Art and Design Commons^™

Behind The Scenes In Museum Collecting: The Destinies Of Henry Wellcome’S Pre-Hispanic Textiles, Penelope Dransart

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

In this article, I explore the sale of pre-Hispanic textiles from Andean countries, especially Peru, demonstrating networks between collectors, auction houses and researchers. Sir Henry S. Wellcome (1856-1936) was a North American pharmaceutical entrepreneur. After transferring his commercial interests to London in 1880, he bought textiles and other antiquities at auctions. I outline the activities of Wellcome staff in registering the textiles in Wellcome’s store at Willesden, London. Textiles which preserve Wellcome labels now in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, University of Cambridge, and the National Museums of Liverpool are described. I examine the case of a distinctive Wari …

Inka Khipus, Thread Wrappings And Subject Markers, Lucrezia Milillo

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

This work aims to contribute to our current understanding of how information was organized in khipus, Andean colourful knotted cords used as writing. If the idea that khipu signs could work as a flow chart was common in the last two decades, it is not until the notion of kayte as subject marker was elaborated by Sabine Hyland on the basis of Julio C. Tello's notes that the theory could be discussed on more empirical grounds. So far, the term “kayte” applied to needlework bundles, pompons or tufts attached to the beginning of the primary cord. In this work, the …

El Traje Ceremonial De Los Samilantes, Olga Liliana Sulca, Enrique Oscar Cifre Kargachin

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

En la Puna salto jujeña (extremo noroeste de Argentina), se celebran todos los años una serie de festividades que vinculan la tradición católica con una serie de rituales, cuyos orígenes tienen profundas raíces prehispánicas. En estas celebraciones se entrelazan música, atuendos, danzas y ceremonias. Una de esas expresiones sincréticas es la denominada Danza del Suri. Sus participantes, también llamados samilantes o “plumudos” se destacan por el uso de un particular atavío, cuya finalidad tiene como objetivo encarnar el aspecto y la conducta del suri o ñandú cordillerano (ave no voladora) que se extiende por el área cordillerana desde el altiplano …

Un Rompecabezas Textil En Las Colecciones Del Mudec: Conservación Y Exposición De Una Prenda Chuquibamba, Carolina Orsini, Cinzia Oliva

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

En este artículo presentamos las estrategias adoptadas para conservar un textil de estilo Chuquibamba procedente del mercado anticuario. La pieza había sido reconstruida al azar para darle un aspecto “integro” y facilitar su venta. Las intervenciones permitieron reconstruir su aspecto original y proponer una hipótesis sobre su función.

In this paper we present the strategies adopted to conserve a Chuquibamba textile circulating in the antique market. The piece had been reconstructed randomly to give it an “intact” appearance and facilitate its sale. The interventions made it possible to reconstruct its original appearance and to do some conjectures about its function.

El Horizonte Medio En Huacas De Moche: Naturaleza De La Ocupación Post-Mochica En Huaca Del Sol (C. 800-1000 D.C.), Lizbeth Pariona, Carlos Rengifo, Moisés Tufinio

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

Este artículo presenta los resultados del análisis estilístico y de técnicas de manufactura de un grupo de textiles recuperados en contextos funerarios correspondientes a la segunda mitad del Horizonte Medio (800-1000 d.C.) excavados en el edificio conocido como Huaca del Sol, en el sitio Huacas de Moche de la costa peruana. Estos materiales orgánicos presentan características que permiten la identificación de rasgos del estilo Mochica local junto con estilos foráneos, lo que ayuda a una mejor comprensión de las interacciones culturales en el sitio durante este singular periodo. Los resultados de este estudio brindan, además, nuevos detalles sobre las características …

Moche-Wari Textiles From Huaca Del Sol, Moche Influence In The Middle Horizon, Amy Oakland

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

This paper analyzes a selection of textiles excavated in 2013 in the destroyed late Middle Horizon (AD 800-1000) cemetery on Huaca del Sol, Huacas de Moche in the Moche Valley of northern Peru. The Huaca Sol textile group was woven with local, Moche style S-spun cotton yarns between AD 888-1050, calibrated radiocarbon dates along with a small number of Wari textiles, late Moche and Wari ceramics and ceramics in Casma and Cajamarca styles. Textile structure and design provide the basis for reconstruction into complete garment types known to other Middle Horizon collections on the central and southern coast where Moche …

An Examination Of An Inka(?) Aksu In The Collections Of The Textile Museum, Shelley Burian

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

This paper presents the preliminary results and conclusions from an examination of an exceedingly rare example of a weft-face and tapestry-woven aksu in the collections of The Textile Museum. Patterned with figurative butterflies, the garment closely resembles those depicted by Felipe Guaman Poma de Ayala in several of his illustrations of ceremonies and elite women. Its features present challenges for determining its dates and the level of social status it represents or confers. The similarity between the aksu’s butterflies and those in a checkerboard unku in the Field Museum provides suggestive evidence for its use in an official state setting. …

Evidencias De Tecnología Textil En Un Basural Del Santuario De Pachacamac, Rommel Angeles Falcón, Susana Abad, Janet Oshiro

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

Recientes excavaciones arqueológicas en el santuario arqueológico de Pachacamac, valle de Lurín, Costa Central del Perú, permitieron identificar un denso basural del período Inca (Siglos XV-XVI) que contenía una importante cantidad de elementos relacionados a la actividad textil: husos, piruros, ovillos, espadas, estacas y peines, entre otros que permiten visualizar la cadena operativa que se realizaba en el santuario de Pachacamac.

Recent archaeological investigations in the archeological site of Pachacamac (Lurin Valley, Central Coast of Peru) allowed us to identify a dense Inca garbage dump (XV-XVI centuries) that contained an important amount of textile artifacts: spindles, piruros, balls, swords, stakes …

Inka Interaction At Caleta Vitor, Northern Chile: Evidence From Archaeological Textiles, Tracy Martens

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

Our understanding of Inka expansion continues to develop with new research further cementing the idea that the Inka’s expansionary tactics were targeted and agile, specifically enacted to achieve coercive control over populations, resources, and specialist craft expertise. The nature of Inka influence at Caleta Vitor has not yet been established, however, the data now strongly suggest that the population was entangled in a complex negotiated process commonly undertaken by the Inka in new territories. This paper contributes to our understanding of Inka interaction at Caleta Vitor with new data from archaeological textiles that demonstrate Caleta Vitor’s Imperial connections.

Nuestra comprensión …

Entre Lo Simbólico Y Lo Material. Textiles Moche Para La Eternidad, Arabel Fernández López

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

Una revisión de distintas evidencias materiales provenientes principalmente de contextos funerarios de personajes de la élite gobernante mochica, así como de las imágenes plasmadas en la cerámica, metales y arte mural policromo, dejan entrever aspectos poco conocidos sobre el rol que cumplió la textilería en esta sociedad (100 – 850 d. C.), revelando una serie de temas simbólicos vinculados a los mitos y ritos que formaron parte de la cosmovisión andina mochica que, además, se fundieron con la propuesta ideológica impuesta por la clase gobernante. Las evidencias y contextos registrados durante las excavaciones arqueológicas permiten sostener que, en los distintos …

La Representación De Los Seres Voladores En Tejidos Ceremoniales Tiwanaku, Elisa Cont

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

Este estudio iconográfico e iconológico se propone analizar la representación de una particular tipología de seres antropo-zoomorfos en la cultura Tiwanaku mediante una investigación transdisciplinaria, que incluye estudios de arqueología, antropología, semiótica y estética. Algunos seres antropo-zoomorfos con atributos de aves, felinos, cérvidos y llamas estarían representados flotando en sentido horizontal, y simbolizarían el chamán en su estado de trance, realizando su viaje mágico, a través del consumo de unas substancias psicoactivas. Los artistas tiwanakotas por medio de las imágenes de “seres voladores” reflejarían unos principios acerca de su cosmovisión, y revelarían el rol fundamental que algunas experiencias mágicos-religiosas ejercían …

Las Warakas (Hondas) De Arena Blanca, Cerro Colorado Y Wari Kayan En La Península De Paracas: Nuevos Datos E Interpretaciones, Jessica Lévy Contreras, Ann H. Peters

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

Las hondas o warakas halladas en la Península de Paracas, contextos mortuorios que datan del final del Formativo Tardío a inicios del Periodo Intermedio Temprano, 400 a.C. – 250 d.C., ofrecen datos inéditos para entender mejor su confección, uso y función simbólica. A partir del estudio de los registros gráficos y fotográficos de las excavaciones de la tumba T.27 en Arena Blanca, realizadas por Engel y Bischof en 1959, hemos desarrollado un nuevo estudio de sus materiales, tanto para la recuperación de los datos como para su puesta en valor, teniendo en cuenta las problemáticas arqueológicas actuales. Hemos comparado los …

Textiles Y Plumas. Documentación Y Conservación De La Colección Etnográfica Del Museo De Farmacobotánica Juan A. Domínguez, Facultad De Farmacia Y Bioquímica De La Universidad De Buenos Aires (Argentina), Silvana Di Lorenzo, Lucila Pesoa, Cecilia Pérez De Micou, María Del Carmen Toribio

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

El museo de Fármacobotánica “Juan A. Domínguez” preserva una interesante colección etnográfica de textiles y plumaria procedente de varias regiones de Argentina, Bolivia y Paraguay. En este trabajo presentamos el estado de avance de la investigación, documentación y conservación preventiva en referencia al patrimonio recolectado en la región del Gran Chaco. Mediante este proyecto independiente de investigación y conservación nuestro objetivo es dar a conocer esta colección inédita para preservarla, ponerla en valor y propender a su visualización.

The “Juan A. Domínguez” Pharmacobotanical Museum preserves an interesting ethnographic collection of textiles and feathers form various regions of Argentina, Bolivia and …

Metamorfosis Del Huipil De Chicahuaxtla A Través Del Tiempo, Yatahli Otilia Rosas Sandoval, Hector Manuel Meneses Lozano

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on Pre-Columbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022.

El estudio sistemático de los tejidos que resguardan los museos suelen realizarse por personas ajenas a las comunidades de origen de dichas piezas. Este trabajo presenta un acercamiento entre el Colectivo Llana Huaricnn conformado por tejedoras de la localidad de San Andrés Chicahuaxtla en Oaxaca, México, y el Museo Textil de Oaxaca, con la intención de mirar en conjunto las características técnicas de un grupo de huipiles resguardados tanto por el Colectivo, como por el Museo. El trabajo en conjunto permitió desarrollar una ficha técnica que incluyera información relevante para ambas partes involucradas. El resultado final permite cuestionar las prácticas …

Body. Freedom. Choice: Creating Artwork In Post-Roe America, Erin Sedra

MSU Graduate Theses

I knew from a young age that I never wanted children. Whenever I expressed my disinterest in motherhood, I was often met with bewilderment, disapproval, and hostility. The church I was raised in taught me that my value and worth as a woman directly correlated with the power of my birthing hips. This fundamentalist upbringing has significantly shaped my relationship with my femininity, my body, and my artwork. When I feel powerless, turning to my art gives me a sense of control and self-expression. This body of work began as a reaction to the overturning of Roe v. Wade and …

Fear Of God: Exploring Transformative Potential, Misunderstanding, Systemic Challenges, And The Future., Jermaine Ollivierre

Theses and Dissertations

This personal journey is a testament to the transformative power of play within my practice. It is a love story between me and the institution, sparked by my fervor for communal creativity in a graduate school environment. Through creative endeavors like public art installations and silent artist talks, I confront racial dynamics and institutional reluctance to engage with complex issues like Black Lives Matter. My personal experiences of alienation are woven into the broader themes of community building, communication, and systemic change. I navigate the complexities of group mentality and exclusion by deliberately using unconventional forms of expression, such as …

Art Of Aging – A Portraiture Study, Alaina Mann

Theses/Capstones/Creative Projects

The process of aging can be viewed through different lenses within our society. In the past, scientists and medical professionals performed various studies to better understand and analyze different facets of aging, medicine, and health in general. Historically the arts have reflected multiple aspects of medicine and treatments while more recently, the arts have been used in a research capacity to provide different ways to represent illness, suffering, and care. This study used art-based research methods and portraiture to gather qualitative observations on the older populations within our community. Data collected included drawings, a field journal, and interviews. This study …

Sustainable Packaging For Sundae School, Emiko L. Visscher

Graphic Communication

Sundae School is a relatively new and creative brand producing cannabis products and smoke wear clothing. Sundae School has made an impression within the market due to their strong brand identity that translates through their packaging and design choices. I have decided to create two versions of an alternative package design for their line of Mochi gummy edibles. Their current packaging is purposeful, but I plan to design focused around minimizing packaging waste and utilizing sustainable packaging materials while keeping their brand identity at the forefront.

The Research And Treatment Of A Qing Dynasty Garment From The Buffalo Museum Of Science, Nhat Quyen D. Nguyen

Art Conservation Master's Projects

The scope of this project was to research, analyze and treat a sleeveless garment from the Buffalo Museum of Science that is thought to be originally from China. The sleeveless garment was donated to the museum by Chauncey J. Hamlin and little information is known about the context or origin of the garment. Research was conducted to gain historical information about the type of garment and why it was made. Analysis was conducted on the fibers, metal wrapped threads and dyes to identify the materials used. The garment was treated with a heat activated adhesive support patch to stabilize the …

Limitations And Possibilities Of Digital Restoration Techniques Using Generative Ai Tools: Reconstituting Antoine François Callet’S Achilles Dragging Hector’S Body Past The Walls Of Troy, Charles O'Brien, James Hutson, Trent Olsen, Jay Ratican

Faculty Scholarship

Digital restoration offers new avenues for conserving historical artworks, yet presents unique challenges. This research delves into the balance between traditional restoration methods and the use of generative artificial intelligence (AI) tools, using Antoine François Callet’s portrayal of Achilles Dragging Hector’s Body Past the Walls of Troy as a case study. The application of Easy Diffusion and Stable Diffusion 2.1 technologies provides insights into AI-driven restoration methods such as inpainting and colorization. Results indicate that while AI can streamline the restoration process, repeated inpainting can compromise the painting’s color quality and detailed features. Furthermore, the AI approach occasionally introduces unintended …

Programa De La Conferencia Segundo Congreso Internacional De Iconografía Precolombina

Segundo congreso internacional de iconografía precolombina. Barcelona, 2023. Actas.

Barcelona, 2023.

Victòria Solanilla, organizador

17 al 20 de octubre de 2023.

En el Museu de Cultures del Món de Barcelona. Calle Montcada, nº12-14, 08003, Barcelona.

Y en el Institut d’Estudis Catalans. Calle del Carme, nº 47, 08001, Barcelona.

Organizado por el GRUP d'ESTUDIS PRECOLOMBINS· con el apoyo del MUSEU ETNOLÒGIC I DE CULTURES DEL MÓN· INSTITUT D'ESTUDIS CATALANS· SOCIETAT CATALANA D'ESTUDIS HISTÒRICS

Les Trésors De La Maison, Or L’Amour Maternel: The Technical Study And Treatment Of Previously-Restored Painting, Katherine C. Aguirre

Art Conservation Master's Projects

“Mother and Children” is a painting belonging to the collection of the Garman Art Conservation Program at SUNY Buffalo State College. The painting depicts a seated woman with light skin and dark hair and two children. The painting was damaged in the past, and the image was obscured by thick layers of grime and oxidized varnish. It had also been previously treated on at least two occasions. A full technical analysis and conservation treatment was completed. The methods of analysis included multi-modal imaging, x-radiography, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy, and cross-sectional analysis. The goal of the analysis was …

A Lifetime Of Stress: Analysis And Treatment Of An Inlaid Chinese Box, Katherine Mcfarlin

Art Conservation Master's Projects

Inlaid wooden objects are complex and intricate mixed media assemblages that can provide significant challenges to the conservator, as the properties of the individual materials can conflict and complicate treatment options. For example, traditional inlay materials such as ivory and mother-of-pearl are particularly susceptible to shifts in moisture and acidity, and the hygroscopic nature of historic proteinaceous adhesives can exacerbate dimensional changes in the surrounding wood. This paper describes the research and subsequent treatment to stabilize and restore a Qing dynasty wooden tabletop chest inlaid with ivory, mother-of-pearl, and various siliceous minerals. A combination of adhesive failure along multiple joints …

Technical Analysis And Treatment Of A Folk Art Portrait Of A Boy, Khanh P. Nguyen

Art Conservation Master's Projects

This Master’s Project is a multidisciplinary technical study and conservation treatment of Portrait of a Boy, a 19th century oil painting on canvas and thought to be an example of the American Folk Art movement. Research into Folk Art traditions was executed to inform the context of the artwork. Comprehensive imaging and scientific analyses provided additional historical and material context for the painting. The painting was imaged with the following techniques: visible illumination, ultraviolet (UV) reflectography, ultraviolet-induced visible fluorescence, infrared reflectography, visible-induced infrared (IR) luminescence, x-radiography, and multispectral imaging (MSI). Scientific and materials analyses included: optical microscopy of fiber …

Women's Work: The Sublime Is Now, Michelle Blackstone

MFA in Visual Arts Theses

What influences the lens through which we view art and the value we ascribe to it? This paper investigates the ways in which the historically gendered philosophy of “The Sublime,” a lack of institutional access, and traditionally gendered materials have acted as impediments for women in the arts. Discussion is given to the ways that masculine rhetoric in terms of “The Sublime” prevented women from attaining what was once considered the highest level of artistic achievement. Further attention is given to obstructions female artists face(d) in terms of gaining intuitional access within the art world. Finally, I examine the ways …

Tracing As Process, Lesley Su

Masters Theses

Tracing is a way to observe, document and translate, to be anchored in the physical working, to find personal occupancy in the built environment.

By establishing one-to-one relationships with the physical context, tracing enables us to comprehend objects in multiple dimensions. Through tracing, we can explore how two-dimensional drawings can be transformed into three-dimensional objects, and vice versa, objects can be documented through drawing to capture the essence of reality.

Based on materials and motion, research on tracing techniques guides me into how tracing could act as a process of art and architecture practice.

Margins (I Nvr Needed Acceptance From All U Outsiders), Jahi Lendor

Masters Theses

A comedian said, “American pie isn’t made out of apples, it’s made out of whatever you can get your fucking hands on.”1 With that, my work seeks to provide an honest representation of the infinite value of the everydayness and behavior of blackness ranging from trauma to beauty. Various mediums explore culture, class, collective memory, identity, and erasure. While resisting institutional and systemic boundaries between disciplines my practice actively seeks fluidity between media. The work often translates to (social) poetic-bricolage visualizations that combine gestures of assemblage, sculpture, installation, and painting. The work focuses on reflecting on how I see life …

Making Then Meaning, Ben Denzer

Masters Theses

This is an artist talk contained within a book. It is 816 pages and 49 minutes long. Closed captions run across the spreads. A video of this talk can be watched on bendenzer.com/making-then-meaning

At RISD, I’ve been prompted to expand the scope and tools of my practice and to reflect on questions of meaning in my work.

I spend my days making things, but I’ve never really had good answers to questions of why I make the things I make, or what their meaning is. I don’t think there are simple answers to these questions.

I think meaning comes from …

Moving In, Moving Up, Moving On : The Adaptation And Preservation Of Chinese Diasporas Through Food, Jieqi Yao

Masters Theses

Moving In, Moving Up, Moving On explores the processes of Chinese culture and space in America of adaptation, assimilation, and preservation that underlie food changes. As Chinatowns across the US have evolved and residents have relocated, former centers of Chinese cultural identity have progressively transformed into restaurant districts with increasingly diverse populations and space gentrification.

The thesis argues that food is central to preserving cultural memory and reducing the generation divide. In the context of the Chinese diaspora transformation, culture has changed food in different spaces, and it gives people more choices to acquire and exchange information and values through …

Militure, Bingdong Duan

Masters Theses

The aim of this research is to explore how individual soldier equipment can be systematically integrated into everyday life. War, as the epitome of struggle and conflict, stimulates the fundamental human instinct for survival. To achieve this end, various methods involving a wide range of fields such as technology, culture, economy, and politics are utilized. Under the driving force of survival, explorations are conducted in various areas, with individual soldier equipment being notably prominent. Nations spend a substantial amount each year on developing individual soldier equipment, which optimizes functionality to such an extent that it has formed its unique aesthetics …