Fashion Design Commons^™

Paracas Cavernas, Paracas Necroplis, And Ocucaje: Looking At Appropriation And Identity With Only Material Remains, Ann Peters

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Paracas Cavernas, Paracas Necropolis, and Ocucaje are groups of burials made some 2000 years ago on the south coast of Peru. The Peruvian coast is a desert, and textiles, basketry, and other artifacts made from plant fiber and animal fiber and other organic materials are preserved there in ancient tombs. The Andes is known for funerary traditions that emphasize the dressing of the dead, with documented preservation of mummified ancestors or funerary bundles, and in some cases their participation as ancestors in kin group and community ritual.

. . .

It is clear that there are continuing relations of contact, …

Dressing The Part: Indigenous Costume As Political And Cultural Discourse In Peru, Katharine E. Seibold

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In Latin America, indigenous clothing has often been equated with indigenous cultural identity. When we speak of indigenous fashion as being a marker of cultural identity, we must also examine the more fluid roles of the indigenous individual and community within the state. How is individual, community, and state identity represented? What form does the discourse between the individual, the community, and the state take? Many anthropologists have written of the flexible and strategic use of ethnicity, and costume as a primary tool in the manipulation of ethnic identity. Indigenous, handwoven dress legitimates community as well as ethnic group membership …

Ancient Near Eastern Fibers And The Reshaping Of European Clothing, Elizabeth J. W. Barber

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In April of 1994, an amazing story hit the news-stands. A group of naturally mummified corpses dated to 2000 BC and later had been found in Chinese Turkestan. Not only were their Caucasian features and blondish hair well preserved by the dry heat of the xinjiang desert, but also their clothes--brightly colored plaids and twills among them (Hadingham 1994). We know from later linguistic records that a group of Indo-European speakers we call the Tocharians had made their way to Xinjiang and the Tarim Basin in early times. We also know that the Indo-Europeans began to spread across Eurasia from …

Frontmatter - Contact, Crossover, Continuity - 1994

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Frontmatter: cover, title page, and copyright page.

Technology And Change: The Incorporation Of Synthetic Dye Techniques In Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria, Judith Byfield

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the oriki (appellations) of an 18th-century oba (king) in Okuku, references to cloth and indigo were included in the verses that attested to the oba's wealth and greatness,

Abioye, my father, Olugbola, one who takes the image and all its children to dance

The beauty of cloth dyed in indigo does not fade

Adewale, the indigo is what gives the cloth its worth

The references suggestively point to the aesthetic as well as commercial value of indigo in Yoruba society. Scholars and travelers have long noted the importance of indigo dyed cloth in Yoruba society, and Yoruba women, the …

Akwete-Igbo Weavers As Entrepreneurs And Innovators At The Turn Of The Century, Lisa Aronson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In his discourse on trade commodities, Igor Kopytoff argues that commodities assume what he calls a "cultural biography" through which one sees "the social system and the collective understanding on which it rests" (Kopytoff, 1986:89). What Kopytoff means by this is that commodities take on a life of their own based on the social and economic factors that have come to affect them. This paper will address the "cultural biography" of cloth in Southeastern Nigeria from its origins through trade to its various levels of assimilation both in use and production.

The biography discussed in this paper reaches an important …

The Conversion Of Chinese Court Robes Into Japanese Festival Hangings, Gloria Granz Gonick

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Decorated silken robes historically worn in China to garb the emperor and his family were disassembled and resewn in Japan into hangings for Kyoto's Gion Festival during the 16th to 18th centuries. The twenty robes, which were converted into coverings for festival carts called yama and hoko, include silk tapestry weaves (kesi), brocades, and embroidered examples. Eleven date from the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) and nine from the early to mid Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). This distribution contrasts with other world collections of Chinese imperial robes, in which Qing Dynasty examples are far more numerous. In addition to the …

Raphael’S Acts Of The Apostles Tapestries: The Birth Of The Tapestry Reproduction System, Marjorie Durko Puryear

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

As a younger fiber artist at the beginning of my teaching career, I rarely found European tapestries of the 16th through 18th centuries to be more than copies of paintings in a woven mask. The weaver's hand and spirit were only apparent in finite details which were resplendent with meticulous hatching, shading, and delicate slit work, unchanged from the Medieval past. But it was against my art school training to separate art concept from process. I wasn't ready to accept that the weavers were not the artists, and that tapestry was in fact an industry.

More recently, my point of …

Ottoman Silks And Their Legacy, Diane Mott

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During the late Middle Ages and the early Renaissance, luxury silks of Asia that had for centuries trickled into Europe began to enter in large numbers, fueling an appetite for the rich and exotic that was to have a lasting effect on Western textile design. In turn, expanded trade with the Levant carried Western designs and advances in weaving eastward. The Ottoman Empire, standing at the thresholds of Europe and Asia, was perfectly poised to transmit these East-West currents. Weavers in manufactories in the successive Ottoman capitals of Bursa and Istanbul, the western outposts of the Asiatic silk routes, absorbed …

Charmingly Quaint And Still Modern: The Paradox Of Colonial Revival Needlework In America, 1875–1940, Beverly Gordon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Despite the self-conscious modernism of the early 20th century, American needlework was filled with images of flower baskets, cozy cottages, spinning wheels, and women in hoopskirts. It was dominated by seemingly old-fashioned and "quaint" techniques, such as cross stitch, patchwork, crewel, and rug hooking. In an era with teeming cities, radio, and cars pouring off the assembly line, needlework came to stand for a romanticized, seemingly simpler and nobler American past. And in an era when women were winning the vote and re-entering the professional work force, needleworkers, in turn, became identified with the domestic homebody of the past. In …

Ancient Andean Headgear: Medium And Measure Of Cultural Identity, Niki R. Clark, Amy Oakland Rodman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

From the earliest recorded periods of southern Andean history, distinctive clothing styles have served to identity specific socio-cultural groups and provide clues about cultural origins. Unique environmental conditions, especially present along the arid Pacific coast of South America, have allowed the preservation of a vast archive of usually perishable material. From the far south coast of Peru to the northern desert regions of Chile, textiles, and especially headgear forms were worn to distinguish between the diverse populations who established permanent settlements along the narrow river valleys linking highland regions and the coast.

The south central Andes region has always known …

(Re-)Fashioning Identity: Late Twentieth-Century Transformations In Dress And Society In Boliva, Elayne Zorn

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The members of most of Bolivia's large indigenous ethnic groups, such as the nearly 22,000 people of ayllu Sakaka of northern Potosi, continue to wear a distinctive daily dress. Such dress nationally and internationally is emblematic of the Sakaka's separate, and to many inferior, identity as Indians. To the wearers also, or perhaps fundamentally, such dress marks a division between clothed indigenous humans (runa) and naked foreign outsiders (q'ara). This interpretation coincides with hegemonic non-Indian evaluations of Indian separateness, but reverses the hierarchy.

Yet most members of these large indigenous ethnic groups, whom I refer to …

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings Of The Fourth Biennial Symposium Of The Textile Society Of America (1994) [Entire]

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Preface 7

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Fiber and Garment

Featured Paper: Ancient Near Eastern Fibers and the Reshaping of European Clothing Elizabeth J. W. Barber 9

Wreath and Cap to Veil and Apron: American Modification of a Slavic Ritual Patricia Williams 19

Panel: Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa

Akwete-Igbo Weavers as Entrepreneurs and Innovators at the Turn of the Century Lisa Aronson 31

What’s in a Name: The Domestication of Factory Produced Wax Textiles in Cote d’Ivoire Kathleen E. Bickford 39

Technology and Change: The Incorporation of Synthetic Dye Techniques in Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria Judith Byfield 45

The …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 5:14 – Fall 1993, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Harper’s Ferry Labs Tour
Letter from the Editor
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the President
People
Mill to Sell 19-century Loom
Change of Address
FIT FYI
Textile Collection at Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
ETN Expands Membership
Announcements
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Juried Art Exhibit
Lectures, Classes & Workshops
Call for Papers
Fellowships, Grants, Internships
Publications
New Publications Announced
Exhibitions
Blanche Payne Costume Collection Reunited
Travel
Membership Information

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 5:13 – Spring/Summer 1993, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Contact, Crossover, Continuity
Letter from the Editor
Change of Address
Call for Bibliographies
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the President
Museum Receives Major Grant
Textile Gallery Opens in Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
Bhutanese Textiles Sought
Newsletter Deadlines Explained
TSA Regional Activities – Report from the Southern Region
Announcements
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Lectures, Classes & Workshops
Coming Events
New Video Available
Publications
Exhibitions
Membership Information

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 5:12 – Winter 1993, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Tours & Travel
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the President
Announcements
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Lectures, Classes & Workshops
Calls for proposals
Thurman Honored
States of the art library opens
Exhibitions
Spring Textile Shows in NYC
Publications
Membership Information

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 4:11 – Fall 1992, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Letter from the President
“Research in Progress”
Area Activities
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the Past President
Symposium Luncheon Meetings
The Practicing Artist
European Textiles
Aspects of Social Change
Announcements
Calls for Papers & Proposals
Lectures, Classes, and Workshops
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Textiles at Biltmore House
Fellowships & Prizes
Peggy Stoltz Gilfoy Memorial
Publications
Exhibitions
TSA Calendar

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 4:2 – Spring/Summer 1992, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
Symposium Registration
TSA Board
1992 TSA Nominations
Update on the Gobelins
Classes, Conferences, Lectures, Symposia
Events
Publications
Exhibitions
TSA Calendar

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 4:9 – April 1992, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Fall ’92 Symposium: A Diverse and Promising Program
Notices
Publications
Exhibits

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 3:8 – October 1991, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
Plans Progressing for an Exciting Conference in Seattle ‘92
Notices
Publications
Exhibits

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 3:6 – June 1991, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
Classes, Conferences, Lectures, Symposia
Competition
Publication Venue
Publications
Exhibitions
Pertinent Names and Addresses
Private Grants for Field Research on Textiles and Costumes

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 3:6 – February 1991, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
Notices
Books
Classes, Conferences, Lectures, Symposia
Exhibitions
Research in Progress
Third Biennial Symposium: “Textiles in Daily Life”

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:3 – November 1990, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
Notices
Books
Classes, Conferences, Lectures, Symposia
Exhibitions
Pertinent Names and Addresses

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:2 – June 1990, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
Late News Flash
The Symposium: Textiles in Trade
Pertinent Names and Addresses
What’s New
Calls for Manuscripts and Papers
Fellowships
Employment Opportunities
Exhibitions
The Network: An International Directory of Textile Scholars

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 2:3 – February 1990, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
A Call for Papers
What’s New
Exhibition
Fellowships
Lectures, Symposia, Seminars, Workshops
Study Tours
The Network: An International Directory of Textile Scholars

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 1:2 – June 1989, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
A Call for Papers
In Memorium, Joseph V. Columbus (1912-1989)
What’s New
Study Tours
Symposium, Seminars, Workshops
Veronika Gervers Research Fellowship in Costume and Textile History
The Log Museum
Membership in the Textile Society of America
C.I.E.T.A.
Joseph V. Columbus Tapestry Symposium

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 1:1 — January 1989, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
In Memoriam, Peggy Stolz Gilfoy (1936–1988)
What's New [by state and province]
Obituary [Florence Lewis May]
CIETA [invitation to Centre International d'Etude des Textiles Anciens 13th General Assembly]
Positions Announcements
1988 Symposium Papers
TSA Board Meeting
Membership in the Textile Society of America
Textile Society of America 1990 Conference
About the Newsletter
Membership and Mailing Lists
TSA Textiles in Trade: A Symposium, September 14–16, 1990, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC [announcement of second biennial symposium]