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Full Instructions In Needle-Work Of All Kinds Godey's Magazine And Lady's Book

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

The material that follows appeared in Godey’s Magazine and Lady’s Book for 1858 (vol. 50, pp. 169-170) as part of a series of articles presenting “Full Instructions in Needle-Work of All Kinds.” It is reprinted here in that it offers contemporary insight into the major categories of beads used in needle work during the mid-19th century in the United States.

Mainland Chinese Export Beadwork, Valerie Hector

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

For centuries China has exported its products around the world. Chinese export porcelain, silverware, lacquerware, glassware, furnishings, textiles, and paintings have been documented in countless publications. Other categories are less well documented. Thanks to Peter Francis and other researchers, we know that China has been exporting glass beads for centuries as well. Little is known about Chinese export beadwork, a category that did not formally exist until 2007, when Hwei-Fe’n Cheah hypothesized that, in the late 19th or early 20th century, China exported beadwork to Southeast Asia’s Peranakan Chinese market. Here I expand the scope of this emerging field of …

The Art Behind The Baroque Violin, Carolyn Goldstein

Renée Crown University Honors Thesis Projects - All

Since the age of three, I have been playing the violin; however, I was uninformed about the history of the violin or how the instrument works in a mechanical sense. Inspired by my love of the music of the 1700s, I chose to study how violins were made, how their physical properties affected performance practice, and how to play Baroque violin—a project that allowed me to combine elements of my two majors, Music History and Cultures and Violin Performance. I narrowed my area of focus to the late Baroque (1700-1730) because renowned violin-maker Antonio Stradivari was considered to be in …

Frit-Core Beads In North America, Karlis Karklins

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Among the earliest European beads to reach North America is a distinctive group generally referred to in the archaeological literature as frit-core or frit-cored, so called because their interiors consist of sintered sand rather than solid glass. Likely produced in France, they are restricted to northeastern North America and have short temporal ranges, making them ideal chronological indicators for the latter part of the 16th century and the very early 17th century.

The Fichtelgebirge Bead And Button Industry Of Bavaria, Karlis Karklins, Sibylle Jargstorf, Gerhard Zeh, Laure Dussubieux

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Venice and Bohemia are generally considered to be the principal bead manufacturers of Europe. Yet Germany, especially the Fichtelgebirge region of northeastern Bavaria, produced large quantities of glass beads for the world market beginning in the 15th century, if not even earlier, and continued to do so well into the 20th century. The Fichtelgebirge industry is especially notable for two things: 1) the utilization of furnace-winding technology which, based on our current knowledge, was not employed to a significant degree elsewhere in Europe during the post-medieval period, and 2) the localized use of Proterobas, a greenish igneous rock, to produce …

Beads At The Place Of White Earth - Late Neolithic And Early Chalcolithic Aktopraklık, Northwestern Turkey, Emma L. Baysal

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

The site of Aktopraklık in northwestern Turkey was inhabited during the Late Neolithic and Early Chalcolithic periods, from the mid-7th to mid-6th millennia B.C. The site lies in a region that came to link Anatolia with Europe through the introduction of early farming practices and has already provided much information about the groups which inhabited the area along with their domesticated plants and animals. Although scientific techniques have led to recent breakthroughs in our understanding of the dynamics of change in the region, it is material culture that continues to form the foundation of archaeological research into daily life. Aktopraklık …

Reviews And End Matter

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Contact in the 16th Century, edited by Brad Loewen and Claude Chapdelaine, reviewed by Marvin T. Smith

Flower Forever: Bead Craft from France and Venice, by Ragnar Levi, reviewed by Alice Scherer

Beads from Germany: Idar-Oberstein, Lauscha, Neugablonz, by Floor Kaspers, reviewed by Valerie Hector

Table Of Contents (V. 28, 2016)

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

No abstract provided.

Front Matter

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

No abstract provided.

Imitation Amber Beads Of Phenolic Resin From The African Trade, Rosanna Falabella

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Examination of contemporary beads with African provenance reveals large quantities of imitation amber beads made of phenol-formaldehyde thermosetting resins (PFs). This article delves into the early industrial history of PFs and their use in the production of imitation amber and bead materials. Attempts to discover actual sources that manufactured imitation amber beads for export to Africa and the time frame have not been very fruitful. While evidence exists that PFs were widely used as amber substitutes within Europe, only a few post-WWII references explicitly report the export of imitation amber PF beads to Africa. However they arrived in Africa, the …

Beads: Journal Of The Society Of Bead Researchers - Volume 28 (Complete)

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

No abstract provided.

Beads And Pendants From The Tumuli Cemeteries At Wadi Qitna And Kalabsha-South, Nubia, Joanna Then-Obłuska

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

More than 500 beads and pendants were excavated by a Czechoslovakian team in the early 1960s at two sites in Lower Nubia. The beads were associated with 40 tumuli in the Wadi Qitna cemetery and two tumuli in the Kalabsha-South cemetery. These 4th-century cemeteries are related to the Blemmyes, the Eastern Desert dwellers whose pottery has been commonly recognized in the region between the Nile Valley and the Red Sea coast at a time of intensive overseas trade contacts. The bead assemblage, stored at the Naprstek Museum in Prague, was recently restudied and its materials and parallels could be more …

Bead Netting And Plaiting Techniques In The Peranakan World, Valerie Hector

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

It has long been recognized that the Peranakan Chinese peoples of Southeast Asia were expert bead embroiderers. As it happens, they were also expert bead netters and plaiters. After establishing a conceptual framework for discussing bead netting and plaiting techniques in general, this article discusses 14 pieces of Peranakan Chinese (or Minangkabau) beadwork and various techniques. The techniques likely derived not just from Europe, as early researchers tended to assume, but from island Southeast Asia and China as well. Knowledge of these and other needleworking techniques helped Peranakan beaders devise radically new permutations, some of them highly complex. Additional factors …

The Artist, The Workhorse: Labor In The Sculpture Of Anna Hyatt Huntington, Brooke Baerman

Renée Crown University Honors Thesis Projects - All

Anna Hyatt Huntington (1876-1973) was an American sculptor of animals who founded the nation’s first sculpture garden, Brookgreen Gardens, in 1932. Hyatt Huntington, whose personal papers are housed at Syracuse University, is an important yet understudied artist. Focusing on Hyatt Huntington’s sculptures in Brookgreen Gardens and on the gardens themselves, which also included a zoo, this paper will examine themes of labor in the artist’s oeuvre.

Hyatt Huntington placed an emphasis on hard work as she fought to distinguish herself as a sculptor in a male-dominated field. The products of her labor often venerate the work of animals, from bulls …

Table Of Contents (V. 27, 2015)

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

No abstract provided.

From The Past: Indians Of U.S. Spurn All Beads Except Italy’S

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Unattributed newspaper article, probably New York City (a shorter version appeared in The Review, Dayton, Ohio, Nov. 15, 1934). It presents both fact and some fiction, like the Czechs not being able to “horn in” and the Italian beads being made near Milan.

Elite Dress And Regional Identity: Chimú-Inka Perforated Ornaments From Samanco, Nepeña Valley, Coastal Peru, Benjamin Carter, Matthew Helmer

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

This article addresses two central components of the study of perforated ornaments recovered from archaeological contexts: 1) the explication and analysis of the relationship between perforated ornaments and identity production, and 2) the collection of data specific to perforated ornaments. By comparing perforated ornaments from the Chimú-Inka period (ca. 1470-1532) elite tomb at Samanco, Peru, to those from other sites, patterns in the use of perforated ornaments in identity negotiation may be identified and assessed. We demonstrate that perforated ornaments were deployed to demonstrate local, regional, and imperial identities, though in an ambiguous way that could have been mis- or …

Beads: Journal Of The Society Of Bead Researchers - Volume 27 (Complete)

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

No abstract provided.

Pipeclay Beads From Norton St Philip, England, Marek Lewcun

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

In 17th-century England, the village of Norton St Philip was well known as a center for the manufacture of clay tobacco pipes. In recent years, however, discoveries have shown that pipes were not the only things they made, as among a variety of interesting objects are some quite remarkable beads.

Front Matter

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

No abstract provided.

A 17th-Century Glass Bead Factory At Hammersmith Embankment, London, England, Karlis Karklins, Laure Dussubieux, Ron G.V. Hancock

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Excavations in 2001 and 2005 at Hammersmith Embankment in West London uncovered the remains of two glass furnaces with associated wasters relating to the manufacture of drawn glass beads during the second quarter of the 17th century. The site is significant as it represents the first archaeological evidence for the production of glass beads in post-medieval England. A preliminary study of the recovered material reveals the presence of 43 different bead varieties, many with stripes and multiple layers. While a number have not yet been observed elsewhere, a few have correlatives at a contemporary bead production site in Amsterdam, as …

Reviews And End Matter

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Photography of Personal Adornment, by Robert K. Liu, reviewed by Alice Scherer

Beads from Jablonec: A History in Beads, by Floor Kaspers, reviewed by Margret Carey

Journal: Borneo International Beads Conference 2015, edited by Heidi Munan and Anita MacGillivray, reviewed by Ann Armstrong

Ceramics And Glass Beads As Symbolic Mixed Media In Colonial Native North America, Gregory A. Waselkov, David W. Morgan, Billie Coleman

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

During the 17th and 18th centuries, Native Americans rarely adorned ceramic objects with glass beads, despite the millions of beads introduced by Europeans through trade. Bead-decorated ceramics have been reported from only nine sites in North America, perhaps due to a tendency for archaeologists to overlook or misclassify bead-inlaid pottery. The 40 artifacts represent widely divergent ethnic groups separated from each other culturally, as well as by great distances in space and time. Yet they display a remarkable consistency in the pattern of bead arrangement and use of color. Colored glass beads stand in for human eyes in effigy smoking …

Beads And Pendants From Sedeinga, Nubia, Joanna Then-Obłuska

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Excavations conducted during the 2009-2014 seasons at the burial site of Sedeinga, Nubia, produced 3,400 beads and pendants of various materials which date to the Late Napatan and Meroitic periods, ca. 400 B.C.-A.D. 300. The chronological, geographical, and political situation of the site made the bead assemblage exceptionally rich in organic and inorganic materials as well as the technologies used to make the objects. During a period dominated by faience and glass in bead production, the use of organics and stones indicates strong links with the neighboring Nubian deserts, an overland connection with the Red Sea coast, and, surprisingly, an …

A New Approach To The Restoration Of Cimabue’S Santa Croce Crucifix, Isaac Messina

Renée Crown University Honors Thesis Projects - All

On November 4, 1966 floodwaters submerged Cimabue’s late thirteenth-century Santa Croce Crucifix in Florence and stripped off nearly half of its original paint. Soon regarded as a key symbol of the flood’s catastrophic effects on the city’s rich artistic legacy, the crucifix was carefully conserved, but no attempts were made to hide the extensive scars left by the disaster. Instead, lead conservators Umberto Baldini and Ornella Casazza adopted an abstract approach to filling the work’s loss that claimed to honor the flood while providing a seamless viewing experience for the contemporary audience. This thesis shows that their theory and practice …

From The Past (1854): A Chapter On Necklaces, Old And New, Mrs. White

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Originally published in Godey's Magazine and Lady's Book in 1854 (pp. 213-216), this article presents a brief history of necklaces among the classic Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, as well as the British, from the perspective of an educated English lady. It is an instructive early study of strung adornments based on antiquarian, historical, and literary sources.

Archaeometrical Analysis Of Glass Beads: Potential, Limitations, And Results, Adelphine Bonneau, Jean-François Moreau, Ron G.V. Hancock

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Over the past few decades, several new analytical techniques have been used to determine the composition and the likely production centers of glass beads found at archaeological sites around the world. Made since antiquity, glass beads are important artifacts which can provide much more information than their small size suggests. This article reviews the most common analytical techniques used to study glass beads - optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), x-ray fluorescence (XRF), instrumental neutron activation analysis (INAA), laser ablation inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS), and Raman spectroscopy - and discusses their potential, limitations, and what results may be …

Historical Descriptions Of Malay "Beadwork", Hwei-Fe'n Cheah

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

Little has been published in English about Malay ceremonial textiles. This article relates early-20th-century beaded examples to historical descriptions and court literature to illustrate the link between beaded and bejeweled hangings.

Glass Beads From Jar Burials Of The 15th-17th Centuries In The Cardamom Mountains Of Cambodia, Alison Carter, Nancy Beavan

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

A variety of glass beads were encountered in jar burials dating to the 15th-17th centuries found on rock ledges in remote portions of the Cardamom Mountains in southern Cambodia. These burials represent a mortuary ritual in which defleshed bones, often from multiple individuals, were deposited in large ceramic jars predominantly from Thai kilns. Despite the isolated location, the jars and glass beads suggest that the people buried in the jars were active participants in exchange networks. The identification of different compositional types of glass beads can be related to possible trade networks with the lowlands and maritime Southeast Asia. Using …

Shell And Glass Beads From The Tombs Of Kindoki, Mbanza Nsundi, Lower Congo, Charlotte Verhaeghe, Bernard-Olivier Clist, Chantal Fontaine

BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Researchers

The ancient Kingdom of Kongo originated in Central Africa in the 14th century. In the 15th century, the Portuguese organized tight contacts with the Bakongo. From then on European goods gained new significance in the local culture and even found their way into funerary rites. Among the most important grave goods in the Kingdom of Kongo were shell and glass beads. They occur in many tombs and symbolize wealth, status, or femininity. At the burial site of Kindoki, linked with the former capital of Kongo's Nsundi province, a great number of shell and glass beads were found together with symbols …