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Southwinds - Spring 1994

Southwinds: The Literary and Arts Magazine of Missouri S&T

Volume XXI

Southwinds Literary Magazine is produced by the Southwinds Club of Rolla, Missouri. Southwinds is produced entirely by and for the students of the University of Missouri--Rolla.

Ornament And Islamic Art, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Review of: The Mediation of Ornament, by OLEG GRABAR & Problems of Style: Foundations for a History of Ornament, by ALOIS RIEGL.

TWO MAJOR WORKS addressing the nature of art, published in the same year but written a century apart, are each based, in part, upon analyses of Islamic monuments. Both derive from series of lectures on the history of ornament, and each offers a perspective explicitly countering the author's own intellectual milieu in the study of art focused on Western tradition.

Problems of Style is an impressive translation of Stilfragen, a broadly-based and wide-ranging inquiry by Alois …

Reflections 1994, Markell Lynch, Scott Lesley, Brad Southend

Reflections

The 1994 issue of Reflections was edited by Markell Lynch and Scott Lesley with Brad Southend serving as faculty adviser. Award winners of the student writing contest include: Ensley F. Guffey, Gary T. Mitchem, and Heather Love. Award winners of the student art contest include: Scott Goforth, Yoshi Shinaro, and Sabrina Barnes.

Abstract Liturgical Art, Adam Begnaud Osb

School of Theology and Seminary Graduate Papers/Theses

This paper is the end product of an Independent Learning Project under the direction of Helen Rolfson, 0.S.F. at Saint John's University, School of Theology, Collegeville, Minnesota, which investigated the spirituality of liturgical art in the Roman Catholic tradition. The particular focus of research was on the use of abstract art and iconoclasm within the tradition and in general theory. The paper presents the author's theory of contemporary liturgical art for the Roman Catholic Church in the West based upon his findings.

Peter Krasnow: Sculptor And Draftsman, Nora Eccles Harrison Museum Of Art

Exhibit Catalogues

Peter Krasnow was identified as a significant contributor to the ideas of modernism which were manifested in architecture, painting, sculpture, literature, and movie making.

Peter Krasnow: Sculptor/ Draftsman, Tobey C. Moss, Steven W. Rosen

Exhibit Catalogues

Exhibition catalog from Peter Krasnow: Sculptur/Draftsman shown in the Nora Eccles Harrison Museum of Art. Essay by Tobey C. Moss.

Steinbeck's Portraits Of Prostitutes: Progression Of An Author's Vision, Rhonda Jenkins

Mahurin Honors College Capstone Experience/Thesis Projects

No abstract provided.

Frank C. Button, Yang Neng Chiang

Morehead State University Art Collection

An oil painting of Frank C. Button created in 1994 by artist Yang Neng Chiang.

A.D. Albright, Yang Neng Chiang

Morehead State University Art Collection

An oil painting of A.D. Albright created in 1994 by artist Yang Neng Chiang.

The Body Temple, Laura Davidson, Special Collections, Fleet Library

Artists' Books

sculptural, hinged panels unfold to create a 3 dimensional architectural "temple"; exquisite corpse; box exterior; first opening; side views; angled viewss. Classical and Renaissance architects used parts of the human body as metaphors and inspiration for designing buildings.

You Must Assimilate The Shifts In Perspective, Steven Hoskins, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker

Culture

This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class.

India, Falza Khanani, Fleet Library, Special Collections, Jan Baker

Culture

This book was completed for Jan Baker's artists' book class.

Ivy Leaves, 1993-1994, Ivy Leaves Editorial Staff

Ivy Leaves

The 1994 edition of the Anderson College journal of art and literature, Ivy Leaves.

The names of the known editors for this issue of Ivy Leaves were Jennifer Cox, Renate Gunnels, Alison Mode, Barry Watts, Shannon Betsinger, Lisa Edmonds, Andi Jacoby, Mary Nell Tysinger, Merry Lee Wentzky, Wayne Cox, and Susan Wooten.

The Mockingbird - 1994, Department Of Art And Design, East Tennessee State University, Department Of Literature And Language, East Tennessee State University

The Mockingbird [magazine]

Gina Bailiff [Me and the Tree]; Jonathan Bullen [Rip Van Morrison]; Roger Carper [Stay In or Out; Of Moon and Sun]; Annie Cicale [Corporate Daycare, Geek Love]; Jennifer Corbett [Contour Figure]; Todd Cregger [Hell, I'll Fix That Thing!]; Robin Ferguson [Eremina]; Randy Gentry [Mushrooms and Troll; The Book of Death]; Darlene Glover [Scene of the Crime; A New Beginning]; Judy Gouge [Summer Nights]; Shawn Grimes [Maryland's Truth]; Jennifer Halli [Western Auto]; Sabine Iser [The Two Germanies]; Greta Jones [Childbirth]; Scott Keeton [Control; A Sign of Life; Microcosm]; Gediyon Kifle [?]; Penny Kuhn [Berry Picking; San Antonio TX, 1993]; Steve Leasure …

Pennsylvania Folklife Vol. 43, No. 2, Susan Kalcik, Hilda Adam Kring, Regina Bendix, Mindy Brandt, Thomas E. Gallagher Jr., Patricia Irvin Cooper, John I. Schwarz Jr., Willard Wetzel

Pennsylvania Folklife Magazine

• The America's Industrial Heritage Project: A Model for Cultural Tourism
• The Harmonists are Waiting for You
• The Quest for Authenticity in Tourism and Folklife Studies
• Tourism and the Old Order Amish
• The Log Cabin: Notes on its Structure and Dissemination
• On the Making of Die Union Choral Harmonie (1833): Evidence from Henry C. Eyer's Working Papers
• In Memoriam: Paul R. Wieand, a True Artist

Preface - Contact, Crossover, Continuity - 1994, Louise W. Mackie, Patricia R. Anawalt

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Inc., was hosted by the Fowler Museum of Cultural History, University of California, Los Angeles, California, September 22–24, 1994. The papers addressed a broad theme which was chosen in order to accommodate the diverse interests of members. The proceedings contains the thirty papers and two abstracts of papers presented at the symposium, plus a video script, and a list of the two hundred and forty participants.

Contact, Crossover, Continuity highlights the causes and effects of change on textiles around the world. The proceedings provides an opportunity to identify and evaluate …

Table Of Contents - Contact, Crossover, Continuity - 1994

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Table of contents from Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings of the Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, September 22–24, 1994

What’S In A Name: The Domestication Of Factory Produced Wax Textiles In Cote D’Ivoire, Kathleen E. Bickford

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In a frequently evoked passage from Romeo and Juliet, William Shakespeare asks "What's in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet." Yet, as Romeo and Juliet tragically come to learn, human beings make much of names. Indeed, one's name is a significant part of one's social persona; it can describe who we are, it can join us and separate us from others, and it can link us to the past. In a sense, when we are named we are given an identity. Describing the complexities of naming for the Wamakua …

Continuity Of Culture: A Reenactor’S Goal, Elizabeth Mcclure

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper examines the maintenance of cultural continuity through historical reenactment. It is the reenactor's goal, in this case, to portray and maintain the culture of Ireland and Scotland. They are holding on to this culture and presenting it to others by maintaining the dress, crafts, and lifestyles of sixteenth-century Scotland and Ireland.

The methods of data collection for this study were ethnographic in nature. Interviews with key informants were conducted. In addition, there was a questionnaire distributed to members of the group This method of data collection provided the insight to see how a member of this group achieved …

Green Labels With Golden Elephants: Western European Printed Cottons For Malaysia And Indonesia, Frieda Sorber

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the second half of the 19th century, several Belgian cotton printing firms were involved in the production of imitations of African and Southeast Asian textiles for markets in West-Africa, the Dutch East Indies, and Malaysia. Extensive records of one firm, the Societe Anonyme Texas, owned by the Voortman family in Ghent, have been preserved in the Ghent public records office and the Vrieselhof Textile Museum (Oelegem, near Antwerp). Frans de Vos and Abraham Voortman started a cotton printing establishment in Ghent in 1790. At that time cotton printing was a relatively new type of enterprise in Flanders. The first …

Bolong-Bolong And Tirtanadi: An Unknown Group Of Balinese Textiles, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff, Monika Palm-Nadolny

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

On late 19th- and early 20th-century photographs, South and East Balinese people clad in traditional adat wardrobe for rituals, temple ceremonies, and dances often wear transparent, netlike open-work textiles as breastcloth (anteng), shouldercloth (cerik) girdle (selendang), or headcloth (destar, lelunakan). Information given by elderly Balinese concerning the situation before World War II confirm their use as part of their ceremonial wardrobe but also as important items in offerings and rituals. Such textiles could be laid over several fabrics, covering the body of a toothfiling candidate, or serve as curtains (langse …

Micronesian Textiles In Transition: The Woven Tol Of Kosrae, Ann Deegan, Ross Cordy

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper presents findings on the major steps in the transition of the Kosraen tol from traditional clothing, to tourist souvenir, to the end of tol manufacture. An extensive study of the German, French, and English literature of the 19th and 20th centuries was done to piece together the history of the Kosraen tol.

The island of Kosrae, located in the Pacific (4–10°N latitude, 140–163°E longitude), is part of the Federated States of Micronesia. Since earliest European contact it has seen numerous changes in its traditional culture. One of its most beautiful and complex traditional crafts is the woven …

The "Severed Shroud": Local And Imported Textiles In The Mortuary Rites Of An Indonesian People, Penelope Graham

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores the significance of local and imported textiles as these interact forming complex categories in the mortuary rites of the Lamaholot-speaking people of the traditional district Lewolema in eastern Flores, Indonesia. Within this regional framework, my account draws primarily on field work in the village of Lewotala. There a person's physical demise elicits diverse social and ritual practices, depending on the deceased's achievements during his or her lifetime and the circumstances surrounding the death. As regards the mortuary sequence that commonly occurs, I will argue that various uses of cloth for exchange purposes mark both the severence—consequent on …

Supplementary Weft On An "Ikat" Isle: The Weaving Communities Of Northwestern Flores, Roy W. Hamilton

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Among textile enthusiasts, the island of Flores is known primarily for its beautiful warp-ikat cloths. Most of the island's numerous ethno-linguistic groups, including the Ngadha, Nage, Endenese, Lio, Palu'e, Sikkanese, and Lamaholot, produce related yet distinctive textiles within this tradition. It is therefore surprising to find a series of weaving districts, stretching along the northwest coast of the island, where the ikat technique is not used. Instead, weavers in this region produce indigo-dyed textiles decorated with colorful supplementary-weft motifs.

In the ikat districts, sarongs for men and women differ in their patterning and in the names applied to them. In …

The Influence Of Computer Technologies On Contemporary Woven Fiber Art, Cynthia Schira

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

It is generally agreed upon, by both the participants in the field and those few who have chronicled it, that the fiber art movement as we know it today began with Jean Lurcat in France in the late 1950s. He was among the first, if not the first, to make designs or cartoons specifically for the medium of tapestry. Previously, paintings were translated into the medium of tapestry. As well as creating the design or cartoon, he personally oversaw the actual weaving process. This direct connection between the process and the concept or image, the manual and the mind, laid …

Byzantine Influences Along The Silk Route: Central Asian Silks Transformed, Anna Maria Muthesius

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Silks traded along the ancient Silk Route were precious, light, and easily transportable commodities that served as ideal vehicles for cross-cultural exchange. The survival of several hundred Central Asian silks, variously datable between the seventh and the eleventh centuries, presents an opportunity to trace patterns of trade, diplomacy and cross-cultural developments at the heart of the Silk Road. These silks perfectly mirror contact, cross over, and change fostered under the auspices of Mediterranean/Near Eastern economic and diplomatic exchange.

This paper will ask three questions:

1. What lay behind Byzantine influence in Central Asia along the ancient Silk Route?

2. What …

Cloth As Marriage Gifts: Change In Exchange Among The Lio Of Flores, Willemijn De Jong

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The exchange of gifts at life cycle ceremonies is one of the most important institutions in Lio society, as in many other societies in Oceania. The life cycle event of marriage and its exchange of gifts is often significant, because important sociopolitical alliances between kin groups are initiated or renewed. In these exchanges, cloth wealth may play a crucial role, especially in ranked societies. Weiner contends that in Samoa "each distribution [of fine mats] is an example of the negotiation and validation of rank and power." Gittinger has pointed out the economic and symbolic value of cloth gifts at marriage …

From The Ancestors Or The Portuguese: Exotic Textiles In Flores And The Solor Archipelago, Robyn Maxwell

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Throughout the eastern Indonesian island of Flores and the neighbouring Solor archipelago, village treasuries usually contain considerable numbers of highly valued textiles and some items of costume. These consist predominantly of important local products clearly made within the particular village or district.

Other heirloom textiles have been acquired from outside the local regions in the distant or not-so-distant past. These exotic heirlooms are often awarded a special place in the hierarchy of textiles found throughout Flores, Solor, and Lembata and, where possible, examines local histories and myths associated with the origins of particular objects or types of cloth.

Further, an …

Market Effects On The Design And Construction Of Carpets In The Milas Region Of Southwestern Turkey, 1963–1993, Charlotte A. Jirousek

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Beginning in 1964 my husband and I were involved in the development of a village carpet weaving cooperative in Southwestern Turkey. We lived with the weavers of Çömlekçi from 1964 to 1966, as part of the first Peace Corps rural community development program in Turkey. Between 1966 and 1969 we continued to work with the cooperative in its efforts to develop markets and quality control standards while working as Peace Corps staff. Since leaving Turkey in 1969, I have visited Çömlekçi periodically, most recently in 1992 and 1994.

The success of the Çömlekçi cooperative in tum generated carpet cooperatives throughout …

The Assimilation Of European Designs Into Twentieth Century Indian Saris, Linda Lynton

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although so-called "Indian" designs of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century chintzes influenced Western European [Western] textiles almost from their introduction, Western patterns did not impinge on indigenous Indian fabrics, such as saris, until the last half of the nineteenth century.

They were superimposed upon an already complex mix of textile ornamental styles, which can be briefly categorized as: (i) Mughal, (ii) Hindu, and (iii) adivasi (aboriginal). The Mughal style consists of the elaborately patterned prints and brocades typical of western India. It shows strong Persian influences, such as the kalga (Paisley motif); intertwining floral vines (bel); and life-like depictions of …