Arts and Humanities Commons^™

Silk Underwear For Ny Swells In The Age Of Victoria, Diane Maglio

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This appears to be an age of silk. The correspondent of a country paper, writing from New York, says that men are becoming very luxurious, and their… wardrobes and repositories for personal belongings display tastes more costly than those of women…. [as they put on] underwear of the softest, richest knitted silk.

During the last quarter of the 19th century affluent men of leisure and fashion had many hours every day to “loiter at the various clubs and discuss matters of taste.” Those who displayed an exceptional interest in fashion were labeled “swells.” This research was inspired by a fictional …

Threads Of Resistance: Unraveling The Meanings Of 19th Century Tlingit Beaded Regalia, Megan A. Smetzer

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although not the first to make the connection, Ensign Albert Niblack of the U.S. Navy wrote most succinctly in 1888: “There seems nothing unreasonable in tracing the origin of much of the dance and ceremonial paraphernalia to customs originating in war.” Since that time, numerous scholars have suggested and disputed links between Tlingit carved and painted armor and ceremonial regalia. Beaded regalia, on the other hand has been almost entirely neglected in Northwest Coast ethnographic literature due to notions of authenticity and cultural degeneration. In 1945, anthropologist Erna Gunther for example, explained beaded dance collars as a mere disguise for …

Table Of Contents

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Contents

Preface

Session 1. Archaeology and the Silk Road

Session 2. Textile Artisans, Global Markets, and Sustainable Development in Africa and Asia

Session 3. Silk, the Middle East and Africa

Session 4. Acculturation

Session 5. Silk in Medieval Europe

Session 6. Individual Papers

Session 7. Common Treads: Unwinding the History of Silk Production in Mainland Southeast Asia

Session 8. New Perspectives on the American Silk Industry: Silk Products and Silk Manufacture in America

Session 9. High Roads/Low Roads, North Roads/South Roads: Regional and Cultural ‘Personalities’ in Ventral and Southern Andean Textiles, part 1

Session 10. The American Textile Industry

Session …

Irish Viking Age Silks And Their Place In Hiberno-Norse Society, Elizabeth Wincott Heckett

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The context:

From the beginning of the ninth century AD people from Scandinavia, many from present-day Norway began to settle in Ireland. They founded the modern Irish cities and towns of Dublin, Waterford, Cork, Limerick and Wexford and developed lively and successful trading settlements that flourished until the Anglo-Norman invasion in 1169 AD. We know from the literature that the Irish prized and used silk cloth at that time but at present excavations have not disclosed any remains of silk in what can be identified as specifically vernacular contexts. The situation is different for the Viking Age settlements. In particular …

From Benaras To Leh - The Trade And Use Of Silk-Brocade, Monisha Ahmed

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A weaver in Benaras sits at his pit loom meticulously creating a textile piece of Mahakala, the god of protection for Buddhists.

A lama at the festival (’cham) at Hemis monastery performs the religious dance, the Mahakala image on his apron (pang-kheb) gazing out at the devotees as he pirouettes around the courtyard.

The two descriptions given above demonstrate the beginning and end of the journey of silkbrocades from Benaras to Leh. This paper looks at the historical context of the trade in silkbrocades from Benaras to Leh, and discusses how this trade first started. It …

Wesley Simpson: Designer, Stylist And Entrepreneur, Lynn Felsher

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Over 20 years ago, The Museum at FIT received an anonymous gift of approximately 165 small textile samples and 27 scarves from the company, Wesley Simpson Custom Fabrics, Inc. The textiles dating from the late 1930s through the 1940s were designed for moderately priced women’s apparel. Printed on rayon crepe grounds, they were typical of the period, loose painterly florals, paisleys, conversationals, and small geometric, abstract and stripe patterns on light-colored grounds or discharge printed on dark grounds. The Metropolitan Museum of Art and The Brooklyn Museum of Art also have substantial holdings of Wesley Simpson Custom Fabrics, and an …

Silk In Ancient Nubia: One Road, Many Sources, Nettie K. Adams, William S. Webb

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Silk in ancient Africa? Most of us think of ancient Africans as members of a tribe, living by subsistence farming or herding, in villages of grass houses. But Nubia, the ancient Kush, located along the Nile in southern Egypt and the northern part of the Sudan, (Fig.l) was inhabited by an African people who, by 1800 BC, had developed their own high civilization. The Kushites were suppliers of ivory, ebony, gold, ostrich feathers, animal skins, and slaves to ancient Egypt and elsewhere in the Mediterranean world. In exchange they received a wide variety of manufactured goods.

By the fourth century …

From Benaras To Leh - The Trade And Use Of Silk-Brocade, Monisha Ahmed

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

A weaver in Benaras sits at his pit loom meticulously creating a textile piece of Mahakala. the god of protection for Buddhists.

A lama at the festival ('cham) at Hemis monastery performs the religious dance, the Mahakala image on his apron (pang-kheb) gazing out at the devotees as he pirouettes around the courtyard.

The two descriptions given above demonstrate the beginning and end of the journey of silkbrocades from Benaras to Leh. This paper looks at the historical context of the trade in silk-brocades from Benaras to Leh, and discusses how this trade first started. It …

Woven Bands, Medicines And Recipes: Cod. Pal. Germ. 551. The Adventures, Provenance And Contents Of A 15' Century Manuscript Held At The Library Of Heidelberg University In Germany., Ute Bargmann

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Today, we are going to visit Heidelberg, the city where the earliest German University was founded in 1386. On account of its romantic setting, it became one of the internationally popular institutions in the 19th century. Here, we will visit the University Library, where the manuscript we are to discuss today is housed. It is on the shelf in the Department of Manuscripts, bound in a modest working cover of the 19^th century.

History. - We shall embark on a journey of more than 500 years into the past and through some very trying times that helped shape …

Peacock Alley: Highway 41 And The Growth Of The Chenille Bedspread Industry, Ashley Callahan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the fall of 1935. a newspaper editor traveled from Oklahoma City to Atlanta to attend a baseball game, and along the way encountered a stretch of road near Dalton. Georgia known as Bedspread Boulevard. He recorded his experiences in his daily column: "Twisting through northern Georgia late Saturday afternoon, dodging cotton wagons and trying to get an eyeful of the gorgeous tints that glorified the turning trees in the mountains, I thought I saw a washing strung on a line by the roadside. Soon another flashed past. Then they followed in regular succession. . . . Is it possible …

From Court To Convent: A Silk Embroidered Sampler From Colonial Mexico, Bobbie Sumberg

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Silk appears frequently in many Mexican textiles and garments such as rebozos, skirts, and huipils or blouses. In this paper I discuss a different tradition, that of sampler embroidery in the urban style.

Yrene Escandon was reported to be a lady in waiting for Empress Carlotta, who reigned in Mexico with her husband Emperor Maximilien from 1 863-1867. During this time and before entering a convent after her service she and some friends embroidered a sampler replete with floral, religious, animal, and bird motifs. Using this remarkable piece in the collection of the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa …

"Dichotomies In Silk: Past And Future", Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The traditions of silk weaving and hand dyeing of silk cloth have been an integral part of the Japanese society and aesthetic, as exists in the Imperial Court of Japan. To this day, the Empress still cultivates the same strain of silkworm koishimaru, dating back to the Nara period (645-794).

Currently, only a fraction of the raw silk materials (reeled silk yarn and cocoons) used to produce Japanese silk textiles are actually produced by Japan. Competition from current foreign imports, textile manufacturers' indifference to the quality of raw materials, and decreasing usage of kimonos challenge the viability of labor-intensive …

The Impact Of Silk On Ottonian And Salian Manuscripts, Stephen Wagner

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In keeping with the theme of the symposium's title, "Silk Roads, Other Roads," the medieval roads that this essay will travel converge in a number of ways. Most importantly, two distinctive art forms came together for a brief period in Germany during the tenth and eleventh centuries, the period of Ottonian and Salian rule. The two products, silk and illuminated manuscripts shared important qualities. Not only were they among the most luxurious objects of the middle ages, but they also assisted bishops and rulers advance their political programs. This phenomenon developed as a result of increased interaction with a major …

Doing The Business Of Faith: The Capitalistic Dhammakaya Movement And The Spiritually-Thirsty Thai Middle Class, Rungrawee Chalermsripinyorat

Manusya, Journal of Humanities

Dhammakaya, an active, affluent and expanding Buddhist religious movement, became a focus of public attention and media scrutiny in the quarter of 1998 due to its controversial practice of dogged solicitation for donations to build a grand Maha Dhammakaya Jedi structure worth nearly one billion US$, in the face of severe economic recession. Some Buddhist monks and scholars, both orthodox and radical, attacked the movement as a distortion and commercialization of Buddhism. If the Dhammakaya movement offers a novel religious package as alleged by some critics, it is worth examining why this consumer product has gained an upsurge of popularity …

Technological Drive, The Self And The Ethical, Michael Kelly

Manusya, Journal of Humanities

I want in this essay to change the way we approach the promise of technology. In bringing out the philosophical substance packed into the highly critical diagnostic portion of Virilio's work, I focus on Virilio's observations concerning the human psychological relation to technology. I argue that a form of resentment similar to that found in Nietzsche's genealogy of morals provides the motivating factor in the push for continual and increasingly rapid technological innovation: technological drive follows from fallen man's desire to reconcile his mortality. Understanding this drive brings home the direness of the human condition that makes technological resistance so …

Malai Mongkhon: A Case Of Postmodern Thai Theatre, Kittisak Kerdarunsuksri

Manusya, Journal of Humanities

Modern stage drama was introduced into Thai theatre during the mid-1960s within the university circle and later spread to the commercial level. To make their productions more attractive and accessible to popular audiences, some theatre practitioners sought to experiment with adopting indigenous sources, either traditional stories or theatrical elements, which have been found in modern Thai theatre from time to time since the early 1970s. During the 1990s, several productions made use of traditional stories and elements to a greater degree due to many factors, such as the promotion of Thainess, the trend in Southeast Asian theatre. Most of these …

Rhythmic Units And Tonal Variation In Thai, Phanintara Teeranon

Manusya, Journal of Humanities

This study investigates whether rhythmic units influence tonal realizations in Thai connected speech. The informants are three female radio announcers, 26 and 30 years of age. Their speech was recorded prior to informing them about the study. They were then asked to read two sets of ton checklists: unchecked and checked syllables. For each tone, five tokens were selected for each following context: (1) a salient syllable in one-syllable, two-syllable, and three-syllable rhythmic units, and (2) a weak syllable in a two-syllable rhythmic unit, the first weak syllable and the second weak syllable in a three-syllable rhythmic unit. The fundamental …

The Buddhist Theravāda Coun-Cils, And The Preservation Of The Buddhist's Teachings, Visuth Busyakul

Manusya, Journal of Humanities

The traditional way of preserving the teaching of the Buddha in the old days was by commitment of every word into memory. It had to be refreshed by subsequent Sangāyanā (or Sangīti) Councils from time to time. This worked effectively for the Theravāda School, which employed Pali as the textual language, regardless of the geographical site of each individual Council. Records of the Councils are found scattered in the Tipitaka and other late Pali writing. In general, it may be that three Theravāda Councils were held in India, two in Ceylon, two in Burma, and two or there in Thailand. …

Concert Recording 2002-02-25a, Timothy Gunter

Concert Recordings & Programs

Metalla / Jan Van der Roost -- In a gentle rain / Robert W. Smith -- Symphony no. 1 "The Lord of the rings." Hobbits / Johan de Meij -- Children's march (Over the hills and far away) / Percy A. Grainger -- Platte River run / Larry MacTaggart

Concert Recording 2002-02-25, Rico Mcneela

Concert Recordings & Programs

La gazza ladra. Overture / Gioacchino Rossini -- Sinfonietta. Allegretto ; Andante-allegretto ; Moderato ; Allegretto ; Andante con moto / Leos Janacek

Concert Recording 2002-04-23, Candace Stafford, University Of Arkansas Fayetteville. Children's Choir, University Of Arkansas Fayetteville. Concert Choir, University Of Arkansas Fayetteville. Inspirational Singers

Concert Recordings & Programs

Disk 1: Rhythm of the rain / Jerry Estes -- Oh Shenandoah / arr. Ruth Elaine Schram -- Dodi li / arr. Doreen Rao -- Now is the month of maying / Thomas Morley -- Aus der tiefen ruge ich, Herr, zu dir / Johann Sebastian Bach -- I bought me a cat / Aaron Copland -- Lord, I can't turn back / arr. Robert E. Williams -- Shackles / Warren Campbell -- The blood song / Kirk Franklin -- Disk 2: The blood song (continued) -- Encore

Concert Recording 2002-02-05, Richard Heard, Mary Scott Spry

Concert Recordings & Programs

Ride on, King Jesus / Edward Boatner -- Here is One / H. F. Mells -- Sometimes I feel like a motherless child / H. T. Burleigh -- His name so sweet / Edward Boatner -- Out of the South / Florence Price -- I'll never turn back / W. C. Handy -- Minstrel man / Margaret Bonds -- The negro speaks of rivers -- Death of an old seaman / Cecil Cohen -- Grief / William Grant Still -- I've got religion / H. F. Mells -- This lil' light of mine / Hale Smith -- A child's grace …

Concert Recording 2002-02-17, Emily Breedlove, Simeon Siamakouhn, Jacob Purcell, Levi Foster, Lalita Segal, Graham Schultz, Leah Olson, Anna Heckmann

Concert Recordings & Programs

Minuet in G major ; Minuet from Little Suite ; Minuet in g minor ; Gavotte ; Allemande, Courante, Gavotte from French Suite #5 ; Organ prelude in G major ; Invention #8 in F major ; Gigue in G major from French Suite #5 / Johann Sebastian Bach

Concert Recording 2002-05-05, Ivan Kennedy, Logan Crowelle, Jeff Poole, John Tahler, Krisha Cattaneo, Savina Dimova, Roberto Loar, Carrie Tucker, Eric Smith, Lynsey Mcneice, Ross Rushin, Austin Whittaker, Lorri Daniel, Kevin Dickinson, Andrea Dunlap, Richard Hanna, Lindsey Semple, Danielle Doyle, Elizabeth Baker, Jordan Banner, John Myers, Megan Stearns, Tara Simon, Shirley Scarbrough, Katie Wilson, Tiffany Smith, Marcus Yount, Sara Keath, Susan Smith, Leah King, Evetta Hauser, Rachel Stafford, Jodie Swofford

Concert Recordings & Programs

Slow blues / William Gillock -- Russian folk song / Ludwig van Beethoven -- Surprise symphony / Franz Joseph Haydn -- Minuet / Henry Purcell -- Come and dance the polka / Willard Palmer -- Minuet in G minor / Johann Sebastian Bach -- Minuet in F -- Andante / Leopold Mozart -- Prelude op. 28 / Frederic Chopin -- Libestrum / Franz Liszt -- Waltzing triads / Willard Palmer -- Chit-chat / Dmitry Borisovich Kabalevsky -- Dance / Dmitry Borisovich Kabalevsky -- Minuet in G / Johann Sebastian Bach -- New world symphony / Anton Dvorak -- Blue boogie …

Concert Recording 2002-05-01b, Lindsay Simmons, Mary Scott Spry

Concert Recordings & Programs

Giulio Cesare. Se pieta de menon senti / George Frideric Handel -- WSix poems by Victor Heindl. Was weinst du, meine Geige? ; So fugt sich Blut' an Bluezeit ; Ich will, ein junger Lenzhusar / Ernst von Dohnanyi -- Chansons de Bilitis. La flute de Pan ; La chevelure / Claude Debussy -- L'enfant prodigue. Air de Lia -- Six Elizabethan songs. Spring ; Sleep ; Winter ; Dirge ; Diaphenia / Dominick Argento -- Il Trovatore. Tacea la notte placida / Giuseppe Verdi

Concert Recording 2002-04-11, John Boyle, Robert Mueller, Theresa Delaplain

Concert Recordings & Programs

August 17, 1986 ; Endeavor no. 4 ; Moonwalk/Moontalk (version 3) / John Boyle

The Watermark: A Journal Of The Arts - Vol. 10 - 2002-2003, University Of Massachusetts Boston

The Watermark: A Journal of the Arts (1993-ongoing)

No abstract provided.

Echoes Of The Lost Cause : Civil War Reverberations In Mississippi From 1865 To 2001, Sally Leigh Mcwhite

Electronic Theses and Dissertations

Scholars of the Lost Cause have tended to end their examinations of the Confederate commemorative movement before the 1920s. Citing a variety of indicators that range from veterans' mortality rates to national reconciliation, these historians have assumed that the Lost Cause became increasingly irrelevant in southern society. Yet, veterans organizations and their auxiliaries put a great deal of energy into constructing an historical interpretation that would vindicate their actions to future generations. This dissertation therefore extends the examination of the Lost Cause movement throughout the twentieth century. Limiting the geographical scope of the research to a state study of Mississippi …

Igbo As An Endangered Language, Chukwuma Azuonye

Africana Studies Faculty Publication Series

At first sight, the question "Is Igbo an endangered language," would appear to be grossly misplaced, since the survival of the language seems to be well guaranteed by its status both as one of the three main languages of Nigeria and one of the major languages of literature, education, and commerce in Africa. Furthermore, with its well over 25 million native speakers who live in one of the most densely populated areas of the world with an exceptionally high fertility rate and a traditional world view and culture that promote the raising of large families, it would appear that there …

Grandparent Care In The African-American Population, Jan Mutchler, Seungah Lee, Lindsey A. Baker

Gerontology Institute Publications

The purpose of this report is to provide information on African-American grandparent caregivers in the United States. Many grandparents are responsible for grandchildren who live with them in the same household. The 1996 Welfare Reform Act mandates that statistics be collected on grandparents who serve as caregivers to a grandchild. In response to this requirement, questions were developed for the 2000 Census of Population asking each adult about care for grandchildren living in the same household. We use the census information to identify grandparents who are caring for grandchildren in two different types of households: skipped-generation households, in which a …