Art and Design Commons^™

The Drive For Disability, Aliyah Walker

Capstones

After recent inclusivity movements, the fashion industry had a reckoning that they need to do better when it comes to diversity. Size, age, and gender have started to have better representation in recent years; however, disability representation is still lagging. If the fashion industry wants to become truly inclusive, it needs to start representing disabled individuals positively and regularly both on the runway and in campaigns.

Link to Capstone Project: https://medium.com/@aliyah.walker83/the-drive-for-diversity-b29288adc482

Relationships Between Dress And Gender Identity: Lgbtqia+, Alyssa Dana Adomaitis, Diana Saiki, Kim K. P. Johnson, Rafi Sahanoor, Arsha Attique

Publications and Research

No abstract provided.

Fast Fashion From A Buddhist Perspective, Elizabeth Mclaughlin

HON499 projects

The connection between Buddhism and fast fashion is not immediately apparent, nor is it a particularly well-researched area. However, the topic of consumption underlies both topics, relating to each in markedly different ways. Buddhist precepts outline practices of mindful and sustainable consumption within limited means; fast fashion fosters consumption on a massive, global scale. The work of Ernst Friedrich Schumacher, a man with a career in economics that was aided by great concern for the survival and success of humankind, offers clarity to the conversation about Buddhism and fast fashion. He pioneered the field of Buddhist economics, which seeks to …

Covid-19 Masks In Terms Of Functional, Expressive, And Aesthetic Consumer Needs, Lily Highley

Apparel Merchandising and Product Development Undergraduate Honors Theses

The purpose of this study was to assess consumers' perspectives of COVID-19 masks under the functional, expressive, and aesthetic areas. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, masks have become an “accessory” to everyday life, and it was essential to research masks under these unique areas and explore consumer perceptions.

This study took place after background research on the topic and the FEA model. The study included a survey sent to Bumpers College students upon approval from the IRB. The data was analyzed and interpreted specifically in the FEA areas and can be useful to better understand the students at the University …

Addressing The Lack Of Availability In Diverse Skin Tone Options For Performance Fabric, Jessica Batey

Honors College Theses

The following research addresses the lack of availability in diverse skin tone options for performance fabric. The project will discuss the struggles people of color face when finding fabrics that accurately match their skin tone and the difficulties in sourcing the materials needed to successfully design a garment. The research gathered will be used to produce a collection of 4 looks using nude mesh fabrics that are readily available to the average consumer. The garments within the collection will be designed to match the skin color of 4 models. The collection’s theme will be based around the 4 cardinal witches …

Humanizing The Brutalist Interior: The Renovation Of Paul Rudolph's Claire T. Carney Library At Umass Dartmouth, Kelly Haigh, Ben Youtz

UMassBRUT Community

Members of the team that worked on the renovation of the Claire T. Carney Library, designed by Paul Rudolph and completed in 1972, share their design solutions for maintaining the integrity of the architecture and fostering an interior that is welcoming of its occupants. Discussions focus on interior attributes, human occupants, color, light and texture as approaches to humanize the massive concrete attributes that are notorious of Brutalist structures.

Reaping The Whirlwind: American Degree And Subject Colours (1962–Present), Kenny Suit

Transactions of the Burgon Society

A committee of representatives from several universities in the U.S. East Coast, called the Intercollegiate Commission on Academic Costume, standardized the American system of academic costume in 1895. The keystone of the standards was the hood, in its shape, edging, and colours. This article looks at changes to the colours assigned to degrees and areas of study from 1962 through the present. Charts showing when the colours started, and in some cases stopped, being used make up the appendices.

The Lack Of A Theology Hood At The University Of The West Indies, Mitchell A. Nicholls

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Established in 1948, The University of the West Indies offers a course in theology but has no hood for those who complete it. This article examines the history of the programme and considers the reasons no hood has been approved.

The Hoods Of The Three Senior Doctorates At Edinburgh, Nicholas Groves

Transactions of the Burgon Society

The article tracks changes to the hoods of Doctor of Divinity, Doctor of Laws, and Doctor of Medicine at the University of Edinburgh from various sources from 1843 to 1970 in a chart with illustrations.

In Memoriam: Robin L. D. Rees, Nicholas Groves

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Obituary of Robin L. D. Rees, 1946–2021. He was a Fellow of the Society and designed the hoods of the Institute of Physics and for the Archbishop’s Certificate in Church Music.

Editor’S Note, Stephen Wolgast

Transactions of the Burgon Society

No abstract provided.

Cap And Gown? Use Of Headgear At Graduation In Uk Universities In The Twenty-First Century, Martin J. Hardcastle

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Academic headwear, partticularly in the form of the square cap or mortar-board, is perhaps the most widely recognised symbol of educational achievement in the world. This article surveys the current practice of wearing academic caps of all types at graduation ceremonies in UK universities, to understand whether there are common factors in the use or disuse of headwear, and thus tentatively to explain the wide variation in practice that is seen in the twenty-first century.

The Evolution Of Undergraduate Academic Dress At The University Of Cambridge And Its Constituent Colleges, Brian M. Newman

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This paper charts the development of the distinctive academic costume worn by undergraduate members of England’s second oldest university, Cambridge. It follows the evolution in undergraduate academic dress from differentiation based upon social class and wealth (and regulated as such by the University) to one of differentiation, in most historical cases at least, by the college of which undergraduates are members, about which the University’s only current stipulation is that gowns should be knee-length.

Primary Source: Examining Official Dress In Universities In Aotearoa New Zealand, Scott Pilkington

Transactions of the Burgon Society

No abstract provided.

‘Different Forms Of Gowns For All Sorts Of Scholars In Their Several Ranks’: Academic Undress At Oxford In 1635, Alex Kerr

Transactions of the Burgon Society

This is a study of a one-page manuscript in the Oxford University Archives with the title ‘Different Forms of Gowns for All Sorts of Scholars in their Several Ranks’, dated June 1635. It was clearly written in connection with the Laudian Code of statutes, which was drafted in 1634 and adopted in 1636. The Code included regulations on university dress and its use at Oxford that would remain in force for 134 years. The document gives a concise specification for Oxford gowns at a time when other written records providing such detail are lacking and pictorial evidence is sparse. This …

A Grave Decent Gown: The 1690 Glasgow Gown Order, Neil K. Dickson

Transactions of the Burgon Society

In 1690 the University of Glasgow ordered gown for two of its officers, the invoice for which is in the University’s archives. This article relies on the document to examine the designs of the gowns in details, to see how they influenced academic dress at the University to the present day, and to understand the political statement they made at the time, when newly appointed officers were seeking to exercise their authority in the context of a changed national political scene.

Reflections Of Designing The Academic Dress Of The University Of Hertfordshire, Bruce Christianson

Transactions of the Burgon Society

Thirty years ago the authors were involved in the design of the academic dress for the new University of Hertfordshire. In this article they reflect upon the process and describe the conversations and discussions that led to the university’s dress for graduates, staff, faculty and officers.

Uprising, Issue 12 [Fall 2021], University Of Northern Iowa. Northern Iowa Student Government.

Uprising

Inside This Issue:

Letter from the Editors --- 5
The Renovation --- 9
Intelligent Enjoyment --- 10
Exile of Gender Norms in Fashion --- 18
Beauty Revamped --- 20
Angel Numbers --- 25
Protect Your Energy --- 26
Within the 13% --- 34
Work from Home --- 36
Minimalism vs Maximalism --- 38
Bend the Rules --- 40
Gilded Gold --- 46
Skewed Perspective of Social Media --- 48

Innovator - Fall 2021

Innovator

05 - Message from the President

09 - The Provost's Column

10 - Time Machine: A Glorious Stride

14 - The Nexus: News at Jefferson

22 - Fabric Wins

28 - Mind Over Matter

36 - A Designing Woman

42 - Celebration of Innovation

48 - Question & Innovate: Tracy Durkin, Esq. '83

52 - New Curriculum Nurtures Students' Creative Side

56 - Answering the Call (of Duty)

58 - Reimagine

60 - An Extraordinary Everywoman

62 - Ram Roundup

64 - Class Notes

72 - In Memory

74 - Trivia

Innovator - Fall 2020

Innovator

05 - Message from the President

09 - An Inflection Point for Higher Education

10 - Time Machine: Heart and Lung

16 - The Nexus: News at Jefferson

24 - Newest American Girl Doll

28 - Establishing a Global Classroom

30 - Textile Professionals Answer a Looming Need

34 - Getting Physics-al

38 - The Global Studio

44 - Houston, We Have a Solution

50 - Question & Innovate

54 - The Weave of Possibility

60 - Reimagine

64 - Ram Roundup

68 - Class Notes

72 - In Memory

74 - Trivia

The Clothing Left Behind: A Collection Of Stories, Grace Coleman

Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects

Beyond its material use, clothing can have powerful emotional effects such as easing grief from personal loss or serving as a memory recall aid for individuals with dementia. It was during my graduate program that I became interested in exploring the idea that clothing can be powerful beyond its aesthetic. Peter Stallybrass’s essay Worn Worlds: Clothes, Mourning and the Life of Things highlighting clothing’s ability to evoke memories and emotions was influential in setting me on my path to research clothing’s connection to memories. Whether it was embodied identity, grief, dementia, mourning rituals, or collective mourning, I was looking at …

Clothing Construction Curriculum: Exploring Gender Inclusivity, Shaelin M. Nilsen

All Graduate Theses and Dissertations, Spring 1920 to Summer 2023

Female students have traditionally dominated enrollment in Family and Consumer Sciences (FCS) courses (formerly Home Economics). However, gender diversity has recently increased in many FCS areas due to changes in gender stereotypes and career opportunities. This trend is evident at Utah State University, where gender diversity in clothing construction (i.e., sewing) courses has increased drastically since the creation of the Outdoor Product Design and Development degree program. This study evaluated students’ experiences in traditionally female-dominant clothing construction courses.

Gender-inclusive courses are crucial for a productive and safe learning environment for all students. Avoiding personal biases and cultivating a relevant curriculum …

Colorful, Weird, And Wonderful: The Influences Of Subculture On The Fashion Of The 1960s, Gianna M. Zanzi

University Honors Theses

In this paper, I attempt to examine the fashion of three dominant subcultures within the American Counterculture movement of the 1960s--the Youthquakers, Mods, and Hippies--before discussing my project that was synthesized from this research; three outfits, one representing each subculture, that I had sewn using vintage and vintage-inspired patterns, fabrics, and notions. While I myself was not alive during the 1960s, my interest in the aesthetics associated with the decade were my motivation for trying my hand at creating period-accurate clothing using techniques and materials that would have also been used at this time. This essay is the documentation of …

From Marginal To Mainstream: The Queer History Of Camp Aesthetics & Ethical Analysis Of Camp In High Fashion, Emily Barker

Honors Projects

‘Camp’ has become a buzzword in fashion over the last few years, due to a rise in popularity following the 2019 MET Gala theme, “Camp: Notes on Fashion.” Based on Susan Sontag’s 1964 book “Notes on Camp,” the event highlighted many aesthetic elements of Camp sensibilities, but largely ignores the importance of the LGBTQ+ community in Camp’s development. In this piece, I highlight various intersections of Camp and queerness over the last century and attempt to understand Camp’s place in High Fashion today.

Sartorial Semiotics: Constructs Of Gender And Female Sexuality In Post Wwii American And European Cinema, Patricia Cabral

Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects

Cinematic costume design functions as a system of visually-perceived, material and indexical signifiers, an effective and compelling language further informed by styling and embodiment. Sartorial semiotics support and inflect role characterization, while equally underpinning or subverting tropes generated by ideological paradigms. The following methodological approaches were adopted in scrutinizing this topic: Roland Barthes’ application of semiotic theories to the domain of fashion in The Language of Fashion, and Laura Marks’ discussion of the dialectics of optical and haptic visualities in apprehending film images in The Skin of Film: Intercultural Cinema, Embodiment, and the Senses.

By examining the costume …

Using Big Data To Facilitate A Lyrical Analysis Of Poetry And Rap, Remington Yve Giller

English Undergraduate Distinction Projects

Poetry and rap are dissected using text mining techniques in order to determine overall trends in the words used by both. With this data, the way in which ideas and concepts are expressed can be compared and contrasted as a way of showing the legitimacy of rap as a form of literary expression. Other topics within the paper are: a background of the history of rap and the digital humanities, and an example of a close reading featuring a medieval poem and a rap by Eminem. This demonstrates how even in a traditional way of handling texts, both poetry and …

Synesthetic Perception: Exploring The Senses Of A Synesthete Through Theatrical Art-Wear, Makenna Trujillo

Honors College Theses

The neurological condition known as Synesthesia is a condition that changes the way that the world is perceived for the affected individual. Altering the brain’s interpretations of sensory input means that when one sense is triggered, it can create a neuro-domino effect and trigger an otherwise completely unrelated sense. It comes in many forms, and no two are exactly alike. While there is a possibility of two Synesthetes having the same trigger and response senses, Synesthesia is so unpredictable that it is nearly impossible for two synesthetes to have the exact same experience. In this work, the researcher possesses a …

Cosmic Desert Art, Mike Graham De La Rosa

Chamisa: A Journal of Literary, Performance, and Visual Arts of the Greater Southwest

The Cosmic Desert are the designs inspired by chile hallucinations, desert creatures, and the long weird neon nights in the Borderworld. Made with love on the banks of the Rio Grande.

My family is originally from Northern Mexico but I grew up in Northern New Mexico down river of both where Al Hurricane and Nuclear Annihilation were originally created. Amongst chollas, rattle snakes, and river willow, the imagining of New Mexico permeates the landscapes. The Cosmic Desert is inhabited lowriders, taco trucks, neon adobe bars, cholas, native peoples, immigrants, punk rockers and cowboys. Just beyond the darkness, our imagination takes …

Beautiful People: The Past, Present, And Future Of The Fashion Industry's Thin Ideal, Shane White

Graduate Theses and Dissertations

Negative body image among women has become an extremely relevant topic in the last decade. The “ideal” female body image and what a person should look like according to marketing and advertising has become a highly controversial issue. This project seeks to show how the fashion industry has, over centuries, shaped how people think they need to look and in today’s time and show how it has been a root cause of issues like body image complexes leading to negative self-perception, eating disorders, mental illnesses like anxiety, depression and addiction, and even suicide. Over the last three to four decades, …

Beauty And Lifestyle Subscription Services: A Modern Retailing Format For The Vigilante Collaborative Consumption Consumer, Melisa Spilinek

Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Fashion Design: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

Advancements in technology and ease of use of online shopping via phone applications (apps) and subscription services have fundamentally changed how consumers shop. Now more than ever, consumers are turning to time-saving technological tools that are subscription services. Subscription services provide a multitude of benefits to consumers and contribute to collaborative consumption in nearly every product and service category from coffee to apparel. To investigate beauty and lifestyle subscription services and collaborative consumption this study will utilize a mixed methods convergent design to analyze user experience including price sensitivity, subscription service apps and ease of use. Anticipated contributions to the …