Art and Design Commons^™

Study Of Fashion And Politics, Jacqueline Arena

Library Award for Outstanding Undergraduate Research

The purpose of this research is to analyze the way fashion has been used as a vessel for

political statements; specifically through studying the work of artists Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander Mcqueen and Vivienne Westwood. Gaultier and Mcqueen showcased shocking collections that caught the public eye by testing gender boundaries and reflecting historical events. Westwood’s work was a protest, and she was an activist. The sources included highlight the success of these unique designers. Furthermore, the research evaluates how political statements by fashion designers have become harmful because today newer designers are vying for the success of trailblazers such as …

The Role Of Worker-Driven Regulation In The Global Fashion Industry, Jessie Wills

Independent Study Project (ISP) Collection

The global fashion industry continues to exploit workers at the bottom of its supply chains. Multinational brands pressure manufacturers to churn out products at increasingly fast rates for increasingly cheaper costs. Severe problems persist in enforcing labor standards in these factories, and methods like voluntary corporate social responsibility are aspirational at best. A newer method of enforcement, worker-driven regulation (WDR), shows promise in its improved enforceability methods and focus on worker voices. The main research question of this paper is: What are the conditions that trigger and sustain worker-driven regulation at the factory level in the apparel industry?

Research methods …

Exploring The Influence Of Globalization And Self-Expression In Shaping The Vietnamese Lgbtq+ Community In Urban Vietnam, Minh-Thy Tyler

Independent Study Project (ISP) Collection

The LGBTQ+ community is estimated to make up around 9% to 11% of Vietnam’s total population. Over the past few decades, Vietnam has undergone significant changes, marked by its increasing interconnectedness with the global community. These changes have also brought about a shift in perceptions and advocacy toward the LGBTQ+ community. Also bringing along a change in attitude towards the LGBTQ+ community in Vietnam is self-expression and fashion. Through drag or wearing gender-nonconforming attire, queer individuals are able to challenge the restrictive gender binary prevalent in Vietnamese society. Self-expression and fashion are also critical in helping queer individuals form and …

A Comparative Life Cycle Assessment Of Cork Versus Traditional Shoe Insole Material, Alexandra Lum

Independent Study Project (ISP) Collection

Shoes are conventionally produced from materials like plastic or rubber that have detrimental impacts on the environment such as exacerbating existing waste accumulation, increasing global amounts of greenhouse gasses, or releasing toxic chemicals into soils and groundwater. These impacts have pushed footwear companies to introduce more sustainable and ecologically-friendly materials in their products. Roughly half of all cork production occurs in Portugal. The present work employs a comparative life cycle assessment approach between traditional plastic and rubber insole material and cork insole material to investigate the environmental impact of each. Results show that during each stage of the insole life …

Romantic And Victorian Era: Fashion Reimagined, Sara E. Pacheco

Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

This venture was about reimaginations of the Romantic and Victorian era fashion through the person of Audrey Hepburn, a famous 1960’s Movie star. The Romantic and Victorian eras were chosen because of their similarities and the beauty of those eras in expressing femininity for women. The colors served as a main source of inspiration because they conveyed a feminine vintage feel for the garments. Additionally, inspiration was drawn from the patterns and textures of fabric, especially silk textiles whose satin finish complemented the shiny, smooth, and silky feel of the fabrics. The reimagined fashion images on display illustrate how a …

African American Fashion Legacies, Yasmeen Orozco

Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

This was an exploration of how African American Designers, former and current have contributed to fashion legacies. Key points that will be presented will be – brief biographies of seven African American designers, that covers their upbringing, education, and their fashion legacies. The seven fashion designers that will be discussed include - Patrick Kelly, Willie Smith, Anna Lowe, Stephine Burrows, Laquan Smith, Dapper Dan, and Zelda Wynn Valdes.

The study further features fashion trends that originated from the African American community. Notably, African Americans have been a pioneering force with creative styles that have been ignored and rebutted. Finally, the …

A Modern Twist Based On The 17th Century And Victorian Era, Kenzie Styles

Belmont University Research Symposium (BURS)

This project was an exploration of the 17th Century and Victorian styles with a modern twist to suit Cher, who is an iconic famous signer and actress, in her teens and early 20s. Most of the inspiration for the designs was taken from undergarments and silhouettes inspired by both eras. As well as light feminine colors inspired by the eras, combined with dark greens and blues to create a modern effect. Details of the garments include lace and embroidery inspired by the artwork of the 17th century.

Ornamentalism: Costuming And The Portrayal Of The Chinese Woman In Film, 20th-21st Century, Andrea Yepez

Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects

This thesis aims to analyze the concept of “Ornamentalism,” a term created by Anne Anlin Cheng. In Ornamentalism (2019), Cheng proposes the term—a combination of Orientalism and ornament—as a new way to study Asiatic femininity. Cheng applies the term to a case study of the career of Anna May Wong, the first Asian-American actress to feature in Hollywood films. Throughout her career, which began in the 1920s, Anna May Wong held the status of it-girl and muse to designers such as John Galliano. However, Wong was also subjected to playing stereotypical Asian roles in films and was consistently the victim …

Refashioning Style From The Outside-In: A Pakistani Diasporic Response, Sidra Sohail Khawaja

Theses and Dissertations

Pakistan’s traditionalists and modernists hold opposing political, religious, social and nationalist views creating a constant tension within the culture. This tension creates a fashion industry with two extremes, one side reflecting traditional influences and the other reflecting western trends. I address the tension by analysing the craft and context of traditional Pakistani men’s clothing and incorporating traditional construction techniques into garments that reflect aspects of both points of view. In a series of five looks, I extract from influences like Persian, North Indian, Afghani, Colonial and Neo-Colonial, to generate hybridized garments that offer a new perspective, blending traditional elements with …

Between Specificity And Myth: An Analysis Of Carlos Mérida's 'Mexican Costume', Sofia Ortega-Guerrero

Kaplan Senior Essay Prize for Use of Library Special Collections

Sitting evenly upon close-toothed paper, vivid pigments compose harmonies of color and form (Fig. 1). Lines of cerulean wiggle upon a velvety cobalt blue. Between crisp boundaries of ink, veins of the white folio carve out a lattice and tapered fringe to impart legibility: a striped, blue shawl generously cloaks a figure, who nearly disappears beneath her dress. Cinched by a violet-vermillion belt, three bunches of black and white pleats fold in rhythmic lines. A small, low-heeled shoe peeks from below the voluminous skirt, recalling the figure beneath the fabric. From the abundant shawl, a head emerges in profile with …

Us Buyers’ Behavior Towards Social Sustainable Certificates, Mehnaz Fatima Monamy

Graduate Theses, Dissertations, and Problem Reports

Growing awareness of the fashion industry's environmental footprint in terms of water and chemical use, carbon emissions, textile waste, energy usage, and water pollution has focused international attention on sustainability issues in apparel industries. To showcase their commitment to sustainability, many fashion companies turn to certifications and accreditations from third-party organizations. These certifications and accreditations not only help improve a company's performance and marketability but also give them an advantage over their competitors. US textile buyers are also becoming more selective in their purchasing decisions, looking for high-quality products that are produced in a sustainable and socially responsible manner. This …

From Fashion, To Violence, To A Forgotten Era: The Zoot Suit And Mexican-American Youth Culture In 1940’S America, Adelaide Iris Ord Treadwell

Senior Projects Spring 2023

Senior Project submitted to The Division of Social Studies of Bard College

Come To A Night In The Chapel And The Mall With Jackie Blue, Jackie Weddell

Senior Projects Spring 2023

My collection of garments and accessories being sold at The Mall was conceived in Southern Italy.

I visited the home of my ancestors in August of 2022 for the first time. Relatively early in my presenting feminine, I proved to be a spectacle for the places I visited and their inhabitants. Days filled with gawking, pointing, and yelling; the attention was not new to me, just in this case I couldn’t understand what my viewers were saying. Only at night, after the locals got drunk and the lights were dimmed did I sort of blend in with the other big-nosed …

From Fashion, To Violence, To A Forgotten Era: The Zoot Suit And Mexican-American Youth Culture In 1940’S America, Adelaide Iris Ord Treadwell

Senior Projects Spring 2023

Senior Project submitted to the Division of Social Studies of Bard College.

Nyfw Can't Handle Texture On The Runway, Treashure Lewis

Capstones

NYFW has seemingly made great strides over the years regarding inclusivity and diversity within its runway. But how are they accommodating the models of color that they are hiring? This year, unfortunately, black models are still showing up to runway sets in which the hair stylists hired do not know how to do their hair. This issue dates back to the reign of Naomi Campbell and still has yet to be resolved.

Link: https://brownlewiscapstone.wordpress.com/

The Bronx Solidifies Itself In The Fashion World With Borough-Based Nonprofit, Nicholas R. Hernandez, Demetria Osei-Tutu

Capstones

Bronx-born nonprofit organizer, Flora Montes, founded Bronx Fashion NYC in 2014. The organization aims to establish Bronx-centric fashion-event opportunities and better representation in an industry where access is often unattainable for people of color or of limited means—or who happen to come from the Bronx, a borough often perceived by some as un-chic despite boasting a culturally thriving history of innovation in both fashion and music.

With Bronx Fashion NYC, Montes is working on putting Bronx models and local designers on the map with multiple fashion shows and paving the way for the future with the addition of a start-up …

You Need This: Global Fast Fashion, Environment, And Consumption Culture, Alexandra Lamm

Student Work

In looking at how global production of clothing has increased and shifted, we see the impacts in places like workers rights, environmental issues and cultural consumption. Although vastly different, through examination we will see how all are intrinsically linked. We have reached a truly global economy, and even when threatened with negative consequences of mass consumption in our daily lives, the road to actual change in the fashion industry becomes harder in time due to our dependency on the industry as a whole.

Vivienne Westwood And The Socio-Political Nature Of Punk, Ashley Rosato

Honors College Theses

Punk fashion, which helped define the punk movement in the 1970s, has been ever changing as it adapts to modern times. Before it was the watered-down, mainstream mass-produced aesthetic that it is today, punk style was full of counterculture meaning and signs that communicated counter-hegemonic ideologies to the public. Vivienne Westwood, one of the contributors to early punk culture and the mother of British punk style, designed clothing that was central to the ethos of the early punk movement. Through a semiotic analysis of five of Westwood’s designs from the 1970s, this study aims to demonstrate how Westwood’s early punk …

Creating A 1940s Costume: A Historical Investigation, Jennifer Mott

The Confluence

The purpose of this Art History research investigation was to create a costume from the 1940s by immersing myself in a time period when people often made their own clothing. This was done to better understand what it means to have a personal connection to the items I wear. Our experiences as consumers in the twenty-first century are vastly different than those belonging to the people that lived during the mid-twentieth century because almost all of our clothing is purchased from corporations and created by people that we will likely never meet. For this investigative study, I shopped for and …

An Exploration Of The Black Female Cosplay Experience, Geneisa B. Ragin, Geneisa Ragin

Honors College Theses

Cosplay is the practice of dressing up as a fictional character whether it's from a television show, video games, or even a book series. Many people participate in cosplay to show their dedication or admiration for their favorite character and sometimes cosplay a character that helps reflect their own character or personality. This thesis will mainly focus on the experience of being a Black female cosplayer in pop culture, social media, conventions, and other places where people can share and communicate. In this thesis’s research, participants' answers about their experiences were centered around their inspiration to start cosplaying, their ways …

A Historical Overview And Description Of The University Of Kwazulu-Natal’S Ceremonial And Academic Attire, Andrew-John Bethke

Transactions of the Burgon Society

he University of KwaZulu-Natal was legally constituted in 2004 when the University of Natal was amalgamated with the University of Durban-Westville. In the early 2000s, the South African government sought to decrease the number of higher education institutions in the country from thirty-six to twenty-one through amalgamation. This article describes the process by which the current university developed its ceremonial and academic dress.

Peculiar And Proper Habits: The Use And Production Of Academic Dress In Colonial, Revolutionary, And Federal Philadelphia, Nicholas Heavens

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This is a study of the adoption and use of academic dress at the University of Pennsylvania and its predecessor institutions, the College of Philadelphia and University of the State of Pennsylvania from approximately 1750–1830. Despite early interest of the College’s founder, Benjamin Franklin, to use academic dress to monitor student activities outside college bounds, there was soon contentious debate between the institution’s founding senior academics about whether academic dress should be used at all. By sheer force of will of its leading proponent, academic dress came into use at public ceremonies. These public ceremonies became a model for public …

A Study Of The History And Use Of Lace On Academical Gowns In The United Kingdom And Ireland: Updates And Corrections, Charles Rupert Tsua

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This article is a supplement to my 2012 article in the Transactions. In the last few years research has answered some of the questions I raised in the original article, and has uncovered some ambiguities that may require further study. I shall follow a similar format to the original article, but list only the laces which need updating due to new information.

Coloured Velvet Is Too Gaudy: The 1861 Reforms To The Academical Costume Of The University Of London, Bruce Christianson

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The University of London’s original system of academic dress was adopted by the Senate in 1844, and made extensive use of velvet on both gowns and hoods. In 1861 London adopted a radically new system, which eliminated the use of velvet and which has (with various amendments and additions) remained recognizably in use to this day. This article tells the story of how the revision came about, by tracing its progress through the Minute Book of Convocation.

Bristol Blue: A Search For The Origins Of Academic Dress At The University Of Bristol, Paul Hayward

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This article gives the results of research into the origins of academic dress at the University of Bristol, and is principally concerned with the regulations surrounding that subject. As such, it does not look into the actual use of academic dress. For example, undergraduate gowns still form part of the official regulations, but they are not to be seen in the University today. This falls outside the scope of this research.

Erratum: The Lack Of A Theology Hood At The University Of The West Indies, Mitchell A. Nicholls

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In the printed edition of Volume 20, p. 162, Mitchell A. Nicholls’ article ‘The Lack of a Theology Hood at the University of the West Indies’ erred in spelling out the degree BCL. It is a Bachelor of Civil Law, not Canon Law. The error was corrected before the digital edition of Volume 20 was uploaded.

The Curious Case Of A Women’S Academic Collar, Valentina S. Grub

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In mid-nineteenth century America, women’s seminaries were established as a counterpoint to men’s colleges. However, while their male counterparts immediately adopted various iterations of academic gowns, these seminaries struggled to formalize their own academic attire. One element of it was a ‘collar’ made of fine mesh and, most unusually, sectioned into panels by lengths of boning. The ends would have been drawn around the back of the neck and fastened by a row of tiny, cumbersome hooks and eyes. As an academic accessory, such a collar has hitherto been unknown to the academic dress academe. Moreover, it offers a scholarly …

Front Matter, Editorial Board

Transactions of the Burgon Society

No abstract provided.

Fossils In Silk: Historical Hoods Of Trinity College, Toronto, Colin Fleming

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The hoods used by Trinity College at the University of Toronto bear out to some extent what Groves and Christianson suggested, namely that ‘colonial universities initially borrowed their [academical dress] from the mother country, and particularly, in the case of British colonies, from the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge.’ The hoods we saw at the conference provide evidence that Trinity College may represent an archaeological record of Canadian interpretations (or adaptations) of historical UK usage. The robes of the College have been described in various catalogues and other publications from 1875 to the present, and these sources provided valuable clues …

The Invention Of Tradition: The Cambridge Benefactors’ Gowns, Simon Morris

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This article examines the emergence of a new phenomenon in academic dress that has developed over the past twenty years—the awarding of special gowns by some colleges of the University of Cambridge to recognize individual donors and reward their munificence. This appears to be predominantly—albeit not exclusively—a Cambridge phenomenon, and for reasons advanced below not replicated at Oxford University. This article considers in turn whether benefactors’ gowns qualify as academic dress, the reasons for their institution and the criteria for their design. It then looks at the two types of design that have been used, paying particular attention to the …