Art and Design Commons^™

The Cloud Brocade And Yangzhou, Ying Wang

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The kind of silk textile famously known as cloud brocade, from Nanjing, developed during the Yuan dynasty of China (13th -14th century).  Its production reached its peak during the Ming and middle Qing Dynasties (15th -18th century), and was monopolized by the royal court. The incredibly rich textures and fantastic designs fascinate people even today.

Throughout the 18th century, the successive officers in charge of cloud brocade production (members of the Cao family) were also responsible for the salt trade of Yangzhou. The salt trade was the most important industry controlled by royalty, providing almost 50% of the court’s annual …

“Revisiting The Ocucaje Opened Tunic From The Textile Museum; Washington, D.C.: Textile Models And The Process Of Imitation”, Sophie Desrosiers

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The opened tunic from the Textile Museum in Washington D. C. (fig. 1) is a beautiful object the colors and design of which are well known since a part of it was used 22 years ago on the cover of The Junius B. Bird Conference On Andean Textiles. The tunic has no archaeological context, but its characteristics place it among Early Horizon Epoch 9 woven fabrics from Ocucaje.

Mary Elizabeth King has described the piece in her doctoral thesis. It is made of four widths: two main panels in balanced plain-weave with discontinuous warp-and-weft, and two borders in triple …

Supplementary Warp Patterned Textiles Of The Cham In Vietnam, Michael C. Howard

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Cham People

The Malayo-Polynesian speaking peoples of Vietnam and Cambodia speak languages belonging to the Malayic group of Sundic languages. Sundic speaking peoples lived on the island of Borneo prior to their spreading to adjacent regions. From Borneo they sailed north to Vietnam, west to peninsular Malaysia and Sumatra, and south to Java and Bali. While Sundic speaking groups appear to have migrated to parts of Indonesia as early as 1500 BC, they do not seem to have arrived along the coast of Vietnam until some time around 600 BC. It is during the period 600 BC to 300 …

Omoshirogara Textile Design And Children’S Clothing In Japan 1910-1930, Jacqueline M. Atkins

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The early twentieth century in Japan was both a culturally and technologically expansive period. The Taishō era (1912-1926) spurred a new sense of freedom and experimentation in many parts of Japanese culture. Fashion was not immune to the invigorating atmosphere that prevailed, and, although Western fabrics and dress were popular, especially in among the affluent in urban areas, innovations in fabric production in Japan itself also brought new and appealing products to the marketplace. Some of these textiles, several of which had been developed earlier in the century and begun to be mass-produced by 1912, were especially well-suited to traditional …

The Colour Of Women’S Culture: Natural Dyeing As Self-Expression In America, Japan, Norway And Australia, Karen Diadick Casselman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Natural dyes are currently undergoing a revival in craft and academic circles. The resurgence of attention is due to several factors. One is the popularity of natural dyes among European textile historians, dye chemists, and archaeologists, all of whom rely on natural dyes as an academic and educational tool. Scholars worldwide have developed a rigorous cultural context for natural dyes that embraces disparate fields such as clothing and textiles, religion and philosophy, nineteenth-century medicine, and as curious as it may seem, eighth-century Irish law. Other prominent themes in natural dyeing today are contemporary aspects of gender, ecology, and ethics. Art …

Mending As Metaphor: Contemporary Fiber And Cultural Change, Mary Babcock

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

I grew up predominantly in a context of privilege and protection, with a goodly smattering of denial and despair. I remember as a child sitting in my mother’s sewing room watching her mend socks wondering why – like the other kids—I couldn’t just get new socks instead. It wasn’t until later, far past the time those stitches became the soul-saving sutures of the permanent vest my mother stitched across my beloved stuffed rabbit’s chest, that I realized those mending stitches reflected an act of care – of preserving and mending relationship.

Like many, I live in a world of contradiction, …

People, Place, Spirit, Denise Ava Robinson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

My name is Denise Ava Robinson. I am Tasmanian, often referred to as a Tasmanian Aboriginal Artist. Others question or ‘challenge’ me on being Aboriginal. Almost daily I raise this question myself. I have no simple answer. In the words of Henry Reynolds “There is no easy, nor a collective answer to the question of Aboriginality…. such identification should not be undertaken lightly”1 In Barry Lopez’s Arctic Dreams he refers to a quote by Peter Schledermann: “Everything we are is in our spirit. In archaeology, you are examining the long line of what we are” My paternal ancestry is Aboriginal, …

From Construction To Ritual Function: An Exploration Of New Guinea Fiber Masterworks, Jill D’Alessandro, Christina Hellmich

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The island of New Guinea is fringed by many small islands to the east. The west portion of the island, called Papua or West Papua, is politically part of Indonesia. The narrow Torres Strait separates New Guinea from Australia to the south. Physical features have profoundly and diversely shaped the lives of people living there for over fifty thousand years. The natural world, supernatural world and the rituals surrounding life’s passages, inspired the creation of the Jolika Collection works we explore today. They are complex compositions layered with imagery and meaning. Designs and motifs are often specific to clans and …

Black Silk, Brown Silk: China And Beyond—Fabric Analysis, Margaret T. Ordoñez

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A piece of unusual fabric that is shiny black on one side and red-brown on the other laid unidentified among the Chinese textiles in the University of Rhode Island (URI) Historic Textile and Costume Collection for over half a century. Abby Lillethun’s interest in analyzing mud silks brought this cloth, identified as Xiang-yun-shā, from obscurity to notoriety. Its most obvious feature is the two-colored surfaces created by first dyeing the fabric and then coating one side with black mud as described in the preceding papers by Lillethun and Lin.

The selvage of the URI fabric, seen from the backside in …

A New Start: Re-Thinking The Display And Interpretation Of African Textiles At The Detroit Institute Of Arts, Howard Sutcliffe

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

When the DIA began implementing its renovation, restoration, and expansion project in 2001, its objective was to make essential upgrades to the Museum’s aging facility, improve traffic flow and way-finding patterns and increase gallery space. The enormous task of the building project presented the unprecedented opportunity for the Museum to reshape the visitor experience, not only through an upgraded building and new amenities, but also by rethinking how to present its world-class collection to the public.

More than 5,000 works of art have been reinstalled in some 150,000 square feet of gallery space in a way that allows visitors …

About Tsa

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

TSA Board of Directors 2006 - 2008

Officers

Directors at Large

Task Representatives

TSA Board of Directors 2008 – 2010

Officers

Directors at Large

Task Representatives

TSA Past Presidents

TSA Publications

Notes On Editing, Ann Svenson Perlman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The manuscripts contained in this digital proceedings CD-ROM have been edited by formatting in MSWord to comply with the TSA 11th Biennial Symposium 2008: Digital Print Manuscript Guidelines while maintaining the substance of each presentation as submitted. Each paper was edited to a standard visual style of presentation. In very few cases manuscripts were edited for clarity and understanding as a written document for English readers. European and British English spellings and foreign words and markings were not changed or removed. Images were sized to fit the 10 page limit and no images were rejected. Authors retain copyright for their …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 29 (2008), Laurel Horton, Susan Price Miller, Aimee E. Newell, Sue C. Cummings, Marin F. Hanson, Arlesa J. Shephard, Loretta B. Chase

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Laurel Horton

The Circuit Rider's Quilt: Reality and Romance by Susan Price Miller

More than Warmth: Gift Quilts by Aging Women in Antebellum America by Aimee E. Newell

Irene Post: Quilt Artist and Neighbor of Bertha Stenge by Sue C. Cummings

Modern, Yet Anti-Modern: Two Sides of Late-Nineteenthand Early-Twentieth-Century Quiltmaking by Marin F. Hanson

Quilts for McKinley: Women's Involvement in Politics by Arlesa J. Shephard

Quilts in Transition: A Study of Strafford County, New Hampshire, Probate Inventories by Loretta B. Chase

Contributors

Index

Oil & Water, Miranda Allbritten

School of Art, Art History, and Design: Theses and Student Creative Work

I am interested in subtleties and the understated, the trace of impact and the slight of presence. As the ability to accurately recall past experiences lessens with time, we are left with an outline, a shadow, a hint of sensation that may have, at once, been thorough and exhaustive. How experience is lost and then reinvented, how subtle but specific changes in tone, expression and movement linger and reinvent themselves in memory, are motivating elements in my work. The paradox between an encounter and the recollection or reinvention of that encounter is at the core of my investigation, both in …

Paintings, Michael Burton

School of Art, Art History, and Design: Theses and Student Creative Work

In my current work I explore process and my fascination vvith human flesh by using the physical nature of paint as an equivalency for images and surfaces. I am fascinated vvith how nesh can have different quaitities. It can be brittle, rough, or smooth, it can form calluses and it can change color. Paint has these same quaUties. When I see peeling skin on my body, it reminds me of peeling paint and I find it hard to resist touching either surface . Ideas for images are generated by examining my nesh for cuts, wrinkles or boney protrusions or by …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 19:3 — Fall 2007, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Algerian Conservation Project—"One, Two, Three, Viva Algerie!"
President's Letter
Symposium 2008 Plans—TSA 11th Biennial Symposium, Textiles as Cultural Expressions, Honolulu, Hawaii
TSA News
TSA Member News
Collections News
Opportunities
Exhibition Reviews
Book Reviews
Publications News
Calendar: Exhibitions, Lectures, Workshops, Tours
Conferences and Symposia
Nomination Form for TSA Board of Directors
TSA 11th Biennial Symposium 2008 logo

Blanket Statements, Issue 89, Fall 2007

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 89, Fall 2007

Blanket Statements, Issue 88, Summer 2007

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 88, Summer 2007

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 19:2 — Spring/Summer 2007, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

"Miao Children's Dress"
President's Letter
TSA News
TSA Member News
Call for Papers TSA Symposium 2008—Textiles as Cultural Expressions
Symposium 2008 Plans
Featured Collection—The Erikson Carpet Collection, Nickle Arts Museum, University of Calgary, Alberta
Exhibition Reviews
Funding News
Education News
Publications News
Calendar: Exhibitions, Lectures, Workshops, Tours
Conferences and Symposia
Collections News

Blanket Statements, Issue 87, Spring 2007

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 87, Spring 2007

Exhibition Review Of "Cosmophilia: Islamic Art From The David Collection, Copenhagen", Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

THIS EXHIBITION WAS organized by the Isabella V. McMullen Museum of Art at Boston College. It is accompanied by a catalogue of the same title published in 2006 by Sheila S. Blair and Jonathan M. Bloom, who also seived as curators, selecting objects in collaboration with the David Collection. The exhibition contains more than I 00 outstanding objects of Islamic art and includes more than 20 significant textiles, which represent diverse geographic origins (Yemen, Spain, India, Egypt, Central Asia, Turkey and Iran); with dates ranging from the 7th through the 19th centuries. Linen, cotton, wool and silk, traditional textile materials, …

Vanishing Points, Deformed Planes, Negative Spaces, Empty Solids And Topological Genius – Or, How I Got Lost In Bilbao, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Midsummer’s green along the flanks of the Pyrenees in Basque country welcomed us as we drove from Donostia (San Sebastian) west to Gernika and Bilbao. The mountains to the south physically separate this area of northern Spain from the rest of the Iberian Peninsula. To the north lies the Atlantic with its vast expanse of water, gentle waves lapping at the shore. The mountain slopes here are profoundly uplifted and folded – nature’s deformations of the plane – and the steep valleys and rushing rivers exhibit visible geometric perspectives of geological forms. To be here in summer makes one especially …

Structure And Properties Of Chicken Feather Barbs As Natural Protein Fibers, Narendra Reddy, Yiqi Yang

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Faculty Publications

The structure and properties of chicken feather barbs makes them unique fibers preferable for several applications. The presence of hollow honeycomb structures, their low density, high flexibility and possible structural interaction with other fibers when made into products such as textiles provides them unique properties unlike any other natural or synthetic fibers. No literature is available on the physical structure and tensile properties of chicken feather barbs. In this study, we report the physical and morphological structure and the properties of chicken feather barbs for potential use as natural protein fibers. The morphological structure of chicken feather barbs is similar …

Blanket Statements, Issue 90, Winter 2008

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 90, Winter 2008

Beautiful Objects, Jenni Brant

School of Art, Art History, and Design: Theses and Student Creative Work

I believe that the experience of beauty is important for its ability to inspire reflective contemplation. Beautiful things have the power to arrest our attention, to take over our consciousness and move us to new places in unexpected ways. Beauty has the power to make us more aware of the present moment, more aware of those we are sharing it with, and of the consequences of our actions. The experience of beautiful objects is an enriching and necessary facet of human existence. My work is life affirming and reminds us to celebrate the ordinary as well as the extraordinary: the …

Self, Justin D. Shaw

School of Art, Art History, and Design: Theses and Student Creative Work

am proud of my traditions. My work is a conglomeration of my life 's worth of teachings and skills. I see my past in my sculpture, not specific events or dates, but periods of developmental growth. I respond to my surroundings being either location or company. These reflect in my actions and attitude, and although humorous in some regards, items like clothing and other subject matter are closely related to my upbringing and were fundamental in my development as an artist and a person. My interest in the figure comes from our natural ability to relate to other human beings, …

Textile Society Of America 19:1 — Winter 2007, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

"Lillian Elliott Award Presented at TSA Symposium"
Symposium 2006 Wrap-Up—"textile narratives + conversations"
President's Letter
TSA News
Symposium 2006 Reports
TSA Member News
Exhibition Reviews
Collections News
Calendar: Exhibitions, Lectures, Workshops
Calls for Papers
Conferences and Symposia
TSA Symposium 2008 Attractions

Painting Music: Rhythm And Movement In Art, Sharon L. Kennedy

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

In the past 100 years music has played a tremendously important role in the stylistic development of visual art. It has created impetus and inspiration for those artists wishing to produce a pure and transcendental art form. Music has also been used as an analogy or metaphor in artistic expression. By listening to music and emulating it in their work, artists have discovered unconventional techniques in their art-making approach. Painting Music: Rhythm and Movement in Art explores the influence of music on the visual arts beginning in the early 20th century with the Russian artist Wassily Kandinsky and continuing with …

Seasonal Celebrations, Daily Life: Photographs By Graciela Iturbide, Sharon Kennedy

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

The photographs in Seasonal Celebrations, Daily Life highlight the work by contemporary Mexican photographer Graciela Iturbide. Early in Iturbide's artistic career she studied with Mexico's preeminent photographer Manuel Alvarez Bravo. Several of his photographs selected from the Sheldon Memorial Art Gallery's permanent collection are also on view.

The exhibition focuses on Iturbide's photographs of the people of Juchitan, a Zapotec community in Oaxaca. She created this portfolio over a six-year period beginning in 1979. Here she earned the trust of the people she photographed by living among them and participating in their daily life and festivities. Iturbide gravitated toward the …

From Folding And Cutting To Geometry And Algorithms: Integrating Islamic Art Into The Mathematics Curriculum, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Drawing upon visual forms of expression prevalent in Islamic arts and architecture, this workshop offers handson experience for understanding basic concepts in geometry, with reference to algorithms in processes of patternmaking. Art teachers and math educators may learn a variety of strategies for classroom teaching, adaptable for K-12, to acquaint students with principles underlying patterns in Islamic art. Such patterns relate to the history of mathematics at a time when Baghdad was an intellectually vibrant center of patronage, and al-Khwarezmi was engaged in the development of what we now call algebra and algorithms. Students may explore these ideas through their …