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The Conversion Of Chinese Court Robes Into Japanese Festival Hangings, Gloria Granz Gonick

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Decorated silken robes historically worn in China to garb the emperor and his family were disassembled and resewn in Japan into hangings for Kyoto's Gion Festival during the 16th to 18th centuries. The twenty robes, which were converted into coverings for festival carts called yama and hoko, include silk tapestry weaves (kesi), brocades, and embroidered examples. Eleven date from the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) and nine from the early to mid Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). This distribution contrasts with other world collections of Chinese imperial robes, in which Qing Dynasty examples are far more numerous. In addition to the …

Raphael’S Acts Of The Apostles Tapestries: The Birth Of The Tapestry Reproduction System, Marjorie Durko Puryear

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

As a younger fiber artist at the beginning of my teaching career, I rarely found European tapestries of the 16th through 18th centuries to be more than copies of paintings in a woven mask. The weaver's hand and spirit were only apparent in finite details which were resplendent with meticulous hatching, shading, and delicate slit work, unchanged from the Medieval past. But it was against my art school training to separate art concept from process. I wasn't ready to accept that the weavers were not the artists, and that tapestry was in fact an industry.

More recently, my point of …

Ottoman Silks And Their Legacy, Diane Mott

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During the late Middle Ages and the early Renaissance, luxury silks of Asia that had for centuries trickled into Europe began to enter in large numbers, fueling an appetite for the rich and exotic that was to have a lasting effect on Western textile design. In turn, expanded trade with the Levant carried Western designs and advances in weaving eastward. The Ottoman Empire, standing at the thresholds of Europe and Asia, was perfectly poised to transmit these East-West currents. Weavers in manufactories in the successive Ottoman capitals of Bursa and Istanbul, the western outposts of the Asiatic silk routes, absorbed …

Charmingly Quaint And Still Modern: The Paradox Of Colonial Revival Needlework In America, 1875–1940, Beverly Gordon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Despite the self-conscious modernism of the early 20th century, American needlework was filled with images of flower baskets, cozy cottages, spinning wheels, and women in hoopskirts. It was dominated by seemingly old-fashioned and "quaint" techniques, such as cross stitch, patchwork, crewel, and rug hooking. In an era with teeming cities, radio, and cars pouring off the assembly line, needlework came to stand for a romanticized, seemingly simpler and nobler American past. And in an era when women were winning the vote and re-entering the professional work force, needleworkers, in turn, became identified with the domestic homebody of the past. In …

Ancient Andean Headgear: Medium And Measure Of Cultural Identity, Niki R. Clark, Amy Oakland Rodman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

From the earliest recorded periods of southern Andean history, distinctive clothing styles have served to identity specific socio-cultural groups and provide clues about cultural origins. Unique environmental conditions, especially present along the arid Pacific coast of South America, have allowed the preservation of a vast archive of usually perishable material. From the far south coast of Peru to the northern desert regions of Chile, textiles, and especially headgear forms were worn to distinguish between the diverse populations who established permanent settlements along the narrow river valleys linking highland regions and the coast.

The south central Andes region has always known …

(Re-)Fashioning Identity: Late Twentieth-Century Transformations In Dress And Society In Boliva, Elayne Zorn

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The members of most of Bolivia's large indigenous ethnic groups, such as the nearly 22,000 people of ayllu Sakaka of northern Potosi, continue to wear a distinctive daily dress. Such dress nationally and internationally is emblematic of the Sakaka's separate, and to many inferior, identity as Indians. To the wearers also, or perhaps fundamentally, such dress marks a division between clothed indigenous humans (runa) and naked foreign outsiders (q'ara). This interpretation coincides with hegemonic non-Indian evaluations of Indian separateness, but reverses the hierarchy.

Yet most members of these large indigenous ethnic groups, whom I refer to …

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings Of The Fourth Biennial Symposium Of The Textile Society Of America (1994) [Entire]

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Preface 7

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Fiber and Garment

Featured Paper: Ancient Near Eastern Fibers and the Reshaping of European Clothing Elizabeth J. W. Barber 9

Wreath and Cap to Veil and Apron: American Modification of a Slavic Ritual Patricia Williams 19

Panel: Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa

Akwete-Igbo Weavers as Entrepreneurs and Innovators at the Turn of the Century Lisa Aronson 31

What’s in a Name: The Domestication of Factory Produced Wax Textiles in Cote d’Ivoire Kathleen E. Bickford 39

Technology and Change: The Incorporation of Synthetic Dye Techniques in Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria Judith Byfield 45

The …

Blanket Statements, Issue 34, Fall 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 34, Fall 1993

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 5:14 – Fall 1993, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Harper’s Ferry Labs Tour
Letter from the Editor
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the President
People
Mill to Sell 19-century Loom
Change of Address
FIT FYI
Textile Collection at Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
ETN Expands Membership
Announcements
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Juried Art Exhibit
Lectures, Classes & Workshops
Call for Papers
Fellowships, Grants, Internships
Publications
New Publications Announced
Exhibitions
Blanche Payne Costume Collection Reunited
Travel
Membership Information

Blanket Statements, Issue 33, Summer 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 33, Summer 1993

Tappeti Safavidi: L'Evoluzione Storica E Culturale Dell'arte Tessile Iraniana Dal Xvi Al Xviii Secolo, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

In Iran l'epoca safavide coincide con il periodo aureo dell'arte tessile: proprio nel XVI secolo infatti si completò l'evoluzione stilistica del tappeto persiano classico e la tessitura di sete e velluti giunse ai massimi livelli per tecnica e per decorazioni.

Nelle fasi successive della storia persiana nei tessuti e nei tappeti continuarono a vivere le straordinarie innovazioni dell'epoca safavide, tuttora insuperate.Nella storia l'Iran è stato uno dei più importanti paesi produttori di tessili.

In epoca medievale le sontuose sete ed i tappeti erano ricercati dalle case regnanti e dalla nobiltà europea per la qualità eccellente e per la bellezza fuori …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 5:13 – Spring/Summer 1993, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Contact, Crossover, Continuity
Letter from the Editor
Change of Address
Call for Bibliographies
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the President
Museum Receives Major Grant
Textile Gallery Opens in Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
Bhutanese Textiles Sought
Newsletter Deadlines Explained
TSA Regional Activities – Report from the Southern Region
Announcements
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Lectures, Classes & Workshops
Coming Events
New Video Available
Publications
Exhibitions
Membership Information

Blanket Statements, Issue 32, Spring 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 32, Spring 1993

Falcons And Flowers: Safavid Persian Textile Arts, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

The Safavid period in Iran was a golden age for textile arts. It was in the 16th century that the Classical Persian carpet evolved to its fully developed form, and it was then that woven silks and velvets reached the highest technical and aesthetic standards of all time. In subsequent periods of Persian history, textiles and carpets reflect the extraordinary achievements of the Safavid era which have never been surpassed.

Under the reign of Shah Abbas I, who reigned from 1588 to 1629, Iran established important economic ties not only with the rapidly emerging European powers, but with the Mughal …

What Is An Oriental Carpet?, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Have you ever just stared at an Oriental carpet? Have you ever wondered what makes it so attractive, fascinating, or puzzling? Have you admired its simplicity or its intricacy? Have you ever wondered where it came from? Or, how it was made?

What is an Oriental Carpet? attempts to answer some of these questions. Conceived in response to visitors' requests for more basic information about textiles, this educational approach encourages the viewer to participate in an exploration of Oriental carpets.

Although the terms carpet and rug are often interchanged, here a carpet is defined as a fairly large pile-weaving intended …

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 5:12 – Winter 1993, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Tours & Travel
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the President
Announcements
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Lectures, Classes & Workshops
Calls for proposals
Thurman Honored
States of the art library opens
Exhibitions
Spring Textile Shows in NYC
Publications
Membership Information

Blanket Statements, Issue 35, Winter 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 35, Winter 1993

Piety And Power In Early Sasanian Art, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Sasanian art has long been considered a royal art: An art in service of royalty. Indeed, traditions of kingship in Iran became a paradigm for kingship throughout the world (though not always recognized as such). But the significance and strength of Iranian kingship no doubt led, in part, to scholarly paradigms in which nearly all in historical Iran has been cast in the shadow of kingship. But there are other ways to look at kingship in Iran. This paper explores the representation of royal images in early Sasanian art from a religious perspective, a view perhaps eclipsed by the ever-present …

Knots And Bolts: Design And Technology In The Caucasus, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

In the largest sense, Oriental rugs represent both the social history and manufacturing traditions of their particular cultures and are related to the human needs, economies, and ecological constraints of those societies. Each textile or fragment represents a complex set of human interactions between user and viewer, implying a social response, and between user and maker, sometimes resulting from economic transactions among buyer and seller, lender, merchant, and trader. Suppliers of raw materials and market superintendents or commissioners for fair trade and quality control may also have been involved. The quality and appearance of any given textile results from the …

Blanket Statements, Issue 30, Fall 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 30, Fall 1992

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 4:11 – Fall 1992, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Letter from the President
“Research in Progress”
Area Activities
TSA Board of Directors
Letter from the Past President
Symposium Luncheon Meetings
The Practicing Artist
European Textiles
Aspects of Social Change
Announcements
Calls for Papers & Proposals
Lectures, Classes, and Workshops
Conferences, Meetings, Symposia
Textiles at Biltmore House
Fellowships & Prizes
Peggy Stoltz Gilfoy Memorial
Publications
Exhibitions
TSA Calendar

Blanket Statements, Issue 29, Summer 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 29, Summer 1992

Blanket Statements, Issue 28, Spring 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 28, Spring 1992

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 4:2 – Spring/Summer 1992, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

From the President
Symposium Registration
TSA Board
1992 TSA Nominations
Update on the Gobelins
Classes, Conferences, Lectures, Symposia
Events
Publications
Exhibitions
TSA Calendar

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 4:9 – April 1992, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America: Newsletters

Fall ’92 Symposium: A Diverse and Promising Program
Notices
Publications
Exhibits

Blanket Statements, Issue 31, Winter 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 31, Winter 1992

Bukhara: Traditional Weavings From Pre-Soviet Central Asia, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

In southern regions of what was the Soviet Union lie five independent republics, the populations of which are predominantly Turkic: Kazakhstan, Kirghizia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan. During the course of the past fifty years, each of these areas has seen increasing industrialization as part of the centralized planning of the Soviet economy. Today, throughout the region. privatization of industry is rapidly occuring. Accompanying these new developments, and as part of the political and economic changes of the last few years, there has been an increasing awareness of ethnic identity and cultural inheritance. This may be expressed through literary and intellectual …

A Kurdish Reed Screen, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

A unique ethnographic monument recently donated to The Textile Museum merits special attention not only for its size (twenty-five feet long and four feet high), but for its important place in the history, use, construction, and decoration of functional textiles.

Designed to enclose space in a nomadic environment. the reed screen may be considered an architectural textile destined for use within the community in which it was made. This distinguishes it from commercial products manufactured for the market, and, indeed, from most other utilitarian textiles, although it shares with carpets and kilims an obvious intent to beautify the environment for …

Elements Of Plane Symmetry In Oriental Carpets, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Historically, in the Islamic world from Spain to Indonesia, two-dimensional repeat patterns have served as primary means for organizing color and space. The ornamentation of architecture may involve the modifications of a two-dimensional pattern in its application to a three-dimensional surface. All of the uses of pattern, appearing as well on ceramics and metalwork, in book illumination, and textiles, rely upon the repetition of complex or simple designs to form overall repeat patterns of apparent complexity and intricacy. Yet within all the visual diversity and within the variability of regional traditions throughout the Islamic world, there is a common visual …

Blanket Statements, Issue 26, Fall 1991

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 26, Fall 1991