History of Art, Architecture, and Archaeology Commons^™

Ancient Peruvian Textiles In The Vatican Museums And Their Link To The Musée Du Trocadéro Collections, Jean-François Genotte

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

The Vatican Museums keep a small collection of about sixty textile fragments mostly Lambayeque, Chimu and Chancay dating back to Late Intermediate Period. Unfortunately, the archaeological provenance of these items is not known. This paper offers a first overview of the history of the collection, describing its contents and, in more details, its most interesting fabrics. We will then suggest that some fragments of the Vatican collection might have been part of textiles once kept in the Musée du Trocadéro, and nowadays preserved in the Quai Branly Museum in Paris.

Los Museos del Vaticano conservan una pequeña colección de unos …

Documentando Y Conservando Las Colecciones Plumarias Del Museo Etnográfico Juan B. Ambrosetti; Facultad De Filosofía Y Letras, Universidad De Buenos Aires, Silvana Di Lorenzo, Silvia Manuale

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Los pueblos originarios de la región sur de América hicieron y hacen uso de las plumas de aves locales para la elaboración de indumentaria y artefactos rituales, a través de complejas manufacturas que combinan conocimiento de técnicas textil y plumaria. En este trabajo presentamos la problemática de conservación y documentación de las colecciones plumarias del Gran Chaco, actualmente conservadas en el Museo Etnográfico Juan Bautista Ambrosetti, señalando la importancia del registro gráfico y fotográfico, herramientas metodológicas fundamentales para la documentación y la conservación de colecciones etnográficas.

The indigenous peoples of the South American region made and make use of the …

Colorantes Presentes En Mochilas Ika De La Colección Etnográfica Del Världskulturmuseet (Antiguo Museo Etnografico) En Gotemburgo, Suecia, Realizada Por Gustav Bolinder, Beatriz Devia, Marianne Cardale De Schrimpff

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

El etnólogo sueco, Gustav Bolinder en los años 1914-1921 realizó una colección extensa de objetos elaborados por grupos indígenas del norte de Colombia, incluyendo a los Ika y otras etnias de la Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. La colección incluye numerosas mochilas Ika. Estas son en fique, algodón y lana, para diferentes usos. Tanto los motivos de los diseños como los colorantes y las fibras utilizadas expresan cierto grado de sincretismo. Aunque la mayoría de los diseños son tradicionales, se observa algunos animales domésticos y la cruz, al parecer resultado de la influencia de la misión de padres capuchinos establecida …

Un Fundamento De La Textualidad Textil: Los Colores Tarabuco, Ricardo Cavalcanti-Schiel

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

El presente artículo tiene por objetivo presentar la lógica de funcionamiento de una gramática del color en los textiles tarabuco de los Andes Meridionales (centro-sur de Bolivia). Poniendo foco en el sistema de k’uychi, un dispositivo prescriptivo de gradación cromática (degradé), se pretende demostrar como él funciona como mecanismo de construcción de un lenguaje expresivo, coherente con los fundamentos cosmológicos andinos.

The purpose of this article is to present the logic of operation of a color grammar in Tarabuco textiles of the Southern Andes (south-central Bolivia). Focusing on the system of k’uychi, a prescriptive device of chromatic gradation (dégradé), it …

Representaciones Textiles En Los Iconos De La Litoescultura Tiwanaku: Distribución Y Significado / Textile Representations In The Iconography Of The Tiwanaku Lithic Sculpture: Distribution And Meaning, Carolina Aguero, Arturo Martínez

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Se presenta la síntesis de una investigación destinada a identificar representaciones textiles en los iconos de la litoescultura Tiwanaku. Previamente ya habíamos usado un análisis componencial para segregar motivos y elementos en sus tres principales figuras: Personaje Frontal, Personajes de Perfil y Banda Faja. Luego se ubicaron sus referentes textiles en colecciones arqueológicas de Chile, Perú y Bolivia para precisar patrones de distribución espacial de las prendas y su iconografía en las distintas zonas que estuvieron en la órbita de Tiwanaku. Además, este estudio ha sido complementado con una exploración de los saberes ancestrales acerca de los iconos que están …

Recontextualizando El Patrimonio Arqueológico: Los Textiles Paracas Descubiertos Por Engel En Cabezas Largas, Jessica Lévy Contreras

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Resumen El archivo de Frédéric Engel, arqueólogo suizo quien trabajó en la costa sur del Perú entre los años 1950 y 1960, representa un patrimonio documental importante conservado en el Museo Nacional de Antropología, Biodiversidad, Agricultura y Alimentación (MUNABA) de la Universidad Nacional Agraria La Molina en Lima. Gracias a la revisión de los registros gráficos y fotográficos de las excavaciones realizadas en Cabezas Largas, sitio ubicado en la Península de Paracas, y particularmente de los materiales hallados en la tumba T.27, este artículo presenta los principales textiles asociados a la parafernalia ritual de siete fardos funerarios para tratar de …

El Tapiz Colonial Con Tocapus Del Museo Nacional De Arqueología, Antropología E Historia Del Perú, Mónica Solórzano Gonzales

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Se estudia en este texto un extraordinario tapiz que resalta por una decoración que combina símbolos incaicos, con aspecto de tocapus, con una cruz cristiana. Forma parte de una investigación mayor dedicada al tapiz andino colonial próxima a divulgarse. Actualmente, no se conoce otro ejemplar semejante en el Perú ni en el extranjero y probablemente se trata de uno de los tapices coloniales más antiguos. Tuvimos la fortuna de darlo a conocer en los seminarios del Doctorado del Programa de Estudios Andinos de la Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú y en otros eventos desde el año 2014. Se halla en …

Una Prenda Triangular Con Plumas En La Colección Del Museo De Sitio De Pachacámac, Lourdes Chocano Mena

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Las formas habituales de los tejidos son la cuadrangular o la rectangular. Sin embargo, existen casos de tejidos como los paños trapezoidales de algodón usados como prendas de vestir (taparrabos, turbantes, pañuelos). Aquí presentamos un estudio de una prenda de forma triangular hallada en Pachacámac. Su hallazgo no recibió mayor atención, pese a su gran dimensión y la manera de cómo ha sido confeccionada, es muy particular: sus bordes están recamados de plumas anaranjadas y moradas en hileras. Explicaremos la confección de cada una de sus partes, haremos comparaciones con otras vestimentas de forma similar, y propondremos las posibles funciones …

Hidden In Plain Sight. How ‘Disturbing’ Features Found Within Two Peruvian Textile Fragments Have Turned Into A ‘Significant Guide’ For Conservation, Griet Kockelkoren, Emma Damen

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Préserver non seulement ‘l’objet matériel’, mais préserver également les valeurs intrinsèques d’un objet n’est pas un nouveau concept dans la pratique de la conservation-restauration actuelle. Le défi de cette approche consiste à regarder au-delà de ce qui est visible à l’oeil nu et à déterminer les traces de signification qui sont présentes dans l’objet. Au début d’une recherche ou une conservation, les aspects sont inconnues et parfois bien déguisés. Les traces essentielles peuvent être très difficiles à évaluer et à valoriser, en particulier avec des objets textiles ayant servi à une ou plusieurs fins pratiques au cours de leur vie …

The Pre-Columbian Textile Collection Of The German Textile Museum Krefeld, Katalin Nagy

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

The German Textile Museum in Krefeld houses a considerable collection of pre-Columbian textiles. Most originate from graves in the narrow arid area of the Peruvian coast. The original aim was to build an assemblage with the pedagogical and methodological intention of presenting a broad range of very different textile techniques in the education for the future textile workers of the industry in said region. With this intention in mind samples were gathered, and soon a few samples turned into an impressive collection in which almost all established pre-Columbian cultures and periods of the area of the Central Andes are represented. …

Life Of A Peruvian Art Collector: Guillermo Schmidt Pizarro And The Fostering Of Public Collections Of Pre-Hispanic Art In The First Half Of The 20th Century, Carolina Orsini, Anna Antonini

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Guillermo Schmidt Pizarro was a famous collector of Peruvian origins, active in Europe and the United States beginning in the early twentieth century. He traded numerous pre-Hispanic and colonial artifacts to the most important museums of the time. The focus of this preliminary work is to trace his biography and the sales he dealt with over thirty years of activity. Thanks to provenance information, the authors have been able to sometimes “virtually build up” fragments of textiles that he scattered among diverse public and private institutions. The importance of this research is consistent with the efforts of museums to trace …

Los “Diseños Verdaderos” En Los Tejidos De Las Mujeres Cashinahuá Del Alto Purús, María Elena Del Solar

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

El presente trabajo constituye una aproximación a la cultura textil del grupo étnico cashinahuá con la finalidad de documentar las características particulares de los tejidos elaborados en las comunidades nativas ubicadas en los territorios de reserva del Parque nacional Purús. El arte del kené –que refiere a los diseños geométricos representados en tejidos, cestería y pintura corporal de ciertos grupos pertenecientes a la familia lingüística pano- es desarrollado específicamente en la textilería cashinahuá por mujeres especialistas, responsables de todos los niveles de decisión involucrados en la actividad y dueñas de los jardines de algodón, de donde obtienen la materia prima. …

Colecciones Textiles Etnográficas Del Gran Chaco Sudamericano Del Museo Etnográfico “J. B. Ambrosetti” Y El Estudio De Su Materialidad: Un Desafío A La Mirada Occidental Sobre Los Otros No-Occidentales, Mariana Alfonsina Elías

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

El Museo Etnográfico “J. B. Ambrosetti” (Facultad de Filosofía y Letras, Universidad de Buenos Aires) guarda en su acervo un conjunto amplio, diverso y poco conocido de producciones textiles de distintos pueblos originarios del Gran Chaco Sudamericano. Las mismas han ingresado a la institución entre fines del siglo XIX y las primeras cuatro décadas del siglo XX. El estudio que vengo desarrollando de varios aspectos de la materialidad de los objetos textiles que conforman dichas colecciones- materia prima, técnicas/ estructuras textiles, diseños, colores, evidencias de uso, etc.- ha implicado la necesaria problematización de nuestra mirada occidental y de nuestras representaciones …

Middle Horizon Textiles From Chimu Capac, Supe Valley, Peru, Amy Oakland

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

This article presents an overview of the textiles Max Uhle collected between November 4 and December 3, 1904 in the Middle Horizon cemetery at Chimu Capac in the Supe Valley, Peru. The total collection of objects numbers over 830 with 278 textiles including woven fragments, complete garments, woven and painted pouches, and over 155 painted textiles. The article discusses a sample of Chimu Capac textiles included in Uhle’s Supe field Notebook 67, in his hand-written Supe report, and textiles listed in the Supe Berkeley catalog. The Chimu Capac textiles compare with collections of Middle Horizon funerary objects made in coastal …

La Cestería De Los Cazadores-Recolectores, Procedente De La Cueva De La Candelaria, Torreón, Coahuila, México, Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela, Alejandra Quintanar Isaías, Ana Jaramillo Pérez

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

En 1953 se realiza la primera exploración arqueológica al Norte de la República Mexicana por parte del Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH), que conformó un grupo interdisciplinario para explorar la Cueva de la Candelaria, ubicada en el Valle de las Delicias en el estado de Coahuila. Esta cueva es una de las más importantes de México, dónde se logró recuperar -gracias a su característica de cueva seca- un vasto patrimonio arqueológico de origen orgánico que nos permite conocer mejor a los grupos de cazadores-recolectores que habitaron la región. Dentro de la gran diversidad de objetos se encontraron un …

Precolumbian Textile Conference Viii / Jornadas De Textiles Precolombinos Viii, Lena Bjerregaard, Ann H. Peters

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Contents: Preface — Lena Bjerregaard & Ann Hudson Peters

Archaeological textiles – Textiles arqueológicos – Textiles archéologiques: • 1, Recontextualizando el patrimonio arqueológico: los textiles paracas descubiertos por Engel en Cabezas Largas — Jessica Lévy Contreras • 2, Two-headed serpents and rayed heads: Precedents and reinterpretations in Paracas Necropolis imagery — Ann H. Peters • 3, Representaciones textiles en los iconos de la litoescultura Tiwanaku: significado y distribución — Carolina Agüero & Arturo Martínez • 4, Middle Horizon textiles from Chimu Capac, Supe Valley, Peru — Amy Oakland • 5, Una prenda triangular con plumas en la colección del …

Textil Y Territorio: Sobre Los Tejidos Intrincados De Poroma, Norte De Chuquisaca, Bolivia, Verónica Auza Aramayo

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

La presente propuesta pretende comprender cómo el sistema territorial andino está manifiesto en el lenguaje visual de los tejidos; específicamente en el estudio de los tejidos de Poroma, Norte de Chuquisaca, Bolivia. Cultura andina caracterizada por una larga historia que evoca diversos movimientos y procesos multiétnicos, que estableció, en un valle de características tórridas, una auto denominación cultural que la designa como «llameros», vale decir, gente que desde las altas punas antiguamente y hasta la década de 1980 se desplazaba con sus caravanas de llamas, marcando un mercado de bienes a lo largo de la cordillera. Esta forma de nombrarse …

Signos Comunes En Los Textiles Andinos Y Los Mesoamericanos, Victòria Solanilla

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Entre los recientes estudios sobre textiles Andinos, comienza a ser frecuente encontrar quienes se dedican a describir además de las técnicas, sus iconografías. Como eran sociedades ágrafas, nos hace pensar que con aquellas imágenes nos quisieron dejar su historia y pensamiento. En el caso de Mesoamérica, se podría decir lo mismo de las técnicas e imágenes, pero en este caso, las sociedades que los tejieron sí tenían manera de comunicarse a través de sus lenguajes escritos. No se han conservado tantos tejidos a causa del clima por las condiciones no favorables para la conservación de materiales orgánicos, pero tenemos muchos …

A Highland Textile Tradition From The Far South Of Peru During The Period Of Inka Domination, Penelope Dransart

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

A group of garments and textile fragments is identified in this article as belonging to a particular textile tradition, with characteristics indicating an affiliation to communities in the highlands of the South-Central Andes. Different categories of gender-specific garments are presented. The characteristics include an all-camelid construction, warp-patterned stripes in blocks of alternating colours, the use of a discontinuous warp and transposed-warp weave. Pattern motifs include eight-pointed stars, double-headed serpents and figures based on rhombuses. Distinctive geometric designs are analysed, including ‘butterfly’ motifs and narrow stripes, consisting of paired light- and dark-coloured right-angled triangles joined to make stacks of larger isosceles …

Gendering Art History In The Victorian Age: Anna Jameson, Elizabeth Eastlake, And George Eliot In Florence, Antje Anderson

School of Art, Art History, and Design: Theses and Student Creative Work

This thesis investigates how three professional Victorian women writers, Anna Jameson, Elizabeth Eastlake, and George Eliot, wrote about Renaissance art in Florence. As nineteenth-century women, they were excluded from certain realms of knowledge, agency, and influence. This exclusion (complicated by their privilege in terms of class, nationality, and education) influenced the way they experienced and wrote about art. The introduction addresses how changing modes of travel, broader access to publication, and art history’s gradual emergence as an academic discipline helped shape their careers as women art writers—the well-known “Mrs. Jameson” as a popularizer of art history for a broad readership; …

Thresholds Of Curating: Literary Space And Material Culture In The Works Of Harriet Prescott Spofford, Edith Wharton, Isabella Stewart Gardner, And Willa Cather 1870–1920, Lindsay N. Andrews

Department of English: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

This dissertation explores the polycentric intersections between material and literary culture in four case studies spanning 1870-1920. Harriet Prescott Spofford, Edith Wharton, Isabella Stewart Gardner, and Willa Cather are four women whose work reflects a capacity to defy the genre-specific boundaries for which they are canonically renown. Harriet Prescott Spofford was an important contributor to the interior design movement in the early Gilded Age following challenges to finding publication resources for her fiction within a male-dominated publishing community. Edith Wharton’s ties to material culture are well known, but less attention is granted to the ways in which her own expertise …

A New Kind Of Loom In Early Roman Egypt? How Iconography Could Explain (Or Not) Papyrological Evidence, Maria Mossakowska-Gaubert

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

The question of the different kinds of loom used in ancient Egypt is one of the most crucial issues to understanding the evolution of textile production and its technological development in the Nile Valley. However, sources concerning looms (archaeological, iconographic and written) from the Pharaonic era until the Arab medieval period are meagre, and many research questions remain open. This article is an attempt at a new interpretation of some evidence, particularly iconographic and papyrological, which could add new data to the study of weaving looms used in Egypt of the early Roman period (1st–2nd century AD).

Frontmatter For Egyptian Textiles And Their Production: ‘Word’ And ‘Object’. (Hellenistic, Roman And Byzantine Periods), Maria Mossakowska-Gaubert

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

Covers

Dedication

Contents

Introduction by Maria Mossakowska-Gaubert

Contributors

Tackling The Technical History Of The Textiles Of El-Deir, Kharga Oasis, The Western Desert Of Egypt, Fleur Letellier-Willemin

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

The site of El-Deir is situated north of Kharga in the “Great Oasis” of the Egyptian Western Desert (fig. 1). The site was occupied between the 6th century BC and the 6th century AD. A complex history emerged with the influence of many cultures: Persian, Greek, Roman and early Christian. Archaeological finds in both El-Deir and the oasis itself (the site of Dush and the temple of Darius in Hibis, a city north of Kharga) confirm that the Great Oasis was a wealthy region. This is also substantiated by texts from Ain Manawir and Dakhleh. The presence of an artesian …

What Flaws Can Tell: A Case Study On Weaving Faults In Late Roman And Early Medieval Weft-Faced Compound Fabrics From Egypt, Barbara Köstner

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

Silk samites from Late Roman and Early Medieval Egypt are well-known objects in museum collections all over the world. One group of fragments, the so-called Akhmim silks, show a mechanically repeated floral pattern. More than 100 examples with this design are known; the fragments bear striking similarities in design and technique. Were they woven in the same workshop? If all or at least a large number of pieces could be traced back to several batches of production, this would lead to further insights concerning the economics of early silk weaving. A detailed analysis of two exemplary pieces reveals features that …

Ancient Greek Dyeing: A Terminological Approach, Peder Flemestad

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

The Oxford English Dictionary defines dyeing as: “to impregnate (any tissue or the like) with a colour, to fix a colour in the substance of, or to change the hue of by a colouring matter”. In ancient Greek this operation is in general expressed by the verb βάπτειν, but the process of dyeing could be designated by a multitude of other terms. The following contribution provides an overview of the extensive ancient Greek terminology for the action of dyeing. The focus therefore lies primarily on the verbs designating the dyeing process itself, while wider dye terminology is only occasionally touched …

Dyeing In Texts And Textiles: Words Expressing Ancient Technology, Ines Bogensperger, Helgo Rösel-Mautendorfer

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

The complex chaîne opératoire of ancient textile production in various stages has been frequently discussed by textile scholars. According to documentary papyri, textile manufacturing represented the highest taxed industry after agriculture. This emphasises its importance as a significant sector in the ancient economy. A highly specialised branch within the chaîne opératoire is the dyeing industry. Ancient dyers used natural and animal dyestuffs, as well as different dyeing techniques to achieve their colourful results. They were also aware of the specific properties of the different textile fibres. In ancient times, wool and linen were the characteristic materials for manufacturing textiles, but …

How (Not) To Organise Roman Textile Production. Some Considerations On Merchant-Entrepreneurs In Roman Egypt And The Ἱστωνάρχης, Kerstin Droß-Krüpe

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

For almost the last 100 years, various ancient historians have suggested that organisations comparable to the “putting- out” system existed in the Roman Imperial period. They are most commonly believed to have occurred in textile production. As early as 1913, Theodor Reil assumed that the production of textiles in Roman Egypt was organised through the putting-out system. This idea can subsequently be traced through more than a century to recent publications. However, as this assumption is rarely based on genuine source material, it seems appropriate to get to the bottom of this hypothesis. In this context, special attention will also …

Textile Production In The Papyri: The Case Of Private Request Letters, Aikaterini Koroli

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

Throughout the “papyrological millennium”, that is from the 3rd century BC to the 8th century AD, both administrative and private life in Egypt were largely based on letters. Apart from oral communication, letter writing, mostly on papyri and ostraca, was the only available form of communication for the inhabitants of the land of Nile when they needed to get in touch and exchange information with people who did not live in their immediate surroundings. Papyrus letters, written by and sent to private, ordinary people and not to the authorities, composed in the Greek vernacular and intended to fulfill a wide …

Domestic Textile Production In Dakhleh Oasis In The Fourth Century Ad, Jennifer Cromwell

Egyptian Textiles and Their Production: ‘Word’ and ‘Object’

Ancient Kellis, modern Ismant el-Kharab is located in Dakhleh Oasis in Egypt’s Western Desert. The main occupation of the village was from the early to late Roman period (late 1st century to the beginning of the 5th century AD). Excavated as part of the Dakhleh Oasis Project, the site has revealed textual and archaeological evidence from which a detailed picture of life can be painted. To date, the main publications of the village’s finds have focussed on the textual remains, of literary and documentary texts in Coptic, Greek, and Syriac.1 A comparable publication of the archaeological evidence from the site …