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(Re-)Fashioning Identity: Late Twentieth-Century Transformations In Dress And Society In Boliva, Elayne Zorn

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The members of most of Bolivia's large indigenous ethnic groups, such as the nearly 22,000 people of ayllu Sakaka of northern Potosi, continue to wear a distinctive daily dress. Such dress nationally and internationally is emblematic of the Sakaka's separate, and to many inferior, identity as Indians. To the wearers also, or perhaps fundamentally, such dress marks a division between clothed indigenous humans (runa) and naked foreign outsiders (q'ara). This interpretation coincides with hegemonic non-Indian evaluations of Indian separateness, but reverses the hierarchy.

Yet most members of these large indigenous ethnic groups, whom I refer to …

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings Of The Fourth Biennial Symposium Of The Textile Society Of America (1994) [Entire]

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Preface 7

Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Fiber and Garment

Featured Paper: Ancient Near Eastern Fibers and the Reshaping of European Clothing Elizabeth J. W. Barber 9

Wreath and Cap to Veil and Apron: American Modification of a Slavic Ritual Patricia Williams 19

Panel: Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa

Akwete-Igbo Weavers as Entrepreneurs and Innovators at the Turn of the Century Lisa Aronson 31

What’s in a Name: The Domestication of Factory Produced Wax Textiles in Cote d’Ivoire Kathleen E. Bickford 39

Technology and Change: The Incorporation of Synthetic Dye Techniques in Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria Judith Byfield 45

The …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 15 (1994), Virginia Gunn, Fawn Valentine, Merikay Waldvogel, Jennifer F. Goldsborough, Sunny Falling-Rain, American Quilt Society, Beverly Dunivent, Kathleen Curtis Wilson

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Virginia Gunn

Research Papers

Aesthetics. and Ethnicity: Scotch-Irish Quilts in West Virginia by Fawn Valentine

Mildred Dickerson: A Quilt Pattern Collector of the 1960s and 1970s by Merikay Waldvogel

An Album of Baltimore Album Quilt Studies by Jennifer F. Goldsborough

A Literary Patchwork Crazy Quilt: Toni Morrison's Beloved by Sunny Falling-rain

Kit Quilts .in Perspective by Anne Copeland and Beverly Dunivent

Weaving Cloth and Marketing Nostalgia: Clinch Valley Blanket Mills, 1890-1950, Cedar Bluff, Virginia by Kathleen Curtis Wilson

Authors and Editor

Index

Blanket Statements, Issue 34, Fall 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 34, Fall 1993

Blanket Statements, Issue 33, Summer 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 33, Summer 1993

Tappeti Safavidi: L'Evoluzione Storica E Culturale Dell'arte Tessile Iraniana Dal Xvi Al Xviii Secolo, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

In Iran l'epoca safavide coincide con il periodo aureo dell'arte tessile: proprio nel XVI secolo infatti si completò l'evoluzione stilistica del tappeto persiano classico e la tessitura di sete e velluti giunse ai massimi livelli per tecnica e per decorazioni.

Nelle fasi successive della storia persiana nei tessuti e nei tappeti continuarono a vivere le straordinarie innovazioni dell'epoca safavide, tuttora insuperate.Nella storia l'Iran è stato uno dei più importanti paesi produttori di tessili.

In epoca medievale le sontuose sete ed i tappeti erano ricercati dalle case regnanti e dalla nobiltà europea per la qualità eccellente e per la bellezza fuori …

Blanket Statements, Issue 32, Spring 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 32, Spring 1993

Sites Of Recollection: Four Altars And A Rap Opera, Museum Of Contemporary Art At Wright State University

Exhibition and Program Catalogs

A program from an exhibition featuring the works of artists Jenni Lukač, Angel Suarez-Rosado, James Luna, Renée Stout, and Y. David Chung. The exhibiton also included a panel discussion called As the World Turns-Culture, Compromise, and Ritual in the '90s.

Falcons And Flowers: Safavid Persian Textile Arts, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

The Safavid period in Iran was a golden age for textile arts. It was in the 16th century that the Classical Persian carpet evolved to its fully developed form, and it was then that woven silks and velvets reached the highest technical and aesthetic standards of all time. In subsequent periods of Persian history, textiles and carpets reflect the extraordinary achievements of the Safavid era which have never been surpassed.

Under the reign of Shah Abbas I, who reigned from 1588 to 1629, Iran established important economic ties not only with the rapidly emerging European powers, but with the Mughal …

What Is An Oriental Carpet?, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Have you ever just stared at an Oriental carpet? Have you ever wondered what makes it so attractive, fascinating, or puzzling? Have you admired its simplicity or its intricacy? Have you ever wondered where it came from? Or, how it was made?

What is an Oriental Carpet? attempts to answer some of these questions. Conceived in response to visitors' requests for more basic information about textiles, this educational approach encourages the viewer to participate in an exploration of Oriental carpets.

Although the terms carpet and rug are often interchanged, here a carpet is defined as a fairly large pile-weaving intended …

Blanket Statements, Issue 35, Winter 1993

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 35, Winter 1993

Piety And Power In Early Sasanian Art, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Sasanian art has long been considered a royal art: An art in service of royalty. Indeed, traditions of kingship in Iran became a paradigm for kingship throughout the world (though not always recognized as such). But the significance and strength of Iranian kingship no doubt led, in part, to scholarly paradigms in which nearly all in historical Iran has been cast in the shadow of kingship. But there are other ways to look at kingship in Iran. This paper explores the representation of royal images in early Sasanian art from a religious perspective, a view perhaps eclipsed by the ever-present …

Knots And Bolts: Design And Technology In The Caucasus, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

In the largest sense, Oriental rugs represent both the social history and manufacturing traditions of their particular cultures and are related to the human needs, economies, and ecological constraints of those societies. Each textile or fragment represents a complex set of human interactions between user and viewer, implying a social response, and between user and maker, sometimes resulting from economic transactions among buyer and seller, lender, merchant, and trader. Suppliers of raw materials and market superintendents or commissioners for fair trade and quality control may also have been involved. The quality and appearance of any given textile results from the …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 14 (1993), Laurel Horton, Judy Elsley, Bets Ramsey, Patricia Cox Crews, Pat Crothers, Mary Jane Furgason, Sandra German, Emma Grahame, Jeannette Lasansky, Kristin Miller, Laurel Thatcher Ulrich

Uncoverings Journal

Preface by Laurel Horton

Research Papers

Art and Quilts: 1950,1970 9 Pat Crothers: Gender Misapprehensions: The "Separate Spheres" Ideology, Quilters, and Role Adaptation, 1850, 1890 by Bets Ramsey

Innovative Group Quiltmaking in an Isolated Coastal Community in British Columbia, Canada: Out of the Mainstream by Kristin Miller

Southwestern Quilts and Quiltmakers in Context by Jeannette Lasansky

The Smithsonian Quilt Controversy: Cultural Dislocation by Judy Eisley

Surfacing: The Inevitable Rise of the Women of Color Quilters' Network by Sandra K. German

Quiltmaking in Australia and the 1988 Bicentennial Celebrations by Emma Grahame

Prizes from the Plains: Nebraska State Fair Award, Winning …

Blanket Statements, Issue 30, Fall 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 30, Fall 1992

Blanket Statements, Issue 29, Summer 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 29, Summer 1992

Quotations: The Second History Of Art, The Aldrich Museum Of Contemporary Art, Museum Of Contemporary Art, Wright State University

Exhibition and Program Catalogs

This catalog discusses the Quotations: The Second History of Art, an exhibit originally displayed at The Aldrich Museum of Contemporary Art from May to September of 1992 and then was displayed at the Museum of Contemporary Art at Wright State University from October to November of 1992.

"The art in Quotations is 120 about hero worship, ego inflation, or mimicking. It is about our times and it addresses questions concerning the value of originality. These artists' seemingly casual selection of historical works and periods make reference to today's consumer-driven society and to the compression of art history into a marketable …

Blanket Statements, Issue 28, Spring 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 28, Spring 1992

The City Influence, Museum Of Contemporary Art At Wright State University

Exhibition and Program Catalogs

The gallery guide discusses the exhibition The City Influence shown at Wright State University from January 26 through February 21, 1992. The exhibition focused on abstract painting.

X6: New Directions In Multiples, The Aldrich Museum Of Contemporary Art, Museum Of Contemporary Art

Exhibition and Program Catalogs

This exhibit catalog shows work that is considered multiples, objects created by artists but not necessarily made by them or the idea of art works that could be easily reproduced with no diminution of meaning. The exhibit singled out six publishers with widely varying points of view to showcase: A/D, Artes Magnus, Kunst Editon New York, Editions Schellmann, Carl Solway Gallery, and Thea Westreich. The exhibit was originally shows at The Aldrich Museum of Contemporary Art from January 26-May 3, 1992 and then shown at Wright State University, hosted by the Dayton Art Institute Museum of Contemporary Art from June …

Moving Pictures, Melissa Ann Mcclure

Dissertations and Theses

My thesis work includes 10 large drawings that explore the narrative qualities of line movement. I use line in these drawings as a recording device to document both the physical activity of the process and the personal experience that the lines represent. Through this work I attempt to develop a language of visual imagery that is autobiographical in nature. A system of personal symbols and recurring forms make up the structure of this visual vocabulary. Line movement and rhythm provides a sense of the dialog.

Blanket Statements, Issue 31, Winter 1992

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 31, Winter 1992

Bukhara: Traditional Weavings From Pre-Soviet Central Asia, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

In southern regions of what was the Soviet Union lie five independent republics, the populations of which are predominantly Turkic: Kazakhstan, Kirghizia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan. During the course of the past fifty years, each of these areas has seen increasing industrialization as part of the centralized planning of the Soviet economy. Today, throughout the region. privatization of industry is rapidly occuring. Accompanying these new developments, and as part of the political and economic changes of the last few years, there has been an increasing awareness of ethnic identity and cultural inheritance. This may be expressed through literary and intellectual …

Uncoverings: The Research Papers Of The American Quilt Study Group, Volume 13 (1992), Laurel Horton, Teresa Cooper Jacobs, Nancy Cameron Armstrong, Barbara Brackman, Dorothy Cozart, Janee Hindman, Carolyn H. Krone, Thomas M. Horner, Kristin M. Langellier, Margaret T. Ordoñez, Kari Ronning, Virginia Gunn

Uncoverings Journal

Cover Artist's Statement by Teresa Cooper Jacobs

Preface by Laurel Horton

Research Papers

Quilts of the Gulf War, Desert Storm-Participation or Protest? by Nancy Cameron Armstrong

Quiltmaking on the Overland Trails: Evidence from Women's Writing by Barbara Brackman

The Handwork of Women of One Southern Family by Dorothy Cozart

Quilt Talk: Verbal Performance Among a Group of African-American Quilters by Jane E. Hindman

Quilting and Bereavement: Her Grief in the Quilt by Carolyn Krone and Thomas M. Horner

Show-and-Tell as a Performance Event: Oppositional Practice in Contemporary Quiltmaking Culture by Kristin M. Langellier

Ink Damage on Nineteenth-Century Cotton Signature Quilts …

A Kurdish Reed Screen, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

A unique ethnographic monument recently donated to The Textile Museum merits special attention not only for its size (twenty-five feet long and four feet high), but for its important place in the history, use, construction, and decoration of functional textiles.

Designed to enclose space in a nomadic environment. the reed screen may be considered an architectural textile destined for use within the community in which it was made. This distinguishes it from commercial products manufactured for the market, and, indeed, from most other utilitarian textiles, although it shares with carpets and kilims an obvious intent to beautify the environment for …

Elements Of Plane Symmetry In Oriental Carpets, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Historically, in the Islamic world from Spain to Indonesia, two-dimensional repeat patterns have served as primary means for organizing color and space. The ornamentation of architecture may involve the modifications of a two-dimensional pattern in its application to a three-dimensional surface. All of the uses of pattern, appearing as well on ceramics and metalwork, in book illumination, and textiles, rely upon the repetition of complex or simple designs to form overall repeat patterns of apparent complexity and intricacy. Yet within all the visual diversity and within the variability of regional traditions throughout the Islamic world, there is a common visual …

Blanket Statements, Issue 26, Fall 1991

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 26, Fall 1991

Zami: A Portrait Of An Artist As A Black Lesbian, Barbara Dibernard

Department of English: Faculty Publications

As feminist critics, we cannot continue to ignore differences in race, sexuality, and class when we write about women; we should heed Adrienne Rich's critique of her own earlier work, that she will never again write of the "faceless, raceless, classless category of 'all women.'" Aware that my work will be partial and limited, I would like to explore Audre Lorde's Zami as a portrait of an artist as a black lesbian. In doing so, I hope to suggest areas where we must open up our conception of the female Kunstlerroman so that we are taking account of Lorde's black …

Blanket Statements, Issue 25, Summer 1991

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 25, Summer 1991

Words & #S, Museum Of Contemporary Art At Wright State University

Exhibition and Program Catalogs

The gallery guide discusses the exhibition Words and Numbers shown at Wright State University from April 7 through May 10, 1991. The exhibition focused on the combination of art and text.