Arts and Humanities Commons^™

Tools For A Warming Planet, Beth Ferguson, Sara Dean

IASDR Conference Series

We live on a planet in flux--warming waters and land, chaotic weather, and unknown futures. Our adaptability and ingenuity are crucial to our collective survival, and our planet’s ability to thrive. In response to this condition, innovative new tools for understanding, engaging, and responding to our current and future environment are needed. Tools for a Warming Planet is a crowd-sourced collection of 50 tools that engage in the urgency of climate change. This community archive and living lab was created by using print and digital submission tools shared by a variety of art, design, and cultural institutions. The collection represents …

Ux Design Approach To Guide Parametric Product Customization: A Case For Eyeglass Frame Design, Yibo Jiao, Heekyoung Jung, Alejandro Lozano Robledo, Brigid O’Kane

IASDR Conference Series

We propose a parametric customization process that provides step-by-step instructions for end-users to personalize product shapes by adjusting pre-set parametric values. This pictorial presents the process of structuring the parametric model of eyeglass frames in Rhino Grasshopper as a case study to demonstrate the proposed process through iterative design explorations. A user experience (UX) design approach was applied to construct user interaction workflows, screen mock-ups, and digital interfaces for a web-based service that guides the parametric design process. By simulating the user experience with high-fidelity screen mock-ups, we engaged multiple stakeholders, including product designer, service and UX designer, marketing professional, …

Pedagogy Of Experimental Design: Scientific Research Methods In Architectural Education, Assia Crawford

IASDR Conference Series

Bio-design is a growing field in architecture that focuses on integrating biological processes and systems into the design of buildings and urban environments. This approach draws inspiration from nature and seeks to create sustainable and regenerative structures that can adapt to changing environmental conditions. Architecture students are increasingly becoming involved in the design and execution of bio-design experiments, leveraging their interdisciplinary knowledge and design skills to create innovative solutions that integrate biology and design principles. This allows students to explore new avenues of research and to develop a deeper understanding of the intersection between design and the natural world. This …

Exploiting Co-Design, Game Thinking And Citizen Science In A Workshop-Like Experience For Stimulating Reflections With Teens, Chiara Ceccarini, Tommaso Zambon, Catia Prandi

IASDR Conference Series

Teenagers are constantly overwhelmed with information and activities, both considering school activities and their free time. How can we actively engage them in educational experiences to stimulate discussions and reflections about social issues? To answer this question, we conceived a workshop-like experience where we put into practice three well know methods and concepts, such as co-design, citizen science, and game thinking. The final output of the activity is a low-fidelity prototype of a mobile application, co-designed by a group of students. By taking advantage of open-ended making to engage participants in the ideation of a gamified/game-based citizen science application, we …

Domestic Infrastructure Of Food: Thoughts On Community Engagement Through Food, Furniture, And Architectural Exhibition, Leyuan Li

IASDR Conference Series

Over the past decades, the attention towards fresh food ingredients has promoted the emergence of growing vegetables in domestic spaces and sharing homemade ingredients with neighbors. The introduction of producing and exchanging food in domestic territories not only creates new forms of recreation, but also foregrounds inhabitants' anxieties concerning food security and community engagement, especially amidst global unrest during the pandemic. Within this imperative context, the pictorial essay intends to introduce food as a collective medium and a social act. By showing a series of representations and photographs of an installation project, the essay speculates on the performative and spatial …

Picturing Interactivity: Design Exploration Of A Highly Interactive Picturebook, Nicholas Vanderschantz, Claire Timpany, Kristy Wright

IASDR Conference Series

Picturebooks and interactivity are two critical features of early learning in the home and during education. Picturebooks afford opportunities for shared reading and learning through active participation by each reader. Picturebook research has explored a range of concepts, yet very little research to date synergises these investigations using a lens that will help to design transformative interactive books that positively impact shared reading. This research offers the design rationale, and process followed to develop a highly interactive printed picturebook. The design considerations employed are presented in our paper and serve as inspiration for designers developing books that may support multiple …

Improving Health Literacy Among Transgender/ Gender Non-Conforming People Using Social Media, Isha Mittal, Michelle Cordoba Kissee

Research Colloquium

Background: Health literacy has been elicited as a barrier to healthcare amongst LGBT individuals. Social media has become a popular force in transmitting health information, but often time lacks evidence-based information.

Aims/purpose: The TikTok channel GenderDefenders was created to address the lack of reliable evidence-based information for transgender and gender-non conforming (TGNC) individuals.

Methods: Data was collected from current TikTok videos that were tagged with TGNC terminology to identify gaps in knowledge and commonly asked questions. Themes were selected and educational video recordings were created using WPATH and UCSF guidelines for transgender healthcare. Some topics included what …

Knit-Mycelium Hybrids: Designing And Scaling Up With Bio Fabrication Systems Based On Mycocrete Injection In 3d Knitted Tubular Formworks, Romy Kaiser, Jane Scott, Martyn Dade-Robertson, Elise Elsacker

Textile Intersections Conference Series

This paper investigates the design potential of monolithically grown Mycelium-based Composites (MBCs) focusing on the integration of 3D knitted formworks within the fabrication process. Mycelium has gained attention as a sustainable, biodegradable, construction material with insulating, and self-healing capabilities. While there have been advancements in MBC, challenges remain in terms of structural complexity, stability, and design control at scale. Recent interest has emerged in digital fabrication methods and mould creation using textile logics and CNC knitting but fabricating mycelium within tubular soft moulds presents a lack of stability and uneven growth distribution. This, however, can be overcome by a novel …

Towards Performative Woven Textile-Form Interfaces, Alice Buso, Holly Mcquillan, Milou Voorwinden, Elvin Karana

Textile Intersections Conference Series

In this paper, we explore how textile-form thinking, i.e., the simultaneous design and construction of the textile and form, can be leveraged as a strategy to embrace and unlock the performative potential of woven interactive textiles to building towards more intuitive interactions with woven interactive textiles in our everyday. First, we designed and wove five textile-form interfaces, working as contact switches and sensors, with sensing capabilities and diverse performative qualities. Then, we investigated the action possibilities of the interfaces in an exploratory study. Grounded on the study's outcomes, we identified three design themes relative to the performativity of our woven …

Textile Intersections 2023: Exhibition Catalogue, Hanna Landin, Riikka Townsend, Bruna Petreca

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Catalogue of Textile Intersections 2023 Exhibition - Collaborations in Textiles Design Research

Textile Intersections Conference 2023: Doctoral Consortium, Katharina Bredies, Ramyah Gowrishankar, Elaine Igoe, Jussi Mikkonen, Neelam Raina

Textile Intersections Conference Series

No abstract provided.

Design Of A Hybrid Adaptive Sunshade With A Knitted Textile And Shape Memory Alloy, Valerio Lanfranco, Alessandra Luna Navaro, Mariana Popescu

Textile Intersections Conference Series

The higher complexity of adaptive façades with respect to conventional static façades hinders their applicability to the built environment. To address this, passive solutions aim at lowering the number of components while preserving the benefits of these systems. In this paper the design of a two-component passive dynamic sunshade that combines Shape Memory Alloys (SMAs) and knitted textile is presented. The novelty resides in the way the textile acts as an active member of the system, counteracting the SMA when in its martensitic (inactive) stage. The properties of the textile and design of the systems repeating movement are determined through …

Bridging Craft And Computation Through Textile-Led Form Finding, Sylwia Orynek, Briony Thomas, Alison Mckay

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Although the algorithmic nature of textile making has always been recognised and formed the basis of many engineering inventions, textile techniques that proved difficult to automate have remained in the hobby crafts category. Considering the improved flexibility of material fabrication afforded by computation, hand-based methods of thread manipulation should be analysed and disseminated for the sake of interdisciplinary innovation. However, current CAD tools do not support the dynamic and personal nature of craft practices, distorting the creative processes of ideation. In response, this research aims to bridge the gap between craft and computational approaches to form-finding through a hand-based textile …

Spatial Entanglements From South To North, Amna Qureshi, Melanie Sarantou, Heidi Pietarinen, Satu Miettinen

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Personalizing artistic expressions through textile design is an exciting way to explore innovative concepts and reflect individual or shared narratives. This study delves into the use of digital tools and natural materials to develop textile patterns and analyse their interactions with audiences. These materials take on a different appearance when viewed through or created with a digital lens. They provide a new way to experience these concepts and create an alternate reality. By using a qualitative arts-based research (ABR) approach, this research focuses on how self-created digital images on textiles can open up new possibilities and transport viewers beyond their …

Agential Digital Materials – A Fashion And Textile Perspective, Louis Patric Alderson-Bythell, Duncan Carter, Victoria Geaney, Jeanne Tan, Anne Toomey, Zowie Broach

Textile Intersections Conference Series

The Neo-Couture project investigates the intersection of haute couture principles and emerging digital technologies. In this paper, we introduce a developing Neo-Couture framework, grounded in five key areas: Humanness, Interactions, Hierarchy, Material Agency, and Bespokeness/Rarity. Drawing upon the concept of ‘intra-action’ (Barad, 2007:33) from agential realism, the study explores how humans and computational tools mutually influence each other, offering fresh insights into creative processes in fashion and textiles. Where previous research has aimed to categorise AI tools; here, tools are considered 'material agents,' emphasising the emotional and agential aspects of Human-Computer Interaction (HCI). The concept of 'intra-action' is important in …

Generative Nishijin Weaving With And For The Body, Bine Roth, Kaori Ueda

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Nishijin textiles possess a distinctive quality that is indigenous to Japan, exemplified by a diverse range of materials, weaving techniques, loom variations, and design methods. Recently the Japanese kimono industry has been facing a decline, primarily attributed to the growing influence of Western lifestyles in Japan (Cassim et al, 2017). Simultaneously, there is a global shift in textile design towards more intelligent and sustainable directions, driven by societal needs and technological advancements, including the utilisation of eco-friendly fibres and electronically enhanced textiles. The present abstract serves as an introduction to a collaborative research project in Japan & UK, focusing on …

From Boxfish To Twistbox: Developing A Woven Textile Hinge Through Bio-Inspired Design, Kathryn Walters, Veronika Kapsali

Textile Intersections Conference Series

In woven textile-form design, layers may be stacked in a pleat structure, in order to provide greater area from a limited weaving width, or to create shaping in a rectangular cloth. The layers are typically joined by weaving them together where their edges meet. However, this method of joining creates a thickened seam, and may prevent the layers from opening flat. This paper presents a woven textile hinge structure, which enables joined layers to be opened flat, without adding extra thickness, or requiring further finishing. Its utility is demonstrated through the Twistbox, an eight-layer textile-form, woven flat, which unfolds into …

Growing Patterns: Textile Design With Living Pigments, Julia Moser, Karin Fleck, Irene Posch

Textile Intersections Conference Series

A turn towards the development of sustainable textile dyes moved new pigments into the centre of attention – the pigments metabolised by pigment-producing bacteria. In this paper, we present practice-based research that aims at expanding the field of textile dyeing with living bacteria through exploring possibilities for intentional pattern design. Experiments were guided by two research questions: RQ1: How can the use and combination of different textile fibres influence and enable textile pattern development with bacteria? RQ2: How can textile surface manipulation techniques be used for pattern design with living pigments? We show a series of 40 different samples that …

Methods For Designing Woven Textile-Forms: Examples From A Pedagogical Textile Design Workshop, Juri-Apollo Drews, Holly Mcquillan, Aurélie Mosse

Textile Intersections Conference Series

When designing Woven Textile-forms, both the 3D object and the textile it is composed of need to be de-veloped simultaneously, a process requiring an adaptation of currently established methods from both textile and fashion design. This paper provides an overview of existing examples for woven form-construction approaches through the lens of fabric (non-)rectangularity. It subsequently presents the method of flattening a 3D form into a weaveable 2D format, and the alternative weaving methods of Modular Weaving, Non-binary Weaving and Multi-selvedge Weaving destined at constructing non-rectangular seamless Woven Textile-forms. It further describes a range of associated prototyping and visualisation techniques including …

Sensory Textile-Bacterial Hybrids: Textile-Bacteria Fusion To Impart Forest-Associated Scents, Paula Nerlich, Angela Sherry, Michael Deary, Ruth Morrow, Jane Scott

Textile Intersections Conference Series

This research paper presents a study on the development of living textile-bacterial hybrids, focusing on the scent produced by Streptomyces violaceruber, a bacterial species, throughout its growth phase. The objective of this study was to observe scent profiles of S. violaceruber on two different fibres, cotton, and linen, and analyse the potential impact of fibre properties on scent profile, intensity, and duration. In doing so the research suggests potential opportunities to curate living scent through textiles and the generation of sensory textile-bacterial hybrids. Interdisciplinary methods were applied to compare changes in the volatile compounds present and identify fibres and fabrication …

Development And Integration Of A Capacitive Sensor In A Pleated Woven Structure Using Tango Chirimen Production Methods, Yukihiro Tokumoto, Tomohiro Inoue, Tincuta Heinzel, Julia Cassim

Textile Intersections Conference Series

This case study is an example of ongoing collaborative initiatives between the Kyoto Prefectural Institute for Northern Industry, Kyoto, Japan working with the international network created by the annual Textiles Summer School (Cassim et al, 2017) in Kyoto initiated and directed by Julia Cassim to explore new weave and product possibilities using the weave, yarn and technology of Tango chirimen crêpe, a traditional kimono fabric from Kyoto and the Japanese Jacquard loom. Written from a technical standpoint, it centres on the challenges of interpreting and realising the concept of the lead designer / educator to create a hybrid silk fabric …

A Variable Weaving Reed For Producing 3d And Seamless Garments, Gali Cnaani, Yoav Sterman

Textile Intersections Conference Series

As a parametric medium, weaving contains different parameters. Some of these parameters may be changed, and others are fixed. The orthogonal angle between the weft and warp yarns is considered a fixed parameter. This angle is derived by the weaving reed. The reed determines the warp density and the weave width. This paper introduces the concept of a three-dimensional, variable reed. The reed affects the weaving structure by varying the density of the weft yarns across the woven fabric. Our reed is designed in a way that allows the dents to move back and forth during weaving. Changeable cardboard stencils …

From Handcraft To Digital: Transforming Spatial Crochet Into Cutting-Edge Technology, Tamar Nix, Aaron Sprecher

Textile Intersections Conference Series

In the past decade, additive manufacturing processes have exhibited immense potential by pushing the boundaries of material exploration. Involving the construction of volumetric objects through adding flat knitting machines has gained recognition as an additive manufacturing technology since they possess the unique capability to directly fabricate three-dimensional articles from yarn. Nevertheless, while flat knitting machines have made significant strides in the production of three-dimensional textiles, they still face hurdles in handling intricate structures, achieving large-scale production, and accommodating a wide range of yarns. This article proposes crochet as a feasible substitute for knitting in multi-scale applications, owing to its inherent …

Woven Variables – Investigating The Influence Of Conductive Float Arrangements On The Performance Of Woven Piezoresistive Pressure Sensors, Jingting Ma, Emmi Pouta, Ramyah Gowrishankar, Yu Xiao

Textile Intersections Conference Series

This paper investigates how conductive float arrangements, specifically the float length and float side, affect the performance of double-weave piezoresistive pressure sensors. While previous research has explored float variations in simple weaves, there is a lack of knowledge on the role of these variables in multi-layer yarn arrangements commonly used in pressure-sensitive functional weaves. We conducted a control-variants experiment by constructing two sets of double-weave piezoresistive pressure sensor samples with variations in float arrangements and evaluated their range, sensitivity, and reproducibility. We demonstrate how adjusting the float length and float side can allow the same three-layer piezoresistive sensor to perform …

The T-Shirt Feels Rough, It Can’T Be Breathable – Exploring The Perception Of Sportswear, Lars Claussen, Alex Lloyd, Daniel Ruiz, George Havenith

Textile Intersections Conference Series

To better understand the perception of sportswear, this paper presents a comprehensive case study comparing the quality of sports t-shirts made from virgin polyester, mechanically recycled polyester and mechanically recycled polyester containing ocean plastic. Based on a field trial, controlled laboratory tests, and physical evaluation, the complex process of garment perception and the challenges of testing it were explored. The features offered by the different levels of garment evaluation were highlighted. The findings from the different levels of garment evaluation led to the hypothesis that in a scenario where consumers interact with sportswear primarily by touching and trying it on, …

Seaweed Dialogues, Alberte Holmø Bojesen

Textile Intersections Conference Series

In 2023 it is a well-known fact that seaweed has become part of many theories of how to rebalance our ecosystems. However, it is not a material most people willingly or frequently interact with. Seaweed has in some ways become this abstract “saviour”, but how can we concretely and consciously use something we do not know, have not felt, smelled, or understood? The objective of Seaweed Dialogues is to breach this gap of the unknown, initiating a sensorial dialogue between human and seaweed, posing the question of what seaweed is and can be. This project has transformed into an extensive …

The Matter Of Matters, Malene Pilgaard Harsaae, Anne Louise Bang, Inger Marie Ladekarl, Lena Kramer Pedersen, Tina Bull Nielsen, Amaliea Ege

Textile Intersections Conference Series

The current fashion system, which has developed through the last decades, is characterized by producing cheap, indifferent products with planned obsolescence, devalued almost before they reach a user. There is no doubt that the fashions system has a massive negative impact on our nature and environment. To correct the current imbalance between fashion and nature, a radical paradigm shift appears to be crucial. This paper presents two cases that from different perspectives challenge and explore ontologies related to clothing with the intention of challenging current perceptions and understandings of what clothes are and thus contribute to establish an alternative fashion …

W(Hole), Matter And Its Absence In Woven Textiles, Ariane Camille Fourquier

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Weaving is a binary approach to being, in which a perpendicular entanglement of threads allows for cloth to exist. For millennia, the primacy of threads has shaped the making of woven textiles. However, a seemingly inherent element has been overlooked: negative spaces. In this reflection, such places relate to ‘holes’ or the empty spaces adjoining warp and weft. Drawing on textile theory, language, mathematics and the question of emergence, the paper critically explores the ways in which weavers understand weave structure construction. Seen as an absence, a ‘not-something’ as opposed to a ‘nothing’, how can we capture the woven hole? …

Recrafting Textile Futures: Caring And Repairing As A Way To Design, Donna Maione

Textile Intersections Conference Series

Textiles and clothing, are produced through a global supply chain that is both extractive and linear, embedded in an economic model leading to exponential growth in waste across every stage in the supply chain. Often sustainable textile solutions and innovations are coupled with economic development, making the movement from linear to circular appear as a descending spiral to waste that plunders the earth. Eco-modern solutions meant to reverse the damage caused by the mass production of clothing need a repositioning toward a longer horizon. This paper explores ways to transition toward reparative practices through craft and recrafting processes, reflection on …

Design For Disassembly – Exploring A Critical Designer’S Agency Through Adversarial Design To Produce Athleisure Clothing Within A Circular Economy, Wajiha Pervez

Textile Intersections Conference Series

This research looks at circular economy innovation in athleisure garments, a hybrid of athletic and leisure clothing. The increasing uptake of athleisure garments as everyday clothing contributes to the environmental crisis at a scale that perpetuates the unsustainability of fast fashion due to their extensive use of plastic-based textiles. While the industry might claim to shift towards sustainability and circular economy in athleisure clothing, the approach is predominantly inclined towards perpetual growth and recycling, which promotes recurring cycles of consumption and production. The research is framed by Adversarial Design theory by Carl DiSalvo which proposes that critical designers use their …