TSA Member News
In Memoriam: Dorothy Burnham (1911–2004)
Book Reviews
Collections News
Opportunities
Call for Papers
Calendar-Exhibitions, Lectures, Seminars, Tours
Conferences and Symposia

No Place Like Home, Sharon L. Kennedy

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

Sentiment about home as written in this 16th-century quote is strikingly unchanged. Home provides warmth and protection and therefore meets our most basic utilitarian needs. Symbolically, having a home assures one's place in community, establishes social standing and demonstrates status within society. It is a private place where we relax, let down our guard and nurture relationships. Not having a home makes this security and belonging more difficult to obtain. In No Place Like Home artists explore the house and its transformation to home. Reflecting on the public and private aspects of home and homeless life, works in this exhibition …

Blanket Statements, Issue 83, Winter 2006

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 83, Winter 2006

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 26 (2005), Kathlyn Sullivan, Susan Price Miller, Mary Ann J. Montgomery, A. Charlene Orr, Colleen Hall-Patton, Claire Somersille Nolan, Heather Cadogan, Melanie Mckay, Maaja Stewart, Anita B. Loscalzo

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Kathlyn Sullivan

The Threads of a Friendship: Lillian Walker, Maxine Teele and Lucile Taylor by Susan Price Miller

Quilted Gems by the Jewels of the Lawrence Family by Marian Ann J. Montgomery and A. Charlene Orr

Jean Ray Laury in the 1960s: Foremother of a Quilt Revival by Colleen Hall-Patton

The Star of Bethlehem Variation Quilt at 1he Metropolitan Museum of Art by Claire Somersille Nolan

Artistic Creation: Amish Quilts and Abstract Art by Heather Cadogan

"The Tradition of Old People's Ways": Gee's Bend Quilts and Slave Quilts of the Deep South by Melanie McKay and Maaja Stewart …

Symmetry And Symmetry-Breaking: An Approach To Understanding Beauty, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Considering the relationship of symmetry and beauty, the author examines three textiles from the collection of Doris Duke at Shangri La in Honolulu. Referring to abstract expressionism of the 20th century as antithetical to symmetry, and the Arts & Crafts Movement of the 19th century as countering the insistency of industrial mass production, Bier explores the relative roles of symmetry and symmetry-breaking in the construction of three embroideries (called suzani, after the Persian and Tajik word for “needlework”), using as her point of departure a recent research initiative, the Shangri La Suzani Project. The study of colors, motifs, stitches, designs …

Symposium Program- Contents

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Plenary Session

Handwork

Costume

Trade

Power of Pattern: Textiles, Politics & Persuasion (Panel)

Individual Papers—South America

Symbols of Influence

Threads of Change: The Transformation of Textiles in the Lao People’s Democratic Republic (Panel)

Mexico and Guatemala

Weaving

Embroidery

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 16:3 — Fall 2004, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Oakland Beckons! TSA Symposium, October 7–9, 2004
From the President
TSA News
TSA Study Tours
TSA Member News
Symposium Exhibition: The Past in Present Tense: Four Decades of Baskets by Julia Parker
Member Reports
Collections News
Exhibition Review: The 11th Triennial of Textiles, Central Museum, Lodz, Poland
Book Reviews
Opportunities
Grants and Awards
Call for Papers
From the Editor
Calendar-Exhibitions, Lectures, Seminars, Tours
Conferences and Symposia

Blanket Statements, Issue 78, Fall 2004

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 78, Fall 2004

Blanket Statements, Issue 77, Summer 2004

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 77, Summer 2004

Effects Of Accelerated Heat And Light Aging On Textiles Marked With Fabric Marking Pens, Janet Evenson, Patricia Cox Crews

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

Despite reasonable concerns that fabric marking pen inks may prove damaging over time, some quilters use them to temporarily mark quilting designs on quilt tops. Unfortunately, no published results concerning long-term effects of these products exist. The purpose of this study was to determine whether marking pen inks contribute to degradation or discoloration over time. Samples were marked with one of three brands of marking pen and subjected to ink removal treatments, followed by heat or light aging. Changes in color and breaking strength were measured before and after heat or light aging. Results showed that a water immersion ink …

Improving Knit Fabric Upf Using Consumer Laundry Products: A Comparison Of Results Using Two Instruments, Jihyun Kim , Janis Stone , Patricia Crews , Mack Shelley Ii, Kathryn L. Hatch

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

This study investigated the use of two instruments to measure the ultraviolet protective factor (UPF) of T-shirt knit fabrics. After various laundering treatments, specimens were cut and UPF was measured from the wale, course, and bias directions with the ISO MET® UV-Meter and the Cary UV-Visible Spectrophotometer. Similar results were found between the two instruments and among repeated measures. Before UPF measurement, the shirt fabrics were repeatedly laundered using various household detergents and laundering additives commonly available to consumers. Statistically significant effects on the mean UPF values were found related to type of fabric, type of detergent/laundry additives, number of …

Traveling Stitches: Origins Of Fair Isle Knitting, Deborah Pulliam

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The beginnings and "invention" of knitting has long fascinated knitters and amateur historians. Only recently has it come to be studied seriously, and there is still much folklore and fantasy repeated and published as history.

This paper (and discussion) considers some of the best known and most popular stories about the origins of Shetland and Fair Isle knitting and compares those with more recent considerations of color patterning in northern Europe, especially in the Baltic states and eastern Europe.

Fair Isle color patterning has been explained for many years as having been inspired by a wreck of the Spanish Armada …

Blanket Statements, Issue 76, Spring 2004

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 76, Spring 2004

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 16:2 — Spring 2004, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

TSA Symposium, Oakland, CA Oct. 7-9, 2004, by Inez Brooks-Myers
President's Letter
New TSA Board Slate
TSA Study Tour of Ghana, Jan 7-20, 2005 (Dr. Lisa Aronson)
TSA Study Tour to Turkey (Walter Denny)
News: Mona Berman, Deborah Corsini, Virginia Davis, Genevieve Duggan, Judy Frater, Judith Poxon Fawles, Jane Hoffman, Suzanne MacAulay, Deborah McClintock, Elin Noble, Teresa Paschke, Fran Reed, Bela Shanghvi, Ruth Scheuing, Karen Searle, Myra Serrins, Barbara Shapiro, Carol Westfall, Patricia Williams, John Barker, Francis Concato, Sophie Desrosiers, Elana Dickson, Elizabeth Wincott Heckett, Edward M. Franquemont
Textile Conservation in the Kingdom of Bhutan -- Julia M. Brennan
Exhibition …

Patterns In Time And Space: Technologies Of Transfer And The Cultural Transmission Of Mathematical Knowledge Across The Indian Ocean, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

This article explores the potential role of textiles in the transfer of mathematical knowledge from the Indian subcontinent to the central Islamic lands and west- ward to an emerging modern Europe through an inquiry into prospective tech- nologies of textile manufacture and pattern-making. Ikat textiles of the ninth and tenth centuries, found in Egypt but presumed to be from Yemen, serve as a means to explore possibilities of numeration and treatment of the spatial dimension. An initial attempt is made to separate patterning from the technology of textile pro- duction in an effort to treat the mathematical possibilities that patterning …

Mathematical Aspects Of Oriental Carpets, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

When one looks at an Oriental carpet in the context of Western art, one usually perceives a richness of colors and patterns, and perhaps the contrast between central field and surrounding borders. A careful observer might notice the appearance of superimposed plane patterns in the central field and multiple linear patterns in the surrounding borders. Each of patterns, whether in the field or the borders, is composed of various design elements, which in combination are repeated according to the principles of symmetry, often with the addition of symmetry-breaking (Bier 1992, 1997, 1998, 2000a). The mathematical principles of pattern making according …

Islamic Art At Doris Duke's Shangri La: Playing With Form And Pattern, Carol Bier, David K. Masunaga

Textile Research Works

Shangri La is the historic home of Doris Duke in Honolulu. It is filled with installations of Islamic tilework and other arts. Open to the public in late 2002, by reservation for tours arranged through the Honolulu Academy of Arts, today this home serves as a museum in which a walking tour can provide extraordinary visual opportunities for the study of geometry and pattern both in the arts that are installed and exhibited, and in the surrounding plantings and landscape. The house offers a plethora of educational opportunities, for which its full potential has not yet been tapped. A new …

Spanish And Mamluk Carpets: Comparisons Of Decoration And Structure, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Two recent exhibitions, Carpets of Andalusia and Mamluk Rugs from Egypt, at The Textile Museum afforded a rare opportunity to compare two radically different rug-weaving traditions from the perspectives of design and weave structure. While not often evident to the casual viewer, there is a significant relationship between design, pattern, and weave structure in all Oriental carpets. The opportunity to explore such differences warrants careful examination and critical viewing.

The Mamluk rugs all probably date from the last quarter of the 15th century. They comprise a cohesive group defined by color, a geometric style, and similarity of weave characteristics. The …

"Indigo" From Encyclopædia Iranica, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

INDIGO (Pers. nil), the common name of a broad genus, Indigofera, with numerous species, widely distributed throughout Asia, Africa, and the Americas. A member of the leguminous pea family, indigo is variously classified as an herb or small shrub; its stalks are long, bearing raceme flowers. It is usually perennial, but in some areas annual. Native species are known from Arabia, including the Yemen, and around the Indian Ocean. In some sources Persia is not listed among those regions in which indigo occurs in a natural form (e.g., the website mentioned below). Hans Wulff (p. 192) mentions two local species …

Churchill Weavers 80 Years Of American Handweaving, Philis Alvic

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In 1922 Eleanor and David Carroll Churchill founded Churchill Weavers in Berea, Kentucky, and it still continues as a unique American handweaving company over 80 years later. While a missionary in India, D. C. Churchill tackled problems within handweaving, the country’s second largest industry next to agriculture. He put to use his MIT education, adapting the loom’s fly-shuttle attachment for greater efficiency. After abandoning his short teaching career at Berea College, the Churchills began a business to employ local people that had few job opportunities. D.C. manufactured the loom he had designed in India and compartmentalized weaving tasks. Eleanor designed …

Piecing Together A New Home: Needlework In Kvinden Og Hjemmet Magazine, Laurann Gilbertson, Karen Olsen

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Kvinden og Hjemmet was a magazine for women published in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, from 1888 to 1947. “The Woman and the Home” contained patterns for clothing and fancywork, as well as household hints, recipes, serialized novels, short stories, and poetry. Everything was written in, or translated into, Norwegian.

Ida Hanson, the editor of Kvinden og Hjemmet, had emigrated from Norway in 1870. She knew first-hand the trials of adjusting to a new way of life and she wanted to ease the transition for other Norwegians by providing information on how to make clothing and household textiles in the American …

Javanesque Effects: Appropriation Of Batik And Its Transformations In Modern Textiles, Abby Lillethun

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

American batik practice emerged in the early twentieth century based on traditional techniques from Java and those filtered through Dutch Nieuwe Kunst. The promotion of batik through the Arts and Crafts movement in North America fostered egalitarian endorsement from artisans, individual practitioners, and consumers, across geographic locales, social milieu, and skill levels. Encouraged by manuals, magazine articles, and exhibitions, enthusiasm for batik grew across the nation and in the avant-garde enclave of Greenwich Village. While practitioners were cautioned to avoid excessive veining or crackle in their works in emulation of fine tradition, commercial enterprises helped to transform the aesthetic …

Shifting Sands: Costume In Rajasthan, Vandana Bhandari

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Rajasthan in Western India has a history of turbulent political conditions. This is an outcome of Rajasthan being a frontier region of India’s borders. Therefore, its people have had a continued interaction with outsiders entering India in successive waves of migration (from the time of Aryans – 1000 BC). Costume of the region is an assimilation of many historical and foreign influences and has evolved to present a unique tradition.

This paper aims to study dress in this region by taking examples of different ethnic groups like Marwaris, Rabari and Rajputs and examine influences that have led to change. The …

Pleated Skirts Of Miao In Guizhou Province, China, Tomoko Torimaru, Tomoko Torimaru

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Miao of Guizho China are a people with no written script and therefore no written historical record. Of their pre-history, scholars are certain of only one thing: "…that the Miao were in China before the Chinese, for it is the latter themselves who indicate the presence of the Miao in the land, which they, the Chinese, were gradually infiltrating" (J. Mottin). With no written scripts, textiles are at once the Miao’s cultural identity, their history of migration, and a communication tool. For these reasons, Miao textile traditions survive to this day.

Although it is true the Miao have hundreds …