Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons^™

“Meshed With A Million Veins”: Seafaring Networks & The Norfolk Sampler, Joanne Martin Lukacher

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The title of this article is taken from a line of a poem by the 19th-century Georgia poet Sidney Lanier and is presented as an homage to the location of the 2016 TSA conference. “And the marsh is meshed with a million veins” is Lanier’s description of “The Marshes of Glynn” in his poem of the same name, Glynn being one of the Atlantic coastal counties south of Savannah. I have taken this alliterative evocation of the sinuous verge of land and sea as a metaphorical point of embarkation for a discussion of the distinctive needlework of another, more distant, …

The Power Of Color: Anatolian Kilims, Sumru Belger Krody

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The kilims of Anatolia are great contemplative and minimalist works of art as stated by a kilim enthusiast.1 Created by women who had a magnificent eye for design and an awesome sense of color, these textiles are prized for the purity and harmony of their color, the integrity of their powerful overall design, their masterfully controlled weave structure, and their fine texture. The kilims are large tapestry-woven textiles. The visually stunning and colorful Anatolian kilims communicate the aesthetic choices of the village and nomadic women who created them. Yet, while invested with such artistry, Anatolian kilims first and foremost were …

For What It’S Worth: The French Knot As A Basic Trade Commodity, Jeana Eve Klein

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

For nearly twenty years, my primary studio production has been in the form of mixed media quilts. These quilts draw—both visually and conceptually—on the abandoned houses that color the landscape of my North Carolina mountain home. They are constructed using traditional quilting techniques married with digital processes and acrylic paint—a hybrid product that lands at the intersection of fibers, photography, painting and digital media. Although their conceptual purpose is to investigate the narrative past, present and future of these homes and their values, the questions with which I am most often quizzed at exhibitions focus purely on time and technique: …

Here And There, Now, Sandra Heffernan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A textile installation shaped by traditional embroidery, geographical differences, technology and novel natural dye is the focus of this paper. ‘Through the globe’ [Através do globo] is the result of a six week artist in residency at Contextile 2016 in Guimarães, Portugal.1 It builds upon environmental pest invasive weed dye research, interprets ‘traditional’ embroidery illustrating the poetics of place.2 The essence of Guimarães embroidery provides the narrative along the fourteen metre length and is the physical embodiment of the antipodal link between and Wellington, New Zealand. The challenge offered by Contextile 2016 was to collaborate with Oficina embroiderers to learn, …

Some National Goods In 1871: The Rebozo, Marta Turok

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The history of rebozos and jaspe (ikat) in Mexico still presents many enigmas and fertile field for research. Public and private collections in Mexican and foreign museums preserve a variety of rebozos from the mid-18th through the 20th centuries. However, it has been complicated to correlate these extant pieces with exact places of production and dates. Other sources such as written accounts and images focus mostly on their social uses, sometimes places of production or sale are merely mentioned yet techniques and designs are the information least dealt with. Virginia Davis mentions this problem while analyzing the Frederick Church collection …

The Merchants And The Dyers: The Rise Of A Dyeing Service Industry In Massachusetts And New York 1800-1850, Linda Jean Thorsen

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Histories of dyeing in the United States have tended to emphasize home craft processes, early textile manufacturing, or the growth of synthetic dyes. But in the first decades of the nineteenth century, a vibrant independent dyeing service industry emerged in U.S. port cities. Using natural dyes, working with a variety of fibers, colors, and finishing processes, and developing sophisticated skills and equipment, these dyers served import merchants, retailers, elite households, and businesses such as hotels. They received cloth, garments, or home furnishings, cleaned, bleached, and/or dyed them, and then returned them “like new.” To satisfy customers, these businesses had to …

Artist At Sea: Codes And Cargo, Kelly Thompson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The themes of land, labor and the port resonate for me and particularly in recent voyage experiences and digital weaving research, which I will attempt to bring together in this talk. These activities converge in new and evolving artwork, generating more questions than answers on the relationships between digital and analog materiality. Trades routes, and the movement of people and goods through ports, notions of networks, flow, circulation, has parallels and resonance with our contemporary digital systems and also, correlations with political issues, namely power and control. The Container Shipping world is fascinating to drop in on, a world so …

A Morenada Dance Costume: An Example Of The Interconnection Of The Americas, Spain And Africa, Nancy B. Rosoff

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper will explore the interconnection of the Americas, Spain and Africa as exemplified by a 19th century festival costume in the collection of the Brooklyn Museum, worn for the Moreno or Morenada, a dance developed after Spain’s conquest and colonization of the Inca Empire in the 16th century. Two other costumes were also examined, one in the collection of the American Museum of Natural History in New York City, and the other in the collection of the Museo Nacional de Etnografía y Folklore in La Paz, Bolivia. Today, the Moreno or Morenada is one of the most popular dances …

Velvet And Patronage: The Origin And Historical Background Of Ottoman And Italian Velvets, Sumiyo Okumura Dr.

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Velvets are one of the most luxurious textile materials and were frequently used in furnishings and costumes in the Middle East, Europe and Asia in the fifteenth to sixteenth centuries. Owing to many valuable studies on Ottoman and Italian velvets as well as Chinese and Byzantine velvets, we have learned the techniques and designs of velvet weaves, and how they were consumed. However, it is not well-known where and when velvets were started to be woven. The study will shed light on this question and focus on the origin, the historical background and development of velvet weaving, examining historical sources …

Non-Specific: Ubiquity, Invisible Labor And The Moving Blanket, Callen Zimmerman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

“A textile is not simply a binary system of spun, twisted or spliced fibres, but first and foremost a result of complex interactions between resources, technology and society.” Eva Anderson Strand The crash of metal on asphalt as the back of a truck lowers its lift, a grunt of exertion, a buoyant step on the platform, the shuffling of work boots in calculated motion, the crumbled sigh of fabric folding falling on itself. This observed situation is typical to the daily ins and outs of the moving blanket, a complicated dance to aid objects of importance in transit. Even if …

From Function To Fashion To A Contemporary Art Process, Journey’S Within A Fisherman’S Rib Jumper, Christine Wiltshier

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper investigates a number of journeys discovered within a fisherman’s rib jumper. The thread of each journey was unravelled whilst considering the notion, Could a process of unmaking become a form of making. This question framed a process lead studio research that centred on haptic experimentation. The vehicle chosen to investigate this question was that of the unravelling of a knitted garment. Along side a studio investigation, a number of threads were followed that connect a 1980’s fashion garment with historic coastal fishing economies in the United Kingdom. Connections were also unravelled between the machine construction of the garment …

Sumptuary Synergy: British Imperialism Through The Tartan And Slave Trades, David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Sumptuary laws have been a useful tool for various national powers in regulating subjects and to promote class differentiation and business interests. The genesis of this study was one such law, entitled the South Carolina Negro Act of 1735, stipulating that slave garments could only be made of low-quality textiles. These fabrics were reflective of slaves living in chattel environments, thus also representing a slave’s status in society. This law forbade slaves from wearing “any sort of garment or apparel whatsoever, finer, other or of greater value than Negro cloth, duffels, coarse kerseys, osnabrigs, blue linen, check linen, or coarse …

Veiled In Ignorance And Clothed In Reason: Jimmie Durham’S 2014 Exhibition Traces And Shiny Evidence, Andrea Feeser

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the 2014 London exhibition “Traces and Shiny Evidence,” Jimmie Durham showed on one floor brightly colored oil barrels, car parts, pcv pipes, and reproduction animal skeletons covered with or leaking ooze that shimmered with rainbow hues. On a floor one level up, Durham exhibited wall size drawing-prints he made by throwing stuffed animals coated with charcoal at very large pieces of paper. In the video that recorded Durham making the drawing-prints, the artist wears a workman’s vest labeled “Steiner. Maison de la Paix.” A video that is featured in the exhibition itself shows Durham in a business suit seated …

Work It: A Study In Fashion Photography Portraiture, Dominic J. Iudiciani

Williams Honors College, Honors Research Projects

Fashion is a device with which the perception of one’s appearance is manipulated. It is a device that is used across all cultures to identify, symbolize, isolate, and appropriate. It is figuratively and literally woven into the fabric of humankind as a whole. Fashion has the ability to reinforce gender or create dissonance within it through androgynous silhouettes. It can express strength and confidence or emphasize vulnerability.

Through this study, the use of specific studio lighting techniques accentuates design elements of a highly curated collection of avant-garde, 21^st century garments. Drape, texture, form, and luster are but a few …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 27:2 — Fall 2015, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Letter from the Editor
Introducing Caroline Charuk, TSA's New Membership & Communications Coordinator
Letter from the President
First Three Fellows of TSA Announced: Sheila Hicks, Jack Lenor Larsen, and Ann Pollard Rowe
R. L. Shep Ethnic Textile Book Award: 2014 Awardee Announced [Ralph Isaacs, Sazigyo, Burmese Manuscript Binding Tapes: Women Minisatures of Buddhist Art]; Call for 2015 Book Nominations
Textiles Close Up Report: International Folk Art Market, Santa Fe, July 9–12, 2015
Announcing TSA's Spring 2016 Programs: Asia in Amsterdam at the Peabody Essex Museum and Chin Weaving at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
TSA 2016 Symposium Comes to …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 27:1 — Spring 2015, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Letter from the Editor
Letter from the President
2016 Symposium: Call for Submissions [Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, and the Port, Savannah, Georgia, October 19–23, 2016]
R. L. Shep Ethnic Textile Book Award: 2014 Nominees
TSA Establishes a New Award: Fellows of the Textile Society of America
In Memoriam: Dika Eckersley
Textiles Close Up in Santa Fe / Last Chance to Register for Santa Fe TCU
Book Reviews: Bauhaus Weaving Theory: From Feminine Craft to Mode of Design and Maya Threads: A Woven History of Chiapas
Exhibitions: Sahib, Bibi, Nawab: Baluchar Silks of Bengal, 1750–1900 and Italian Textile Materials: Past, Present, and …

Ua94/6/17 Student / Alumni Personal Papers Wku Annie Reis, Wku Archives

WKU Archives Collection Inventories

Records created by and about Annie Reis during her years as a student at Western Kentucky State Normal School.

Reviving Project:A Chinese-American Culture Exchange Project, Yushan Cassie Sun

UROP Posters

Through art exhibitions in Beijing, China and Richmond, Virginia, Reviving project 01 aims to help promote/ revive a craft technique in Qinghai, China that is disappearing due to the urbanized surroundings.

American artist were invited to collaborate with people from Qinghai to make new pieces incorporating original crafted pieces.

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 26:3 — Fall 2014, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Letter from the President
Exciting Collaborations Lead to New Membership Benefits Valued at Over $110
Save the Date: Announcing Textiles Close Up 2015
Introductions & Welcome: New Members of the 2014–2016 Board of Directors
Symposium Highlights: Individuals' Reflections on the 14th Biennial Symposium
2013 Recipient: R. L. Shep Ethnic Textile Book Award
Founding Presidents Awardees at the 14th Biennial Symposium
Andrea Donnelly Honored with 12th Brandford/Elliott Award at Textile Symposium
Post-Symposium Tour Review: Kay Sekimachi Retrospective & Asian Textiles at the Mingei, Balboa Park, San Diego
TSA's Inaugural Juried Exhibition, Hosted by the Craft & Folk Art Museum in Los …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 26:2 — Spring 2014, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Special Symposium Issue
[New Directions: Examining the Past, Creating the Future, 2014 Biennial Symposium, September 10–14, 2014, Los Angeles, California]

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 26:1 — Winter 2014, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Symposium 2014 at UCLA
Director's Corner
From the President
TSA News
TSA Study Tours
TSA Member News
TSA Program Reports
Textile Community News
Conference Review
Exhibition Review
Book Reviews
Calendar-Conferences & Symposia, Calls for Artists, Exhibitions
From the Editor

Robert Hillestad, Professor And Fiber Artist, Marilyn Delong

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Department Information

Dr. Hillestad has been a member of the Costume Society of America since 1978 and has participated in many annual Symposia. Dr. Hillestad has multi-faceted abilities—he is a superb design educator as well as an active fiber and apparel artist—and he integrates the two roles of educator and artist expressively, superbly, and elegantly. Dr. Hillestad is professor emeritus at the University of Nebraska, Lincoln. In 1997, The Robert Hillestad Textiles Gallery on the Lincoln Campus of the University of Nebraska was named in his honor upon recommendation of the faculty in the Department of Textiles, Clothing and Design and the …

Dr. Who?: The Science And Culture Of Medical Wear Design, Patricia Duignan

Theses and Dissertations

The multi-million-dollar medical uniform industry has not utilized advancements in garment and textile technology that could positively impact the protection of healthcare professionals and patients. In most cases the uniforms meet basic requirements – they clothe the professional in a recognizable way. Little innovation in design, function and performance, has been applied to these garments. This is particularly evident in the case of the stereotypical white lab coat worn by many physicians, despite evidence indicating that these lab coats may carry contamination and play a role in the spread of deadly bacteria. Healthcare Associated Infections (HAIs) are among the most …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 25:3 — Fall 2013, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Textiles Close Up: 2013–14 Programs
From the President
Director's Corner
TSA News
TSA Member News
Featured Collection: Altar Frontals in the Florence Benedictine Abbey
Textile Community News
Conference Review: Weaving History Conference
Book Reviews
Calendar-Conferences & Symposia, Exhibitions

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 25:2 — Spring/Summer 2013, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

New TSA Program: Textiles Close Up
From the President
TSA News
TSA Study Tours
TSA Member News
In Memoriam: Irene Good
Textile Community News
Exhibition Review
Book Reviews
Call for Papers: TSA Symposium 2014 [New Directions: Examining the Past, Creating the Future, Los Angeles, California, September 10–14, 2014]
Calendar-Conferences & Symposia, Exhibitions, Lectures, Workshops, Tours

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 25:1 — Winter 2013, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Symposium Reports from SNPS Award Recipients
From the President
TSA Programs and Events
TSA News
TSA Member News
In Memoriam: Terry Satsuki Milhaupt
Symposium Reports from Workshop Scholarship Recipients
Featured Collection: The Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing, Rajasthan, India
Book Reviews
Conference Reviews
Textile Community News
Calendar-Conferences & Symposia, Exhibitions, Lectures, Workshops, Tours

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 24:3 — Fall 2012, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Textiles & Politics: Textile Society of America 13th Biennial Symposium, September 19–22, 2012, Washington, DC
From the President
TSA News
TSA Member News
Textile Community News
In Memoriam: Ghanian Weaver Bobbo Aghiable
Conference Reviews
Exhibition Review
Calendar-Conferences & Symposia, Exhibitions, Lectures, Workshops

The Kanga, A Cloth That Reveals- Co-Production Of Culture In Africa And The Indian Ocean Region, Phyllis A. Ressler

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Kanga is one of Africa's least understood textiles. As a simple cotton, colorful, hand and machine printed cloth it embodies dynamic historical co-production of culture throughout African and Indian Ocean trade networks. Exploring African mercantile trade history, the coproduction and exchange of iconography, the diverse use and meanings of the Kanga, suggests a valuable discursive role for this textile. Despite its longevity of more than 150 years, its significant role in creation of identities, and its contribution to communication through design and social meaning, the Kanga, receives limited attention in textile research. Though seen by many as a simple …

The Parenthetical Notation Method For Recording Yarn Structure, Jeffrey C. Splitstoser

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Until now, describing yarn structure has been more art than science, especially for complex yarns and cordage like those encountered at Cerrillos, a Paracas (ca. 900-100 B.C.E.) site in the Ica Valley of Peru, where yarns and cordage frequently involve multiple colors, sub-structures, and materials (e.g., Image 1). My early attempts at describing yarn structures using notation were essentially undecipherable to others. Likewise, narrative methods proved too wordy and no less confusing. (For instance, a narrative description of the structure of specimen 2001-L185-B1654- S001, a rope-like yarn pictured in Images 2 and 3, would be: Twelve Z-spun-singly-ply yarns Ztwisted with …

Samplers, Sewing And Star Quilts: Changing Federal Policies Impact Native American Education And Assimilation, Lynne Anderson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Illustrating the U.S. federal government's changing policies on the assimilation of Native American children is the role of needlework instruction in the schooling of Indian girls. Described and discussed are three examples of 19th and 20th century policy, with emphasis on the textiles resulting from those policies. Early 19th century policy supported mission schools for Indians. Learning to sew was a valued domestic skill in 19th century female education, culminating in the making of a needlework sampler. This focus was adopted in mission schools, illustrated by Christeen Baker's 1830 sampler stitched at the Choctaw Mission School in Mayhew, Mississippi. Shortly …