Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons^™

Una Prenda Triangular Con Plumas En La Colección Del Museo De Sitio De Pachacámac, Lourdes Chocano Mena

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Las formas habituales de los tejidos son la cuadrangular o la rectangular. Sin embargo, existen casos de tejidos como los paños trapezoidales de algodón usados como prendas de vestir (taparrabos, turbantes, pañuelos). Aquí presentamos un estudio de una prenda de forma triangular hallada en Pachacámac. Su hallazgo no recibió mayor atención, pese a su gran dimensión y la manera de cómo ha sido confeccionada, es muy particular: sus bordes están recamados de plumas anaranjadas y moradas en hileras. Explicaremos la confección de cada una de sus partes, haremos comparaciones con otras vestimentas de forma similar, y propondremos las posibles funciones …

Hidden In Plain Sight. How ‘Disturbing’ Features Found Within Two Peruvian Textile Fragments Have Turned Into A ‘Significant Guide’ For Conservation, Griet Kockelkoren, Emma Damen

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Préserver non seulement ‘l’objet matériel’, mais préserver également les valeurs intrinsèques d’un objet n’est pas un nouveau concept dans la pratique de la conservation-restauration actuelle. Le défi de cette approche consiste à regarder au-delà de ce qui est visible à l’oeil nu et à déterminer les traces de signification qui sont présentes dans l’objet. Au début d’une recherche ou une conservation, les aspects sont inconnues et parfois bien déguisés. Les traces essentielles peuvent être très difficiles à évaluer et à valoriser, en particulier avec des objets textiles ayant servi à une ou plusieurs fins pratiques au cours de leur vie …

The Pre-Columbian Textile Collection Of The German Textile Museum Krefeld, Katalin Nagy

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

The German Textile Museum in Krefeld houses a considerable collection of pre-Columbian textiles. Most originate from graves in the narrow arid area of the Peruvian coast. The original aim was to build an assemblage with the pedagogical and methodological intention of presenting a broad range of very different textile techniques in the education for the future textile workers of the industry in said region. With this intention in mind samples were gathered, and soon a few samples turned into an impressive collection in which almost all established pre-Columbian cultures and periods of the area of the Central Andes are represented. …

Life Of A Peruvian Art Collector: Guillermo Schmidt Pizarro And The Fostering Of Public Collections Of Pre-Hispanic Art In The First Half Of The 20th Century, Carolina Orsini, Anna Antonini

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

Guillermo Schmidt Pizarro was a famous collector of Peruvian origins, active in Europe and the United States beginning in the early twentieth century. He traded numerous pre-Hispanic and colonial artifacts to the most important museums of the time. The focus of this preliminary work is to trace his biography and the sales he dealt with over thirty years of activity. Thanks to provenance information, the authors have been able to sometimes “virtually build up” fragments of textiles that he scattered among diverse public and private institutions. The importance of this research is consistent with the efforts of museums to trace …

Los “Diseños Verdaderos” En Los Tejidos De Las Mujeres Cashinahuá Del Alto Purús, María Elena Del Solar

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

El presente trabajo constituye una aproximación a la cultura textil del grupo étnico cashinahuá con la finalidad de documentar las características particulares de los tejidos elaborados en las comunidades nativas ubicadas en los territorios de reserva del Parque nacional Purús. El arte del kené –que refiere a los diseños geométricos representados en tejidos, cestería y pintura corporal de ciertos grupos pertenecientes a la familia lingüística pano- es desarrollado específicamente en la textilería cashinahuá por mujeres especialistas, responsables de todos los niveles de decisión involucrados en la actividad y dueñas de los jardines de algodón, de donde obtienen la materia prima. …

Textil Y Territorio: Sobre Los Tejidos Intrincados De Poroma, Norte De Chuquisaca, Bolivia, Verónica Auza Aramayo

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

La presente propuesta pretende comprender cómo el sistema territorial andino está manifiesto en el lenguaje visual de los tejidos; específicamente en el estudio de los tejidos de Poroma, Norte de Chuquisaca, Bolivia. Cultura andina caracterizada por una larga historia que evoca diversos movimientos y procesos multiétnicos, que estableció, en un valle de características tórridas, una auto denominación cultural que la designa como «llameros», vale decir, gente que desde las altas punas antiguamente y hasta la década de 1980 se desplazaba con sus caravanas de llamas, marcando un mercado de bienes a lo largo de la cordillera. Esta forma de nombrarse …

Middle Horizon Textiles From Chimu Capac, Supe Valley, Peru, Amy Oakland

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

This article presents an overview of the textiles Max Uhle collected between November 4 and December 3, 1904 in the Middle Horizon cemetery at Chimu Capac in the Supe Valley, Peru. The total collection of objects numbers over 830 with 278 textiles including woven fragments, complete garments, woven and painted pouches, and over 155 painted textiles. The article discusses a sample of Chimu Capac textiles included in Uhle’s Supe field Notebook 67, in his hand-written Supe report, and textiles listed in the Supe Berkeley catalog. The Chimu Capac textiles compare with collections of Middle Horizon funerary objects made in coastal …

La Cestería De Los Cazadores-Recolectores, Procedente De La Cueva De La Candelaria, Torreón, Coahuila, México, Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela, Alejandra Quintanar Isaías, Ana Jaramillo Pérez

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

En 1953 se realiza la primera exploración arqueológica al Norte de la República Mexicana por parte del Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH), que conformó un grupo interdisciplinario para explorar la Cueva de la Candelaria, ubicada en el Valle de las Delicias en el estado de Coahuila. Esta cueva es una de las más importantes de México, dónde se logró recuperar -gracias a su característica de cueva seca- un vasto patrimonio arqueológico de origen orgánico que nos permite conocer mejor a los grupos de cazadores-recolectores que habitaron la región. Dentro de la gran diversidad de objetos se encontraron un …

Colecciones Textiles Etnográficas Del Gran Chaco Sudamericano Del Museo Etnográfico “J. B. Ambrosetti” Y El Estudio De Su Materialidad: Un Desafío A La Mirada Occidental Sobre Los Otros No-Occidentales, Mariana Alfonsina Elías

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

El Museo Etnográfico “J. B. Ambrosetti” (Facultad de Filosofía y Letras, Universidad de Buenos Aires) guarda en su acervo un conjunto amplio, diverso y poco conocido de producciones textiles de distintos pueblos originarios del Gran Chaco Sudamericano. Las mismas han ingresado a la institución entre fines del siglo XIX y las primeras cuatro décadas del siglo XX. El estudio que vengo desarrollando de varios aspectos de la materialidad de los objetos textiles que conforman dichas colecciones- materia prima, técnicas/ estructuras textiles, diseños, colores, evidencias de uso, etc.- ha implicado la necesaria problematización de nuestra mirada occidental y de nuestras representaciones …

A Highland Textile Tradition From The Far South Of Peru During The Period Of Inka Domination, Penelope Dransart

PreColumbian Textile Conference VIII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VIII (2019)

A group of garments and textile fragments is identified in this article as belonging to a particular textile tradition, with characteristics indicating an affiliation to communities in the highlands of the South-Central Andes. Different categories of gender-specific garments are presented. The characteristics include an all-camelid construction, warp-patterned stripes in blocks of alternating colours, the use of a discontinuous warp and transposed-warp weave. Pattern motifs include eight-pointed stars, double-headed serpents and figures based on rhombuses. Distinctive geometric designs are analysed, including ‘butterfly’ motifs and narrow stripes, consisting of paired light- and dark-coloured right-angled triangles joined to make stacks of larger isosceles …

The Precolumbian Textiles In The Roemer- And Pelizaeus-Museum Hildesheim, Germany, Lena Bjerregaard

Zea E-Books Collection

Along the coast of Peru is one of the driest deserts in the world. Here, under the sand, the ancient Peruvians buried their dead wrapped in gorgeous textiles. As organic material keeps almost forever when stored without humidity, light and oxygen, many of the mummies excavated in the last hundred years are in excellent conditions. And so are the textiles wrapped around them. Their clear colors are still dazzling and the textile fibers in good condition. Textiles were highly valued objects in ancient Peru – used for expressing status and diverse messages in these non-literate but highly organized and very …

Woven By The Grandmothers: The Development Of The National Museum Of The American Indian Throughout The 1990s, Lucy Winokur

Scripps Senior Theses

In 1994, the National Museum of the American Indian (NMAI) opened the George Gustav Heye Center in New York City, the first of what would be three campuses. Ten years later, in 2004, the NMAI opened its main campus in Washington, D.C., already having cemented their place as leaders in a movement to center indigenous voices within museums housing indigenous material culture. By examining the history of the NMAI from the first acquisition of George Gustav Heye to its earliest approaches to exhibition design and collections management policy in the 1990s, it is possible to track the development of the …

Constraint And Control, Patricia Ayres

Theses and Dissertations

I have long considered themes of the body. Drawing on my knowledge as a fashion designer, I bring materials and hardware from the fashion industry into my artwork transforming and rendering them non-functional. My sculptures relate to stories of isolation, separation, and confinement. The following pages will analyze how the United States penal system controls, constrains and restricts the body through physical and psychological wounds. Furthermore, they will examine how the Catholic Church controls people’s minds and behavior through a ritualistic belief system.

Precolumbian Textile Conference Vii / Jornadas De Textiles Precolombinos Vii, Lena Bjerregaard, Ann H. Peters

Zea E-Books Collection

Contents:

Introduction — Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters

Mexico

1. Mesoamerican Archaeological Textiles: An Overview of Materials, Techniques, and Contexts — Laura Filloy Nadal

2. Urdimbres enlazadas de Mesoamérica. Textil de la Cueva del Gallo, Morelos, México — Patricia Ochoa Castillo & Rosa Lorena Román Torres •

3. Los textiles procedentes del actual estado de Guerrero, México: una revisión a su estudio desde la perspectiva arqueológica y etnohistórica — Elizabeth Jiménez García

4. Classic Textiles from Cueva del Lazo (Chiapas, Mexico). Archaeological context and conservation issues — Davide Domenici & Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela

5. Textiles y otros materiales arqueológicos …

Classic Textiles From Cueva Del Lazo (Chiapas, Mexico): Archaeological Context And Conservation Issues, Davide Domenici, Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

The excavation of Cueva del Lazo, a cave on the cliffs of the Río La Venta River canyon in the Zoque region of Western Chiapas (Mexico), led to the discovery of a complex Late Classic post-sacrificial context where eleven children were buried wrapped in textile bundles. The environmental conditions of the dry cave allowed an extraordinary preservation of perishable materials including textiles, cordages, botanical remains, etc. In the first part of the paper we provide a brief introduction to the archaeology of the Selva El Ocote, as well as a description and interpretation of the Cueva del Lazo archaeological context. …

Trajes De Poder. Los Conjuntos Chimú Con Borlas, Victòria Solanilla

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

A raíz de la puesta en marcha del Museo de Culturas del Mundo (MCM) de Barcelona, inaugurado en febrero de 2015, y conocedores de que entre las piezas procedentes de América precolombina había una camisa con borlas Chimú perteneciente a la Colección Folch, creímos que sería interesante estudiarla. Por otro lado, en una reunión que se realizó en Basilea en marzo de 2014, con motivo de la puesta al día del grupo que formamos los integrantes del proyecto Corpus Antiquitatum Americanensium perteneciente a la Unión Académica Internacional, en la que participaron conservadores de las secciones de América de los principales …

Urdimbres Enlazadas De Mesoamérica. Textil De La Cueva Del Gallo, Morelos, México, Patricia Ochoa Castillo, Rosa Lorena Román Torres

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

Los ejemplos de textiles arqueológicos que se encuentran en la República mexicana son muy escasos debido entre otras cosas al suelo húmedo. Los hallazgos de textiles arqueológicos son considerados casi milagros de la arqueología y de la conservación, tal es el caso de la colección de textiles de la Cueva del Gallo, en Ticumán Morelos, México. El objeto de este trabajo es la contextualización y análisis textil de un lienzo completo encontrado en esta cueva en 1991 elaborado con urdimbres enlazadas, teñido con azul índigo o añil y grana cochinilla, que dio inicio al Proyecto Arqueológico de Ticumán (PAT) en …

Mesoamerican Archaeological Textiles: An Overview Of Materials, Techniques, And Contexts, Laura Filloy Nadal

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

In Mesoamerica, unlike the Andean area, there are few instances when climatic conditions allow the preservation of the organic raw materials constituting ancient fabrics. Examples of such textiles conserved in Mexican museums are quite limited, thus even the tiniest fragments recovered in archaeological contexts greatly augment our understanding of ancient weaving technologies and their use in Mesoamerican societies. Most of the surviving fabrics come from dry caves in northern Mexico, but in recent days the exploration of relatively inaccessible rock shelters in southern Mexico has led to the recovery of additional textiles from early times that are associated with funerary …

Archaeological Textiles Of Sechín Bajo – A Formative Site Of The North Coast Of Peru: Preliminarily Results, Katalin Nagy

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

In spring 2014, I took part in an archaeological project carried out by a German-Peruvian team of archeologists in the Sechín Valley, next to the Valley of Casma, on the North Coast of Peru. The project started more than ten years ago and has been taking place parallel to some other important archaeological projects on the North Coast. Its aim was to unearth the temple mounds and to reconstruct the parts of the various phases. The earliest layers date back to the Pre-Ceramic Period. During the wall construction of the temple, many textile fabrics such as nets and ropes were …

Andean Textile Traditions: Material Knowledge And Culture, Part 1, Elena Phipps

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

The development of rich and complex Andean textile traditions spanned millennia, in concert with the development of cultures that utilized textiles as a primary form of expression and communication. Understanding the importance of textiles in the Andean world, we can examine elements of their genesis and look at the trajectory from the earliest developments of fiber- made items to the extraordinarily complex and specific processes of textile making, such as warp-wrapping and discontinuous warp and weft weaving. These processes are examined in the context of the relationship between textiles and the sacred, highlighting the significance and agency of cloth in …

Textiles Y Otros Materiales Arqueológicos Del Valle De Tehuacán, México, En Los Museos Reales De Arte E Historia (Mrah), Bruselas, Julia Montoya

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

En este trabajo se presenta una colección de materiales arqueológicos que provienen de dos cuevas no localizadas del Valle de Tehuacán, estado de Puebla, México. Los materiales datan del período posclásico (1250-1521) y pertenecen a las culturas mixteca y azteca. La colección se conserva en los Museos Reales de Arte e Historia, MRAH, de Bruselas, Bélgica. Incluye entre otros, objetos de madera con mosaico, cerámica, restos humanos, esteras, plantas, textiles de algodón, sandalias y ofrendas de papel amate, entre las cuales, tres fueron teñidas con la técnica de reserva conocida como plangi. Hasta la fecha la colección no ha sido …

Introduction Into The History Of The Textile Collection At The Ethnological Museum Berlin, Beatrix Hoffmann

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

When the Ethnological Museum at Berlin was founded, it counted already with several hundred pieces from South America. Only a minor part them belonged to pre-Columbian cultures from the Andes. While most of these pieces were ceramics almost no ancient fabrics could be found in the collection. This reflected the collector’s interests focusing on objects made of ceramic, stone or metal and on human remains. Consequently, the first pieces of fabric reached the museum at Berlin as parts of mummy cloths. This did not change until 1879, when the collection of Reiss and Stübel was acquired for the museum. It …

The Curious Case Of Sir Henry Wellcome’S Wooden Statuette Clad In Tie-Dyed Wari Cloth, Penelope Dransart

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

A wooden statuette clad in small-scale garments made from a Wari style tie-dyed textile joined the collections of the City of Liverpool Public Museum (now National Museums Liverpool) in 1951 along with other items distributed by the trustees of the Wellcome Historical Medical Museum. This article discusses Wari style tie-dyed tunics as part of an ensemble of garments. It explores the character of the Wari period textile (c. AD 600-1000) used for dressing the statuette, its similarity to textiles in the Fowler Museum at the University of California, Los Angeles and the Museo Nacional de Arqueología, Antropología e Historia del …

Analysis Of Paracas Fibre Material From The Gothenburg Collection, Anna Javér

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

Gothenburg City has in its collection, 2000-year-old textiles from the Paracas peninsula in Peru. After the exhibition ”A Stolen World” at the National Museums of World Culture in 2008, Peru asked for a repatriation of the collection. Following negotiations between the City of Gothenburg and the Ministry of Culture in Peru it was decided that the ownership of the textiles would be returned to Peru. In June 2014, the first four textiles were returned to the National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology, and History (MNAAHP) in Lima as a start of the repatriation. This was also the beginning of a collaboration …

Pre-Columbian Textile Structures At Castillo De Huarmey, Peru, Aleksandra Laszczka, Jeffrey C. Splitstoser, Miłosz Giersz

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

Systematic excavations at the Castillo de Huarmey archaeological site, located on the North Coast of Peru, enabled researchers to collect an immense number of fabrics. During the first season of textile investigations, carried out in July of 2014 by American and Polish researchers, 724 objects were examined, including textile fragments, yarns, and cordage. A general description of the basic structures indicates a variety of weaving techniques. Although the collection consists mainly of plain weave of all kinds, new structures such as three-dimensional cross-knit looping and feather-mosaic work were recognized, none of which were encountered among textiles collected from the surface …

Headdress Forms In The Paracas Necrópolis Mortuary Tradition, Ann H. Peters

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

The importance of headdress is indicated by its careful arrangement on the head of the recently deceased, display on the apex of a mortuary bundle, and prominent depiction in contemporary artifacts. In woven, embroidered or painted imagery, headdress elements include featherwork, the body of a bird or mammal, draped cloth or intertwined bands, often depicted as serpents. Due to their position above the human body, the headdresses are the most consistently preserved textile artifacts in tombs of the Paracas Necropolis mortuary tradition. Some elements appear only with men, others are found with both men and women and certain headcloths are …

Lambayeque Textile Iconography And Its Continuity In Chimu And Inca Cultures, And Its Link To Modern Ecuadorian Pujilí Corpus Christi Celebrations, Yvonne Fleitman,, Alisa Baginski

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

This paper traces the continuity of the iconography and rituals expressed in the textiles of the Late Intermediate Period (900-1470 CE) of the North Coast of Peru. We suggest a new identification for the Principal Deity of the Lambayeque culture. We propose that this image and its attributes continued to be displayed in ceremonial costumes of the later Chimu culture; that the rituals continued into the Inca Period; through the Colonial evangelization of the Americas; and even into contemporary Corpus Christi processions in Ecuador.

Iconografía textil Lambayeque y su continuidad en las culturas Chimu y Inca, y su vinculación con …

La Imagen Divina Y El Simbolismo Religioso En Textiles Del Antiguo Perú, Uwe Carlson

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

Una gran parte de los antiguos textiles peruanos muestra imágenes divinas en muchas variaciones. Estos se complementan con el simbolismo religioso de la fertilidad, que se presenta en tres alternativas diferentes y muchas variaciones. Algunas culturas también utilizaron imágenes emblemáticas divinas. En la costa del ave marina tenía un estatus casi divino, que se expresa en muchos tejidos. Textiles de las culturas del norte y del sur se acogieron al contenido de las formas de Chavín, pero encontraron sus propias variaciones. Murales, relieves, joyas y otros objetos que contienen la misma información que los textiles. La sociedad del antiguo Perú …

The Arizona Openwork (Tonto) Shirt Project, Carol James

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

In 1923 a pair of hikers came across a series of objects in a cave near the Salt River in Arizona. Among the objects was an elaborate sprang shirt, later given to the Arizona State Museum where it remains to this date. The cotton yarn in the shirt was subjected to Carbon Dating and assigned a probable origin date of the 12th century. In order to better understand the shirt, a replica was made in early 2015. Diverse technical challenges included hand spinning an appropriate cotton yarn, mapping the pattern, accurately copying the irregularities, and creating the neckline. The project …

La Conservación De Dos Fardos Funerarios Provenientes De Contextos Arqueológicos: El Caso De La Cueva Del Lazo, Ocozocoautla, Chiapas Y La Cueva De La Candelaria, Torreón, Coahuila, México, Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

El presente artículo se enfoca en la conservación de dos fardos funerarios localizados en diferentes cuevas dentro de la República Mexicana que, a pesar de encontrarse en polos opuestos, se conservaron gracias a las condiciones de humedad y temperatura estables dentro de un contexto seco. Lamentablemente, en ambos casos, no existe un registro minucioso del contexto (mediciones de humedad, temperatura, análisis de sedimentos, entre otros), así como de las condiciones en las que estos se encontraban (elementos asociados –restos óseos, ornamentos, posición, etc) que permitan realizar una intervención lo más fehaciente posible. Estos ingresan a la CNCPC1 completamente colapsados, después …