Archaeological Anthropology Commons^™

Textiles, Dress And Politics: A Diachronic Perspective Through The Case Studies Of Ancient Rome And Medieval Iceland, Meghan Korten, Zofia Kaczmarek

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

People dress for more than just aesthetic reasons. Over the centuries, dress became a sign of human civilization, allowing us to identify the origin, gender, and status of the wearer. Textiles and clothing influence our body, posture, movements, and the way we are perceived by society. Textiles are also a tool used by people to further their agenda, that is why they found their place in the political life of many ancient and modern societies.

According to Michel Foucault, power can be understood as a set of activities influencing the life of the other: It provokes, forbids, or permits, but …

Presenting Past People: Storytelling Through Prehistoric Garment Reconstructions, Floor Huisman, Anna Zimmermann, Ronja Lau, Karina Grömer

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

This paper argues that we need to focus on past people (rather than just objects) in our narratives and museum displays to engage museum visitors more effectively. It will demonstrate that we can use a combination of well-researched physical and digital prehistoric garment reconstructions to implement more people-centered approaches also used in living history, which bring the past to life and allow visitors to literally come face-to-face with long-dead people. In this way, visitors can relate to past people on an emotional level, which helps them to learn much more about past life than many traditional displays. After outlining how …

Frontmatter For Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, And Culture Across Millennia, Kerstin Droß-Krüpe, Louise Quillien, Kalliope Sarri

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Title and copyright pages, Acknowledgments, Contents, Prefaces.

We believe this volume has the potential to contribute to the advancement of European scientific excellence and competitiveness, fostering a deeper understanding of the cultural, technological, and societal significance of textiles and clothing in shaping European identity and heritage through the millenia. We hope that the anthology will find a wide and interested readership, and that it will inspire many new research projects in the field of textile history.

Technical And Technological Analyses Of Excavated Textiles, Christina Margariti, Judith Goris, Petra Linscheid, Agata Ulanowska

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles are particularly complex and labor-intensive structures, thus their constructive elements, such as fibers and yarns, as well as the final textile products (e.g., threads, cords, fabrics, and applied decoration) reveal a range of important technical, technological, and sociocultural information. In this paper, we discuss the analysis of excavated textiles at two levels:

1) Technical analysis that offers basic information about the qualities of examined textile samples.

2) Technological analysis that provides insights into technology, social relations of production, and the level of craft specialization or production modes.

Both analyses offer new evidence for environmental resources, sustainability, trade, and exchange, …

Investigating Organic Colorants Across Time: Interdisciplinary Insights Into The Use Of Madder, Indigo/Woad, And Weld In Historical Written Sources, Archaeological Textiles, And Ancient Polychromy, Paula Nabais, Cecilie Brøns, Magdalena M. Wozniak

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Organic dyes have been used from the earliest times to provide color primarily to textiles, but also as a colorant in painting. Such organic dyes could create a wealth of colors, depending on the availability and know-how of resources. These dyes are usually organic in nature, and primarily obtained from different plant sources. Unfortunately, the characterization of natural organic colorants in textiles and artworks is still a challenge. The difficulty of analyzing these materials is sometimes allied to the frequent impossibility of micro-sampling, and the frailty of the objects. Many techniques, such as HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography) and SERS (Surface-Enhanced …

Towards Textile Narratives: A Cross-Over Perspective On Textile Imagery In Statuary, Iconography, And Literature, Leyre Morgado-Roncal, Juliane Müller, Marisa Kerbizi

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles and clothing constitute a fundamental element of our cultural past, present, and future. Therefore, they were also represented in many mediums, such as iconographic depictions and literature. Images are a source of visual and mental illustration and are often dependent on the viewer’s perspective. As a result, the representations of textiles convey social constructions and their cultural perception. Their study is the focal point of this article: The ways in which textiles and clothing are described by the imagery shown in Greek and Roman statuary and iconography, as well as in contemporary Albanian literature and mythology.

Representations illustrate the …

Young Romans: Status, Dress, And Gender, Mary Harlow, Lena Larsson Lovén

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

The demographics of the Roman world suggest that it was a world full of children. Demographers argue that in order simply to maintain population levels in a period where life expectancy was very short by modern standards, and infant mortality high, a woman should, on average, have six children, on the assumption that not all would live to adulthood. Despite much research in the last fifty years, children still remain partly invisible in the Roman world. This is primarily because they leave little evidence produced by themselves and are seen through the prism of adult eyes. Inevitably, given the nature …

Narrative And Material Tools Of Resistance: Mobilizing Textile Crafts, Heritage, And Fashion In The Context Of The Invasion Of Ukraine (2022–2023), Magali-An Berthon, Sophia Hayda, Tetiana Krupa, Yuliia Lazorenko, Marie-Louise Nosch

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

In 2022–2024, textile and fashion scholars came together to write an anthology sharing a new vision of European history as seen through textiles, in the COST Action EuroWeb. During this period, the continent was still dealing with the consequences of the COVID-19 pandemic and was then faced with Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022. Contemporary European history will be markedly defined by the ongoing war in Ukraine. One remarkable aspect of this conflict is the way textiles and dress appear daily in a variety of media outlets, mobilized as visual and semiotic means to communicate issues of war …

A Sensory Perspective On High-Ranked Women’S Dress In The 8th To 4th Century Bc In The Mediterranean And Central Europe, Karina Grömer, Susanna Harris, Audrey Gouy, Cecilie Brøns

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

In the late 20th century, the study of western science was dominated by a philosophical approach to evidence as text and meaning. In archaeology, material culture was treated like text, to be read through systems of signs, symbols, and indices put together in syntax. For studies of dress, this was influential in understanding dress as a cognitive system compiled to create identities and meaning. In this approach, textiles, fastenings, hairstyles, and gestures are presented as signs and symbols used to form a statement about identity, to be read by others. There was a focus on the visuality of dress and …

Generation Z’S Perception Of Javanese Oral Tradition Of Myth And Taboo Ora Ilok In Javanese Society, Tira Nur Fitria

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

The various myth and taboos of ora ilok are familiar among several Javanese groups. The objective of this research is to understand generation Z’s perception of the Javanese myth and taboo ora ilok in Javanese society. This research employs the descriptive qualitative method, involving 76 respondents from various regions of Java such as Central Java, East Java, West Java, and the Special Region of Yogyakarta. The respondents were born between 1996 and 2005. Results show that the majority of respondents do not believe in the ora ilok myths. However, there is a different opinion from Generation Z. Some consider myths …

How Covid-19 Affects Libraries In Mongolia, Tseren Ganbaatar Dr., Associate Professor, Narantuya Otgondoo, Zolboo Mashbat

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

Globally, the COVID-19 pandemic has significantly impacted all spheres of the education industry, including libraries. The absence of emergency plans for unforeseen situations like COVID-19 disrupted regular operation and demanded the adoption of new operational protocols. The objectives of this paper are to examine the impact of COVID-19 on library operations, to identify the challenges encountered in libraries, to examine the changes in users’ service preference, and to reflect on the best practice for library operations in the future. To achieve these research objectives, both qualitative and quantitative research methods were employed. Surveys and interviews were conducted to understand changes …

Collection-Based Research On A Kampilan Sword In Jambi People’S Struggle Museum, Irsyad Leihitu, Ujang Hariadi

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

This article discusses the kampilan sword in Jambi People’s Struggle Museum. Kampilan is a traditional weapon originating from the Philippines but has spread to several regions in Indonesia, including Jambi. The kampilan sword collection is often overlooked, and there is not much information regarding these objects, despite the museum’s primary function is research and communication. Therefore, we conducted a study of a collection of kampilan swords to explore information related to these objects, allowing the museum to utilize and develop them in the future. The research model was based on the material culture study, using the social life of things …

Perkembangan Musik Dan Budaya Hip-Hop Di Tiongkok: Eksistensi The Rap Of China Di Tengah Ketatnya Sensor, Matsnaa Chumairo, R. Tuty Nur Mutia

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

Hip-hop culture and rap music originated from the African-American community that emerged around the 1970s in New York City. Hip-hop started to enter PRC in the 1990s and continues to grow among the younger generation. A hip-hop talent search show titled The Rap of China, released in 2017, became very popular, bringing hip-hop music and culture to the fore. Unfortunately, it must eventually face PRC government’s intervention in its development. This article discusses the influence of Chinese government's censorship policies on the development of hip-hop music and culture in China. This case study was conducted using the historical approach, …

Representasi Jejak Memori Budaya Lokal Dalam Karya Performance Art Seniman Indonesia, Litya Ainunning Puri, Handriyotopo Handriyotopo, Khoirunnisa Qonita

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

This article offers an interpretation of performance artworks that serve as representations of local identity and values in the period of Indonesian new media artists. By emphasizing on local identity, this article seeks to reveal how artists respond to global challenges through artworks while capturing the aesthetics and values prevailing throughout Nusantara (the Indonesian archipelago). Additionally, this research offers an analysis of the timeline and geographic distribution of performers from the standpoint of the growth of new media art. Data were collected using a variety of methods, including observation, interview, and literature review involving both historical archives and literary works. …

Rekonstruksi Sejarah Dalam Kumpulan Puisi Dari Batavia Sampai Jakarta Melalui Pembacaan Jauh Berbasis Korpus, Ananda Bintang Purwaramdhona, Mochamad Irfan Hidayatullah, Lina Meilinawati Rahayu

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

By applying the mixed research methods combining new historicism and digital humanities with AntConc-assisted distant reading techniques, this research aims to explore a reconstruction of Jakarta's history offered in From Batavia to Jakarta (1619–1999), a collection of poems by Zeffry J. Alkatiri. Results show that history can be reconstructed through the physical structure of narrative poetry represented by the dominant usage of pronoun "they" and intra-sentence conjunctions and prepositions such as "and", "in", and "the" instead of licentia poetica which can violate language rules. However, in the structural analysis, AntConc was not able to detect several linguistic aspects such …

Praktik Teater Postdramatik Di Indonesia, Afrizal H, Sahrul N, Yusril Yusril

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

The article entitled "Practice of Postdramatic Theater in Indonesia", is an examination of the practice of postdramatic theater in Indonesia in the 1990s to 2000s in Jakarta, Bandung, Yogyakarta, and even West Sumatra. This practice spawned generations that continue to grow and develop through aesthetics based on performance texts, outside of the conventional drama texts that we understand so far. Each theater community, regardless of whether it is postdramatic or not, has carried out an in-depth exploration and elaboration of all possible bodies, texts and artistic materials which are used as the main capital of performances. This study uses qualitative …

Perdagangan Perempuan Indonesia Dalam Situs Pengantin Pesanan: Perspektif Feminisme Sosialis, Wabilia Husnah

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

Mail-order bride websites can be easily found in cyberspace. These websites sell Indonesian women to Chinese men as wives. This study aims to explore the phenomenon of women cyber-trafficking in mail-order bride websites, especially the background of mail-order bride websites and their impacts on the victims. This qualitative research used the case study approach and the socialist feminism theory to investigate three mail-order bride websites. This study concludes that the oppression of women on mail-order bride websites is caused by long-standing patriarchy in Indonesia and China reflected in daily practices, cultural manifestations, and literary works in both countries. Capitalism has …

Orang Tionghoa, Perkebunan Gambir, Lada Dan Kontestasi Di Tanjungpinang Abad Ke-19, Zulfa Saumia Zs

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

The Chinese have settled in Bintan Island since Zheng He’s great expeditions in the 15^th century. However, large-scale arrivals of the Chinese did not occur until in 1740. They worked as laborers in pepper and gambier plantations that belonged to Buginese nobles. Internal and external changes in the political landscape, as well as land and territorial tenures between the Hokkiens in Tanjungpinang and Teochews in Senggarang, added a new nuance to their roles as middlemen, land owners, and coolies in pepper and gambier plantations. This gave rise to contestation between these two ethnic groups. How did the land tenure …

Karakteristik Aksara Pakpak Berdasarkan Sumber Tertulis Di Dairi Dan Pakpak Bharat, Sumatera Utara, Churmatin Nasoichah, Ninny Soesanti Tedjowasono, Tomson Sibarani, Mehammat Br. Karo Sekali, Wahyu Rizky Andhifani, Lolita Refani Lumban Tobing

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

The Pakpak ethnic group occupy two areas in North Sumatra, namely Dairi and Pakpak Bharat, and speak a language with its own set of characters called the Pakpak script. This study discusses the Pakpak script characteristics and writing materials, and provides a compiled description of the Pakpak community in the past based on written sources. The purpose of this study is to determine the characteristics of the Pakpak script and provide a historical description of the ethnic group based on written sources. This study uses the exploratory inductive reasoning model. Results show that the Pakpak and Batak scripts share similar …

Tradisi Penculikan Pengantin Perempuan Dalam Film Alaa Kachuu: Representasi Ketidaksetaraan Gender Di Kirgizstan, Aprina Luzti Lubis, Mina Elfira

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

This research investigates how two movies, both entitled Ala Kachuu (2018 and 2002), represent ala kachuu, i.e. a tradition of bride kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan. Even though the Kyrgyz government has formally banned this practice since 2016, which is considered as a form of forced marriage, it still exists and is practiced by some Kyrgyz. This research used the qualitative method coupled with the mise-en-scène cinematographic technique. By using Stuart Hall’s representation theory (1997) and Mansour Fakih’s gender inequality theory (2008) as analysis tools, this study concludes that both movies represent ala kachuu as a tradition which promotes gender inequality. …

Permainan Alegori Dalam Novel O Karya Eka Kurniawan, Indah Fadhilla

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

Fables typically attach human attributes to animal characters to convey moral messages and teachings, but a number of modern authors use animal characters in their literary works to criticize current sociocultural phenomena. One famous literary work that contains many forms of allegory about relationships between human and animal characters is O, a novel by Eka Kurniawan. Allegories in O are used to exhibit contradictions between humans and animals. Animal characters are presented as possessing human traits, bringing up the idea that animals can become ideal human beings (the concept of “being human”). Meanwhile, human characters are presented as possessing …

Tari Toga Dari Nagari Siguntur Dharmasraya: Eksistensi Dan Pelestarian 1990–2022, Hendra Naldi, Yelda Syafrina, Diana Putri Nengsi, Erniwati Erniwati

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

This article report the study of traditional dance in Siguntur Dharmasraya, West Sumatra. Marhasnida, a cultural activist from Nagari Siguntur, created the toga dance. This article explains how the dance was created, developed, and performed from stage to stage and passed on to the younger generation for preservation. This historical research observed and analyzed the actions of an individual closely related to the development of toga dance. Data were obtained through observation, interviews, and tracing of personal archives pertaining to various aspects of the dance, including its history and movements. This research found (1) that Marhasnida has been involved in …

Geurae Sebagai Pemarkah Wacana Dalam Percakapan Bahasa Korea, Mellyana Murtanu, Usmi Usmi

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

In Korean, the word geurae is positioned as an exclamation in a sentence. Its use in oral communication has diverse meanings and functions. Previous research shows that, apart from conveying its basic meaning, the word geurae is also often used as a discourse marker (DM), especially in a conversation. DMs are words used by speakers to express their feelings and view about the contents of a conversation to a speech partner. The purpose of this study was to analyze the form, meaning, and function of the word geurae as a DM in Korean conversations. This literature study is linguistics description …

Bingkai Heteroseksisme Dalam Karya Sastra Indonesia Kontemporer Bertemakan Homoseksualitas, Lee Yeon

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

Since the early 2000’s, Indonesian literary works raising the issue of homosexuality have been increasing in number. However, the proliferation of discourse on homosexuality cannot be necessarily interpreted as Indonesian literature’s increasing sympathy with homosexuality. Adequate discussion is needed regarding perceptions, perspectives, and attitudes towards homosexuality in literary works with the theme of homosexuality. In relation to this, we found that works raising the issue of homosexuality have not been able to escape from the framework of the prevailing social order and norms, namely heterosexism. This study aims to see how the idea of heterosexism works in narrating and embodying …

Perkembangan Aspek Ilmu Pengetahuan Dalam Industri Perkebunan Di Sumatra Timur 1863–1942, Devi Itawan

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

This study aims to reveal the relationship between science and the plantation industry on colonial expansion in East Sumatra. In this study, science is regarded as a colonial construction, which in the context of East Sumatra was used as a tool for colonial expansion, supporting the process of surplus accumulation through the plantation industry. This research applied the historical method, in which analysis was carried out on primary sources such as colonial scientific publications, travelogues, newspapers, and magazines. An examination of these primary sources was conducted by analyzing the text and the context. The decolonial perspective provides an analytical framework …

Perkembangan Kanal Oud Batavia Abad Xvii–Xx: Tinjauan Sejarah Perkotaan, Heru Mulyanto

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

Urban environmental problems such as flooding and water pollution have actually occurred in Jakarta (formerly Batavia) since the Dutch colonial era. Batavia was one of the cities with a myriad of urban planning problems, such as canal flooding which continues to this day. This article was written to find the root of the water problem in Jakarta by reviewing the development of canal construction from the Oud Batavia to the Nieuwe Batavia era. This study was conducted to identify the colonial government’s methods for dealing with flooding and repairing problematic canals. Thus, this research is expected to provide an insight …

Kuasa Media Atas Masturbasi: Studi Diskursus Youtube Clarin Hayes Dan Lampu Islam, Akbar Mawlana, Naufalul Ihya’ Ulumuddin

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

Various productions of knowledge about masturbation are channeled through the media. The production of knowledge disseminated through technology presents ambivalent conditions that make individual consciousness never complete. However, various studies on masturbation have not touched the media aspect. Therefore, the purpose of this research is to examine the power of the media on masturbation in producing social body discipline. Foucault’s concept of discourse becomes a theoretical knife. Foucault’s discourse orientation leads to an analysis of the power of knowledge on the discipline of social action. The research method is qualitative. The media used are Youtube Clarin Hayes and Lampu Islam. …

Dampak Strategi Koping Masyarakat Jawa Di Masa Pandemi Covid-19, Faruq Faruq, Hanum Midya Syahrina, Nureyzwan Sabani, Siti Rahmawati, Laksmy Dewi Sukmakarti, Nanik Prihartanti

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

The Coping Strategy is a way that is considered effective in overcoming the problems experienced by the Indonesian people during the COVID-19 pandemic, especially the Javanese people. The implementation of the coping strategy will have a positive impact on the lives of the Javanese people in carrying out daily activities. The research method used in this study is qualitative to uncover the meaning of social problems experienced by individuals or communities, with the focus of research being the impact of implementing the coping strategy of the Javanese community during the COVID-19 pandemic. The data collection technique used in this study …

Ancaman Kepunahan Dan Strategi Pemertahanan Tradisi Sinrili Di Masyarakat Makassar, Fitriani Fitriani, Fitriana Fitriana, Nur Hafsa Nasir

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

This study aims to determine the factors causing the threat of extinction and the strategy of maintaining the sinrili tradition in the Makassar community. This study is based on library research with a descriptive approach. The results of this research reveal that the factors that cause the threat of extinction of the sinrili tradition in the Makassar community are:(1) Work as a singer is not considered as a main profession in Makassar, and is only seen as a side job. (2) The development of modern music which is more attractive to the younger generation poses a challenge to this tradition. …

Membaca Persoalan Hijab Dan Otonomi Perempuan Melalui Epistemology Ignorance, Saniyah Pertiwi, Naupal Asnawi

Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya

Apart from its religious values, the hijab has currently developed into a lifestyle. The issue concerning the hijab in Indonesia has evolved over time with a fascinating complexity that is worth to be examined. The Indonesian people who have the habit of questioning the decision to wear or not to wear the hijab illustrates that the choice of Indonesian women is not considered as a personal matter. This research will discuss how the phenomenon of “questioning the decision to wear or not wear the hijab” is based on the epistemology of ignorance, which investigates and explains how ignorance is formed …