Women's Studies Commons^™

Suzanne Valadon And The Active Nude, Sophia Foster

Honors Program Theses

This thesis explores how French Modernist artist and prior model Suzanne Valadon disrupted the traditional, phallocentric expectations surrounding the nude genre during the twentieth century. Theorizing on the relationship between the erotic, female nude, and the gaze, it can be concluded that the historic, repetitive visual correlation between women’s nude bodies and eroticism entangles the two concepts so tightly that women’s nude bodies became inherently erotic. The male gaze upon women’s bodies has restricted and policed their identity, since male artists inscribed their bodies as erotic symbols existing for male pleasure and conquest, particularly through the nude genre.This visual media …

Understanding Gold Textiles: Case Studies Of Gold Threads From The Bronze Age And Antiquity In Europe, Karina Grömer, Francesca Coletti, Francisco B. Gomes, Kayleigh Saunderson

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

The production of textiles, in terms of weaving techniques, has a long history in Europe, and dates back to the Stone Age, the time during which the first farming communities arrived in the Mediterranean and Central Europe, in the 7th/6th millennium BC. The first evidence of textile tools, like spindle whorls and loom weights, demonstrate that people made an important step forward in mechanizing this craft, not only twisting fibers and interlacing strands purely by hand, but also inventing tools to increase efficiency. Through the development of textile techniques, we see the unleashing of enormous creative power that stimulated even …

“What’S In A Name?” Toponyms And Loanwords In European Textile Cultures, Dimitra Andrianou, Klara Dankova, Nade Genevska Brachikj, Angela Huang, Meghan Korten, Elena Miramontes, Jasemin Nazim, Marie-Alice Rebours, Joana Sequeira

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles as man-made products have been exchanged over distances for millennia. They can and have been produced almost anywhere; they are also, as a product, highly differentiated and quickly adjustable to changing demands. This brings with it naming practices to communicate about the goods in question. Textiles are labeled so that people can form expectations about them and rely on the reputation tied to the product’s identity. The terminology of textiles and textile items arises and develops in unison with technical innovations, discoveries, fashions, and trade patterns. Although the occurrence of toponyms e.g., in preindustrial trade (10th to 18th century …

The Terminology Of Soft Furnishings In Ancient Babylonia, Greece, And Rome: A Comparative Approach, Dimitra Andrianou, Elena Miramontes, Louise Quillien

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Various kinds of textiles were used to furnish domestic spaces in Antiquity, such as curtains, covers, hangings, pillows, cushions, mattresses, rugs, tapestries, tablecloths, and towels. These objects have practical and everyday functions, they embellish and add to daily comfort in the house and speak to the owner’s prosperity. Being made of perishable materials, furnishings have, on the whole, not survived in ancient Mesopotamia, Greece, and Rome. Apart from a few excavated pieces of textiles found in tombs, our information comes primarily from written testimonia and iconography.

It is thus essential to consider soft furnishings in their own right, in order …

Textiles, Dress And Politics: A Diachronic Perspective Through The Case Studies Of Ancient Rome And Medieval Iceland, Meghan Korten, Zofia Kaczmarek

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

People dress for more than just aesthetic reasons. Over the centuries, dress became a sign of human civilization, allowing us to identify the origin, gender, and status of the wearer. Textiles and clothing influence our body, posture, movements, and the way we are perceived by society. Textiles are also a tool used by people to further their agenda, that is why they found their place in the political life of many ancient and modern societies.

According to Michel Foucault, power can be understood as a set of activities influencing the life of the other: It provokes, forbids, or permits, but …

Facilitating Factors For Female Leadership In Finance, Haleigh Woloszak

Honors Program Theses

High levels of gender inequity remain in finance leadership positions. This research is interested in the factors that facilitate female leadership in finance roles as opposed to the challenges women face in this industry. Through semi-structured interviews and thematic analysis, this paper explores the education, career development, organizational practices, professional support networks, and personal factors of successful women in finance. Commonalities among interviewee’s responses suggest that capabilities, one’s perspective on their career, personal support and domestic responsibility, and workplace relationships play a role in the success of the women in our sample. Additionally, participants discuss in depth specific organizational and …

Copyright For Imitations: Looking At The Registered Design Book Of William Stirling & Sons, Isabel Monseau

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The design and production of printed cotton in the United Kingdom underwent great changes through the nineteenth century. However as the industry grew, many manufacturers became concerned about a perceived decline in the quality of textile design. An attempt made to regulate this industry, the Copyright of Design Act of 1842, proposed to improve the quality of British production by enabling designers and proprietors to register their textile designs and thus prohibit other firms from pirating those original designs.

Yet imitations were crucial to the development and success of Britain’s cotton printing industry. By the 1870s, up to 60% of …

Translation As Consciousness-Building In The Portuguese Lesbian Press (1990–2002), Grace Holleran

Journal of Feminist Scholarship

The following article examines the political potential of the intimate, affective translation practices of Portuguese lesbian feminist activists in the publications Organa (1990–1992) and Lilás (1993–2002). Both publications, which I analyze through the rubric of the countercultural genre of “zine” or “fanzine,” arose in response to the repression and invisibilization that Portuguese lesbians faced, from criminalization and censorship at the hands of the fascist Estado Novo [New State] dictatorship (1933–1974) to exclusion from post-1974 feminist groups. Disconnected from any notion of lesbian identity and isolated from each other, the first lesbian activists turned toward experiences and connections abroad to build …

Dreams Intertwined In Strands Of Silver And Gold: Hidden Stories Of Home-Based Women Zardozi Artisans Of Bhopal, India, Meeta Siddhu, Anjali Karolia

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper examines the experiences of home-based women zardozi artisans in Bhopal, India, who use traditional embroidery skills to create fashionable products. It highlights the role of the traditional craft sector in promoting women's empowerment, enhancing economic well-being, and supporting sustainable development in the Global South. Through ethnographic research, including literature review and interviews, the study reveals the resilience of these artisans, many of whom come from low-income backgrounds with limited education. Despite modest earnings, their craft contributes to their families' status and elevates women's roles within households. The findings suggest that the handicraft sector can provide viable economic opportunities …

Threads Of Tradition: Unraveling The Shifting Semiotics Of Phulkari Embroidery From Past To Present, Gurvinder Kaur Gundev, Anjali Karolia

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This research paper examines intricate Phulkari embroidery, originating from the culturally rich region of Punjab, traces its historical roots and examines the evolving semiotics of this vibrant craft. The study commences with an exploration of the language embedded in Phulkari during its inception, analysing the symbolic meanings stitched into the intricate patterns and vibrant colours. Through a meticulous examination of archival materials, oral histories, and traditional artifacts, the research uncovers the nuanced cultural narratives expressed through Phulkari, serving as a communicative art form that transcends language barriers and articulates the wearer's identity, beliefs, and aspirations. A pivotal juncture in Phulkari's …

“What Was Before”: Lenore Tawney And Her Circle, 1950–1963, Rebecca Mcnamara

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Lenore Tawney (1907–2007) was a pioneer of 20th-century fiber arts, a position solidified by the pivotal 1963 Woven Forms exhibition at New York’s Museum of Contemporary Crafts. But her journey to this moment is less well-known. This presentation explores the preceding years, when Tawney decided, with great intention, to dedicate her life to art, relocated from Chicago to New York, and in her work, shifted (though not seamlessly nor all at once) from weaving functional objects like table mats—as shown at Chicago's first Good Design exhibition, in 1950—to colorful, figurative, dense wall tapestries to the abstract, open-weave sculptural hangings in …

Tactility And Historicity In Contemporary Textile Art: The Greek Example, Markia Liapi

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The following presentation focuses on studying contemporary textile art through two concepts, originating from contemporary theory of art, tactility and historicity. While tactility describes aesthetic, and specifically tactile qualites of textiles as pieces of art, historicity focuses on more theoretical concerns that the artistic piece proposes on the viewer. The paper analyses these two tools as a stystem of examining and, also, enjoying contemporary textile art, focusing on a concrete paradigm, the example of three contemporary Greek artists, Voula Massoura, Giwta Andriakaina and Artemis Alcalay. The artistic production of these artists is a valuable example of seeing textile art in …

The Stamina Of Things: Jean Toury's Nightshirt, Janet Pollock

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

“Stamina. from Latin stamen (Pliny), literally "foundation in weaving, thread of the warp" ......also threads spun by the Fates.”

A seasoned forager of forest and flea markets, I have tempered my eye to both the unassuming and the unexpected. I make and study textiles of every stripe. The subject of my presentation, this nightshirt, traveled 5500 miles and 80 years to reach my neck of the woods. Tailor-made and monogrammed, well-worn and deeply stained, it was suddenly dispatched into the world, to be sold "as is". I asked and was given a name, a place and a date. Jean Toury. …

The Petticoat: Details Of A Forgotten Garment In Mexico City (1900–1910), Nallely Rangel Vázquez

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During Porfirian government, Mexican society experienced a flourishing of the textile industry driven by state policies that encouraged both the rise of the national industry and foreign investment. This process was perceived from the daily life of the capital, through the windows of silk shops, shoe shops, warehouses and, above all, the imposing department store El Palacio de Hierro. One of the garments that was designed to fit at the waist and cover the legs was the petticoat, which was assumed to be a piece of female underwear. In this article, I am interested in unravelling details findings about this …

Stomach And Womb: Early Modern Recipes For The Perinatal Woman, Grace E. Beacham

English Theses - Archive

Stomach and Womb examines the recipes from early modern obstetrical treatises and midwifery manuals, revealing an ontology of parturiency that winds through the concurrent Shakespearean plays, Twelfth Night and The Winter’s Tale. Gynecological and obstetrical texts from the era detail how pregnant women were to order themselves after conception with utmost concern for their diet, governing the outputs of their bodies by managing the inputs, the foods they ingested before, during, and after pregnancy and childbirth. Further, the associated images of the stomach and the womb during this time present an essential link between foodways and a construct of …

That Girl Vs. New Girl: The Perils Of Choice Feminism, Katherine Noble

AUCTUS: The Journal of Undergraduate Research and Creative Scholarship

In recent years, Elizabeth Meriwether’s television show New Girl has begun to reach the status of a cult classic. The show’s sharp humor and quirky protagonist have captured the hearts and minds of many. But is this all for the good? New Girl features a controversial protagonist, Jessica Day, whose personality grates on some and resonates with others. Jessica represents stereotypically feminine interests and ideals yet takes on a leading role and independence not always afforded to female characters. This opens her, and the larger show, up to feminist readings and critiques. Surprisingly, little scholarly research has been conducted on …

Women Of Color Collectives In Doctoral Education: How Women Of Color Doctoral Students Thrive Together, Jenelle Nila

CGU Theses & Dissertations

Women of Color have a variety of experiences within academia, many of which are marred by the interstices of racism, classism, sexism, and the hetero patriarchy that upholds the structure of white supremacy in higher education (Gay, 2004; Peña, 2022). However, there is a legacy of Women of Color who have created and continue to create collectives to survive and, more importantly, thrive within academia. This qualitative phenomenological study uses Critical Feminist theory and Plática methodology to understand how and why Women of Color create collectives in their doctoral programs. Furthermore, this study serves as a marker on the genealogical …

Beatrice Harraden (1864-1936), Molly Mcclain

History: Faculty Scholarship

This is a brief biography of Beatrice Harraden (1864-1936), an Anglo-Indian writer who achieved fame at the start of the age of mass-market fiction. She was part of a community of women working in and around Bloomsbury.

A Tree Grows In Brooklyn: Betty Smith’S Bestselling Introduction To The Gilded Age And Progressive Era, Nancy C. Unger

History

An analysis of Betty Smith’s bestselling coming-of-age novel A Tree Grows in Brooklyn reveals how popular literature can serve as an important introduction to signature issues of the Gilded Age and Progressive Era. Industrialization, urbanization, and immigration are highlighted in the novel—as well as attendant problems including poverty, machine politics, child labor, and prejudice and discrimination. Profound ignorance about sexuality and conception abound in a religious culture that made premarital sex and birth control sinful and shameful, with unhappy marriages and unwanted children the result. As poverty and deviant sexuality abound, eugenics is touted as a sensible solution. The novel …

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, And Culture Across Millennia, Kerstin Droß-Krüpe, Louise Quillien, Kalliope Sarri

Zea E-Books Collection

Research from COST Action “CA 19131 – EuroWeb”

These essays on various aspects of textile research encompass a wide chronological perspective and vast geographical area, enriching traditional disciplines with innovative methodologies such as isotopic tracing of provenance, textile analysis, protein analysis, digital motion capture, and exploration of textile expressions in texts and folklore. All essays in this volume have been written by international teams of scholars from the participating countries. The anthology serves as a comprehensive and innovative resource, consolidating the research outcomes and insights gained from the interdisciplinary exploration of textiles in European history within the framework of EuroWeb. …

How To Wear A Queen’S Crown ; From Slavery (17th Century) To 1990s, Ka-Mya Frye

ASPIRE 2024

There are six hairstyles I chose to feature in this project that embody a story with culture to be told about the hardships African American women in the US have faced up until almost the present day. I believe it will be a fun learning experience, not only for me but other African American women, potentially looking for some cultural hairstyles and learning about their “crown’s” history. A couple of styles that stood out from the age of slavery to the 1990s were cornrows, dreads, Bantu/Zulu knots, and the afro. I will discuss the history of these styles along with …

Formed By Fire: A Global Story Of Women And Clay, Denise Tepe

MA Projects

In 1971, art historian Linda Nochlin implored the art world to be introspective of its long-held, male-centered narratives when she published the profound essay ‘Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?’ Nochlin articulated the individual and societal factors that have disadvantaged women collectively and have historically kept them from receiving the same level of recognition as male artists for the same quality of work. This essay, compounded with growing feminist sentiments of the late 20th century, insighted art world institutions to highlight and recontextualize the art of women. These institutional efforts have culminated in female artists having a renaissance …

The Spirit Of Female Modernity, Yuan Yuan

MA Projects

"The Spirit of Female Modernity" rejoices in the empowering synergy of women and art modernist aesthetics. It focuses mainly on the work of female artists, designers, musicians, and fashion brands that break several epochs and media. The goal is to motivate by illustrating how women in diverse artistic and design fields embraced and, in some cases, reinterpreted the language of modernist art to reflect their period's concept of modernity. This carefully curated exhibition highlights the new and thought-through role that women artists embarked on in helping to shape the history of art through the modernism lens of feminist practice. It …

Feminist Phenomenology And First-Person Narrative: Understanding Gender And Social Conflict In Anna Burns’ Milkman, Sushree Routray, Rashmi Gaur Professor

Comparative Woman

In her magnum opus Milkman (2018), Anna Burns employs a subversive and artfully crafted first-person narrative, deftly exposing the arduous and tumultuous struggles encountered by individuals who dare to defy the confines of traditional gender roles. Through a relentless and unflinching narrative, the novel fearlessly confronts the harrowing manifestations of psychological torment, the insidious spectre of relentless stalking, and the manipulative machinations of gaslighting, all the while fervently interrogating the notion of a fixed and immutable gender identity. In a relentless odyssey toward self-realization, the protagonist's journey unfurls against a backdrop of traumatic events and the unyielding pressures imposed by …

Women, Animals, Food: Planetary Perspectives On The Non-(Hu)Man, Samu/Elle Striewski

Comparative Woman

The paper comparatively reads Mahasweta Devi’s Pterodactyl, Pirtha, and Puran Sahay (1995) and Margaret Atwood’s The Year of the Flood (2009) to trace the ways in which both novels show the complex intertwinement of the climate crisis with gender, class, race, subalternity, anthropocentrism, and veganism. Bringing together Gayatri C. Spivak’s notion of “planetarity” with ecofeminist philosophy and literary criticism, the article proposes a planetary ecogender reading of the two texts and their representation of the non-man, non-human, and non-subject. Building up further on Jacques Derrida’s critique of carno-phallogocentrism, the pedagogy of a relational ethics of “nurturing” is hence presented …

Feminist Geography: Impact And Inclusion In Geographical Research, Michael Atuahene Djan

Nebraska Anthropologist

Feminist theories have significantly influenced the field of geography, challenging traditional notions of objectivity and shedding light on the intricate relationships between place, gender, and society. The emergence of feminist geography has been crucial in advocating for the inclusion of women's perspectives, countering historical marginalization in academic debates. This systematic review aims to summarize and assess the impact of feminist theory on geography, exploring topics such as gendered spaces, feminist methodologies, and the integration of women's voices in research. Utilizing the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) Checklist, the study employed a thematic analysis of secondary sources. …

Ua12/2/85 Sigma Gamma Rho, Wku Archives

WKU Archives Collection Inventories

Records created by and about Sigma Gamma Rho sorority.

Arianism Revised: The Re-Emergence Of An Infamous Heresy, Mia K. Hardy

The Kennesaw Journal of Undergraduate Research

Arian heresy, a Trinitarian heresy that suggests the members of the Trinity differ in essence, function, and rank, has existed in Christianity for centuries but hasn't often recaptured the mainstream discussion of orthodoxy. That is, until the 1970s. Since then, the available literature surrounding the subjects of complementarianism, eternal subordination, the Holy Trinity, and Arian philosophy has grown, and the overlap between these factors cumulated into what was arguably one of the most divisive theological debates within modern Evangelicalism. What factors contributed to the reemergence of this centuries-long debate in modern times? The overarching goal of this work is to …

The Politics Of Naming A Field: Evolution, Controversies, And Strategies Around What We Call “Women’S Studies”, Sydney Lemire

Women’s, Gender, and Sexuality Studies M.A. Final Projects

The name “Women’s, Gender, and Sexuality Studies,” WGSS, is a name rooted in politics and the academy, evidenced by the evolution of the phrasing even in the field’s relatively short history. In an environment where WGSS is under attack from both neo-fascist policies and neo-liberal budget cuts, we must be certain to put our best, most representative foot forward. This project explores (1) the state of the field’s name today and how it has evolved, (2) why this nomenclature is unstable and contradictory, and (3) what the politics of naming reveal about the changes in the field, the challenges it …

Embracing Plurisexuality: Factors Influencing Self-Identification, Jeiselynn N. Rios Rivera

Women’s, Gender, and Sexuality Studies M.A. Final Projects

Plurisexual labels under the Bi+ umbrella are varied in terms of identity categories, their definition, and the experiences of the people who claim them. Previous research exploring this topic has focused on individual narratives, definitions, and experiences under the Bi+ umbrella through survey and interview methods. While valuable knowledge has been gained as scholars make known how these definitions and experiences converge and deviate from each other, there has been little emphasis on the relational aspect of sexual identity labels, their social construction, and how they are navigated in social contexts. This overlooks the relational and social aspect of sexual …