Food Studies Commons^™

An Urban Vegetable Garden: A Blooming For The Food Memory Of The Future, Cynthia Luderer

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This work concerns an urban vegetable garden beyond 200 plots in Famalicão (northern Portugal) and aims to check out mnemic narratives circulating there linked to gastronomy and technical agricultural resources that have been used in the past. This research has been developed since last December/2022 and will check this environment for four seasons of the year. Its methodology is based on an ethnographic exercise, using flanerie dynamics and the application of interviews with open-ended questions. This analysis is supported by the Anthropology of Food, the concept of Collective Memory, by Halbwachs, and the Semiotics of Culture, by Iuri Lotman, approaching …

Collective Memory, Culinary Continuity, And Solemn Repasts: Lagana, Itria And The History Of Pasta In Southern Italy, Anthony F. Buccini

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Though today it is communis opinio that the Arabs introduced pasta, especially dried pasta, to Sicily and from there it spread to the continent, there is no evidence to support this theory (Buccini 2013, 2015b, 2024). There is, however, ample evidence both textual and linguistic that this food has been known in southern Italy at least since classical times. Here I argue that an examination of holiday foods, especially those of what I call “solemn holidays,” provides further evidence that pasta has been an integral part of southern Italian cuisine for a very long time.

“Praying And Eating”: The Preservation Of Jewish Food Traditions In The Wake Of Brexit Trauma, Angela Hanratty

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This research examines the impact that Brexit, the Northern Ireland Protocol, and the Windsor Framework have had on the food traditions of the Jewish population of Ireland, through focusing on the lived experience of the Jewish communities of Belfast and Dublin and their collective memory. While there has been much debate on the lasting effect of the UK leaving the EU on industry and agriculture, the deleterious impact on the kosher observant in Ireland has been less documented, with specific challenges for the preservation of food traditions in a community with a history “full of praying and eating” (Maurice Cohen, …

Between Memory And History: Irish Pubs As Sites Of Memory And Invention, Perry Share, Moonyoung Hong

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The pub has been at the centre of Irish culture and identity for at least two centuries, has become a pillar of the Irish tourism “product,” and an export commodity as thousands of themed “Irish pubs” have been established across the world in the last number of decades, supplementing existing establishments that have served the global Irish community. This paper draws on key themes from the diverse material in our upcoming academic volume on the Irish pub, to be published by Cork University Press, later in 2024. The book brings together contributions from scholars of history, sociology, design, literature, culinary …

The Memory Of A Victory: The Spanish-American War Through Cocktail Names, “War Drinks” And The Art Of Mixing, Ilaria Berti

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

The relevance of examining late nineteenth-century Cuba depends from its being a colony under two powers, one European and one extra-European: the formal Spanish empire that had the political power and the informal supremacy of the US economic influence. However, within the framework of of enlarging its authority in the American region, the US perceived Cuba as a strategic island that was under the Spanish dominion. For the US expansionistic aims, Cuba has, in fact, been defined as a laboratory for the US empire (Pérez 2008) Through the analysis of newspapers’ articles, images published in the satirical magazine The Puck, …

Forbidden Fruit: Mary Cassatt’S Mural Of “Modern Woman” At The World’S Columbian Exposition, Chicago 1893, Tricia Cusack

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This paper considers a large mural of “The Modern Woman” painted in France by the American artist Mary Cassatt for the Woman’s Building at the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. It focuses in particular on the large central panel of the mural titled Young Women Plucking the Fruits of Knowledge or Science that depicts women and girls apple-picking. Cassatt’s mural drew on various traditions and myths. Apple harvesting was a common sight in America. Cassatt’s title though points to the story of Eve and forbidden fruit, in which Eve seeks knowledge, but is severely punished for it. Cassatt …

Cooking In Times Of Oppression, Dorota Koczanowicz

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

In 2017, Marije Vogelzang's interactive performance at the Museum of Rotterdam, 'Black Confectti', was designed to enable the experience of a difficult wartime past. Using authentic recipes from the war press, she prepared dishes based on the creativity of the crisis. In the face of starvation and the struggle for life, the selflessness of creative action in the kitchen and the effort of documentation in the form of recipes from the past and culinary fantasies from the past proved to be a helpful tool for surviving the most oppressive situation. The effectiveness of this strategy is clearly demonstrated not only …

Bittersweet Spirits: Transnational Food Memory And The Persistent Production Of Non-Mainstream Alcohol In Trinidad, Shrinagar Indra Francis

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

Whether we perceive the process of food leaving its mark on our culture as a function of genetic or collective memory, or a combination, informs the ways we interrogate the continued existence of these foods and their practices across time and landscapes. Within the postcolonial context, the process of re-embodiment is an inherently bittersweet one in that it comes as a consequence of loss and rupture and is motivated by a desire to be remade. Prior to colonialism, the production of alcohol was a profound aspect of the lives of the many peoples of West and West-Central Africa. Descendants of …

Memories Of Recipes In Twentieth-Century Irish Cookbooks, Gary Thompson

Dublin Gastronomy Symposium

This paper analyses and categorises the ways in which authors and their publishers have chosen to include the author’s culinary, food and personal memories within the texts of twenty twentieth century Irish Cookbooks. Cookbooks are subjects of culinary nostalgia with the reading of a recipe capable of triggering in the reader a memory of a meal enjoyed, a dish cooked in times past by a loved one, or recollections of the disgust felt for a food hated in childhood. Independent from the reader, the culinary memories of the author can be captured at the time of publication in the text …

Bridging The Gap: Determinants Of Consumers’ Willingness To Pay For Environmentally Friendly Packages Of Leafy Greens, Carissa Dieli, Anushree Priyadarshini, Robert Ludgate, Lorraine Foley

Articles

Government and corporate policies have mandated a reduction in plastic packaging to combat issues of waste and climate change. This move towards sustainable packaging alternatives in the fresh food sector will increase costs for consumers. Much of the present research finds consumers are willing to pay more for sustainability, but their willingness to pay (WTP) does not align with real-world purchases, representing an attitude–behaviour gap. To combat this gap, it is posited that consumers’ current purchasing- and sustainability-related behaviours will meaningfully correlate with their WTP and bridge the attitude–behaviour gap. This research used an online survey (n = 476) to …

Harnessing Ireland’S Food Heritage – The Role Of The Artisan Food Producer In Ireland’S Food Tourism Offering, Margaret Connolly, Rebecca O'Flynn

European Journal of Food Drink and Society

This research paper examines the role of the artisan food producer, not just as an entrepreneur and service provider but with a focus on how they contribute to the preservation of Ireland’s food culture and heritage. Using a qualitative methodology and in keeping with a phenomenological approach, in-depth interviews were conducted with a purposeful sample of ten artisan food producers from different parts of Ireland. A thematic analysis of the responses was carried out, with a desire to let the voice of the artisans themselves tell their story. The research shows that through the conservation and use of traditional ingredients, …

Exploring The Significance Of The Traditional Chef’S Uniform In Making Sense Of Professionalism In Culinary Arts Using Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis, Orla Mc Connell

European Journal of Food Drink and Society

Previous studies have found that professionalism is an important success factor for chefs. Yet, research on what professionalism “means” to chefs, and how they “make sense” of it, is currently underexplored. While there is some evidence of the significance of the traditional chef’s uniform in professional identity formation, it also needs further consideration. Culinary arts lecturers and chefs have already contributed to these discussions, but the student voice remains largely unknown. Alongside this, there is no prior research specifically on professionalism in culinary arts in Ireland. Therefore, a research gap emerged, which this paper intends to address. Using interpretative phenomenological …

The Literary Gestalt Of The Restaurant Review, Anke Klitzing

European Journal of Food Drink and Society

The restaurant review is a quintessential form of gastronomic writing, but it has rarely been studied in terms of its literary form. This paper investigates the literary gestalt of restaurant reviews through a gastrocritical reading of two reviews by the Irish restaurant critic Helen Lucy Burke. It concludes that restaurant reviews typically include mimesis and evocative descriptions, a meal plot, inherent tension due to the performance character of the restaurant meal and incorporation anxiety, and a combination of phenomenological and ethnographic reporting. These literary features serve to make reviews an accurate and reliable account of the reviewer’s immersive experience, to …

Conferring Prestige Within Irish Diplomatic Dining: Éamon De Valera At Dublin Castle, 1934-1940, Elaine Mahon

Articles

This article explores the use of the diplomatic meal to confer prestige within Irish international relations between 1934 and 1940 when Éamon de Valera was both President of the Executive Council of the Irish Free State and Minister for External Affairs. It examines how state hospitality evolved under de Valera’s leadership and how de Valera used the meal to confer varying levels of prestige, indicative of rank, status and provenance, on his guests of honour at Dublin Castle. The results would lay the foundation for further developments in state protocols for entertaining important visitors in preparation for Ireland’s growing international …

‘The Food Of The Home’ An Exploration Of Place And Practice Of Ordinary Women In Dublin City 1950-2000 On Irish Cuisine, Roann Byrne

Dissertations

Before the rise of restaurants and the accessibility of dining out, the home was where food engagement took place. In the recent surge of Irish Michelin restaurants, and our growing reputation for food culture, one element has been overlooked. Long before the great chefs and level of fine dining we have now – the heart of Irish food culture lay in the home. In the ongoing debate of what Irish cuisine is, we haven’t thought to look inwards, to the routes of our food engagement. This thesis seeks to understand the places, practices and engagement of ordinary women and food …

Family Dining: Food And Drink In The Sopranos – A Gastrocritical Approach, Lisa Davies

Dissertations

This thesis uses gastrocriticism to explore food and drink in the 86 episodes of the long-form narrative HBO television series The Sopranos. Gastrocriticism is an emerging branch of literary criticism that draws on scholarship from a range of disciplines such as sociology, anthropology and cultural studies. A deeper understanding of the series was gained by using a structured framework of enquiry to explore narrative, setting, characterisation and genre through the lens of food and foodways. The Sopranos is a story of an Italian-American crime family and food is abundant in the series and bound up with the identity of …

Nunneries And Pâtisseries: Tourists’ Gastronomic Experiences At Sacred Sites, Diolinda Ramírez-Gutiérrez

International Journal of Religious Tourism and Pilgrimage

This work traces the experiences spontaneously expressed by travellers who stop at convents throughout Spain to admire their cultural heritage and also to taste their typical pastries. The aim of this study is to analyse the dialectical relationship between the sacred and the profane in heritage and its tourism context, through content analysis and the narrative generated in a social network for tourists. The initial hypothesis is based on possible cultural differences in the characterisation of the experience of visiting these sacred spaces where pastries have been consumed and in the existence of a differentiated pattern association between different levels: …

An Investigative Analysis On Female Presence And Highly Ranked Positions In Professional Kitchens In Ireland, Roann Byrne

Dissertations

This study aims to gain an understanding of the state of the cheffing industry currently, to analyse whether there is a lack of women within the industry particularly in positions of high power. This research intends to understand the causes for the lack and showcase possible solutions and recommendations for this. It exists as a role of advocacy; hoping to inspire more people into the career of cheffing, and to retain women within it. It aspires to challenge and thus forth change the narratives that have pushed many people, particularly women, out of this work for so long. This research …

Market Segmentation Of Wine In Ireland: Are We Fostering A Desirable Consumption Culture?, Enea Bent

Dissertations

The aim of this research is to evaluate the wine sector in Ireland and its impact on the wine consumption culture that is being promoted here as a result. With supermarkets leading in terms of sales, this study evaluates the product offering of the various types of retailers and the attainability of the same to different demographics of consumer. A high level of government intervention in the industry is highlighted throughout the study, the intention and subsequent successes and failures are examined. A comparison to the rest of Europe and the United Kingdom is carried out to understand Ireland’s position …

Exploring Factors Associated With The Eating Behaviours And Influences On Food Choice In Irish Teens, Aisling Daly

Doctoral

Aim The aim of this research was to understand the eating behaviour traits and food choice motivations of Irish teens, and to investigate the social, psychological, and attitudinal determinants of these eating behaviour traits and influences on food choice.

Methods Mixed methods were used in this research, using quantitative analysis of data from the National Teens’ Food Survey II (NTFSII), a cross-sectional study of teens aged 13-18 years old (N=428). Data predominantly came from the TFEQ-r18 and VARSEEK tools for eating behaviour traits, and the FCQ tool for food choice motivations, as well as socio-demographics, anthropometrics, behaviour/attitudes and dietary intakes. …

Impact Of Dry, Particle-Size Fractionation On Protein And Amino Acid Content Of Three Seaweed Species, Laura Healy, Xianglu Zhu, Milica Pojic, Mahesa Poojary, James Curtin, Uma Tiwari, Carl Sullivan, Brijesh K. Tiwari

Articles

Market demand for “clean and green” food products is increasing, and so there is growing opportunity for the seaweed aquaculture industry to take a position as a key food producer in this area. In this study, in order to investigate the impact of dry fractionation on seaweed protein qualities, dried and milled seaweed powder from three seaweed species was sieved into 6 fractions (F1 to F6) of different particle size from >710 μm toμm. True protein, total protein and amino acid profiles were analyzed to evaluate the protein content and quality of three brown seaweed species commercially harvested in Ireland; …

Cook Like A Boss Online: An Adapted Intervention During The Covid-19 Pandemic That Effectively Improved Children’S Perceived Cooking Competence, Movement Competence And Wellbeing, Lynsey Hollywood, Johann Issartel, David Gaul, Amanda Mccloat, Elaine Mooney, Clare Elizabeth Collins, Fiona Lavelle

Articles

The COVID-19 pandemic has further exacerbated physical inactivity, poor dietary intake and reduced mental wellbeing, contributing factors to non-communicable diseases in children. Cooking interventions are proposed as having a positive influence on children’s diet quality. Motor skills have been highlighted as essential for performance of cooking skills, and this movement may contribute to wellbeing. Additionally, perceived competence is a motivator for behaviour performance and thus important for understanding intervention effectiveness. Therefore, this research aimed to assess the effectiveness of an adapted virtual theory-based cooking intervention on perceived cooking competence, perceived movement competence and wellbeing.

From Alsace To America: The Development And Migration Of Ashkenazi Jewish Cuisine From Its Origins In Eastern France, Angela Hanratty

Dissertations

This research examines the historical development of a distinctly Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine from its roots in the Alsace region of France, through the Jewish settlements in Eastern Europe, and the mass immigration to America in the 19th and 20th centuries. The aim of the research was to come to an understanding of how global perception of what is considered to be quintessentially Jewish food (as evidenced in American Jewish delicatessens, Jewish homes, and in popular culture) has been shaped by developments in Alsace. Long standing views were held that Ashkenazi food developed in Eastern Europe, specifically Poland and the former …

Exploring Food Traditions Within The Four Quarter Days Of The Irish Calendar Year, Caitríona Nic Philibín

Dissertations

This study explores food traditions in the four quarter days of the Irish calendar year. Imbolg or St. Brigid’s Day, Bealtaine, Lughnasa and Samhain mark significant moments in the agricultural calendar. Food traditions, customs and practices relating to these days are recorded in the abundant resources of the collections in the Folklore Department, University College Dublin. However, to date, with few exceptions, little food specific research has been carried out on these collections. This thesis aims to begin to fill that gap whilst highlighting many opportunities for further research. Throughout this process we witness the illumination of a rich food …

Towards New Strategies For Improving The Transfer Of Innovation Between University And The Food Industry, Gwilym A. Williams

Level 3

All commerce relies on effective strategies for completing a deal, but conducting the transaction at the university-industry interface with an intangible asset represented by research results remains a difficult proposition. Beyond differences of mission and culture, it is usually assumed that the established language of technology transfer can permit productive communication by a university across a wide diversity of industries. However, the experience of the authors indicates that an appreciation of aspects such as subtleties of language, conflicting goals, and market understanding must also be brought to bear in successfully completing a transaction. Information asymmetry remains a key challenge to …

Adopting A Systematic Approach To Tasting Cider Within The Irish Craft Cider Industry, Richie Brady

Dissertations

Craft cider-makers produce less than 1% of Irish cider which is a significantly smaller percentage than craft producers in other beverage markets. This study contextualises Irish cider’s importance by exploring its rich history in Gaelic and Georgian Ireland. It then examines how that importance is not reflected in today’s market and posits that introducing a new systematic approach to tasting will enable cider to be viewed beyond what many see as a cheap, simple summer drink. A systematic approach to tasting is a structured and repeatable method of describing taste using a lexicon of agreed words. Unlike other drinks, such …

New Beginnings In Reading (Irish) Literature: A Gastrocritical Look At George Moore's 'Home Sickness' And Colm Toibin's Brooklyn, Anke Klitzing

Conference papers

This chapter showcases gastrocriticism as a new beginning in literary theory and criticism, offering new readings of (Irish) literature. Gastrocriticism is an emerging form of literary criticism focused on human relationships with each other and to the natural world through food. It is informed by the concepts and insights of gastronomical scholarship and Food Studies and pays particular attention to the role food and foodways play in literary writing. The texts investigated here explore new beginnings themselves. In George Moore’s ‘Homesickness’ (1903), an emigrant on a return visit from America must decide between a farmer’s life in Ireland and his …

Food In Tourism And The Role Of The Artisan Food Producer In Ireland: A Phenomenological Study, Rebecca O'Flynn

Dissertations

This research study examines the role that the artisan food producer plays, as a food tourism provider, in food in tourism in Ireland. With the increasing convergence of food and tourism, food in tourism has become both a lever for economic prosperity as well as a draw for visitors who are seeking authentic food experiences that connect them to people, place and culture. Sitting between production and consumption, artisan food producers, as purveyors of handcrafted foods, are uniquely placed to meet visitors’ expectations and help achieve these economic objectives. Considering then, the important role they play, and look set to …

Food Edu-Care In The Primary Curriculum: A Collaborative Case Study In An Inner City Deis Gaelscoil, Caroline Mcgowan

Theses, Doctoral

This applied case study explored the role of food education and its potential to nurture the lives of children who may experience disadvantage socially, culturally and economically. The research concedes at the outset that the role of ‘food’ in education is complex, that schools do not deal with curriculum matters alone but also with social justice policy issues, and that school-based ‘food poverty’ policy interventions to date are broadly motivated by nutritional concerns.

The research was informed by a critical pedagogy perspective using a collaborative enquiry design focused on individual and collective agency at the school level. Multiple theoretical and …

From The Dark Margins To The Spotlight: The Evolution Of Gastronomy And Food Studies In Ireland, Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire

Books/Book Chapters

For many years, food was seen as too quotidian and belonging to the domestic sphere, and therefore to women, which excluded it from any serious study or consideration in academia. This chapter tracks the evolution of gastronomy and food studies in Ireland. It charts the development of gastronomy as a cultural field, originally in France, to its emergence as an academic discipline with a particular Irish inflection. It details the progress that food history and culinary education have made in Ireland, suggesting that a new liberal / vocational model of culinary education, which commenced in 1999, has helped transform the …