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Articles 451 - 480 of 583
Full-Text Articles in Museum Studies
The Textile Artist’S Archive: Approaches To Creating, Collecting And Preserving Artistic Legacy, Jessica Shaykett, Kathleen Mangan, Lia Cook, Stephanie Zollinger Dr., Fannie Ouyang
The Textile Artist’S Archive: Approaches To Creating, Collecting And Preserving Artistic Legacy, Jessica Shaykett, Kathleen Mangan, Lia Cook, Stephanie Zollinger Dr., Fannie Ouyang
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
The catalyst for the following discussion of the artist’s archive in the context of fiber and textile art grew out of several in-depth consultations I have had in my time as librarian and archivist at the American Craft Council, two examples of which I’d like to briefly highlight in this introduction. First, a series of phone calls from Jenelle Porter and Sarah Parrish, senior curator and research fellow respectively, at the Institute of Contemporary Art in Boston. Porter and Parrish were researching artists for “Fiber: Sculpture 1960-Present”, the first exhibition in over forty years to examine abstraction in fiber art …
Engineered Ikat Textile Of Gujarat - A Design Intervention, Shohrat S. Saiyed, Reena Bhatia Ph.D.
Engineered Ikat Textile Of Gujarat - A Design Intervention, Shohrat S. Saiyed, Reena Bhatia Ph.D.
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
India – the country of rich heritage and culture is pictured through its traditional textiles which are kept alive through generations by the craftsman and his workmanship. Patola of Patan known as a double ikat silk textile, manifests the richness of heritage craft in dazzling colours and admirable motifs, but is a time consuming yarn resist textile. It cannot be duplicated anymore, since the GI recognition is served for its products under the name Patan Patola. The low cost variants of the celebrated Patan Patola have emerged in the Saurashtra region of Gujarat since last four decades as a single …
Sadu Weaving: The Pace Of A Camel In A Fast-Moving Culture, Lesli Robertson
Sadu Weaving: The Pace Of A Camel In A Fast-Moving Culture, Lesli Robertson
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
As a Fulbright Specialist in Kuwait in 2015, I was introduced to a textile known as sadu, which loosely translated means “moving at the pace of a camel.“ This rich textile has been a part of the traditionally nomadic Bedouin culture of the Middle East, and is front and center in fast moving Kuwait. Hugging the shores of the Arabian Gulf, Kuwait is at the intersection of desert and gulf, a nation full of progress, forward thinking, and contemporary approaches to practically everything. On Gulf Road, right in the heart of Kuwait City sits the center of sadu weaving, Beit …
Some Of The Weavings Used In Turkish Bath In The Context Of Intangible Cultural Heritage, Ayşem Yanar, Feryal Söylemezoğlu, Zeynep Erdoğan, Özlen Özgen
Some Of The Weavings Used In Turkish Bath In The Context Of Intangible Cultural Heritage, Ayşem Yanar, Feryal Söylemezoğlu, Zeynep Erdoğan, Özlen Özgen
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
Hand weaving has a very old history in Anatolia. In addition to carpet and rugs, almost in every region it could be possible to see local weavings. Some of the weavings perished and others still continue to exist. These weavings which have to be evaluated as intangible cultural heritage have been protected by the geographical indication suspended license in order to protect them from losing their unique properties. Changes in the dynamics of tourism with the improvements in technology and the emergence of alternative forms of tourism, have increased the importance of local and touristic products. Turkish Bath has always …
Kashmir Shawls: The Perfect Exemplar Of A Textile Shaping And Being Shaped, Joan Hart
Kashmir Shawls: The Perfect Exemplar Of A Textile Shaping And Being Shaped, Joan Hart
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
The history of the Kashmir shawl and its stylistic progress and appropriation by other cultures reveals that an art form can be viewed as is (sui generis), and also in a context of social life that is not always what we would like to celebrate. And because the shawls have been made over centuries, this context has changed frequently.1 The Kashmir shawl is very special because it combines: a material that is extremely rare and luxurious which we now call cashmere or pashmina, a weave structure that is unique in its region and very complex, a symbolism of design motifs …
Revitalization Of The Handloom Heritage Of Chhota Udepur, Gujarat, Bhatia Reena Phd., Pawar Pooja M.Sc.
Revitalization Of The Handloom Heritage Of Chhota Udepur, Gujarat, Bhatia Reena Phd., Pawar Pooja M.Sc.
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
The rich and beautiful products of the weavers of India have been rightly called “Exquisite poetry in colourful fabrics.” These beautiful traditional textiles were woven on the simple loom and the technique has been passed on through generations. However, many traditional weavers have either lost or are fast-loosing the essence and aesthetics of their indigenous crafts and craftsmanship. The researcher’s concern is for the preservation and revitalization of one such handloom heritage, the tribal cloth of Chotta Udepur, Gujarat, before it vanishes from our sight was high. Snow ball technique was used to draw a convenience sample. The data was …
The Changing Role Of Chaguar Textiles In The Lives Of The Wichí, An Indigenous People Of Argentina, Rachel Green
The Changing Role Of Chaguar Textiles In The Lives Of The Wichí, An Indigenous People Of Argentina, Rachel Green
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
Beating, spinning, and sewing fiber, a woman works to perpetuate her culture a thread and stitch at a time. While her hands work expertly and she talks casually, Carolina is crocheting a hat from a fiber called chaguar to be worn under a motorcycle helmet. She learned to crochet five years ago from a nonindigenous woman whose house she was paid to clean. Because crocheting is not a traditional technique, she only does it to sell to the local townspeople, preferring the techniques from her Wichí heritage. “Wichí” means simply “the people” in her original language. Their culture is centered …
Title: Ajrakh- A Textile Tradition In Transition, Sharmila J. Dua Prof. Dr.
Title: Ajrakh- A Textile Tradition In Transition, Sharmila J. Dua Prof. Dr.
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
The region of Gujarat in the west has been an important textile export zone of India and remains an important source of printed cloth, in terms of both volume and quality. Early evidence of Gujarat’s involvement in international trade of colourful block printed textiles comes from the fragments found at the Fostat excavations in Egypt. These have been dated back to the fifteenth century and have been printed by the resist printing technique. The designs, motifs and colours are typical of the hand block printed textiles characteristic of the region today. Khavda and Dhamadka villages in Kutch were known for …
Dyeing With Morinda Citrifolia: In Pursuit Of Sustainable Future, Sudha Dhingra
Dyeing With Morinda Citrifolia: In Pursuit Of Sustainable Future, Sudha Dhingra
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
Green and sustainable practices are the future of fashion. It aims to nurture the environment through effective use of resources in order to minimize the cruel impact for both producer and customer. It employs techniques of environmental friendly ways of growing, extracting, producing and processing fabrics. Fashion industry as such involves highly unsustainable practices as there is always an urgent need to get faster and uniform results. It has a high carbon footprint as each stage of clothing lifecycle generates environmental and occupational hazards. Socially committed fashion takes into account the place of production, producers well-being and conditions under which …
“Meshed With A Million Veins”: Seafaring Networks & The Norfolk Sampler, Joanne Martin Lukacher
“Meshed With A Million Veins”: Seafaring Networks & The Norfolk Sampler, Joanne Martin Lukacher
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
The title of this article is taken from a line of a poem by the 19th-century Georgia poet Sidney Lanier and is presented as an homage to the location of the 2016 TSA conference. “And the marsh is meshed with a million veins” is Lanier’s description of “The Marshes of Glynn” in his poem of the same name, Glynn being one of the Atlantic coastal counties south of Savannah. I have taken this alliterative evocation of the sinuous verge of land and sea as a metaphorical point of embarkation for a discussion of the distinctive needlework of another, more distant, …
The Power Of Color: Anatolian Kilims, Sumru Belger Krody
The Power Of Color: Anatolian Kilims, Sumru Belger Krody
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
The kilims of Anatolia are great contemplative and minimalist works of art as stated by a kilim enthusiast.1 Created by women who had a magnificent eye for design and an awesome sense of color, these textiles are prized for the purity and harmony of their color, the integrity of their powerful overall design, their masterfully controlled weave structure, and their fine texture. The kilims are large tapestry-woven textiles. The visually stunning and colorful Anatolian kilims communicate the aesthetic choices of the village and nomadic women who created them. Yet, while invested with such artistry, Anatolian kilims first and foremost were …
For What It’S Worth: The French Knot As A Basic Trade Commodity, Jeana Eve Klein
For What It’S Worth: The French Knot As A Basic Trade Commodity, Jeana Eve Klein
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
For nearly twenty years, my primary studio production has been in the form of mixed media quilts. These quilts draw—both visually and conceptually—on the abandoned houses that color the landscape of my North Carolina mountain home. They are constructed using traditional quilting techniques married with digital processes and acrylic paint—a hybrid product that lands at the intersection of fibers, photography, painting and digital media. Although their conceptual purpose is to investigate the narrative past, present and future of these homes and their values, the questions with which I am most often quizzed at exhibitions focus purely on time and technique: …
Here And There, Now, Sandra Heffernan
Here And There, Now, Sandra Heffernan
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
A textile installation shaped by traditional embroidery, geographical differences, technology and novel natural dye is the focus of this paper. ‘Through the globe’ [Através do globo] is the result of a six week artist in residency at Contextile 2016 in Guimarães, Portugal.1 It builds upon environmental pest invasive weed dye research, interprets ‘traditional’ embroidery illustrating the poetics of place.2 The essence of Guimarães embroidery provides the narrative along the fourteen metre length and is the physical embodiment of the antipodal link between and Wellington, New Zealand. The challenge offered by Contextile 2016 was to collaborate with Oficina embroiderers to learn, …
Some National Goods In 1871: The Rebozo, Marta Turok
Some National Goods In 1871: The Rebozo, Marta Turok
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
The history of rebozos and jaspe (ikat) in Mexico still presents many enigmas and fertile field for research. Public and private collections in Mexican and foreign museums preserve a variety of rebozos from the mid-18th through the 20th centuries. However, it has been complicated to correlate these extant pieces with exact places of production and dates. Other sources such as written accounts and images focus mostly on their social uses, sometimes places of production or sale are merely mentioned yet techniques and designs are the information least dealt with. Virginia Davis mentions this problem while analyzing the Frederick Church collection …
The Merchants And The Dyers: The Rise Of A Dyeing Service Industry In Massachusetts And New York 1800-1850, Linda Jean Thorsen
The Merchants And The Dyers: The Rise Of A Dyeing Service Industry In Massachusetts And New York 1800-1850, Linda Jean Thorsen
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
Histories of dyeing in the United States have tended to emphasize home craft processes, early textile manufacturing, or the growth of synthetic dyes. But in the first decades of the nineteenth century, a vibrant independent dyeing service industry emerged in U.S. port cities. Using natural dyes, working with a variety of fibers, colors, and finishing processes, and developing sophisticated skills and equipment, these dyers served import merchants, retailers, elite households, and businesses such as hotels. They received cloth, garments, or home furnishings, cleaned, bleached, and/or dyed them, and then returned them “like new.” To satisfy customers, these businesses had to …
Artist At Sea: Codes And Cargo, Kelly Thompson
Artist At Sea: Codes And Cargo, Kelly Thompson
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
The themes of land, labor and the port resonate for me and particularly in recent voyage experiences and digital weaving research, which I will attempt to bring together in this talk. These activities converge in new and evolving artwork, generating more questions than answers on the relationships between digital and analog materiality. Trades routes, and the movement of people and goods through ports, notions of networks, flow, circulation, has parallels and resonance with our contemporary digital systems and also, correlations with political issues, namely power and control. The Container Shipping world is fascinating to drop in on, a world so …
A Morenada Dance Costume: An Example Of The Interconnection Of The Americas, Spain And Africa, Nancy B. Rosoff
A Morenada Dance Costume: An Example Of The Interconnection Of The Americas, Spain And Africa, Nancy B. Rosoff
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
This paper will explore the interconnection of the Americas, Spain and Africa as exemplified by a 19th century festival costume in the collection of the Brooklyn Museum, worn for the Moreno or Morenada, a dance developed after Spain’s conquest and colonization of the Inca Empire in the 16th century. Two other costumes were also examined, one in the collection of the American Museum of Natural History in New York City, and the other in the collection of the Museo Nacional de Etnografía y Folklore in La Paz, Bolivia. Today, the Moreno or Morenada is one of the most popular dances …
Velvet And Patronage: The Origin And Historical Background Of Ottoman And Italian Velvets, Sumiyo Okumura Dr.
Velvet And Patronage: The Origin And Historical Background Of Ottoman And Italian Velvets, Sumiyo Okumura Dr.
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
Velvets are one of the most luxurious textile materials and were frequently used in furnishings and costumes in the Middle East, Europe and Asia in the fifteenth to sixteenth centuries. Owing to many valuable studies on Ottoman and Italian velvets as well as Chinese and Byzantine velvets, we have learned the techniques and designs of velvet weaves, and how they were consumed. However, it is not well-known where and when velvets were started to be woven. The study will shed light on this question and focus on the origin, the historical background and development of velvet weaving, examining historical sources …
Non-Specific: Ubiquity, Invisible Labor And The Moving Blanket, Callen Zimmerman
Non-Specific: Ubiquity, Invisible Labor And The Moving Blanket, Callen Zimmerman
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
“A textile is not simply a binary system of spun, twisted or spliced fibres, but first and foremost a result of complex interactions between resources, technology and society.” Eva Anderson Strand The crash of metal on asphalt as the back of a truck lowers its lift, a grunt of exertion, a buoyant step on the platform, the shuffling of work boots in calculated motion, the crumbled sigh of fabric folding falling on itself. This observed situation is typical to the daily ins and outs of the moving blanket, a complicated dance to aid objects of importance in transit. Even if …
From Function To Fashion To A Contemporary Art Process, Journey’S Within A Fisherman’S Rib Jumper, Christine Wiltshier
From Function To Fashion To A Contemporary Art Process, Journey’S Within A Fisherman’S Rib Jumper, Christine Wiltshier
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
This paper investigates a number of journeys discovered within a fisherman’s rib jumper. The thread of each journey was unravelled whilst considering the notion, Could a process of unmaking become a form of making. This question framed a process lead studio research that centred on haptic experimentation. The vehicle chosen to investigate this question was that of the unravelling of a knitted garment. Along side a studio investigation, a number of threads were followed that connect a 1980’s fashion garment with historic coastal fishing economies in the United Kingdom. Connections were also unravelled between the machine construction of the garment …
Sumptuary Synergy: British Imperialism Through The Tartan And Slave Trades, David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders
Sumptuary Synergy: British Imperialism Through The Tartan And Slave Trades, David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
Sumptuary laws have been a useful tool for various national powers in regulating subjects and to promote class differentiation and business interests. The genesis of this study was one such law, entitled the South Carolina Negro Act of 1735, stipulating that slave garments could only be made of low-quality textiles. These fabrics were reflective of slaves living in chattel environments, thus also representing a slave’s status in society. This law forbade slaves from wearing “any sort of garment or apparel whatsoever, finer, other or of greater value than Negro cloth, duffels, coarse kerseys, osnabrigs, blue linen, check linen, or coarse …
Veiled In Ignorance And Clothed In Reason: Jimmie Durham’S 2014 Exhibition Traces And Shiny Evidence, Andrea Feeser
Veiled In Ignorance And Clothed In Reason: Jimmie Durham’S 2014 Exhibition Traces And Shiny Evidence, Andrea Feeser
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
In the 2014 London exhibition “Traces and Shiny Evidence,” Jimmie Durham showed on one floor brightly colored oil barrels, car parts, pcv pipes, and reproduction animal skeletons covered with or leaking ooze that shimmered with rainbow hues. On a floor one level up, Durham exhibited wall size drawing-prints he made by throwing stuffed animals coated with charcoal at very large pieces of paper. In the video that recorded Durham making the drawing-prints, the artist wears a workman’s vest labeled “Steiner. Maison de la Paix.” A video that is featured in the exhibition itself shows Durham in a business suit seated …
Review Of Woven Luxuries: Indian, Persian, Turkish Velvets From The Indictor Collection, Carol Bier
Review Of Woven Luxuries: Indian, Persian, Turkish Velvets From The Indictor Collection, Carol Bier
Textile Research Works
LUXURIANT AND extravagant are words that come to mind to describe the sheen of brightly coloured velvets on display in this small but stellar exhibition at San Francisco’s Asian Art Museum, on view to 1 November. The exhibition presents an exceptional private collection of exquisitely designed velvets woven in lands of the Mughal, Safavid, and Ottoman empires during the 15th through 17th centuries. Robust blossoms, sinuous vines, and stylised flowers are among the many designs that characterise Mughal, Safavid and Ottoman textiles, including sumptuous velvets with raised pile and metallic threads that shimmer in changing light. Together the products of …
Review Of Eric Broug, Islamic Geometric Design, Carol Bier
Review Of Eric Broug, Islamic Geometric Design, Carol Bier
Textile Research Works
From the eleventh century C.E., Islamic geometric patterns have continued to evolve in complexity, contributing a distinct aspect of Islamic art and architecture that covers a broad geographic range and temporal spectrum. The underlying principles of these patterns are brilliantly explained in narrative and visual formats by Eric Broug, a Dutch design professional, self-trained and with an M.A. in the history of Islamic architecture from SOAS in London. Offering both an analytical and practical understanding of the construction of Islamic geometric patterns, this book is an unusual hybrid of scholarship and art, combining the qualities of a coffeetable bibelot and …
Geometry: Drawing From The Islamic Tradition, Carol Bier
Geometry: Drawing From The Islamic Tradition, Carol Bier
Textile Research Works
Getting students involved in careful observation and analysis and encouraging their exploration of cultural forms of expression is an excellent means of introducing mathematical ideas. Geometric patterns abound in Islamic art and architecture. Exhibiting great ingenuity over the centuries, Muslim artists and craftsmen created beautiful patterns to adorn architectural monuments and exquisite objects. The Alhambra in Spain and the Taj Mahal in India offer the most famous examples of extraordinary patterns using brick and glazed tile, or carved and inlaid marble. Other examples of patterns are made using metal, wood, and fiber. Students may gain conceptual and theoretical understanding of …
The University Of Nebraska State Museum, Robert F. Diffendal Jr.
The University Of Nebraska State Museum, Robert F. Diffendal Jr.
Robert F. Diffendal, Jr., Publications
I first walked through the doors of Morrill Hall on the main or City Campus of the University of Nebraska on a day late in August of 1962 and thought that I had entered paleontology heaven. Morrill Hall then housed the University of Nebraska State Museum (UNSM). most of the Geology Department, and some other parts of university units. I was a new graduate student hoping to pursue research in invertebrate paleontology in the Department of Geology and was on my way to see the department chairman for the first time. When I entered the building I walked through a …
A Fragmented Treasure On Display: The Turfan Textile Collection And The Humboldt Forum, Mariachiara Gasparini
A Fragmented Treasure On Display: The Turfan Textile Collection And The Humboldt Forum, Mariachiara Gasparini
Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings
In the summer 2012, thanks to the Department of Central Asian Art of the museum and the International Dunhuang Project (IDP) at the British Library in London, UK, the so-called Turfan textile collection--gathered during the last century Prussian Turfan Royal Expeditions in the Tarim Basin--held in the Museum of Asian Art in Berlin, Germany, was finally microscopically analyzed and digitized. Except for a couple of pieces taken into account in previous studies as examples of comparison, the collection as a whole (ca. 350 pieces) has not enjoyed particular attention from scholars in the fields of Chinese or Central Asian art …
Inscribed Cotton Ikat From Yemen In The Tenth Century Ce, Carol Bier
Inscribed Cotton Ikat From Yemen In The Tenth Century Ce, Carol Bier
Textile Research Works
More than a thousand years ago, Baghdad was capital of the Islamic empire under the Abbasid caliphs, and Yemen was a flourishing center of agriculture and trade. Among its famous products were dyestuffs, and cotton cloth with warp stripes, patterned using techniques of compression resist. As the strength of the Abbasid caliphate declined and claims to power gained hold in the provinces, regional artistic styles began to emerge. The rulers of Yemen adopted one of the prerogatives of the Abbasid caliphs, bestowing honor by rewarding their subjects with inscribed textiles called tiraz. From burial sites in Egypt, many such textiles …
Sinan’S Screens: Networks Of Intersecting Polygons In Ottoman Architecture, Carol Bier
Sinan’S Screens: Networks Of Intersecting Polygons In Ottoman Architecture, Carol Bier
Textile Research Works
An often overlooked characteristic of Sinan’s architectural production of the 16th century is the use of low screening walls and windows carved of marble with pierced openwork or tracery to let in light and allow for air circulation. Typically these screens display polygonal networks often with intersecting polygons. This paper explores aspects of these carved patterns, which have antecedents in earlier Islamic architecture, attributing particular significance to this architectural feature in the works of Sinan and three successors whom he had trained. These slabs (and their counterparts in forged iron) may be considered études, serving as opportunities for the training …
Review Of Michel & Nosch, Eds., Textile Terminologies In The Ancient Near East And Mediterranean From The Third To The First Millennia Bc., Carol Bier
Textile Research Works
Textile production comprised the major manufacturing industry of the ancient Near East and eastern Mediterranean, yet it has received relatively little scholarly attention. As garments and furnishings, textiles may provide warmth and utility, but they are also indicators of status, objects of trade and tribute, products of technology, and economic generators. The role of textiles is both pervasive and complex, yielding rich and specific vocabularies that do not easily transcend time and space for contemporary understanding. This brilliant volume offers a compilation of twenty-two papers that result from an exciting collaboration between the Danish National Research Foundation's Centre for Textile …