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Articles 31 - 60 of 114
Full-Text Articles in Art and Design
Alternative Futures: The Creative Reconsideration Of Fashion Objects, Kathryn Roberts
Alternative Futures: The Creative Reconsideration Of Fashion Objects, Kathryn Roberts
Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects
This project is the beginning of what I intend to be a larger, evolving work that seeks to marry the theoretical with the practical when considering fashion objects that have “served their purpose”. The object at the project’s focal point: a worn out pair of blue jeans. My particular focus on jeans is based on the fact that they, alongside the t-shirt, are one of the most ubiquitous and commonly owned pieces of clothing for people all over the world. This wardrobe staple transcends age, race, and class, as it occupies an iconic status that has made them invulnerable to …
Venus In Knitwear
SIGNED: The Magazine of The Hong Kong Design Institute
In September, Keith Kwok Kin Ming -- 2017 HKDI Higher Diploma in Fashion Design graduate from the Department of Fashion and Image Design -- was named overall champion at the 7th Hong Kong Young Knitwear Designer's Contest. His collection Transition of Venus takes its name from the extremely rare phenomenon...
In Praise Of Silk
SIGNED: The Magazine of The Hong Kong Design Institute
Silk, a natural material that was first used in China around 6000 years ago, still outperforms even the most high-tech artificial fibres and continues to be considered the epitome of style and luxury. A recent exhibition at HKDI's d-mart explored this wonder material
Chilean Arpilleras: Writing A Visual Culture, R. Darden Bradshaw
Chilean Arpilleras: Writing A Visual Culture, R. Darden Bradshaw
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
This paper highlights a recent inquiry into the contemporary visual culture of the Chilean arpillera from a cross-global perspective. This art form derived from political, social, and economic conditions of the times yet contemporary manifestations do not address these origins. Arpilleras, historically created in the home and sewn by hand, are constructions in which bits of discarded cloth and burlap were used to compose pictorial narratives. The art form arose in Chile during a period of intense political oppression. This manifestation of women’s fiber art has and continues to serve as both seditious and reconstructive forms of visual culture. While …
The Future Of Textiles: Disruption And Collaboration, Susan Brown, Matilda Mcquaid, David Breslauer, Suzanne Lee, Anais Missakian, Abby-George Erikson, Salem Van Der Swaagh
The Future Of Textiles: Disruption And Collaboration, Susan Brown, Matilda Mcquaid, David Breslauer, Suzanne Lee, Anais Missakian, Abby-George Erikson, Salem Van Der Swaagh
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The textile field, while not “local” in the geographic sense, is a community: a group of people with a shared language, history, and practices that date back thousands of years. As deeply-rooted as those materials and practices are, textiles is also an area that has historically experienced enormous disruptions due to changing technology and globalization. In the 21st century, we are undergoing something like a second Industrial Revolution. Advances in digital and robotic technologies and shifting labor markets are driving a revolution in where and how things are made. Global climate change, lack of food security for much of …
Whitework: The Cloth And Call To Action, Sonja Dahl
Whitework: The Cloth And Call To Action, Sonja Dahl
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
In the newly independent colonies of the American Northeast, styles of white-on-white quilting and embroidery became popular among women coming of age. Considered the epitome of their needleworking skills, whitework required patience, time, focus, precision, and a steady hand. Such detailed stitchwork on pure white cotton-then a booming industry in the American South-prepared these young women to make homes that were meaningful, full of symbolism and care. Drawing analogy between these historic textiles and current movements for decolonization and anti-racism, this talk expands the term Whitework to function as a call to action, for both myself and other white-identified scholars …
Shipibo-Conibo Textiles 2010-2018: Artists Of The Amazon Culturally Engaged, Nancy Gardner Feldman
Shipibo-Conibo Textiles 2010-2018: Artists Of The Amazon Culturally Engaged, Nancy Gardner Feldman
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
This paper considers the intersection of processes of making and cultural memory as contemporary Shipibo artists design, produce, and exchange of their contemporary textiles and art. One sees a continuation of traditional collaborative social networks both in Peru’s deep Amazon region and in new Shipibo communities of Pucallpa and Lima. In cities, they create new artistic networks and expressions of art in ceremony. In these artworks, one sees how Shipibo relationship to the natural world, the forest, plants, animals, and waters reflects deep spiritual beliefs, wisdom, and community knowledge. Shipibo communities in 2017 face ever-expanding challenges from intrusions into their …
A Virgin Martyr In Indigenous Garb? A Curious Case Of Andean Ancestry And Memorial Rites Recalled On A Christian Body, Gaby Greenlee
A Virgin Martyr In Indigenous Garb? A Curious Case Of Andean Ancestry And Memorial Rites Recalled On A Christian Body, Gaby Greenlee
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
The notion of “social fabric” has deep resonance in the Andes, where woven textiles have long been entwined with gestures of political alliance, marriage, or rituals marking key transitions in the life cycle. Within the life cycle pre-Conquest, what is more, textiles were heavily implicated in that most poignant of transitions-from life to death. Yet in the Andes, death did not remove one from the life cycle. The deceased remained present and active participants in communal life, seen as potent advocates for the next generation, consulted as oracles, and regularly re-dressed in traditional woven textiles. After the Spanish-Catholic conquest, however, …
Threads, Twist And Fibre: Looking At Coast Salish Textiles, Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa
Threads, Twist And Fibre: Looking At Coast Salish Textiles, Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Coast Salish textiles are: remarkable for their quality; unusual in the fibres used; notable in their designs; singular in the innovative processes used to manufacture them. Salish textiles were determined by geography, shaped by trade, and influenced by colonization. That the textile tradition has survived is a reflection of the prestige they hold and the importance of the textiles in the Coast Salish culture. Relatively unknown and underappreciated, the older textiles deserve to be looked at with fresh eyes and modern methods that bring to light the outstanding abilities of the Coast Salish women in the creation of these important …
Shepherds And Shawls: Making Place In The Western Himalayas, Jennifer Hoover
Shepherds And Shawls: Making Place In The Western Himalayas, Jennifer Hoover
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Cars weave through the flocks of the Gaddi shepherds as they travel from the plains to high altitude deserts, winding along roads lined with shops selling Kullu shawls. In these ways and more, textiles are the face of the northern Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. Yet dominant discourses position both the shepherds and weavers of the region as the last hold-outs of endangered traditions. These discourses continue colonial-era assumptions of rural artisans as “primitives” in need of either protection from encroaching industrialization or motivation to modernize. Academic writings, popular visual representations, and government policies also reinforce monolithic identities of herders …
Kasb-E-Hunar (Skilled Enclave), Adil Iqbal
Kasb-E-Hunar (Skilled Enclave), Adil Iqbal
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Kasb-e-Hunar (Skilled Enclave) is a sensory film showing a visual documentation of Shu (woolen cloth) making a short interviews with an elderly artisan community for the village of Madaklasht. It invites the audience to engage with the past and present and seeks to provoke conversations about the future and the responsibilities we have, given past mistakes. The film was made over three weeks of anthropological fieldwork in Shishi Koh Valley, Chitral, Northern Pakistan. The film investigates the cultural significance of woolen craft skills, exploring memories relating to handiwork, and the challenges of globalization. It shows the value of traditional skills …
Weaving Authenticity: Artesanías Or The Art Of The Textile In Chiapas Mexico, Addison Nace
Weaving Authenticity: Artesanías Or The Art Of The Textile In Chiapas Mexico, Addison Nace
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
During my six months in Chiapas, I worked for the weaving cooperative Mujeres Sembrando la Vida (MSV), a partner organization to Natik. Natik works with grassroots organizations in Mexico and Guatemala with a focus on economic development and education. MSV is a cooperative of sixty women weaving from the municipality of Zinacantán1 founded by Doña Magdalena and currently run by her two daughters Yoli and Xunka. Zinacantán is a Tzotzil Mayan village in the highlands of Chiapas, Mexico. Chiapas has the highest population of indigenous people and is also the poorest state in Mexico with a poverty rate of 75.7 …
Ties That Bind: Finding Meaning In The Making Of Sacred Textiles, Janet Pollock
Ties That Bind: Finding Meaning In The Making Of Sacred Textiles, Janet Pollock
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
I was a novice weaver when I began constructing a Rakusua-Buddhist ceremonial garment-as an initiation into a spiritual community in my hometown. Years later, in the Jewish Museum in Amsterdam, I was drawn to an early 19th century Tallit Katan, a ritual silk undergarment that had been made for a Jewish poet who later converted to Christianity. I had just inherited my father-in-law’s prized collection of silk neckties. He was a troubled man who had embraced his faith late in life. Those ties became the weft for three works-a handwoven tallit, a woven timeline, and a small keepsake for …
Other People’S Clothes: The Second-Hand Clothes Dealer And The Western Art Collector In Early Twentieth-Century China, Rachel Silberstein
Other People’S Clothes: The Second-Hand Clothes Dealer And The Western Art Collector In Early Twentieth-Century China, Rachel Silberstein
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
In Chinese culture, as in many other cultures, new clothes were a powerful symbol of prosperity and beginnings. Yet, with the development of the Qing economy, the second-hand clothes seller (guyi) thrived alongside the pawnshop business to occupy a vital role in the wider system of clothing provisioning: enabling the poor a means of covering their bodies, the privileged an opportunity to liquidate value in clothing possessions, and pretenders a chance to dress their way into different social roles. At the end of the nineteenth century, this established clothing system encountered seismic change, as Western dress systems were introduced, imperial …
Nd’Awakananawal Babijigwezijik Wd’Elasawawôganôl: “We Wear The Clothing Of Our Ancestors”, Vera Longtoe Sheehan
Nd’Awakananawal Babijigwezijik Wd’Elasawawôganôl: “We Wear The Clothing Of Our Ancestors”, Vera Longtoe Sheehan
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
When thinking of Native American people, a typical image is of tanned people with long dark hair wearing leather and furs in the distant past, but that is not an accurate depiction of the Abenaki people or their textiles. As an Abenaki scholar, artist, and educator, my research into the textile traditions of the Abenaki people includes archaeological evidence, primary resources, and oral history interviews. Abenakis themselves have different ideas of what it traditional because textile and fiber arts evolved over many millennia throughout N’dakinna, the Abenaki homeland which once encompassed Vermont, New Hampshire, northern Massachusetts, and parts of New …
The Global Influence Of China And Europe On Local Japanese Tapestries Mainly From The 19th Through Early 20th Centuries, Masako Yoshida
The Global Influence Of China And Europe On Local Japanese Tapestries Mainly From The 19th Through Early 20th Centuries, Masako Yoshida
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
In general, Japanese culture has developed under the influence of foreign cultures, and textiles are no exception. In this presentation, I will focus on tapestries from the 19th century (the late Edo period) to the early 20th century (the Showa period), and discuss how Japanese tapestries achieved their original expression under the influence of Chinese and European tapestries. The Japanese began to seriously produce tapestry weaving around the end of the Edo period, but in the beginning, they just copied Chinese and European tapestries. Regarding these early productions, little research has been accomplished yet. In this presentation, I …
Mind’S Eye And Embodied Weaving: Simultaneous Contrasts Of Hue In Isluga Textiles, Northern Chile, Penelope Dransart
Mind’S Eye And Embodied Weaving: Simultaneous Contrasts Of Hue In Isluga Textiles, Northern Chile, Penelope Dransart
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
This article examines the use of hue in textiles woven during the twentieth century in Isluga, a bilingual Aymara/Spanish-speaking community of herders of llamas, alpacas and sheep in the highlands of northern Chile. It pays tribute to the weaving skills of Natividad Castro Challapa and other weavers of her generation, born early in the twentieth century. Aniline dyes were already known to them but, in the course of their lives, they witnessed increasing amounts of industrially manufactured, pre-dyed acrylic yarns arriving in the community. The article explores how weavers incorporated these brightly hued yarns in their textiles to form accents …
Ethical Fashion In The Age Of Fast Fashion, Sophie Xue
Ethical Fashion In The Age Of Fast Fashion, Sophie Xue
Art Honors Papers
No abstract provided.
Bodylore And Dress, Amy K. Milligan
Bodylore And Dress, Amy K. Milligan
Women's & Gender Studies Faculty Publications
Bodylore includes the ways in which the body is used as a canvas for inherited and chosen identity. Bodylore considers the symbolic inventory of dress and hair, addressing a range of identities from conservative religious groups like the Amish and the Hasidim to edgy goth and punk devotees. The body is scripted in portrayals of race, ethnicity, gender, age, religion, and politics, including such topics as tattoos, piercing, scarification, hair covering and styling, traditional and folk dress, fashion, and body modification. The central bodylore questions are whether individuals choose consciously or subconsciously to engage with their performative body, as well …
Spring 2019: The Women Of The Baby Boomer Generation, Elsah Aubuchon
Spring 2019: The Women Of The Baby Boomer Generation, Elsah Aubuchon
Apparel Production and Evaluation [FAS 205]
No abstract provided.
Spring 2019: Men Over 40, John Hadley
Spring 2019: Men Over 40, John Hadley
Apparel Production and Evaluation [FAS 205]
No abstract provided.
Spring 2019: Junior Boys, Emma Seiz
Spring 2019: Junior Boys, Emma Seiz
Apparel Production and Evaluation [FAS 205]
No abstract provided.
Of The Crickets, Kathryn Lien
Of The Crickets, Kathryn Lien
Theses and Dissertations
Of the Crickets imagines the overlapping worlds of ethical ecological solutions to climate changed sustenance and the potential for collective excellence in female exclusive environments. Using garments, furniture, site-specific installation and directed performance, the project harnesses social and material sensitivity to mine solutions for idealized living.
Gender Beyond Binary, Sidra Zubairi
Gender Beyond Binary, Sidra Zubairi
Theses and Dissertations
Transgender individuals challenge the binary definition of gender accepted in Pakistani society and as a result, Pakistan’s transgender community is highly marginalized. Pakistani society regards transgender individuals as “abnormal,” because their physical appearance and behavior fail to conform with conventional expectations. Based on contextual research and interviews conducted with transgender individuals in Pakistan, my thesis explores the obstacles transgender individuals face in the course of everyday survival. My research responds to the physical realities of being transgender in Pakistani society and analyzes cultural norms associated with gender, which trigger harassment. By designing transformable apparel for these individuals, informed by primary …
A Review Of The Determinants Of Textile And Clothing Bilateral Trade Flow, W. C. A. Chu, M. H. E. Chan, J. Cheung
A Review Of The Determinants Of Textile And Clothing Bilateral Trade Flow, W. C. A. Chu, M. H. E. Chan, J. Cheung
Faculty of Design & Environment (THEi)
Past studies have investigated the trade relationship between countries by analysing economic and political related factors using gravity models. Numerous factors have been empirically tested in the literature which are proposed to be important contributors in determining trade flow. This study addresses the research questions, what are the key factors and dimensions that influence bilateral trade. It focuses on identifying the key factors and dimensions for the expansion of Textile and Clothing (T&C) manufacturing by Chinese manufacturers to other countries, in light of China’s recent One Belt One Road (OBOR) initiative. This paper will critically review bilateral trade and international …
What Opportunities From The “One Belt, One Road” Initiative For Manufacturing? The Case Of Hong Kong's Textiles And Clothing Sectors, M. H. E. Chan, W. C. A. Chu, Y. Y. Lau, C. K. D. Ho, H. O. Nguyen
What Opportunities From The “One Belt, One Road” Initiative For Manufacturing? The Case Of Hong Kong's Textiles And Clothing Sectors, M. H. E. Chan, W. C. A. Chu, Y. Y. Lau, C. K. D. Ho, H. O. Nguyen
Faculty of Design & Environment (THEi)
Past studies have investigated the trade relationship between countries by analysing economic and political related factors using gravity models. Numerous factors have been empirically tested in the literature which are proposed to be important contributors in determining trade flow. This study addresses the research questions, what are the key factors and dimensions that influence bilateral trade. It focuses on identifying the key factors and dimensions for the expansion of Textile and Clothing (T&C) manufacturing by Chinese manufacturers to other countries, in light of China’s recent One Belt One Road (OBOR) initiative. This paper will critically review bilateral trade and international …
She Has Good Jeans: A History Of Denim As Womenswear, Marisa S. Bach
She Has Good Jeans: A History Of Denim As Womenswear, Marisa S. Bach
Senior Projects Spring 2018
Senior Project submitted to The Division of Arts of Bard College.
Italian Bedfellows: Tristan, Solomon & “Bestes”, Kathryn Berenson
Italian Bedfellows: Tristan, Solomon & “Bestes”, Kathryn Berenson
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Two surviving late fourteenth-century quilted furnishings, the Coperta Guicciardini in the Museo Nazinale del Bargello, Florence, and the Tristan Quilt in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, depict scenes from the legend of Tristan, one of King Arthur’s knights. Both museums attribute the furnishings to a southern Italian atelier. Research to-date essentially treats these works as if, like Athena from the head of Zeus, they burst complete. Yet by the twelfth century Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Norman occupation and active trade with the Levant, all had contributed to the culture of southern Italy. Prime evidence is the mosaic floor, dated …
Schoolgirl Embroideries: Integrating Indigenous Motifs, Materials, And Text, Lynne Anderson
Schoolgirl Embroideries: Integrating Indigenous Motifs, Materials, And Text, Lynne Anderson
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
Hand embroidery was an integral part of female education in Europe, America, and their colonized territories until the late 19th century. All girls embroidered at least one sampler and many stitched more than one. Because needlework was part of the school’s curriculum; a sampler’s composition, technique, and text communicate a great deal about the teacher’s goals, as well as community and family expectations, including those of indigenous students. This presentation explores ways in which indigenous motifs, materials, and text were integrated into schoolgirl samplers and other girlhood embroideries, leaving visible evidence of cross-cultural accommodations. Motifs are recurring patterns or …
Eliza Calvert Hall, A Book Of Hand-Woven Coverlets, And Collecting Coverlet Patterns In Early Twentieth Century Appalachia, Philis Alvic
Eliza Calvert Hall, A Book Of Hand-Woven Coverlets, And Collecting Coverlet Patterns In Early Twentieth Century Appalachia, Philis Alvic
Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
In her 1912 book, Eliza Calvert Hall describes looking out of her window and seeing coverlets thrown over tobacco wagons on way to market. She would run out and try to bargain with the owner for the coverlet. She collected coverlets, their design names, and their patterns. Since Hall supported herself with her writing, she counted on her coverlet book appealing to the wide audience of people interested in the Colonial Revival in home decoration. Although hall published the book, she was just the more visible of those interested in coverlets during the early twentieth century. Throughout Appalachia, there were …