Art and Design Commons^™

The Petticoat: Details Of A Forgotten Garment In Mexico City (1900–1910), Nallely Rangel Vázquez

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During Porfirian government, Mexican society experienced a flourishing of the textile industry driven by state policies that encouraged both the rise of the national industry and foreign investment. This process was perceived from the daily life of the capital, through the windows of silk shops, shoe shops, warehouses and, above all, the imposing department store El Palacio de Hierro. One of the garments that was designed to fit at the waist and cover the legs was the petticoat, which was assumed to be a piece of female underwear. In this article, I am interested in unravelling details findings about this …

Woven Symphony: Exploring The Parallels Between Weaving And Music, Qianwen Yu

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Weaving and music are art forms often perceived as unrelated but actually share deep connections and fascinating similarities. In this presentation, I will first briefly introduce the impact of the 19th-century Jacquard loom on the invention of the Player Piano, a musical technology that evolved into the modern "MIDI" computer audio notation system. Second, I will explore the similarities found in both weaving and musical composition by presenting some of my own media installation art works. These works translate musical scores into woven textures, and vice versa, creating symphonies and revealing new sensory ways to appreciate textiles and music. I …

La Representación De Los Seres Voladores En Tejidos Ceremoniales Tiwanaku, Elisa Cont

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Este estudio iconográfico e iconológico se propone analizar la representación de una particular tipología de seres antropo-zoomorfos en la cultura Tiwanaku mediante una investigación transdisciplinaria, que incluye estudios de arqueología, antropología, semiótica y estética. Algunos seres antropo-zoomorfos con atributos de aves, felinos, cérvidos y llamas estarían representados flotando en sentido horizontal, y simbolizarían el chamán en su estado de trance, realizando su viaje mágico, a través del consumo de unas substancias psicoactivas. Los artistas tiwanakotas por medio de las imágenes de “seres voladores” reflejarían unos principios acerca de su cosmovisión, y revelarían el rol fundamental que algunas experiencias mágicos-religiosas ejercían …

Las Tapicerías Del Sitio Topater En El Contexto De Los Textiles Del Formativo Medio (500 A.C.-100 D.C.) En Atacama, Soledad Hoces De La Guardia Chellew, Ana María T. Rojas Zepeda

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

El presente trabajo expone un conjunto excepcional de piezas en técnica de tapicería encontrados en el cementerio de Topater, cercano al rio Loa, ubicado en el desierto de Atacama, Norte de Chile. Estos tejidos, objeto de investigaciones previas (Agüero 2000; Cases 2000; Sinclaire 2001), en conjunto con los anillados y los textiles con afelpados de mecha, constituyen la base de caracterización técnica del sitio. Las nuevas condiciones de almacenaje y reciente procesamiento de este material han permitido abarcar la totalidad de los textiles en tapicería, profundizando un estudio técnico estructural y de sistemas de representación asociados para desde allí replantear …

Proceso De Retejido, Por Medio De Cordeles De Papel Japonés, En Una Bolsa Procedente De La Cueva De La Candelaria, Torreón, Coahuila, México, Miriam Elizabeth Castro Rodríguez, Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela, Orlando Martínez Zapata

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

La Cueva de la Candelaria, es una cueva mortuoria fechada entre el 1100 y 1300 d.C. (Aveleyra 2010) dónde se depositaron los cuerpos de grupos de cazadores recolectores junto con los bienes que les habían pertenecido en vida. Gracias a sus condiciones de cueva seca se lograron conservar y rescatar una gran variedad de artefactos elaborados con fibras semiduras de agavaceas como son los objetos de cordelería (redes, bolsas, cuerdas). Debido al deterioro natural de las fibras y los generados durante el contexto de enterramiento como son los lixiviados de los cuerpos, desarrollo de microorganismos, acciones de insectos y animales …

Textiles Y Plumas. Documentación Y Conservación De La Colección Etnográfica Del Museo De Farmacobotánica Juan A. Domínguez, Facultad De Farmacia Y Bioquímica De La Universidad De Buenos Aires (Argentina), Silvana Di Lorenzo, Lucila Pesoa, Cecilia Pérez De Micou, María Del Carmen Toribio

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

El museo de Fármacobotánica “Juan A. Domínguez” preserva una interesante colección etnográfica de textiles y plumaria procedente de varias regiones de Argentina, Bolivia y Paraguay. En este trabajo presentamos el estado de avance de la investigación, documentación y conservación preventiva en referencia al patrimonio recolectado en la región del Gran Chaco. Mediante este proyecto independiente de investigación y conservación nuestro objetivo es dar a conocer esta colección inédita para preservarla, ponerla en valor y propender a su visualización.

The “Juan A. Domínguez” Pharmacobotanical Museum preserves an interesting ethnographic collection of textiles and feathers form various regions of Argentina, Bolivia and …

Kuna Shirts From Panama In Brussels’ Art And History Museum, Anne-Françoise Martin

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

The Kuna live in the San Blas Archipelago off the coast of Panama. Kuna women make cotton shirts (mola/molakana) using the reverse appliqué technique. They start by superimposing several thin layers of very colourful fabric. A subtle positioning of cuts brings out the colours of the lower layers and creates patterns. Kuna women are inspired by plants and animals in the nature that surrounds them when creating these patterns. They also draw on a repertoire of patterns from everyday objects. These shirts, sewn with pride and a great deal of humour, can tell us a lot about Kuna society. They …

El Traje Ceremonial De Los Samilantes, Olga Liliana Sulca, Enrique Oscar Cifre Kargachin

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

En la Puna salto jujeña (extremo noroeste de Argentina), se celebran todos los años una serie de festividades que vinculan la tradición católica con una serie de rituales, cuyos orígenes tienen profundas raíces prehispánicas. En estas celebraciones se entrelazan música, atuendos, danzas y ceremonias. Una de esas expresiones sincréticas es la denominada Danza del Suri. Sus participantes, también llamados samilantes o “plumudos” se destacan por el uso de un particular atavío, cuya finalidad tiene como objetivo encarnar el aspecto y la conducta del suri o ñandú cordillerano (ave no voladora) que se extiende por el área cordillerana desde el altiplano …

El Horizonte Medio En Huacas De Moche: Naturaleza De La Ocupación Post-Mochica En Huaca Del Sol (C. 800-1000 D.C.), Lizbeth Pariona, Carlos Rengifo, Moisés Tufinio

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Este artículo presenta los resultados del análisis estilístico y de técnicas de manufactura de un grupo de textiles recuperados en contextos funerarios correspondientes a la segunda mitad del Horizonte Medio (800-1000 d.C.) excavados en el edificio conocido como Huaca del Sol, en el sitio Huacas de Moche de la costa peruana. Estos materiales orgánicos presentan características que permiten la identificación de rasgos del estilo Mochica local junto con estilos foráneos, lo que ayuda a una mejor comprensión de las interacciones culturales en el sitio durante este singular periodo. Los resultados de este estudio brindan, además, nuevos detalles sobre las características …

Portada E Información Editorial / Frontmatter And Editorial Information

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Covers - Cubiertas; Contents - Contenido; Programme – Programa; Asociaciones Sponsors; Words from Director – Palabras de la directora ▪ Marina Pugliese; Preface – Prólogo ▪ Carolina Orsini, Federica Villa ; Photos from the workshop - Fotos del taller; Links to recorded sessions online @ Youtube - Enlaces a sesiones grabadas en línea @ Youtube

Textiles De La Cultura Nasca Del Proyecto Arqueológico Nasca-Palpa Al Sur Del Perú, Daniela Biermann

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Los textiles excavados por el proyecto arqueológico Nasca-Palpa en el Departamento de Ica provienen de dos asentamientos y un sitio sagrado cerca de la ciudad moderna de Palpa. En base a los datos arqueológicos se clasifican los textiles en varios rasgos de la cultura Nasca (200 aC – 650 d.C.): Los asentamientos fueron habitados permanentemente durante un largo período y, además, periódicamente, fueron utilizados como cementerios. Los hallazgos textiles son de tumbas de diferentes periodos, formas y sectores de los asentamientos. Paralelamente se trata por primera vez de textiles de capas compactas de áreas habitadas y además de todas las …

Knot Anomalies On Inka Khipus: Revising Locke’S Knot Typology, Sabine Hyland

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

In 2007, in the IV Actas de las Jornadas Internacionales sobre Textiles Precolombinos, Kylie Quave noted the existence of various structural anomalies in khipus presumed to date to the Late Horizon. These anomalies included the use of non-cotton vegetal fibres, the inclusion of single red strings, subsidiary cords that are plied through rather than half hitched, and the placement of long knots and figure-8 knots “in a way that precludes a numerical reading”. Since Quave’s article, there has been little examination of such anomalies, nor have scholars known whether such anomalies were to be found in khipus that had …

Estudio De Un Grupo De Chuspas De La Huaca Malena, Lourdes Chocano Mena

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

El presente trabajo es la investigación de un grupo de chuspas provenientes del cementerio de la Huaca Malena. El objetivo fue analizar técnicamente aspectos de su elaboración e iconografía descubriendo así las características comunes que compartían, como los rasgos diferentes entre ellas. A simple vista este conjunto de chuspas puede parecer muy heterogéneo, sin embargo, existen algunos elementos que se comparten transversalmente, por ejemplo: la fibra, los colores y el ligamento textil, sin embargo, hay otros elementos diferentes creando sub tipos dentro del conjunto, por ejemplo: la forma, las dimensiones, la rotación de las urdimbres y los acabados. El proceso …

Festones En Pequeñas Vestimentas De Enterratorios De Altura (Capacocha), Verónica Cereceda Bianchi

IX Jornadas Internacionales de Textiles Precolombinos y Amerindianos / 9th International Conference on PreColumbian and Amerindian Textiles, Museo delle Culture, Milan, 2022

Los festones son bordados exteriores que se incorporan en prendas ya terminadas en un telar. En el presente texto intentamos un análisis de este tipo de terminaciones que circundaba las vestimentas de pequeñas estatuitas en esos importantes rituales de sacrificios infantiles que son las capacocha. Por la cantidad de reglas que implicaba su elaboración, tanto en lo que se refiere a su ubicación como en la sintaxis de su organización cromática, es posible considerarlos como verdaderos códigos que cumplían sus mensajes de comunicación y sus posibles poderes rituales, a partir de angostas listas de diferentes colores, sin necesidad de utilizar …

Melissa Brown Collection Of "A Loud Absence" Project Materials, Zach S. Henderson Library, Special Collections

Finding Aids

This collection consists of photographs and digital files created by artist Melissa Brown as part of her project, titled "A Loud Absence." According to the artist, the project sought to discover what happens to a space after great injustice has been committed in it. The project examines whether a community's choice of what to do with such an area reflects healing or reveals that they have not moved forward from their past.

The Power Of Polish: Exploring The Impact Of Nail Adornments On Perceptions Of Attraction, Sara Demichele

Honors Theses

Understanding the significance of nail adornments in shaping perceptions of attractiveness and mate value provides insights into human behavior and preferences. In the current investigation, participants rated human nail length and color on physical attractiveness and partner desirability measures. Results revealed significant effects of nail length and color across different demographic groups. Medium-length nails consistently received higher ratings for physical attractiveness, cuteness, and partner desirability compared to short and long nails. White-colored nails were generally rated most attractive, while blue and black nails received the lowest ratings. Additionally, participants reported a moderate association between having manicured nails and feelings of …

Nate Mohoney, Senior Art Portfolio, Nate S. Mohoney

Senior Art Portfolios

Portfolio of Nate Mohoney, Senior art exhibition 2024

Flower Layering Exploration With Influence From The Impressionist Movement, Kayla M. Bremmer

Senior Art Portfolios

Art Education Senior Capstone Exhibition work and unit plan by Kayla Bremmer during the Fall 2024 semester.

Body. Freedom. Choice: Creating Artwork In Post-Roe America, Erin Sedra

Graduate Theses/Dissertations

I knew from a young age that I never wanted children. Whenever I expressed my disinterest in motherhood, I was often met with bewilderment, disapproval, and hostility. The church I was raised in taught me that my value and worth as a woman directly correlated with the power of my birthing hips. This fundamentalist upbringing has significantly shaped my relationship with my femininity, my body, and my artwork. When I feel powerless, turning to my art gives me a sense of control and self-expression. This body of work began as a reaction to the overturning of Roe v. Wade and …

Invites Only: Exploring Social Dynamics And Self-Image Through Oil Paint, Mara Cressey

Graduate Theses/Dissertations

My thesis work depicts the events of a fictional party. Using oil paint, I create multi-figure works that feature recurring characters, various narratives, complex relationships, and emotions associated with this fictitious evening. Within this painted realm, I portray a more confident, powerful version of myself; an alter ego, who exists alongside these various characters. Drawing inspiration from compositional strategies from Renaissance art history and Christian altarpieces, I paint on large-scale, shaped canvas and paper to suggest doors, windows, and other domestic, interior spaces. Additionally, these shapes allow me to juxtapose suggestions of prominence and divinity with satire, irreverence, and profanity. …

Outside Inside: Poems, Emma Jane Sullivan

Graduate Theses/Dissertations

This creative thesis includes thirty-four poems and thirteen illustrations that investigate the topic of self-exploration, creative freedom, and liberatory pleasure. My poems are souvenirs from a failed ethical standard, a trove of misogynic micro-aggressions, a spotlight on the backward- ness of gender norms, and a surprisingly strong thread that links women to the planet and to shared language, a thread humankind continuously tries to cut. The methods of research were largely a self- study and one that required consistent reflection. The results were a collection of writings that had to be revised and edited with the guidance of my thesis …

Regina Olsen Hughes Essay, Valencia Crosby

A with Honors Projects

An essay about scientific illustrator Regina Olsen Hughes and her experiences living with deafness and using sign language as a tool for success.

Resonancethe Interdisciplinary Design Process + Site Specific Work In An Interative Lens, Danica Hak

Gaines Fellow Senior Theses

This thesis serves as a lineage of research exploring the relationship between dance and design, emphasizing and encouraging interdisciplinary design processes that are cyclic and iterative. As the push for diversity, equity, and inclusion rises in the design field, experimentation in other disciplines and their relationship with design promotes more thoughtful, human-centered spaces. The overlaps of design and dance highlight the relationship of body and space through circulation patterns, ergonomic design, public performance, and site-specific work. Nontraditional performance (anything that is not in a typical proscenium viewing) allows a fostering, mutualistic relationship between performer, audience, and the environment.

Breaking Molds: Transformative Processes In Art Making, Materials, And Life, James M. Wysolmierski

Graduate Thesis and Dissertation 2023-2024

Drawing upon traumatic moments of my past as a catalyst, I pursue understanding and acceptance of physical and emotional pain. In this thesis body of work, I employ the intersection of industrial and body imagery in sculptural forms and installation as a corporeal and allegorical account of my lived experience using visual narratives of trepidation and metamorphosis. In my creative practice, I incorporate various materials that create a reference of specific moments from my past. The artworks draw from principles rooted in Buddhism, affect theory, phenomenology, and materiality; incorporating them as tools to comprehend my position in the world and …

Fr1: Comics, Cyborgs, And “In Between” Identities, Ella Lehavi

Scripps Senior Theses

As a queer Jew who grew up surrounded by immigrant cultures and communities, I find myself in a liminal space between my identities and the dominant culture of my country– one where my perspective on gender and my cultural experiences aren’t fully understood by the world I exist in. Comics and cartoons are an explorational platform for concepts of reality and identity; they are one of very few spaces where I see my identities explored with so much depth and care.

Cartoons and comics exist in between realistic depictions and abstraction. This makes them a great place to express all …

Notorious: John Singer Sargent's Madame X, Frankie M. Smith

SPARK Symposium Presentations

The meaning and controversy behind John Singer Sargent's Madame X painting.

Energy Harvesting Face Mask Using A Thermoelectric Generator For Powering Wearable Health Monitoring Sensors, Ugur Erturun, Cansu Yalim, James E. West

Engineering Management & Systems Engineering Faculty Publications

A wearable energy harvester (EH) incorporating a face mask with a thermoelectric generator is demonstrated. The function of this device is to generate electrical power from the heat produced by the human body, particularly breath, with the specific aim of powering wearable sensor applications. A prototype was built using a commercially available N95 face mask, a thermoelectric generator, and a heatsink. The performance of this EH device was assessed using experimental and numerical methodologies. The experimentally tested power output of the prototype was found to be ≈100 µW, with a corresponding power density of ≈30 µW/cm3, for a temperature difference …

Blanket Statements, Issue 166, Seminar 2024

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 166, Seminar 2024

From Leonardo To Caravaggio: Affective Darkness, The Franciscan Experience And Its Lombard Origins, Anne H. Muraoka

Art Faculty Publications

The function of affectivity has generally focused on post-Council of Trent paintings, where artists sought a new visual language to address the imperative function of sacred images in the face of Protestant criticism and iconoclasm, either guided by the Council's decree on images, post-Tridentine treatises on sacred art, or by the Counter-Reformation climate of late Cinquecento and early Seicento Italy. This essay redirects the origins of the transformation of the function of chiaroscuro from objective to subjective, from corporeal to spiritual, and from rational to affective to a much earlier period in late Quattrocento and early Cinquecento Milan with Leonardo …

(Re)Producing Orientalism: Industry Logic Of Chinese Mobile Game Re-Skins In The Global App Empire, Yizhou Xu

Communication & Theatre Arts Faculty Publications

Through the case study of the mobile title Game of Sultans, this article examines the proliferation of iterative and copycat games through the practice of reskins in the mobile game industry. Based on year-long autoethnographic fieldwork working in a Chinese mobile game company, I provide an on-the-ground perspective of how Orientalist representations in reskinned games are instrumentalized through the roles of “cultural brokers” and the work of localization for Western markets. By taking a theoretical and technological understanding of reskins, I argue that reskinned games, as a form of industrial mimicry, while an important aspect of standardized game production, …