Social and Behavioral Sciences Commons^™

Frontmatter For Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, And Culture Across Millennia, Kerstin Droß-Krüpe, Louise Quillien, Kalliope Sarri

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Title and copyright pages, Acknowledgments, Contents, Prefaces.

We believe this volume has the potential to contribute to the advancement of European scientific excellence and competitiveness, fostering a deeper understanding of the cultural, technological, and societal significance of textiles and clothing in shaping European identity and heritage through the millenia. We hope that the anthology will find a wide and interested readership, and that it will inspire many new research projects in the field of textile history.

Technical And Technological Analyses Of Excavated Textiles, Christina Margariti, Judith Goris, Petra Linscheid, Agata Ulanowska

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles are particularly complex and labor-intensive structures, thus their constructive elements, such as fibers and yarns, as well as the final textile products (e.g., threads, cords, fabrics, and applied decoration) reveal a range of important technical, technological, and sociocultural information. In this paper, we discuss the analysis of excavated textiles at two levels:

1) Technical analysis that offers basic information about the qualities of examined textile samples.

2) Technological analysis that provides insights into technology, social relations of production, and the level of craft specialization or production modes.

Both analyses offer new evidence for environmental resources, sustainability, trade, and exchange, …

Investigating Organic Colorants Across Time: Interdisciplinary Insights Into The Use Of Madder, Indigo/Woad, And Weld In Historical Written Sources, Archaeological Textiles, And Ancient Polychromy, Paula Nabais, Cecilie Brøns, Magdalena M. Wozniak

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Organic dyes have been used from the earliest times to provide color primarily to textiles, but also as a colorant in painting. Such organic dyes could create a wealth of colors, depending on the availability and know-how of resources. These dyes are usually organic in nature, and primarily obtained from different plant sources. Unfortunately, the characterization of natural organic colorants in textiles and artworks is still a challenge. The difficulty of analyzing these materials is sometimes allied to the frequent impossibility of micro-sampling, and the frailty of the objects. Many techniques, such as HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography) and SERS (Surface-Enhanced …

Towards Textile Narratives: A Cross-Over Perspective On Textile Imagery In Statuary, Iconography, And Literature, Leyre Morgado-Roncal, Juliane Müller, Marisa Kerbizi

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

Textiles and clothing constitute a fundamental element of our cultural past, present, and future. Therefore, they were also represented in many mediums, such as iconographic depictions and literature. Images are a source of visual and mental illustration and are often dependent on the viewer’s perspective. As a result, the representations of textiles convey social constructions and their cultural perception. Their study is the focal point of this article: The ways in which textiles and clothing are described by the imagery shown in Greek and Roman statuary and iconography, as well as in contemporary Albanian literature and mythology.

Representations illustrate the …

Young Romans: Status, Dress, And Gender, Mary Harlow, Lena Larsson Lovén

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

The demographics of the Roman world suggest that it was a world full of children. Demographers argue that in order simply to maintain population levels in a period where life expectancy was very short by modern standards, and infant mortality high, a woman should, on average, have six children, on the assumption that not all would live to adulthood. Despite much research in the last fifty years, children still remain partly invisible in the Roman world. This is primarily because they leave little evidence produced by themselves and are seen through the prism of adult eyes. Inevitably, given the nature …

Narrative And Material Tools Of Resistance: Mobilizing Textile Crafts, Heritage, And Fashion In The Context Of The Invasion Of Ukraine (2022–2023), Magali-An Berthon, Sophia Hayda, Tetiana Krupa, Yuliia Lazorenko, Marie-Louise Nosch

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

In 2022–2024, textile and fashion scholars came together to write an anthology sharing a new vision of European history as seen through textiles, in the COST Action EuroWeb. During this period, the continent was still dealing with the consequences of the COVID-19 pandemic and was then faced with Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022. Contemporary European history will be markedly defined by the ongoing war in Ukraine. One remarkable aspect of this conflict is the way textiles and dress appear daily in a variety of media outlets, mobilized as visual and semiotic means to communicate issues of war …

A Sensory Perspective On High-Ranked Women’S Dress In The 8th To 4th Century Bc In The Mediterranean And Central Europe, Karina Grömer, Susanna Harris, Audrey Gouy, Cecilie Brøns

Textile Crossroads: Exploring European Clothing, Identity, and Culture across Millennia

In the late 20th century, the study of western science was dominated by a philosophical approach to evidence as text and meaning. In archaeology, material culture was treated like text, to be read through systems of signs, symbols, and indices put together in syntax. For studies of dress, this was influential in understanding dress as a cognitive system compiled to create identities and meaning. In this approach, textiles, fastenings, hairstyles, and gestures are presented as signs and symbols used to form a statement about identity, to be read by others. There was a focus on the visuality of dress and …

Burning Fear, Amy Dorie

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Climate change is leading to more intense and devastating wildfires that lead to tragic loss of life and property (Cal Fire, 2018; Sinco et al., 2023) and disturbing environmental impacts (OECD, 2023). The purpose of this textile design was to create an activist design that communicates the fear and anxiety felt by those impacted by wildfires. First-hand accounts of those experiencing wildfires were researched as inspiration for the textile design. Based on the accounts, a selection of wildfire-related images were cropped in irregular shapes, placed around the canvas, and blended evoking a sense of chaos and devastation. An image of …

Caring Cloth Praxis: Ethics Of Loss, Practices Of Remembering, Suzanna James

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This research, in continual development as a part of early PhD study, is currently entitled ‘Ethics of Loss, Practices of Remembering’ and locates itself within the field of cultural sustainability. It is foregrounded by my MA thesis entitled ‘Caring Cloth’ and works in response to the words of Louise Bourgeois: ‘the needle is used to repair damage, its claim to forgiveness.’ My own socially and environmentally regenerative textiles practice considers the way in which personal practices of remembering can be developed in response to cultural sustainability.

This textiles practice develops explorative visual textile art and social textile practice research which …

23 Extinct Redwork Quilt Project: Repairing Relationships With Our More-Than-Human Kin, Stitch By Stich, Heather Kerley

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In 2021, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service proposed 23 species for delisting from the Endangered Species Act due to extinction. I would like to present my redwork quilt, Mourning Lost Kin (23 Extinct), which honors each of these species. I plan to share my process from researching and sketching each species to the embroidering of each block and the over-all construction of the quilt. But most importantly, I would love to share the stories of these species, the layers of meaning in this quilt, and the many questions it raised for me over the course of two years. …

Public Patriotism, Silent Dissent: Women And The Making Of Senninbari In Wartime Japan, Mariko Nagai

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During the early years of the so-called “Fifteen Year War” (1931–1945), Japanese women and girls created senninbari when men received draft notices to serve. Often worn around soldiers’ waists underneath their uniforms, these sash-shaped talisman were embroidered with 1,000 red knots, each knot made by a woman. In a time when the Japanese government censored dissenting voices against its militaristic and nationalistic foreign and domestic policies, this government-encouraged gesture of stitching senninbari became one of the few ways in which women could voice their personal protests within patriarchal gender expressions (良妻賢母 “good wife, wise mother”). Senninbari’s design evolved with regional- …

Textile As Cultural Technology: The Evolution Of Robert Rauschenberg’S Jammers, 1975–6, Katya Oicherman

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Robert Rauschenberg suggested that any material has a “humanitarian reportage” or a history built into it, that opens art to the “strange and unpredictable” experience only comparable to everyday reality. Developing this idea, I will focus on the Jammers, a series of works with significant textile presence produced in 1975–76, and discuss how Rauschenberg’s relationship to textiles evolved from treating them as “materials” to recognizing them as cultural technologies. In 1975 he was on a fellowship in Ahmedabad, India, a period of intense experimentation.

Textiles were already a significant presence in his art, playing a subservient role of materials …

Textile Ways Of Thinking As A Trauma-Informed Design Tool To Research And Understand Communities, Smrti Ganesan, Nishanth Srikanth

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

There has been a shift in methodologies in the broader world of design. Today, co-design and participatory methods are a vital part of the modern designer's toolkit, and designers are finding new ways to interact with communities and design solutions that are more responsive to the actual needs of those communities.

Textile design has historically been a medium for expressing and processing traumatic experiences, reflecting individual and collective traumas in society. Textiles have also historically served not only as a form of artistic expression but also as a powerful tool in activism, particularly within feminist movements. Recent developments have seen …

Solidarity Dividend With Us Wool And Community Engagement To Address Socioeconomic Inequities, Helen X. Trejo, Angela Becerril

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

As a long-standing natural fiber, wool provides an opportunity for community engagement and reflexive practice. Our process involved sourcing wool from US sheep and wool farms in lower income areas and hands-on textile development, and intersectional reflection. Being at a Hispanic Serving Institution, informed approaches to engage with concepts, such as the “zerosum paradigm” and “Solidarity Dividend” based on Heather McGhee’s NY Times Best Selling book “The Sum of Us.” It explores how racism affects intergenerational wealth among minorities. The zero-sum paradigm is the idea that progress is a tradeoff; benefits to some is at an expense for others. The …

Lavenz, Valenz, Levenxë, Lavexha, Lavenzka: Woven Felted Blankets From The Korçë Region In Southeastern Albania, Alexis Zoto

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper will look at and document colors and patterns and motifs of woven and felted blankets from the Korçë region of southeastern Albania. Very little is published on these textiles. This paper will document the disappearing and under appreciated textile, and why are they no longer understood or valued. In Albania and in Albanian diaspora communities this textile has had different names in prewar, prewar Korçare dialect and now.

I will be drawing from information gathered interviewing parishioners who volunteered to share their heirlooms and information gathered from examining the textile(s). These heirlooms belong to members of multiple generations …

The Midwest Feminist Papers: A Facsimile Edition 1980–1997. Part Iii (1991–1997), Mary Jo Deegan, Michael R. Hill

Zea E-Books Collection

Mary Jo Deegan and Michael R. Hill, compilers. The Midwest Feminist Papers: A Facsimile Edition 1980–1997, with prefaces and author indices by Mary Jo Deegan and Michael R. Hill. 3 volumes: Part III (1991–1997)

The Midwest Feminist Papers was a creative, group-generated initiative that gave voice to the scholarly questions, research interests, and social concerns of a growing cohort of Midwestern feminist sociology graduate students and their feminist faculty mentors during the last quarter of the Twentieth Century. They were active members of Midwest Sociologists for Women in Society, a regional expression of the larger national Sociologists for Women …

Discourses That Undermine Union Movements: A Multimodal Analysis Of Union-Busting Videos, Theresa A. Catalano, Julia Schleck

Department of Teaching, Learning, and Teacher Education: Faculty Publications

Labor unions in the United States have experienced decades of decline, but recent years have seen a rebirth of union campaigns and successes. Because unions are once again becoming a threat to large companies, it is reasonable to assume that efforts to discourage organizing efforts will increase and become even more robust in the near future. Although traditionally, companies have worked to suspend union organizing through captive audience meetings in which unions were discussed via verbal or written modes, more recent means of reaching workers with anti-union messages incorporate a variety of communication strategies to get the message across. As …

I Am Not A Hero: Heroic Action Divorces The Hero From The Political Community, Ari Kohen, Brian Riches, Andre Sólo

Department of Political Science: Faculty Publications

Most people who perform a heroic act will, afterward, deny that their actions were heroic and claim that anyone would have done the same, even though that is demonstrably false (and, often, others were present who failed to act heroically at all). The literature on the psychology of heroism has never investigated why this is. This theoretical paper proposes an answer and seeks to provoke exploration of a previously unexplored topic. We note that people who undertake heroic action face a unique conflict: they embody their community’s highest values, while simultaneously breaking norms to stand apart from that community. We …

Examining Adolescent Sexual Patterns In Creek Town, Nigeria: Insights From A Cross-Sectional Survey And Implications For Tailored Interventions, Rowland Edet, Kabiru K. Salami

Department of Sociology: Faculty Publications

In the dynamic landscape of global health, the sexual behaviors of adolescents are of particular significance due to their profound implications for individual well-being and public health. This article focuses on Creek Town, a vibrant community in Nigeria, and aims to provide a nuanced exploration of the sexual behaviors of adolescents within the context of local culture and socioeconomic factors. A cross-sectional survey design was employed, involving a multi-stage sampling approach with 422 participants. A comprehensive 112-item questionnaire captured various aspects of adolescent sexual behaviors. Additionally, four focus group discussions, including both in-school and out-of-school adolescents, provided qualitative insights. The …

Animal Agriculture And Cellular Agriculture Futures Workshop Resources, Julia Mcquillan, Linda J. Pfeiffer, Charlotte Brockman, Meghan Leadabrand, Michael Sealy

Department of Sociology: Faculty Publications

The activity was supported by NIST Cooperative Agreement 70NANB22H047T under the project titled, "Manufacturing USA Technology Roadmap for Cellular Agriculture: Initiative for Convergent Manufacturing of Agriculture and Food for Equity (I-CAFE).”

Review Of Queer Kinship: Race, Sex, Belonging, Form, First Edition, Patrick Barchett

Nebraska Anthropologist

Review of Queer Kinship: Race, Sex, Belonging, Form, 1st edition, edited by Tyler Bradway and Elizabeth Freeman. 2022. Duke University Press, Durham, North Carolina, USA. vii + 352 pp. Reviewed by Patrick Barchett, University of Nebraska-Lincoln.

Due widely to the inaccessible nature of “nonnormative” sexualities and genders in many ethnographic studies, queer kinship tends to be left out of many kinship classes and discussions. However, Queer Kinship: Race, Sex, Belonging, Form (edited by Tyler Bradway and Elizabeth Freeman) discusses not only queer kinship in the sense of LGBTQ+ kinship, but also other forms of nonnormative kinship structures, such …

Adrian Wisnicki’S One More Voice: A Review, Akua Agyeiwaa Denkyi-Manieson

Department of English: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

A review of Adrian Wisnicki’s One More Voice.

Adrian Wisnicki's One More Voice website, accessible at https://onemorevoice.org/, is a valuable resource for scholars and students of digital humanities, particularly those interested in African studies. The website is designed to facilitate the exploration and analysis of texts related to African history and literature. As part of a digital humanities course in the spring of 2023, I had the opportunity to engage with the website, which serves both as a repository of information and as a platform for educational activities, such as text analysis and website creation. One More Voice …

The Chesnutt Archives: A Review, Akua Agyeiwaa Denkyi-Manieson

Department of English: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

A review of the Charles W. Chesnutt Archives, available at https://chesnuttarchive.org/.

Sociological Analysis Of Stress Management Among Farmers And Rural Development In Selected Communities In Kwara State, Sunkanmi Folorunsho

Department of Sociology: Dissertations, Theses, and Student Research

Rural farmers, in most cases, act as their own managers and feel responsible for numerous farming issues over which they have little or no control. Essentially, farmers allocate a significant portion of their available time primarily to safety, as well as improvements in crops, land, and even livestock. However, it is very regrettable to think that they do not extend the same care or give equal consideration to their physical, social, and mental health and well-being, increasing the likelihood of stress. If this problem of stress persists, it could lead to a reduction in their ability to provide for themselves …

Books, Boots, And Beer Halls In Germany: Observations By A Young Nebraskan Studying In Europe, 1876–1878, George Elliott Howard, Michael R. Hill

Zea E-Books Collection

Long before George Elliott Howard (1849–1928) became one of Nebraska’s premier sociologists and was elected president of the American Sociological Association (1917), he was a footloose young scholar who pursued postgraduate education in Germany during 1876–1878. Eager to share his adventures, Howard wrote and dispatched seven insightful essays that were quickly published in Nebraska newspapers. Here, collected together for the first time, are Howard’s firsthand observations on travel in Europe, life and learning in Germany, studying the German language, student beer-drinking societies, and a walking tour in Austria. Edited and introduced by Michael R. Hill, Howard’s essays are placed squarely …

The Midwest Feminist Papers: A Facsimile Edition 1980–1997. Part I (1980–1983), Mary Jo Deegan, Michael R. Hill

Zea E-Books Collection

Mary Jo Deegan and Michael R. Hill, compilers. The Midwest Feminist Papers: A Facsimile Edition 1980–1997, with prefaces and author indices by Mary Jo Deegan and Michael R. Hill. 3 volumes: Part I (1980–1983)

The Midwest Feminist Papers was a creative, group-generated initiative that gave voice to the scholarly questions, research interests, and social concerns of a growing cohort of Midwestern feminist sociology graduate students and their feminist faculty mentors during the last quarter of the Twentieth Century. They were active members of Midwest Sociologists for Women in Society, a regional expression of the larger national Sociologists for Women …

University Of Nebraska–Lincoln, Big Ten Scholarly Publishing, Sue Ann Gardner

University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries: Presentations

Slides of a presenttation about the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, University Libraries' scholarly publishing activities, given online at the Big Ten Scholarly Publishing Group monthly meeting on December 19, 2024.

The Dei Metadata Handbook: A Guide To Diverse, Equitable, And Inclusive Description, Harriet E. Wintermute, Heather M. Campbell, Christopher S. Dieckman, Nausicaa L. Rose, Hema Thulsidhos

University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries: Faculty Publications

Readers will be able to use this handbook to:

• Gain a broad awareness of various DEI-related issues existing in metadata creation and management

• Learn techniques for retroactively reviewing and updating existing metadata to address these issues

• Develop strategies to create metadata that better meets DEI needs. Overview of contents

This handbook may be read cover to cover, but its organization also facilitates skipping to chapters that are relevant to your work or interests. Each chapter focuses on a particular area of metadata work, detailing different ethical considerations and approaches. Each chapter includes examples and use cases related …

Common Evidence Synthesis Review Frameworks: How To Conduct A Systematic Review, Elle Covington

University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries: Faculty Publications

Description

A graphical representation of an outline of the frames and stages for researchers conducting systematic reviews, scoping reviews, and qualitative evidence syntheses.

Common Evidence Synthesis Review Frameworks: How To Conduct A Qualitative Evidence Synthesis, Elle Covington

University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries: Faculty Publications

Description

A graphical representation of an outline of the frames and stages for researchers conducting systematic reviews, scoping reviews, and qualitative evidence syntheses.