Classical Archaeology and Art History Commons^™

Exploring Dress, Gender, And Bodily Capital Through Pre- And Protohistoric Funerary Contexts: Case Studies From Southwestern Europe, Francisco B. Gomes, Catarina Costeira, Anna Maria Desiderio, Arianna Esposito, Giacomo Bardelli

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

While uneven in their scope and reach, studies of dress and dress complements (fibulae, belt buckles, buttons, etc.) have a significant tradition within the broader study of the pre- and protohistory of Mediterranean Europe. Many of these studies, however, have had a strong focus on the typology of the dress complements and ornaments themselves, either as chronological indicators, ethnic markers, or both. In more recent years, however, a shift in research agendas has ushered in the introduction of new perspectives and new ways of thinking about dress and bodily adornment.

This contribution explores one such perspective in particular — namely, …

Displaying And Experiencing Dress Identities In Museums: Case Studies From The Etruscan Period To Modern Times, Karina Grömer, Astrid Fendt, Morten Grymer-Hansen, Anna Zimmermann, Kayleigh Saunderson, Camilla Cziffery Nielsen, Francisco B. Gomes

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Dress, clothes, and accessories receive and give meaning through their nearness to the human body. As P. Stallybrass writes: “Bodies come and go: the clothes that have received those bodies survive.” It is through the close interaction between dress and person that they both receive their meaning. Clothes shape the human body, and we in return shape our clothes. Dress communicates class, gender, nationality, and marital status, and we leave behind parts of us in its smell, wrinkles, wear, and tear: “Clothes receive the human imprint.” Archaeological and historical dress — no matter how ancient — remain intrinsically linked to …

Red Dyes From West To East In Medieval Europe: From Portuguese Manuscript Illuminations To Romanian Textiles, Irina Petroviciu, Paula Nabais, Maria J. Melo

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Red is the color par excellence, its symbolism being linked with protection and magic through its primary attributes, fire and blood. It was the predominant color from the earliest times, certainly during the Greek and Roman periods and into Medieval Europe, until blue became a competitor around the 13th century. Mineral pigments, like iron oxides, were the first red sources, used to draw lines, dots, or spots on cave walls or stones. Later, other mineral red pigments were also exploited: Cinnabar, natural mercury sulfide, since the Neolithic, and realgar, arsenic trisulfide, in Ancient Egypt. Scientific investigation revealed that, although …

Searching For The Exotic: Textiles, Orientalism, And Identities, Ana Cabrera, Roxana Coman, Karolina A. Kulpa, Tim Parry-Williams

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles, with their economic, sartorial, and identity-constructing functions, have long been at the center of cultural discourses, whether narrative or visual. Objects of desire, but also objects of curiosity, textiles have been the topic of costume books, offered in diplomatic exchanges, collected by private collectors and museums alike, and have traveled, sometimes as sample books. Their Othering function did not only differentiate between members of different civilizations, but also the members of the same society, where clothing was used to signal rank and function. The case studies presented intend to elaborate further on the role and symbolism associated with textiles, …

Clothing In Transition: Social, Symbolic, And Legal Aspects Of Garments From Prehistory To The Early Byzantine Period, Tina Boloti, Francesca Scotti, Cristina Cumbo, Petra Linscheid

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Since ancient times, garments served a wide range of purposes: Either functional, providing protection by covering the body, or symbolic, as an element of non-verbal communication and marker of identity. In particular, this stimulates the development of specific characteristics in shape, decoration, or material composition, which generate distinctions among garments, as acknowledged by Roman jurists too.

These distinctions are determined by various factors. One important factor is the social meaning of clothing: There are garments for public life, garments expressing rank, garments suited for special professions, or garments intended for sacred/priestly rites reflecting particular religious symbols. And, of course, clothes …

Art As Ammunition: The Creative Response To Violence In Ireland, Emma Muchow

Soaring: A Journal of Undergraduate Research

This essay examines the role of murals in Northern Ireland during the Troubles, a period of sectarian violence from 1968 to 1998. It argues that these murals functioned as powerful instruments for both sides of the conflict, serving as a platform to express political ideologies, cultural identities, and lived experiences. The analysis draws upon scholarly works on art and conflict, historical accounts of the Troubles, and examinations of specific murals.

The paper explores the multifaceted role these murals played. It highlights how they served as reflections of the social, political, and cultural tensions of the time. Furthermore, it examines how …

Understanding Gold Textiles: Case Studies Of Gold Threads From The Bronze Age And Antiquity In Europe, Karina Grömer, Francesca Coletti, Francisco B. Gomes, Kayleigh Saunderson

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

The production of textiles, in terms of weaving techniques, has a long history in Europe, and dates back to the Stone Age, the time during which the first farming communities arrived in the Mediterranean and Central Europe, in the 7th/6th millennium BC. The first evidence of textile tools, like spindle whorls and loom weights, demonstrate that people made an important step forward in mechanizing this craft, not only twisting fibers and interlacing strands purely by hand, but also inventing tools to increase efficiency. Through the development of textile techniques, we see the unleashing of enormous creative power that stimulated even …

“What’S In A Name?” Toponyms And Loanwords In European Textile Cultures, Dimitra Andrianou, Klara Dankova, Nade Genevska Brachikj, Angela Huang, Meghan Korten, Elena Miramontes, Jasemin Nazim, Marie-Alice Rebours, Joana Sequeira

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles as man-made products have been exchanged over distances for millennia. They can and have been produced almost anywhere; they are also, as a product, highly differentiated and quickly adjustable to changing demands. This brings with it naming practices to communicate about the goods in question. Textiles are labeled so that people can form expectations about them and rely on the reputation tied to the product’s identity. The terminology of textiles and textile items arises and develops in unison with technical innovations, discoveries, fashions, and trade patterns. Although the occurrence of toponyms e.g., in preindustrial trade (10th to 18th century …

The Terminology Of Soft Furnishings In Ancient Babylonia, Greece, And Rome: A Comparative Approach, Dimitra Andrianou, Elena Miramontes, Louise Quillien

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Various kinds of textiles were used to furnish domestic spaces in Antiquity, such as curtains, covers, hangings, pillows, cushions, mattresses, rugs, tapestries, tablecloths, and towels. These objects have practical and everyday functions, they embellish and add to daily comfort in the house and speak to the owner’s prosperity. Being made of perishable materials, furnishings have, on the whole, not survived in ancient Mesopotamia, Greece, and Rome. Apart from a few excavated pieces of textiles found in tombs, our information comes primarily from written testimonia and iconography.

It is thus essential to consider soft furnishings in their own right, in order …

Textiles, Dress And Politics: A Diachronic Perspective Through The Case Studies Of Ancient Rome And Medieval Iceland, Meghan Korten, Zofia Kaczmarek

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

People dress for more than just aesthetic reasons. Over the centuries, dress became a sign of human civilization, allowing us to identify the origin, gender, and status of the wearer. Textiles and clothing influence our body, posture, movements, and the way we are perceived by society. Textiles are also a tool used by people to further their agenda, that is why they found their place in the political life of many ancient and modern societies.

According to Michel Foucault, power can be understood as a set of activities influencing the life of the other: It provokes, forbids, or permits, but …

Horbat Umm Tabun, Sderot, A-9761/2024, Zvi Firer

Favissa: Past Archaeological Excavation Reports

In July 2024, a trial excavation was conducted in Complex 11, "Teva’ Ba-’Ir" park in Sderot (Permit No. A-9761/2024; map ref. 161495/605693, Fig. 1). The excavation, on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority and funded by the Sderot Economic Company, was directed by Z. Firer and S. Tal, with the assistance of N. Wieler (geology), A. Montague (drafting and map), D. Eisenberg-Degen (drone photography and scientific guidance), Y. Alamor (administration), and laborers from Rahat.

Nahal Hevron (Hevron River) A-9823/2024, Ahinoam Montague

Favissa: Past Archaeological Excavation Reports

In May–June 2024, a trial excavation was conducted along the southern margins of Nahal Hevron, approximately 600 m north of Tel Be’er Sheva’ (Permit No. A-9823/2024; map ref. 184707-5060/573003-337; Fig. 1), in advance of the planned expansion of the ‘Omer wastewater treatment plant. The excavation was carried out on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority and funded by the ‘Omer Local Council. The excavation was directed by A. Montague (modeling and plans), with the assistance of V. Lifshits (Be’er Sheva’ District manager), F. Kobrin (Be’er Sheva’ sub-district manager), Y. Alamor (administration), D. Degen-Eisenberg (supervising archaeologist and aerial photography), I. Azoulay …

Nahal Rom, The Dead Sea A-9841/2024, Dror Halpern

Favissa: Past Archaeological Excavation Reports

In June 2024, a salvage excavation was conducted about 200 m east of Highway 90 (Permit No. A-9841/2024; Map ref. 234720-96/565410-81), prior to the construction of a hotel. The excavation, on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority and funded by Pie Siam Ltd., was directed by D. Halpern (area supervising and field photography), with the assistance of A. Montagu (photography and surveying), Y. Alamor (administration), D. Eisenberg-Degen (scientific consultation), and A. Freiberg, I. Radashkovsky, G. Zohar and T. Sapir (Southern Negev District).

Beit Hanina, Shikune Nusseiba (Nusseiba Neighborhood) (West) A-9808/2024, Mohammad Samhouri

Favissa: Past Archaeological Excavation Reports

In May 2024, a salvage excavation was conducted in the Beit Hanina neighborhood of Jerusalem (Permit No. A-9808/2024; map ref. 220785/637382, Fig. 1). The excavation, on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority and funded by the Gihon Company Ltd., was managed by M. Samhouri, with assistance from N. Nehama (administration), B. Touri and N. Sapir (Jerusalem District), S. Halevi (photography and survey), and A. Zakaim (drafting).

Jerusalem, Melamed Square A-9856/2024, Uriel J. Prince

Favissa: Past Archaeological Excavation Reports

In July 2024, a salvage excavation was conducted at Melamed Square, Givat Shaul, Jerusalem (Permit No. A-9856/2024; map ref. 630831/220817). The excavation, on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority and funded by Moriah, was directed by U.J. Prince and assisted by Y. Zelinger (supervisor), Y. Shalev (Mentor Archaeologist), S. Halevi (field photography and photogrammetry), O. Zakaim (plan and sections) N. Nehama (administration) and Y. Rabinovich (archaeological inspection).

Jerusalem, 18 Charlap St. A-9788/2024, Uriel J. Prince

Favissa: Past Archaeological Excavation Reports

In March 2024, a salvage excavation was conducted in the Kiryat Shmuel neighborhood in central Jerusalem (Permit No. A-9788/2024; Map ref. 220817/630831), following the discovery of the site during an inspection prior to the construction of new apartment buildings. The excavation, on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority and funded by Steven Corporation Ltd., was directed by U.J. Prince, with the assistance of M. Hajabi (supervisor), Y. Shalev (scientific guidance), S. Halevi (documentation), O. Zakaim (plan and sections), N. Nechama (administration) and Z. Matskevich (supervision).

Jerusalem, Hebron Raod A-9756/2024, Rina Avner

Favissa: Past Archaeological Excavation Reports

In February 2024, a trial excavation was conducted on Hebron Road in Jerusalem, about 30 m south of the Bethlehem Road junction (Permit No. A-9756/2024; Map ref. 220326-35/627696-709), following damage to the ceiling of an underground structure during development work on section 21 of the light rail. The excavation, on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority, was directed by R. Avner, with the assistance of Z. Horowitz, M. Chernin and D. Fionov (archaeological inspection), S. Halevi (digital documentation), Y. Shalev (scientific guidance), O. Zakaim (drafting and location map) and A. de Vincent (pottery classification).

Ayelet Ha-Shahar A-9784/2024, Noam Silverberg

Favissa: Past Archaeological Excavation Reports

In March 2024, a trial excavation was conducted in Kibbutz Ayelet Ha-Shahar (Permit No. A-9784/2024; Map ref. 253840-79/769776-99), prior to the construction of an administrative building on the grounds of the 'Mevo HaGalil' School. The excavation, on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority and funded by the Upper Galilee Regional Council., was directed by N. Silverberg (field photography), with the assistance of Y. Yaakobi (administration), A. Kleiner (trial trenches and drone photography), R. Be’eri (scientific guidance), and laborers from Kabul.

Nahal Revaha A-9728/2024;, Dror Halpern

Favissa: Past Archaeological Excavation Reports

In January 2024, a salvage excavation was conducted in Nahal Revaha (Permit No. A-9728/2024; Map ref. 17935-45/56390-401), located c. 2 km west of Highway 40 and 1.7 km northwest of the Neot Hovav Industrial Zone. The excavation was carried out following damage caused to antiquities during infrastructure works prior to the laying of a pipeline by Petroleum & Energy Infrastructures Ltd. The excavation, on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority and funded by Petroleum & Energy Infrastructures Ltd., was directed by D. Halpern (field photography), with the assistance of A. Montagu (field photography and surveying), I. Azulay (plans), Y. Alamor …

The Pie Verb: A New Reconstruction, Percy Huffman

Honors Bachelor of Arts

No abstract provided.

The Roman Language Policy: Its Parts, Presence, And Consequences, Lilianna Darnell

Honors Bachelor of Arts

No abstract provided.

Presenting Past People: Storytelling Through Prehistoric Garment Reconstructions, Floor Huisman, Anna Zimmermann, Ronja Lau, Karina Grömer

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

This paper argues that we need to focus on past people (rather than just objects) in our narratives and museum displays to engage museum visitors more effectively. It will demonstrate that we can use a combination of well-researched physical and digital prehistoric garment reconstructions to implement more people-centered approaches also used in living history, which bring the past to life and allow visitors to literally come face-to-face with long-dead people. In this way, visitors can relate to past people on an emotional level, which helps them to learn much more about past life than many traditional displays. After outlining how …

Frontmatter For Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, And Culture Across Millennia, Kerstin Droß-Krüpe, Louise Quillien, Kalliope Sarri

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Title and copyright pages, Acknowledgments, Contents, Prefaces.

We believe this volume has the potential to contribute to the advancement of European scientific excellence and competitiveness, fostering a deeper understanding of the cultural, technological, and societal significance of textiles and clothing in shaping European identity and heritage through the millenia. We hope that the anthology will find a wide and interested readership, and that it will inspire many new research projects in the field of textile history.

Technical And Technological Analyses Of Excavated Textiles, Christina Margariti, Judith Goris, Petra Linscheid, Agata Ulanowska

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles are particularly complex and labor-intensive structures, thus their constructive elements, such as fibers and yarns, as well as the final textile products (e.g., threads, cords, fabrics, and applied decoration) reveal a range of important technical, technological, and sociocultural information. In this paper, we discuss the analysis of excavated textiles at two levels:

1) Technical analysis that offers basic information about the qualities of examined textile samples.

2) Technological analysis that provides insights into technology, social relations of production, and the level of craft specialization or production modes.

Both analyses offer new evidence for environmental resources, sustainability, trade, and exchange, …

Investigating Organic Colorants Across Time: Interdisciplinary Insights Into The Use Of Madder, Indigo/Woad, And Weld In Historical Written Sources, Archaeological Textiles, And Ancient Polychromy, Paula Nabais, Cecilie Brøns, Magdalena M. Wozniak

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Organic dyes have been used from the earliest times to provide color primarily to textiles, but also as a colorant in painting. Such organic dyes could create a wealth of colors, depending on the availability and know-how of resources. These dyes are usually organic in nature, and primarily obtained from different plant sources. Unfortunately, the characterization of natural organic colorants in textiles and artworks is still a challenge. The difficulty of analyzing these materials is sometimes allied to the frequent impossibility of micro-sampling, and the frailty of the objects. Many techniques, such as HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography) and SERS (Surface-Enhanced …

Towards Textile Narratives: A Cross-Over Perspective On Textile Imagery In Statuary, Iconography, And Literature, Leyre Morgado-Roncal, Juliane Müller, Marisa Kerbizi

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles and clothing constitute a fundamental element of our cultural past, present, and future. Therefore, they were also represented in many mediums, such as iconographic depictions and literature. Images are a source of visual and mental illustration and are often dependent on the viewer’s perspective. As a result, the representations of textiles convey social constructions and their cultural perception. Their study is the focal point of this article: The ways in which textiles and clothing are described by the imagery shown in Greek and Roman statuary and iconography, as well as in contemporary Albanian literature and mythology.

Representations illustrate the …

Young Romans: Status, Dress, And Gender, Mary Harlow, Lena Larsson Lovén

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

The demographics of the Roman world suggest that it was a world full of children. Demographers argue that in order simply to maintain population levels in a period where life expectancy was very short by modern standards, and infant mortality high, a woman should, on average, have six children, on the assumption that not all would live to adulthood. Despite much research in the last fifty years, children still remain partly invisible in the Roman world. This is primarily because they leave little evidence produced by themselves and are seen through the prism of adult eyes. Inevitably, given the nature …

Narrative And Material Tools Of Resistance: Mobilizing Textile Crafts, Heritage, And Fashion In The Context Of The Invasion Of Ukraine (2022–2023), Magali-An Berthon, Sophia Hayda, Tetiana Krupa, Yuliia Lazorenko, Marie-Louise Nosch

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

In 2022–2024, textile and fashion scholars came together to write an anthology sharing a new vision of European history as seen through textiles, in the COST Action EuroWeb. During this period, the continent was still dealing with the consequences of the COVID-19 pandemic and was then faced with Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022. Contemporary European history will be markedly defined by the ongoing war in Ukraine. One remarkable aspect of this conflict is the way textiles and dress appear daily in a variety of media outlets, mobilized as visual and semiotic means to communicate issues of war …

A Sensory Perspective On High-Ranked Women’S Dress In The 8th To 4th Century Bc In The Mediterranean And Central Europe, Karina Grömer, Susanna Harris, Audrey Gouy, Cecilie Brøns

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

In the late 20th century, the study of western science was dominated by a philosophical approach to evidence as text and meaning. In archaeology, material culture was treated like text, to be read through systems of signs, symbols, and indices put together in syntax. For studies of dress, this was influential in understanding dress as a cognitive system compiled to create identities and meaning. In this approach, textiles, fastenings, hairstyles, and gestures are presented as signs and symbols used to form a statement about identity, to be read by others. There was a focus on the visuality of dress and …

Jerusalem, Mishmar Ha-Gvul St. A-9831, Rachel Waysman

Favissa: Past Archaeological Excavation Reports

In June 2024, a salvage excavation (Permit No. A-9831; map ref. 221120-36/634103-17; Fig. 1) was conducted in a residential building on a private plot at 5 Mishmar Ha-Gvul St. in the Ramat Eshkol neighborhood of Jerusalem, as part of a Tama 38 urban renewal project. The excavation, undertaken on behalf of the Israel Antiquities Authority and funded by Meshi Y. K. Construction and Development Ltd., was directed by N. Rom, with the assistance of N. Nehama (administration), S. Baley and A. Patchuro (supervision), S. Halevi and V. Vasman (photogrammetry and modeling), O. Zakaim (drafting), Y. Shalev and Z. Kanias (Jerusalem …