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Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts

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Full-Text Articles in Art Practice

Sumptuary Synergy: British Imperialism Through The Tartan And Slave Trades, David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders Jan 2016

Sumptuary Synergy: British Imperialism Through The Tartan And Slave Trades, David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Sumptuary laws have been a useful tool for various national powers in regulating subjects and to promote class differentiation and business interests. The genesis of this study was one such law, entitled the South Carolina Negro Act of 1735, stipulating that slave garments could only be made of low-quality textiles. These fabrics were reflective of slaves living in chattel environments, thus also representing a slave’s status in society. This law forbade slaves from wearing “any sort of garment or apparel whatsoever, finer, other or of greater value than Negro cloth, duffels, coarse kerseys, osnabrigs, blue linen, check linen, or coarse …


Veiled In Ignorance And Clothed In Reason: Jimmie Durham’S 2014 Exhibition Traces And Shiny Evidence, Andrea Feeser Jan 2016

Veiled In Ignorance And Clothed In Reason: Jimmie Durham’S 2014 Exhibition Traces And Shiny Evidence, Andrea Feeser

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the 2014 London exhibition “Traces and Shiny Evidence,” Jimmie Durham showed on one floor brightly colored oil barrels, car parts, pcv pipes, and reproduction animal skeletons covered with or leaking ooze that shimmered with rainbow hues. On a floor one level up, Durham exhibited wall size drawing-prints he made by throwing stuffed animals coated with charcoal at very large pieces of paper. In the video that recorded Durham making the drawing-prints, the artist wears a workman’s vest labeled “Steiner. Maison de la Paix.” A video that is featured in the exhibition itself shows Durham in a business suit seated …


Sabba Syal Elahi Interview (2 Of 2), Derek Hamilton Jan 2016

Sabba Syal Elahi Interview (2 Of 2), Derek Hamilton

Asian American Art Oral History Project

Bio: Sabba Syal Elahi is an interdisciplinary artist, educator, and cultural worker and focuses her art practice in fibers and drawing/painting. She grew up in a traditional Pakistani household in the Midwest. Her art explores political violence, historical representation, memory, and it’s impact on the South Asian Diaspora and Muslim American communities. Recently, Sabba was a 2013-2014 Resident Artist in Chicago Artist Coalition’s Bolt Program and exhibited her work at Woman Made Gallery. For the past 6 years Sabba has provided college and career counseling and portfolio development with an emphasis on the visual arts for high school students at …


Sabba Syal Elahi Interview (1 Of 2), Simi Mathew Jan 2016

Sabba Syal Elahi Interview (1 Of 2), Simi Mathew

Asian American Art Oral History Project

Bio: Sabba Syal Elahi received her M.F.A. from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, and her art has been featured nationally at ArtWallah, internationally in Spain and Pakistan, and in the Chicagoland area. Sabba’s artwork is rooted in her bicultural experience and explores issues of cultural and historical representation, identity, and gender through personal, family, and community narratives. From 2011-2009 Sabba curated the visual art for an annual Chicago event called Voices of Resistance, which showcased the work of Chicago and Midwest based South Asian artists. Sabba has served four years as Coordinator of College and Career Programs …


Blanket Statements, Issue 121, Fall 2015 Oct 2015

Blanket Statements, Issue 121, Fall 2015

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 121, Fall 2015


Review Of Woven Luxuries: Indian, Persian, Turkish Velvets From The Indictor Collection, Carol Bier Sep 2015

Review Of Woven Luxuries: Indian, Persian, Turkish Velvets From The Indictor Collection, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

LUXURIANT AND extravagant are words that come to mind to describe the sheen of brightly coloured velvets on display in this small but stellar exhibition at San Francisco’s Asian Art Museum, on view to 1 November. The exhibition presents an exceptional private collection of exquisitely designed velvets woven in lands of the Mughal, Safavid, and Ottoman empires during the 15th through 17th centuries. Robust blossoms, sinuous vines, and stylised flowers are among the many designs that characterise Mughal, Safavid and Ottoman textiles, including sumptuous velvets with raised pile and metallic threads that shimmer in changing light. Together the products of …


Blanket Statements, Issue 120, Summer 2015 Jul 2015

Blanket Statements, Issue 120, Summer 2015

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 120, Summer 2015


Blanket Statements, Issue 119, Spring 2015 Apr 2015

Blanket Statements, Issue 119, Spring 2015

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 119, Spring 2015


Blanket Statements, Issue 122, Winter 2015–2016 Jan 2015

Blanket Statements, Issue 122, Winter 2015–2016

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 122, Winter 2015–2016


Review Of Eric Broug, Islamic Geometric Design, Carol Bier Jan 2015

Review Of Eric Broug, Islamic Geometric Design, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

From the eleventh century C.E., Islamic geometric patterns have continued to evolve in complexity, contributing a distinct aspect of Islamic art and architecture that covers a broad geographic range and temporal spectrum. The underlying principles of these patterns are brilliantly explained in narrative and visual formats by Eric Broug, a Dutch design professional, self-trained and with an M.A. in the history of Islamic architecture from SOAS in London. Offering both an analytical and practical understanding of the construction of Islamic geometric patterns, this book is an unusual hybrid of scholarship and art, combining the qualities of a coffeetable bibelot and …


Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 36 (2015), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Gail Bakkom, Linda Baumgarten, Amanda Grace Sikarskie, Terry Tickhall Terrell Jan 2015

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 36 (2015), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Gail Bakkom, Linda Baumgarten, Amanda Grace Sikarskie, Terry Tickhall Terrell

Uncoverings Journal

Foreword by Lynne Zacek Bassett

Vase-Pattern Wholecloth Quilts in the Eighteenth-Century Quaker Community by Linda Baumgarten

The Elizabeth Stanton Inscribed Quaker Quilt by Terry Tickhill Terrell

“Candlewicks”: White Embroidered Counterpanes in America 1790–1880 by Gail Bakkom

Erica Wilson and the Quilt Revival by Amanda Sikarskie

Contributors

Index


Geometry: Drawing From The Islamic Tradition, Carol Bier Jan 2015

Geometry: Drawing From The Islamic Tradition, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Getting students involved in careful observation and analysis and encouraging their exploration of cultural forms of expression is an excellent means of introducing mathematical ideas. Geometric patterns abound in Islamic art and architecture. Exhibiting great ingenuity over the centuries, Muslim artists and craftsmen created beautiful patterns to adorn architectural monuments and exquisite objects. The Alhambra in Spain and the Taj Mahal in India offer the most famous examples of extraordinary patterns using brick and glazed tile, or carved and inlaid marble. Other examples of patterns are made using metal, wood, and fiber. Students may gain conceptual and theoretical understanding of …


Reviving Project:A Chinese-American Culture Exchange Project, Yushan Cassie Sun Jan 2015

Reviving Project:A Chinese-American Culture Exchange Project, Yushan Cassie Sun

UROP Posters

Through art exhibitions in Beijing, China and Richmond, Virginia, Reviving project 01 aims to help promote/ revive a craft technique in Qinghai, China that is disappearing due to the urbanized surroundings.

American artist were invited to collaborate with people from Qinghai to make new pieces incorporating original crafted pieces.


Blanket Statements, Issue 117, Fall 2014 Oct 2014

Blanket Statements, Issue 117, Fall 2014

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 117, Fall 2014


Flax Fibre: Innovation And Change In The Early Neolithic; A Technological And Material Perspective, Susanna Harris Sep 2014

Flax Fibre: Innovation And Change In The Early Neolithic; A Technological And Material Perspective, Susanna Harris

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Flax (Linum sp.) was one of the first domestic plants in Neolithic Europe, providing a potential cultivable source of fibres for the first farmers. As the plant provides both oil and fibre, it is a matter of enquiry as to whether the plant was first domesticated for its seeds or stem. Through examining new data collected by the EUROEVOL Project, UCL it is possible to chart the earliest archaeobotanical evidence for flax species in Europe. This provides the basis on which to consider the origin of fibres from the flax plant (linen) as a basis for change and innovation …


Blanket Statements, Issue 116, Summer 2014 Jul 2014

Blanket Statements, Issue 116, Summer 2014

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 116, Summer 2014


Blanket Statements, Issue 115, Spring 2014 Apr 2014

Blanket Statements, Issue 115, Spring 2014

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 115, Spring 2014


Dressing The Leader, Dressing The Ancestor: The Longue Durée In The South Central Andes, Ann H. Peters Jan 2014

Dressing The Leader, Dressing The Ancestor: The Longue Durée In The South Central Andes, Ann H. Peters

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The preservation and adornment of the dead in the South Central Andes can be traced over some twelve thousand years. The potential for preservation of human bodies and fine textiles in desert sands and high altitude caves contributed to a continuing social and political role of the dead in the lives of the living. Colonial period documents describe well-dressed mortuary bundles that participated in public ritual and could be cited as proof of heritage and validation of social leadership. However, the nature of social and political ancestry and its relationship to power change over time with the development of large-scale …


Conversationa And Encounter, Belinda Von Mengrsen Jan 2014

Conversationa And Encounter, Belinda Von Mengrsen

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Textile artists often use items of traditional textile material culture as sites for primary research or encounter within their conceptual and physical practice. This research practice is, however, far more than aesthetic or visual analysis: rather, it allows for the observation of that border territory in which a new work of art begins and ends—the very place from which the ideas come—and also of how influences are layered, and evolve within our psyche. Ruth Hadlow, has described the use of traditional West-Timorese woven textiles as “a ‘tool’ with which to think?” (Hadlow, 2013). Through such tools, primary research may operate …


A Fragmented Treasure On Display: The Turfan Textile Collection And The Humboldt Forum, Mariachiara Gasparini Jan 2014

A Fragmented Treasure On Display: The Turfan Textile Collection And The Humboldt Forum, Mariachiara Gasparini

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the summer 2012, thanks to the Department of Central Asian Art of the museum and the International Dunhuang Project (IDP) at the British Library in London, UK, the so-called Turfan textile collection--gathered during the last century Prussian Turfan Royal Expeditions in the Tarim Basin--held in the Museum of Asian Art in Berlin, Germany, was finally microscopically analyzed and digitized. Except for a couple of pieces taken into account in previous studies as examples of comparison, the collection as a whole (ca. 350 pieces) has not enjoyed particular attention from scholars in the fields of Chinese or Central Asian art …


Blanket Statements, Issue 118, Winter 2014–2015 Jan 2014

Blanket Statements, Issue 118, Winter 2014–2015

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 118, Winter 2014–2015


Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 35 (2014), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Nancy C. Bavor, Joyce D. Hammond, Marin F. Hanson, Laurel Horton, Christine E. Humphrey Jan 2014

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 35 (2014), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Nancy C. Bavor, Joyce D. Hammond, Marin F. Hanson, Laurel Horton, Christine E. Humphrey

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Lynne Zacek Bassett

Knockers, Pickers, Movers, and Shakers: Quilt Dealers in America, 1970-2000 by Nancy C. Bavor

Tlfaifai in Tahiti: Embracing Change by Joyce D. Hammond

"One Hundred Good Wishes Quilts": Expressions of Cross-Cultural Communication by Marin F. Hanson

Weft-Loop Woven Counterpanes in the New Republic: The Rediscovery of a Textile Legacy by Laurel Horton

Quilt Documentation Projects, 1980-1989: Exploring the Roots of an National Phenomenon by Christine E. Humphrey

Contributors

Index


Inscribed Cotton Ikat From Yemen In The Tenth Century Ce, Carol Bier Jan 2014

Inscribed Cotton Ikat From Yemen In The Tenth Century Ce, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

More than a thousand years ago, Baghdad was capital of the Islamic empire under the Abbasid caliphs, and Yemen was a flourishing center of agriculture and trade. Among its famous products were dyestuffs, and cotton cloth with warp stripes, patterned using techniques of compression resist. As the strength of the Abbasid caliphate declined and claims to power gained hold in the provinces, regional artistic styles began to emerge. The rulers of Yemen adopted one of the prerogatives of the Abbasid caliphs, bestowing honor by rewarding their subjects with inscribed textiles called tiraz. From burial sites in Egypt, many such textiles …


Robert Hillestad, Professor And Fiber Artist, Marilyn Delong Jan 2014

Robert Hillestad, Professor And Fiber Artist, Marilyn Delong

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Department Information

Dr. Hillestad has been a member of the Costume Society of America since 1978 and has participated in many annual Symposia. Dr. Hillestad has multi-faceted abilities—he is a superb design educator as well as an active fiber and apparel artist—and he integrates the two roles of educator and artist expressively, superbly, and elegantly. Dr. Hillestad is professor emeritus at the University of Nebraska, Lincoln. In 1997, The Robert Hillestad Textiles Gallery on the Lincoln Campus of the University of Nebraska was named in his honor upon recommendation of the faculty in the Department of Textiles, Clothing and Design and the …


Sinan’S Screens: Networks Of Intersecting Polygons In Ottoman Architecture, Carol Bier Jan 2014

Sinan’S Screens: Networks Of Intersecting Polygons In Ottoman Architecture, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

An often overlooked characteristic of Sinan’s architectural production of the 16th century is the use of low screening walls and windows carved of marble with pierced openwork or tracery to let in light and allow for air circulation. Typically these screens display polygonal networks often with intersecting polygons. This paper explores aspects of these carved patterns, which have antecedents in earlier Islamic architecture, attributing particular significance to this architectural feature in the works of Sinan and three successors whom he had trained. These slabs (and their counterparts in forged iron) may be considered études, serving as opportunities for the training …


Blanket Statements, Issue 113, Fall 2013 Oct 2013

Blanket Statements, Issue 113, Fall 2013

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 113, Fall 2013


Blanket Statements, Issue 112, Summer 2013 Jul 2013

Blanket Statements, Issue 112, Summer 2013

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 112, Summer 2013


Blanket Statements, Issue 111, Spring 2013 Apr 2013

Blanket Statements, Issue 111, Spring 2013

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 111, Spring 2013


Blanket Statements, Issue 114, Winter 2013–2014 Jan 2013

Blanket Statements, Issue 114, Winter 2013–2014

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 114, Winter 2013–2014


Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 34 (2013), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Hallie E. Bond, Cheryl Cheek, Sharon Fulton Pinka, Merikay Waldvogel, Sarah Bliss Wright Jan 2013

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 34 (2013), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Hallie E. Bond, Cheryl Cheek, Sharon Fulton Pinka, Merikay Waldvogel, Sarah Bliss Wright

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Lynne Zacek Bassett

Adirondack Quilts and Comforters: A Regional Study by Hallie E. Bond

The "Cooish" Rescue of the Quilt in Harry Kelly's Cottage by Cheryl Cheek

Lowcountry Chintz: The Townsend/Pope Quilt Legacy by Sharon Fulton Pinka

Printed Panels for Chintz Quilts: Their Origin and Use by Merikay Waldvogel

Alabama Cotton and Bemis Bags: Pieced into Quilt History by Sarah Bliss Wright

Contributors

Index