Museum Studies Commons^™

Ancient Peruvian Textiles In The Vatican Museums And Their Link To The Musée Du Trocadéro Collections, Jean-François Genotte

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

The Vatican Museums keep a small collection of about sixty textile fragments mostly Lambayeque, Chimu and Chancay dating back to Late Intermediate Period. Unfortunately, the archaeological provenance of these items is not known. This paper offers a first overview of the history of the collection, describing its contents and, in more details, its most interesting fabrics. We will then suggest that some fragments of the Vatican collection might have been part of textiles once kept in the Musée du Trocadéro, and nowadays preserved in the Quai Branly Museum in Paris.

Los Museos del Vaticano conservan una pequeña colección de unos …

Documentando Y Conservando Las Colecciones Plumarias Del Museo Etnográfico Juan B. Ambrosetti; Facultad De Filosofía Y Letras, Universidad De Buenos Aires, Silvana Di Lorenzo, Silvia Manuale

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Los pueblos originarios de la región sur de América hicieron y hacen uso de las plumas de aves locales para la elaboración de indumentaria y artefactos rituales, a través de complejas manufacturas que combinan conocimiento de técnicas textil y plumaria. En este trabajo presentamos la problemática de conservación y documentación de las colecciones plumarias del Gran Chaco, actualmente conservadas en el Museo Etnográfico Juan Bautista Ambrosetti, señalando la importancia del registro gráfico y fotográfico, herramientas metodológicas fundamentales para la documentación y la conservación de colecciones etnográficas.

The indigenous peoples of the South American region made and make use of the …

Colorantes Presentes En Mochilas Ika De La Colección Etnográfica Del Världskulturmuseet (Antiguo Museo Etnografico) En Gotemburgo, Suecia, Realizada Por Gustav Bolinder, Beatriz Devia, Marianne Cardale De Schrimpff

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

El etnólogo sueco, Gustav Bolinder en los años 1914-1921 realizó una colección extensa de objetos elaborados por grupos indígenas del norte de Colombia, incluyendo a los Ika y otras etnias de la Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. La colección incluye numerosas mochilas Ika. Estas son en fique, algodón y lana, para diferentes usos. Tanto los motivos de los diseños como los colorantes y las fibras utilizadas expresan cierto grado de sincretismo. Aunque la mayoría de los diseños son tradicionales, se observa algunos animales domésticos y la cruz, al parecer resultado de la influencia de la misión de padres capuchinos establecida …

Un Fundamento De La Textualidad Textil: Los Colores Tarabuco, Ricardo Cavalcanti-Schiel

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

El presente artículo tiene por objetivo presentar la lógica de funcionamiento de una gramática del color en los textiles tarabuco de los Andes Meridionales (centro-sur de Bolivia). Poniendo foco en el sistema de k’uychi, un dispositivo prescriptivo de gradación cromática (degradé), se pretende demostrar como él funciona como mecanismo de construcción de un lenguaje expresivo, coherente con los fundamentos cosmológicos andinos.

The purpose of this article is to present the logic of operation of a color grammar in Tarabuco textiles of the Southern Andes (south-central Bolivia). Focusing on the system of k’uychi, a prescriptive device of chromatic gradation (dégradé), it …

Representaciones Textiles En Los Iconos De La Litoescultura Tiwanaku: Distribución Y Significado / Textile Representations In The Iconography Of The Tiwanaku Lithic Sculpture: Distribution And Meaning, Carolina Aguero, Arturo Martínez

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Se presenta la síntesis de una investigación destinada a identificar representaciones textiles en los iconos de la litoescultura Tiwanaku. Previamente ya habíamos usado un análisis componencial para segregar motivos y elementos en sus tres principales figuras: Personaje Frontal, Personajes de Perfil y Banda Faja. Luego se ubicaron sus referentes textiles en colecciones arqueológicas de Chile, Perú y Bolivia para precisar patrones de distribución espacial de las prendas y su iconografía en las distintas zonas que estuvieron en la órbita de Tiwanaku. Además, este estudio ha sido complementado con una exploración de los saberes ancestrales acerca de los iconos que están …

Recontextualizando El Patrimonio Arqueológico: Los Textiles Paracas Descubiertos Por Engel En Cabezas Largas, Jessica Lévy Contreras

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Resumen El archivo de Frédéric Engel, arqueólogo suizo quien trabajó en la costa sur del Perú entre los años 1950 y 1960, representa un patrimonio documental importante conservado en el Museo Nacional de Antropología, Biodiversidad, Agricultura y Alimentación (MUNABA) de la Universidad Nacional Agraria La Molina en Lima. Gracias a la revisión de los registros gráficos y fotográficos de las excavaciones realizadas en Cabezas Largas, sitio ubicado en la Península de Paracas, y particularmente de los materiales hallados en la tumba T.27, este artículo presenta los principales textiles asociados a la parafernalia ritual de siete fardos funerarios para tratar de …

El Tapiz Colonial Con Tocapus Del Museo Nacional De Arqueología, Antropología E Historia Del Perú, Mónica Solórzano Gonzales

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Se estudia en este texto un extraordinario tapiz que resalta por una decoración que combina símbolos incaicos, con aspecto de tocapus, con una cruz cristiana. Forma parte de una investigación mayor dedicada al tapiz andino colonial próxima a divulgarse. Actualmente, no se conoce otro ejemplar semejante en el Perú ni en el extranjero y probablemente se trata de uno de los tapices coloniales más antiguos. Tuvimos la fortuna de darlo a conocer en los seminarios del Doctorado del Programa de Estudios Andinos de la Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú y en otros eventos desde el año 2014. Se halla en …

Una Prenda Triangular Con Plumas En La Colección Del Museo De Sitio De Pachacámac, Lourdes Chocano Mena

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Las formas habituales de los tejidos son la cuadrangular o la rectangular. Sin embargo, existen casos de tejidos como los paños trapezoidales de algodón usados como prendas de vestir (taparrabos, turbantes, pañuelos). Aquí presentamos un estudio de una prenda de forma triangular hallada en Pachacámac. Su hallazgo no recibió mayor atención, pese a su gran dimensión y la manera de cómo ha sido confeccionada, es muy particular: sus bordes están recamados de plumas anaranjadas y moradas en hileras. Explicaremos la confección de cada una de sus partes, haremos comparaciones con otras vestimentas de forma similar, y propondremos las posibles funciones …

Hidden In Plain Sight. How ‘Disturbing’ Features Found Within Two Peruvian Textile Fragments Have Turned Into A ‘Significant Guide’ For Conservation, Griet Kockelkoren, Emma Damen

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Préserver non seulement ‘l’objet matériel’, mais préserver également les valeurs intrinsèques d’un objet n’est pas un nouveau concept dans la pratique de la conservation-restauration actuelle. Le défi de cette approche consiste à regarder au-delà de ce qui est visible à l’oeil nu et à déterminer les traces de signification qui sont présentes dans l’objet. Au début d’une recherche ou une conservation, les aspects sont inconnues et parfois bien déguisés. Les traces essentielles peuvent être très difficiles à évaluer et à valoriser, en particulier avec des objets textiles ayant servi à une ou plusieurs fins pratiques au cours de leur vie …

The Pre-Columbian Textile Collection Of The German Textile Museum Krefeld, Katalin Nagy

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

The German Textile Museum in Krefeld houses a considerable collection of pre-Columbian textiles. Most originate from graves in the narrow arid area of the Peruvian coast. The original aim was to build an assemblage with the pedagogical and methodological intention of presenting a broad range of very different textile techniques in the education for the future textile workers of the industry in said region. With this intention in mind samples were gathered, and soon a few samples turned into an impressive collection in which almost all established pre-Columbian cultures and periods of the area of the Central Andes are represented. …

Life Of A Peruvian Art Collector: Guillermo Schmidt Pizarro And The Fostering Of Public Collections Of Pre-Hispanic Art In The First Half Of The 20th Century, Carolina Orsini, Anna Antonini

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Guillermo Schmidt Pizarro was a famous collector of Peruvian origins, active in Europe and the United States beginning in the early twentieth century. He traded numerous pre-Hispanic and colonial artifacts to the most important museums of the time. The focus of this preliminary work is to trace his biography and the sales he dealt with over thirty years of activity. Thanks to provenance information, the authors have been able to sometimes “virtually build up” fragments of textiles that he scattered among diverse public and private institutions. The importance of this research is consistent with the efforts of museums to trace …

Los “Diseños Verdaderos” En Los Tejidos De Las Mujeres Cashinahuá Del Alto Purús, María Elena Del Solar

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

El presente trabajo constituye una aproximación a la cultura textil del grupo étnico cashinahuá con la finalidad de documentar las características particulares de los tejidos elaborados en las comunidades nativas ubicadas en los territorios de reserva del Parque nacional Purús. El arte del kené –que refiere a los diseños geométricos representados en tejidos, cestería y pintura corporal de ciertos grupos pertenecientes a la familia lingüística pano- es desarrollado específicamente en la textilería cashinahuá por mujeres especialistas, responsables de todos los niveles de decisión involucrados en la actividad y dueñas de los jardines de algodón, de donde obtienen la materia prima. …

Colecciones Textiles Etnográficas Del Gran Chaco Sudamericano Del Museo Etnográfico “J. B. Ambrosetti” Y El Estudio De Su Materialidad: Un Desafío A La Mirada Occidental Sobre Los Otros No-Occidentales, Mariana Alfonsina Elías

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

El Museo Etnográfico “J. B. Ambrosetti” (Facultad de Filosofía y Letras, Universidad de Buenos Aires) guarda en su acervo un conjunto amplio, diverso y poco conocido de producciones textiles de distintos pueblos originarios del Gran Chaco Sudamericano. Las mismas han ingresado a la institución entre fines del siglo XIX y las primeras cuatro décadas del siglo XX. El estudio que vengo desarrollando de varios aspectos de la materialidad de los objetos textiles que conforman dichas colecciones- materia prima, técnicas/ estructuras textiles, diseños, colores, evidencias de uso, etc.- ha implicado la necesaria problematización de nuestra mirada occidental y de nuestras representaciones …

Middle Horizon Textiles From Chimu Capac, Supe Valley, Peru, Amy Oakland

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

This article presents an overview of the textiles Max Uhle collected between November 4 and December 3, 1904 in the Middle Horizon cemetery at Chimu Capac in the Supe Valley, Peru. The total collection of objects numbers over 830 with 278 textiles including woven fragments, complete garments, woven and painted pouches, and over 155 painted textiles. The article discusses a sample of Chimu Capac textiles included in Uhle’s Supe field Notebook 67, in his hand-written Supe report, and textiles listed in the Supe Berkeley catalog. The Chimu Capac textiles compare with collections of Middle Horizon funerary objects made in coastal …

La Cestería De Los Cazadores-Recolectores, Procedente De La Cueva De La Candelaria, Torreón, Coahuila, México, Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela, Alejandra Quintanar Isaías, Ana Jaramillo Pérez

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

En 1953 se realiza la primera exploración arqueológica al Norte de la República Mexicana por parte del Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH), que conformó un grupo interdisciplinario para explorar la Cueva de la Candelaria, ubicada en el Valle de las Delicias en el estado de Coahuila. Esta cueva es una de las más importantes de México, dónde se logró recuperar -gracias a su característica de cueva seca- un vasto patrimonio arqueológico de origen orgánico que nos permite conocer mejor a los grupos de cazadores-recolectores que habitaron la región. Dentro de la gran diversidad de objetos se encontraron un …

Precolumbian Textile Conference Viii / Jornadas De Textiles Precolombinos Viii, Lena Bjerregaard, Ann H. Peters

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Contents: Preface — Lena Bjerregaard & Ann Hudson Peters

Archaeological textiles – Textiles arqueológicos – Textiles archéologiques: • 1, Recontextualizando el patrimonio arqueológico: los textiles paracas descubiertos por Engel en Cabezas Largas — Jessica Lévy Contreras • 2, Two-headed serpents and rayed heads: Precedents and reinterpretations in Paracas Necropolis imagery — Ann H. Peters • 3, Representaciones textiles en los iconos de la litoescultura Tiwanaku: significado y distribución — Carolina Agüero & Arturo Martínez • 4, Middle Horizon textiles from Chimu Capac, Supe Valley, Peru — Amy Oakland • 5, Una prenda triangular con plumas en la colección del …

Textil Y Territorio: Sobre Los Tejidos Intrincados De Poroma, Norte De Chuquisaca, Bolivia, Verónica Auza Aramayo

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

La presente propuesta pretende comprender cómo el sistema territorial andino está manifiesto en el lenguaje visual de los tejidos; específicamente en el estudio de los tejidos de Poroma, Norte de Chuquisaca, Bolivia. Cultura andina caracterizada por una larga historia que evoca diversos movimientos y procesos multiétnicos, que estableció, en un valle de características tórridas, una auto denominación cultural que la designa como «llameros», vale decir, gente que desde las altas punas antiguamente y hasta la década de 1980 se desplazaba con sus caravanas de llamas, marcando un mercado de bienes a lo largo de la cordillera. Esta forma de nombrarse …

Signos Comunes En Los Textiles Andinos Y Los Mesoamericanos, Victòria Solanilla

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Entre los recientes estudios sobre textiles Andinos, comienza a ser frecuente encontrar quienes se dedican a describir además de las técnicas, sus iconografías. Como eran sociedades ágrafas, nos hace pensar que con aquellas imágenes nos quisieron dejar su historia y pensamiento. En el caso de Mesoamérica, se podría decir lo mismo de las técnicas e imágenes, pero en este caso, las sociedades que los tejieron sí tenían manera de comunicarse a través de sus lenguajes escritos. No se han conservado tantos tejidos a causa del clima por las condiciones no favorables para la conservación de materiales orgánicos, pero tenemos muchos …

A Highland Textile Tradition From The Far South Of Peru During The Period Of Inka Domination, Penelope Dransart

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

A group of garments and textile fragments is identified in this article as belonging to a particular textile tradition, with characteristics indicating an affiliation to communities in the highlands of the South-Central Andes. Different categories of gender-specific garments are presented. The characteristics include an all-camelid construction, warp-patterned stripes in blocks of alternating colours, the use of a discontinuous warp and transposed-warp weave. Pattern motifs include eight-pointed stars, double-headed serpents and figures based on rhombuses. Distinctive geometric designs are analysed, including ‘butterfly’ motifs and narrow stripes, consisting of paired light- and dark-coloured right-angled triangles joined to make stacks of larger isosceles …

Gendering Art History In The Victorian Age: Anna Jameson, Elizabeth Eastlake, And George Eliot In Florence, Antje Anderson

School of Art, Art History, and Design: Theses and Student Creative Work

This thesis investigates how three professional Victorian women writers, Anna Jameson, Elizabeth Eastlake, and George Eliot, wrote about Renaissance art in Florence. As nineteenth-century women, they were excluded from certain realms of knowledge, agency, and influence. This exclusion (complicated by their privilege in terms of class, nationality, and education) influenced the way they experienced and wrote about art. The introduction addresses how changing modes of travel, broader access to publication, and art history’s gradual emergence as an academic discipline helped shape their careers as women art writers—the well-known “Mrs. Jameson” as a popularizer of art history for a broad readership; …

The Precolumbian Textiles In The Roemer- And Pelizaeus-Museum Hildesheim, Germany, Lena Bjerregaard

Zea E-Books Collection

Along the coast of Peru is one of the driest deserts in the world. Here, under the sand, the ancient Peruvians buried their dead wrapped in gorgeous textiles. As organic material keeps almost forever when stored without humidity, light and oxygen, many of the mummies excavated in the last hundred years are in excellent conditions. And so are the textiles wrapped around them. Their clear colors are still dazzling and the textile fibers in good condition. Textiles were highly valued objects in ancient Peru – used for expressing status and diverse messages in these non-literate but highly organized and very …

Digital Libraries, Intelligent Data Analytics, And Augmented Description: A Demonstration Project, Elizabeth Lorang, Leen-Kiat Soh, Yi Liu, Chulwoo Pack

University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries: Faculty Publications

From July 16-to November 8, 2019, the Aida digital libraries research team at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln collaborated with the Library of Congress on “Digital Libraries, Intelligent Data Analytics, and Augmented Description: A Demonstration Project.“ This demonstration project sought to (1) develop and investigate the viability and feasibility of textual and image-based data analytics approaches to support and facilitate discovery; (2) understand technical tools and requirements for the Library of Congress to improve access and discovery of its digital collections; and (3) enable the Library of Congress to plan for future possibilities. In pursuit of these goals, we focused our …

By Land And By Sea: Displaced Samplers Reveal Women On The Move, Lynne Anderson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Until the middle of the nineteenth century most American girls embroidered as least one needlework sampler as part of their education. A first sampler demonstrated the girl had learned to sew a few different stitches, copy the alphabet, and “write” her own name in thread. If instruction continued past these basics, subsequent embroideries might reveal more advanced needlework techniques and the girl’s expanding literacy. Each sampler was considered a significant accomplishment—by the girl herself, her teacher, her family, and even potential suitors. Embroidered samplers were treasured objects, framed and displayed in the home or tucked away safely for posterity. When …

Artistic Philanthropy And Women’S Emancipation In Early Twentieth-Century Italy, In The Life And The Work Of Romeyne Robert And Carolina Amari, Maria Luciana Buseghin

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Romeyne Robert, married as Ranieri di Sorbello, started an embroidery school in 1904 in Umbria, at the family’s country estate of Pischiello. Her goal was to teach young peasant women to emancipate themselves by learning the craft of embroidery. She was inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement in America and by contemporary programs developed in settlement houses along the East Coast. Their aim was to help the emancipation of immigrant women from Italy by fostering the recovery of artisan skills. At the Sorbello Embroidery School, Romeyne rediscovered the Renaissance technique originally called the punto Umbro, later renamed punto Sorbello. …

Many Makers: Collaborative Renewal Of Chahta Nan Tvnna (Choctaw Textiles), Jennifer Byram

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Using an Indigenous research model of relationality to community and to land, this paper presents the production of a 1700’s style skirt in bison and dogbane fiber by a group of Choctaw textiles artisans. By translating existing archaeological and textual resources into newly produced garments, these practices communicate the research to the Choctaw community in an accessible and inspiring format. Textiles discussed in this paper are made with twining and oblique interlacing techniques using dogbane, bison, and nettle yarns decorated with natural dyes, pigments, or shells. Members of the Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma revitalized a traditional art that had been …

Camelid Fleece And The Hidden Histories Of Colors In The Andes, Penelope Dransart

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This article explores the significance of natural fleece colors that are often hidden by dyeing processes. The earliest domesticated alpacas and llamas probably resembled vicuñas and guanacos, their wild counterparts. By 3000 years ago, differences were beginning to emerge in the coats of alpacas and llamas. Dyers, spinners, and weavers learned to exploit these variations to complement and extend the range of possibilities offered through the use of dyed yarns. The evidence from the Siguas and Nasca cultural traditions considered here is both direct and indirect, taking into account textile remains and the depiction of camelids on ceramics. It indicates …

Aso Òkè Weaving Techniques And Perception In Iseyin, Oyo State, Nigeria, Idowu Jamiu Diyaolu, Halima Ronke Omotosho

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

There is need for more women to be involved in weaving activities in southwestern Nigeria. The study examined the techniques employed in local weaving in Iseyin and associated factors, as well as the perceptions of consumers on the woven fabrics. The study was carried out in Iseyin, a city in Oyo State, Nigeria, reputed for weaving aso-oke. Cluster sampling was used to select twenty weavers while simple random sampling was used to select eighty consumers. Interviews and questionnaires were used to collect data then analyzed and interpreted using descriptive statistics and correlation. The result showed that most of the weavers …

Making Siapo In Leone Today, Regina A. Meredith Fitiao Mfa

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Siapo is the Samoan word for painted bark cloth. It’s an art form that has been a part of many Pacific island nations for centuries. At one time it flourished in American Samoa, namely the village of Leone, where a group of women worked consistently with it. One of those women is my great aunt, the late Mary J. Pritchard, who taught me the rudiments of making siapo back in the early 1970s, while later it was her daughters who inspired me to become the siapo maker I am today.

“Making Siapo in Leone Today” is an elucidation of my …

Behind The Scenes: Hidden Stories Of Craftswomen Of Punjab, India, Anu H. Gupta

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Creating phulkari, an embroidered craft of Punjab, for the market involves a value-chain of people for converting a solid fabric to an ornamented piece with embroidery. A pillar of this value-chain is domestic craftswomen. Being part of an informal sector, these women are susceptible to being exploited at home as well as by designers, vendors, and several others involved in the value-chain of production and marketing of craft. Many of them are pushed to the background not only by their family members but also by the people or vendors who give them work. Their individual contribution is acknowledged only when …

Ethnoarchaeology Of The Textile Chaîne Operatoire. Searching For Evidence Of Prehispanic Textile Production In Domestic Sites, Bárbara Cases

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

It is proposed that detailed knowledge of the textile production sequence currently carried out by Aymara weavers of the Altiplano of Tarapac  (northern Chile) constitutes an important reference to link material and immaterial aspects and generate indicators with which to address pre-Hispanic textile production in domestic sites, the locations where fabrics would have been produced and used. This research is conceptually framed by the anthropology of technology, which considers material production as a social act. The recording of textile production processes (cha ne op ratoire) was carried out using an ethno-archaeological approach to build a bridge between the present—with known …