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Frontmatter For Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, And Culture Across Millennia, Kerstin Droß-Krüpe, Louise Quillien, Kalliope Sarri

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Title and copyright pages, Acknowledgments, Contents, Prefaces.

We believe this volume has the potential to contribute to the advancement of European scientific excellence and competitiveness, fostering a deeper understanding of the cultural, technological, and societal significance of textiles and clothing in shaping European identity and heritage through the millenia. We hope that the anthology will find a wide and interested readership, and that it will inspire many new research projects in the field of textile history.

Technical And Technological Analyses Of Excavated Textiles, Christina Margariti, Judith Goris, Petra Linscheid, Agata Ulanowska

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles are particularly complex and labor-intensive structures, thus their constructive elements, such as fibers and yarns, as well as the final textile products (e.g., threads, cords, fabrics, and applied decoration) reveal a range of important technical, technological, and sociocultural information. In this paper, we discuss the analysis of excavated textiles at two levels:

1) Technical analysis that offers basic information about the qualities of examined textile samples.

2) Technological analysis that provides insights into technology, social relations of production, and the level of craft specialization or production modes.

Both analyses offer new evidence for environmental resources, sustainability, trade, and exchange, …

Investigating Organic Colorants Across Time: Interdisciplinary Insights Into The Use Of Madder, Indigo/Woad, And Weld In Historical Written Sources, Archaeological Textiles, And Ancient Polychromy, Paula Nabais, Cecilie Brøns, Magdalena M. Wozniak

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Organic dyes have been used from the earliest times to provide color primarily to textiles, but also as a colorant in painting. Such organic dyes could create a wealth of colors, depending on the availability and know-how of resources. These dyes are usually organic in nature, and primarily obtained from different plant sources. Unfortunately, the characterization of natural organic colorants in textiles and artworks is still a challenge. The difficulty of analyzing these materials is sometimes allied to the frequent impossibility of micro-sampling, and the frailty of the objects. Many techniques, such as HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography) and SERS (Surface-Enhanced …

Towards Textile Narratives: A Cross-Over Perspective On Textile Imagery In Statuary, Iconography, And Literature, Leyre Morgado-Roncal, Juliane Müller, Marisa Kerbizi

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles and clothing constitute a fundamental element of our cultural past, present, and future. Therefore, they were also represented in many mediums, such as iconographic depictions and literature. Images are a source of visual and mental illustration and are often dependent on the viewer’s perspective. As a result, the representations of textiles convey social constructions and their cultural perception. Their study is the focal point of this article: The ways in which textiles and clothing are described by the imagery shown in Greek and Roman statuary and iconography, as well as in contemporary Albanian literature and mythology.

Representations illustrate the …

Young Romans: Status, Dress, And Gender, Mary Harlow, Lena Larsson Lovén

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

The demographics of the Roman world suggest that it was a world full of children. Demographers argue that in order simply to maintain population levels in a period where life expectancy was very short by modern standards, and infant mortality high, a woman should, on average, have six children, on the assumption that not all would live to adulthood. Despite much research in the last fifty years, children still remain partly invisible in the Roman world. This is primarily because they leave little evidence produced by themselves and are seen through the prism of adult eyes. Inevitably, given the nature …

Narrative And Material Tools Of Resistance: Mobilizing Textile Crafts, Heritage, And Fashion In The Context Of The Invasion Of Ukraine (2022–2023), Magali-An Berthon, Sophia Hayda, Tetiana Krupa, Yuliia Lazorenko, Marie-Louise Nosch

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

In 2022–2024, textile and fashion scholars came together to write an anthology sharing a new vision of European history as seen through textiles, in the COST Action EuroWeb. During this period, the continent was still dealing with the consequences of the COVID-19 pandemic and was then faced with Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022. Contemporary European history will be markedly defined by the ongoing war in Ukraine. One remarkable aspect of this conflict is the way textiles and dress appear daily in a variety of media outlets, mobilized as visual and semiotic means to communicate issues of war …

A Sensory Perspective On High-Ranked Women’S Dress In The 8th To 4th Century Bc In The Mediterranean And Central Europe, Karina Grömer, Susanna Harris, Audrey Gouy, Cecilie Brøns

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

In the late 20th century, the study of western science was dominated by a philosophical approach to evidence as text and meaning. In archaeology, material culture was treated like text, to be read through systems of signs, symbols, and indices put together in syntax. For studies of dress, this was influential in understanding dress as a cognitive system compiled to create identities and meaning. In this approach, textiles, fastenings, hairstyles, and gestures are presented as signs and symbols used to form a statement about identity, to be read by others. There was a focus on the visuality of dress and …

[Review Of The Book Reading Underwater Wreckage: An Encrusting Ocean, By K. Quigley], Ingo Heidbrink

History Faculty Publications

[Introduction] Anyone with expectations that a book titled Reading Underwater Wreckage is a methodological handbook for maritime archaeologists or anyone with interest in analyzing artifacts sunken into the deep of the oceans as material for historical research will be deeply disappointed by Killian Quigley's new book. But for readers who are interested in new approaches to look at submerged artifacts or wrecks, who are willing to give up the disciplinary confines of academia, who are interested in nonhuman actors' involvement in artistic processes, or in other words, who are willing to look below the surface through a different lens, Quigley's …

17th Century Ecumenical Activities Between Ecumenical Patriarchate And The Early Protestant Churches, Svetoslav Ribolov

Occasional Papers on Religion in Eastern Europe

The ecumenical activities and contacts between the Ecumenical Patriarchate and the Protestant churches in the 17th century were largely shaped by two remarkable figures of the Orthodox Church–the Patriarch of Constantinople Cyril Lucaris and Metrophanes Kritopoulos, who later became the Patriarch of Alexandria. Their sincere desire for contact with Protestant theologians, along with their commitment to open dialogue and cooperation was the most important factor in Orthodox-Protestant relations in that era. However, while the political climate in Europe initially allowed for some rapprochement between Christians in the Ottoman Empire and those who had embraced the Reformation, things eventually changed after …

Full Issue

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

No abstract provided.

End Matter

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

No abstract provided.

John Dickinson's "Falling Away In Politics," 1774-1776, Matthew Harris

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

Of all the Founding Fathers, recorded Benjamin Rush, "few men wrote, spoke and acted more for their country from the years [of] 1764 to the establishment of the federal government than [John] Dickinson." He was one of the only Founding Fathers to play a leading role in most of the significant events surrounding the birth of the American republic-from the Stamp Act Congress in 1765 to the Constitutional Convention of 1787. Yet his standing today compared to that of his fellow revolutionaries is shamefully obscure in view of his contributions.

Another Look At Japanese Relocation During World War Ii, Anna Maria Allen

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

The U.S. government's rationale for relocating people of Japanese ancestry during World War II is seldom explained. Most attention since President Franklin D. Roosevelt issued the order permitting the relocation of individuals of Japanese ancestry from the West Coast to areas in the interior of the United States has naturally been placed on the plight of the people involved. Present popular historical perspective usually interprets this relocation as a constitutional violation worthy of redress from the United States government although historical evidence suggests that at the time the order was issued the action was considered a critical part of U.S. …

Anglo-Saxons And The Irish Sea, Ryan Patrick Crisp

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

Recently, Peter Brown described the Irish Sea in the early Middle Ages as "a Celtic 'Mediterranean of the north."' That assessment may be more than this small sea can measure up to, but sufficient evidence concludes that there was substantial naval activity in this area during the early Middle Ages. Interestingly, the Anglo-Saxons, though they had access to the Irish Sea, never ventured forth upon these waters in great numbers. This fact makes their few voyages upon this Celtic lake worth examining.

Prague Spring, Prelude To The Velvet Revolution, Travis Mueller

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

In the late 1980s, the world watched communism topple. Political and economic reforms started by Gorbachev in the Soviet Union caused a chain reaction in the Soviet Eastern European satellite states. These countries finally felt able to initiate their own reforms and for the first time in decades the people could collectively voice their opinions. Particularly notable was the Czechoslovak popular movement of the late 1980s chat froze the power of the Soviet-supported government and forced its leaders to resign. This revolution, known as the Velvet Revolution, is unique among ocher political revolutions in chat it was almost entirely peaceful, …

The Voice Of Inexperience, Erika Rummel

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

Erasmus had a great deal to say about marriage. He wrote a eulogy on marriage, a handbook of marriage, and half a dozen dialogues dealing with courtship and marriage. Altogether we have a thousand printed pages of good advice, a remarkable fact when you consider chat the man who dispensed all this good advice about marriage remained unmarried himself.

The Russel B. Swensen Lecture

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

After graduating from Brigham Young University in 1926, Russel B. Swensen (1902-1987) taught seminary in Mesa, Arizona, and later in Kamas and Hurricane, Utah. In 1930, Joseph F. Merrill, then LDS Church commissioner of education, invited Swensen, along with two others, to attend the University of Chicago Divinity School. There he received an M.A. and Ph.D. in New Testament Studies.

Preface, Christopher Oscarson

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

Quite often, we take writing for granted. The sublime simplicity of mere symbols or scratches on a page escapes our attention as we search for more significant sources of meaning in a memory that can be only fleeting and fragmentary at best. But what could be more fundamental to our source of self and community than language and, by extension, writing? Human beings could not be saved from living in an eternal present if they lacked the ability given them by language to reflect. Community with others can be formed only if there is a means of preserving and sharing …

Front Matter

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

No abstract provided.

Full Issue

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

No abstract provided.

End Matter

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

No abstract provided.

The Hungarian Secret Police And The Budapest Uprising Of 1956, Stuart Schulzke

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

For fourteen days during late October and early November of 1956, Hungary staged a revolution and set up an autonomous government. The Hungarians forced Soviet military personnel to withdraw only to see them reenter the country, reestablish Soviet authority, and overthrow the short-lived Hungarian government. This sequence of events suggests an occupied nation's predictable reaction against foreign influence. However, it obscures one of the most critical aspects of Hungary's Revolution in 1956: the role of the Hungarian State Secret Police. Probably no governmental branch in Hungarian history has been more hated by the Hungarian people than the Allamvedelmi Hatosag (AVH), …

Edvard Benes And His Policy To Expel Czechoslovakian Germans, Travis Mueller

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

At the end of World War II, Poland, Romania, Hungary, and the Czechoslovak Republic expelled fifteen million Germans from their homelands in Eastern and Central Europe. During the eviction to the occupied zones of Germany, two million Germans perished.1 Often brutally mistreated, these Germans suffered the wrath of a great European backlash against the Nazis. Nowhere was the expulsion more brutal than in the Czechoslovak Republic. The two nations' shared border and intertwined history made the expulsion of over three million Germans mainly from the Sudetenland-particularly severe.

Medicine And The Mines, Troy Madsen

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

When Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad laborers stumbled onto eastern Utah's coal deposits in 1881, they sparked the development of Carbon County's explosive mining communities. Known across the state for their rampant disorder and untamed energy, the volatile coal mining towns of eastern Utah departed dramatically from the ecclesiastical, agrarian societies dotting the rest of Utah's map. Raucous taverns and seamy brothels quickly surfaced along Main Street in Helper. Violent union strikes shook the foundations of the communities' coal companies. Dark clouds of imminent danger hung continually above the portals of the region's somber, murky mines. Deeply rooted ethnic …

Postmodern Philosophy And Its Influence On Modern Museum Theory And Development, Mauri Liljenquist

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

History legitimizes its role in society through the benefits it provides for the public. The idea of history in the ivory tower, while it appeals to some historians and scholars, can never be sufficient to justify the field. Instead it is what emerges from the ivory tower and how that product influences and affects the outside world that determines the value of historical endeavors. The dissemination of history to the public is one of the most significant aspects of the profession. Accuracy and integrity in research and writing are the primary responsibilities of the historian. Following these, the next most …

Perpetuated Inferiority, Kristine Ashton

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

Nineteenth-century schools taught more than reading, writing, and arithmetic. They were expected to convey patriotism and civic responsibility and to mold moral character. While publishers designed textbooks to teach children to spell and to read, they also inculcated the books with social values through word choice and lesson plans. The printers, journalists, teachers, and ministers who wrote the schoolbooks selectively filled their pages with political, economic, social, and moral concepts that shaped children's views of their nation's past and their position within the present society.

The Meanings Of The Millennium, Bernard J. Mcginn

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

As we approach the year 2000-2001 of what we now ecumenically term the Common Era words like millennium and apocalypse seem to meet us everywhere. Millennial madness, as I call it, may be in large part a media event, but no age in Western history has lacked for those who believed that the end of history, which is what the word apocalypse signifies for most people, was near. While apocalypse conjures up images of dread and destruction in most minds, the history of the broader phenomenon of apocalypticism in Christianity, Judaism, and Islam, has always been an intricate fusion of …

The Russel B. Swensen Lecture

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

After graduating from Brigham Young University in 1926, Russel B. Swensen (1902-1987) taught seminary in Mesa, Arizona, and later in Kamas and Hurricane, Utah. In 1930, Joseph F. Merrill, the LDS Church commissioner of education, invited Swensen, along with two others, to attend the University of Chicago Divinity School. There Swensen received an M.A. and Ph.D. in New Testament Studies.

Preface, Janiece Johnson

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

Perhaps the most salient memory I have from my History 200 class, other than Professor Doug Tobler's engaging laugh, is his maxim that writing makes us responsible for our words. This idea has stayed with me through many long nights in front of a computer monitor, and although I still cannot say that I want to be responsible for every word I have written, we learn by doing and the proverb endures.

Front Matter

The Thetean: A Student Journal for Scholarly Historical Writing

No abstract provided.