Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons^™

Rochester Ladies’ Anti-Slavery (Sewing) Society: Handcraft As A Metaphorical Tool For The Abolitionist Cause, Hinda Mandell

Journal of Feminist Scholarship

In 1851, in Rochester, New York, a group of six women banded together as the founding members of an anti-slavery group in order to support the work of the abolitionist Frederick Douglass. They called themselves the Rochester Ladies’ Anti-Slavery (Sewing) Society, although they dropped “Sewing” from the group’s name in 1855. Yet the fact that “Sewing” was included in the original name of this reformist group indicates the foundational role of craft not only as a guiding activity but also central as an activist mechanism to abolish the institution of slavery. They were the benefactors of Frederick Douglass, himself regarded …

Material Encounters: Making Memory Beyond The Mind, Ariel Wills

Masters Theses

Can acts of making carry the memories of our embeddedness within the world? This thesis explores how making things can nurture a sense of kinship that cuts across the organic and inorganic, erasing the distinction between living and dead, material and spiritual. Through handwork such as art-making, sewing, knitting, cooking, woodworking, and beyond, the burden of remembering and of archiving is shared across human and non-human bodies, cultivated through practices of making, and through the materials themselves. By recounting the stories of my family’s experience as Jewish immigrants in the United States, I aim to reveal how their domestic practices …

These Are My People: An Ethnography Of Quiltcon, Kristin Barrus

Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

This thesis presents the first ethnography of QuiltCon, the annual fan and artist convention for quiltmakers who identify with and participate in a social phenomenon called the Modern Quilt Movement (MQM) within the 21st century quilt world. QuiltCon (QC) is one product of this movement. This study considers the following questions: What kinds of people attend QC, and what types of experiences and encounters do they expect at the convention? What needs are met at QC for this subset of quiltmakers who attend and for the greater community of Modern quiltmakers? What role does QC play in cementing the identity …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 42 (2021), Joanna E. Evans, Diana Bell-Kite, Alice M. Hines, Anita B. Loscalzo, Raelana Poteat, Meta M. Van Nostran

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Joanna E. Evans

Searching for Margaret: Race, Memory, and a North Carolina Quilt by Diana Bell-Kite and RaeLana Poteat

The Threads of Redwork: Outline Embroidered Textiles by Meta M. Van Nostran

A Tompkins County, New York, Quilt Top Mystery by Anita B. Loscalzo

Glendora Hutson’s Friendship Quilt and the Origins of a Vibrant and Innovative Quilting Community by Alice M. Hines

Contributors

Index

"With The Commodity In The Hand": A Practical Investigation Of The Intersection Of Material Culture With Performance Theory, Katharine M. Given

Theses and Dissertations

This thesis examines the intersection of performance theory and material culture through the practices of garment reconstruction. In chapter 1, I examine key theorists in the fields of material culture and performance studies and articulate the connections between the two fields. In chapter 2, Using practice as research, I recount the experience of building reproduction garments from the eighteenth century using historically appropriate tools and methods, as well as the experience of wearing those garments. Finally, in Chapter 3, I walk through a possible historical examination of my encounter with these reconstructed garments, and consider the way in which feminine …

Being In The Place Of Possibility, Laura Domencic

MFA in Visual Arts Theses

This paper explores my art practice as a phenomenological search for understanding how to be in the world. It begins with a description of my practice as a way to access the place of possibility that exists between faith and doubt. I examine materiality in art making to encourage consideration of both the physical and temporal nature of experience and to find balance with the increasingly incorporeal experience of the digital world. I discuss the materials and processes of drawing, sewing, and printmaking within their historical contexts. This paper connects my practice with artists who consider the act of perception …

2020 Iggad Conference Program, Charles Joyner Institute For Gullah And African Diaspora Studies

IGGAD Conference Programs

Program of the 2020 IGGAD Conference: Without Borders: Tracing the Cultural, Archival, and Political African Diaspora.

Sewing Lives: Mary Shelley’S Frankenstein And The Global Garment Industry, Sarah Garland

CLCWeb: Comparative Literature and Culture

This paper takes Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein and uses it as an extended metaphor to investigate the points of destructive alienation and disassociation within the globalized consumption of clothing. The promise of new clothing is a set of garments that function like Victor’s dream of creation; materials are stitched together to give objects that match our closest-held ideals. And yet, because of our quick Victor-Frankenstein-like alienation from these ‘fast fashion’ objects when they no longer please us, clothing becomes, like the monster, an abjected figure for waste and shame, moving around the globe destructively, created from the bodies of the poor …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 41 (2020), Joanna E. Evans, Deanna Allred, Linda Baumgarten, Hallie Bond, Mary Bywater Cross, Gretchen Guidess, Kimberley Smith Ivey, Charlene Bongiorno Stephens, William G. Stephens, Rosa Thornley

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Joanna E. Evans

Unraveling the Mysteries of a White Quilt One Quilt, Two Cultures, and ­ree Approaches by Linda Baumgarten, Gretchen Guidess, and Kimberly Ivey

“Nothing Thou Love Be Lost or Die”: An 1846 Friendship Quilt Made at the Vermont Asylum for the Insane by Charlene Bongiorno Stephens and William G. Stephens

Seeking the Evidence: ­The Solar System Quilt and Artist Ellen Harding Baker by Mary Bywater Cross

“For Top-Cover Warmth” North Country Comforters, 1800–1970s by Hallie E. Bond

“Reach Out and Touch Someone”: Examining How Instagram Has Become a Conduit for Quiltmaking Communities by Deanna Allred and …

Universe Of Things: A Human Presentation Of Food-For-Thought., Madeline Halpern

Bachelor of Fine Arts Senior Papers

I present this statement under three loose categories: People, Objects and their Environment. I consider People as human, Objects as art objects, domestic objects, and food, and Environment as the shared space of the former groups. Food directs this statement as I present each concept and creative process as a metaphorical dish. Material exploration carried me from a direct practice of reorienting acrylic paint and questioning object functionality through personified sculptures into theoretical thesis work in which I use interpersonal relations and the idea of consumption to translate tactile, gustatory and olfactory sensations into digital film. In this meal I …

2019 Iggad Conference Program, Charles Joyner Institute For Gullah And African Diaspora Studies

IGGAD Conference Programs

Program of the 2019 IGGAD Conference: Tracing the African Diaspora: Places of Suffering, Resilience, and Reinvention.

Constraint And Control, Patricia Ayres

Theses and Dissertations

I have long considered themes of the body. Drawing on my knowledge as a fashion designer, I bring materials and hardware from the fashion industry into my artwork transforming and rendering them non-functional. My sculptures relate to stories of isolation, separation, and confinement. The following pages will analyze how the United States penal system controls, constrains and restricts the body through physical and psychological wounds. Furthermore, they will examine how the Catholic Church controls people’s minds and behavior through a ritualistic belief system.

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 40 (2019), Laurel Horton, Terry Tickhill Terrell, Katha Kievit, Linda Welters, Margaret T. Ordoñez

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Laurel Horton

Prickly Elegance: Identifying and Dating Disocactus Motifs on Early Chintz by Terry Tickhill Terrell

Edmund Potter: Nineteenth Century Calico Printer by Katha Kievit

Delaines: A Forgotten Fabric by Linda Welters and Margaret T. Ordoñez

Contributors

Index

Heritage, Tradition, And Craft In Quiltmaking (Fa 1131), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

Folklife Archives Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1131. Collection contains Interviews, photographs, and informant data sheets relating to Sandy Staebell's project with quiltmakers in Allen County and Monroe County, Kentucky and Macon County, Tennessee for the 2017-2018 Osby Lee Hire and Lillian K. Garrison Hire Memorial Lecture Series.

Clarke, Mary Louise (Washington), 1913-1999 (Mss 634), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

Manuscript Collection Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Manuscripts Collection 634. Research, correspondence and photographs relating to the scholarly study of Kentucky author Jesse Stuart by WKU English and folklore professor Mary (Washington) Clarke. Includes correspondence with Stuart, editors and other scholars in connection with her book Jesse Stuart’s Kentucky and other publications. Also includes research and correspondence relating to Clarke’s book Kentucky Quilts and Their Makers.

Cederquist, Nancy (Fa 378), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

Folklife Archives Finding Aids

FFinding aid and full-text scan of paper (Click on “Additional Files” below) for Folklife Archives Project 378. Multiple interviews with Mrs. James Hall conducted by Nancy Cederquist on 22 February 1985, 1 April 1985, and 22 April 1985. Hall, a resident of Bowling Green, discusses her passion for quilting, her preferred patterns, fabric care, and her experiences with a local quilting group.

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 39 (2018), Janice E. Frisch, Kathryn Berenson, Ronda Harrell Mcallen, Joyce Fullerton Smith, Xenia E. Cord, Marla R. Miller

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Janice E. Frisch

Political Partisanship in the Tristan Furnishings by Kathryn Berenson

The Chintz Gardens of Achsah Goodwin Wilkins, a Baltimore Quilter by Ronda Harrell McAllen

Family, Friends, Merchants, and Religion in the Early 1840s by Joyce Fullerton Smith

Ohio, the Border State: A Regional Study of Vessel, Vine, and Floral Quilt Borders by Xenia E. Cord

Invited Paper

Embedding: Putting Hadassah Chapin Ely’s Wholecloth Quilt in Context by Marla R. Miller

Contributors

Index

Precolumbian Textiles In The Ethnological Museum In Berlin, Lena Bjerregaard, Torben Huss

Zea E-Books Collection

The Ethnological Museum in Berlin, Germany, houses Europe’s largest collection of PreColumbian textiles—around 9000 well-preserved examples. Lena Bjerregaard, editor and compiler of this volume, was the conservator for these materials from 2000 to 2014, and she worked with many international researchers to analyze and publicize the collection. This book includes seven of their essays about the museum’s holdings – by Bea Hoffmann, Ann Peters, Susan Bergh, Lena Bjerregaard, Jane Feltham, Katalin Nagy, and Gary Urton. The book’s second part is a 177-page catalogue, arranged by periods and styles, of 273 selected items that represent the collection as fully as possible, …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 38 (2017), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Dana Fobes Bowne, Deborah Cooney, Dale Drake, Anita B. Loscalzo, Rachel May, Ronda Harrell Mcallen, Kathy Moore, Linda Welters

Uncoverings Journal

Foreword by Lynne Zacek Bassett

"Old Quilt Brought to America" by Dana Fobes Bowne

The Cushman Quilt Tops: A Tale of North and South by Rachel May and Linda Welters

Louisiana Acadian Cotonnade Quilts: Preserving the Weaving Heritage of a People by Dale Drake

Baltimore Album Quilts: New Research by Deborah Cooney and Ronda Harrell McAllen

Whence Garlands, Swags, Bowknots, and Baskets? Four Neoclassical Design Motifs Found in American Quilts by Anita Loscalzo

The Mystery of the Harlequin Star Quilts: Finding and Naming a Previously Unidentified Regional Design by Kathleen L. Moore

Contributors

Index

French Women In Art: Reclaiming The Body Through Creation/Les Femmes Artistes Françaises : La Réclamation Du Corps À Travers La Création, Liatris Hethcoat

Student Scholar Symposium Abstracts and Posters

The research I have conducted for my French Major Senior Thesis is a culmination of my passion for and studies of both French language and culture and the history and practice of Visual Arts. I have examined, across the history of art, the representation of women, and concluded that until the 20^th century, these representations have been tools employed by the makers of history and those at the top of the patriarchal system, used to control women’s images and thus women themselves. I survey these representations, which are largely created by men—until the 20^th century. I discuss pre-historical …

Northwest Coast Native American Art: The Relationship Between Museums, Native Americans And Artists, Karrie E. Myers

Museum Studies Theses

Museums today have many responsibilities, including protecting and understanding objects in their care. Many also have relationships with groups of people whose items or artworks are housed within their institutions. This paper explores the relationship between museums and Northwest Coast Native Americans and their artists. Participating museums include those in and out of the Northwest Coast region, such as the Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia, the Burke Museum, the Royal British Columbia Museum, the American Museum of Natural History and the Smithsonian Museum. Museum professionals who conducted research for some of these museums included Franz Boas, …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 37 (2016), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Diana Bell-Kite, Jonathan Gregory, Colleen Hall-Patton, Peggy Hazard, Sandy Staebell, Susan Stanley

Uncoverings Journal

Foreword by Lynne Zacek Bassett

Migrant Quilts of Southern Arizona by Peggy Hazard

Funeral Ribbon Quilts by Diana Bell-Kite

Why Ernest Haight Made Quilts by Jonathan Gregory

The Godey Quilt by Sandy Staebell

Protofeminist Thought in Mid-Twentieth Century Magazine Articles by Colleen Hall-Patton

Mary Catherine Lamb: Lady of Perpetual Garage Sales by Susan Stanley

Contributors

Index

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 36 (2015), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Gail Bakkom, Linda Baumgarten, Amanda Grace Sikarskie, Terry Tickhall Terrell

Uncoverings Journal

Foreword by Lynne Zacek Bassett

Vase-Pattern Wholecloth Quilts in the Eighteenth-Century Quaker Community by Linda Baumgarten

The Elizabeth Stanton Inscribed Quaker Quilt by Terry Tickhill Terrell

“Candlewicks”: White Embroidered Counterpanes in America 1790–1880 by Gail Bakkom

Erica Wilson and the Quilt Revival by Amanda Sikarskie

Contributors

Index

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 35 (2014), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Nancy C. Bavor, Joyce D. Hammond, Marin F. Hanson, Laurel Horton, Christine E. Humphrey

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Lynne Zacek Bassett

Knockers, Pickers, Movers, and Shakers: Quilt Dealers in America, 1970-2000 by Nancy C. Bavor

Tlfaifai in Tahiti: Embracing Change by Joyce D. Hammond

"One Hundred Good Wishes Quilts": Expressions of Cross-Cultural Communication by Marin F. Hanson

Weft-Loop Woven Counterpanes in the New Republic: The Rediscovery of a Textile Legacy by Laurel Horton

Quilt Documentation Projects, 1980-1989: Exploring the Roots of an National Phenomenon by Christine E. Humphrey

Contributors

Index

Gathering, Buying, And Growing Sweetgrass (Muhlenbergia Sericea): Urbanization And Social Networking In The Sweetgrass Basket-Making Industry Of Lowcountry South Carolina, Patrick T. Hurley, Brian Grabbatin, Cari Goetcheus, Angela Halfacre

Environment and Sustainability Faculty Publications

Despite the visibility of natural resource use and access for indigenous and rural peoples elsewhere, less attention is paid to the ways that development patterns interrupt nontimber forest products (NTFPs) and gathering practices by people living in urbanizing landscapes of the United States. Using a case study from Lowcountry South Carolina, we examine how urbanization has altered the political-ecological relationships that characterize gathering practices in greater Mt. Pleasant, a rapidly urbanizing area within the Charleston-North Charleston Metropolitan area. We draw on grounded visualization—an analytical method that integrates qualitative and Geographic Information Systems (GIS) data—to examine the ways that residential and …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 34 (2013), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Hallie E. Bond, Cheryl Cheek, Sharon Fulton Pinka, Merikay Waldvogel, Sarah Bliss Wright

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Lynne Zacek Bassett

Adirondack Quilts and Comforters: A Regional Study by Hallie E. Bond

The "Cooish" Rescue of the Quilt in Harry Kelly's Cottage by Cheryl Cheek

Lowcountry Chintz: The Townsend/Pope Quilt Legacy by Sharon Fulton Pinka

Printed Panels for Chintz Quilts: Their Origin and Use by Merikay Waldvogel

Alabama Cotton and Bemis Bags: Pieced into Quilt History by Sarah Bliss Wright

Contributors

Index

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 33 (2012), Lynne Zacek Bassett, Nancy C. Bavor, Gloria Craft Comstock, Mary Ellen Ducey, Kathryn "Kitty" Ledbetter, Joan Laughlin

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Lynne Zacek Bassett

Common Threads: Nine California Art Quilt Pioneers by Nancy Bavor

Hortense Horton Beck Tells Her Story: "I wanted to do something important" by Gloria Craft Comstock

The Palladian Quilt: Exploring the Possibilities by Mary Ellen Ducey and Joan Laughlin

Textiles, Print Culture and Nation Building in the 1840s by Kathryn Ledbetter

Contributors

Index

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 32 (2011), Laurel Horton, Loretta B. Chase, Jan Coor-Pender Dodge, Aimee E. Newell, Phyllis S. Herda, Margaret M. Bingham, Valerie J. Davis, Jackie (Jacqueline) Schweitzer, Carolyn K. Ducey, Deborah E. Kraak

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Laurel Horton

The Dublin Quilt: A Civil War Textile Document by Loretta B. Chase and Jan Coor-Pender

Dodge Seeking Enlightenment: A Quilt Historian's Guide to Freemasonry Aimee E. Newell Tivaevae: Women's Quilting in the Cook Islands by Phyllis Herda

The Collaborative Relationship between Professional Machine Quilters and Their Customers in the Contemporary Quilt Movement by Margaret M. Bingham

The Policy of Good Design: Quilt Designs and Designers from the WPA Milwaukee Handicrafts Project, 1935-1942 by Valerie J. Davis and Jackie Schweitzer

Reminiscences of Women's Work: Chintz Applique Album Quilts of the First Baptist Church of Philadelphia by Carolyn …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 31 (2010), Laurel Horton, Virginia Gunn, Anita B. Loscalzo, Nao Nomura, Pamela Weeks, Jonathan Gregory, Jane Przybysz

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Laurel Horton

McCall's Role in the Early Twentieth-Century Quilt Revival by Virginia Gunn

Prussian Blue: The Development of a Colorant and Its Use in Textiles Anita B. Loscalzo

The Development of Quiltmaking in Japan since the 1970s by Nao Nomura

"One Foot Square, Quilted and Bound": A Study of Potholder Quilts by Pamela Weeks

Wrapped in Meanings: Quilts for Families of Soldiers Killed in the Afghanistan and Iraq Wars by Jonathan Gregory

Bay Area Beginnings: The American Quilt Study Group and the Twentieth-Century California Fiber Art Movement by Jane Przybysz

Contributors

Index

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 30 (2009), Laurel Horton, Peggy Derrick, Linda Mcshannock, Sharon Fulton Pinka, Jane Amelon, Linda M. Pumphrey, Mary Reecy Fitzgerald, Virginia Gunn

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Laurel Horton

Two Norwegian Silk Quilts in America by Peggy Derrick and Linda McShannock

William Pinch and the Rainbow Quilt Block Company by Sharon Fulton Pinka

The Persuasive Power of a Quilt: A Study of a Battered Women's Prison Project by Jane Amelon

The Stearns & Foster Company (1846-1900): The Inside Story by Linda M. Pumphrey

The Development of Geometric Pictorial Patchwork, 1800-1950 by Mary Reecy Fitzgerald

Reflections on Quilt History: Accomplishments and Challenges by Virginia Gunn

Contributors

Index