Indigenous Studies Commons^™

Contemporary Muslim Fashions: De Young Museum, San Francisco, Ca, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Calico, chintz, damask, muslin, cashmere, seersucker, taffeta, shawl, caftan, and cummerbund-all English terms derived from Islamic textiles and dress-are the products of textile technologies that resulted from colonization and trade. Their cultural origins are long forgotten, shrouded in the fast-moving commercialized fashion industry and haute couture ofthe West that developed during the 20th century. The exhibition, Contemporary Muslim Fashions, is a game-changer.

The exhibition organizers, Jill D'Alessandro and laura Camerlengo, curators of costumes and textiles at the De Young Museum in San Francisco, worked with Reina Lewis in London as a curatorial consultant. Together, they drew upon the local advice …

Defining Authentic: The Relationship Between Native Art And Federal Indian Policy, 1879-1961, Aurora Kenworthy

Honors Program: Senior Projects (Public)

Between 1879 and 1961, non-Native perceptions of what constituted authentic Native art shifted. These changing perceptions were influenced by, and then in turn influenced, federal policy and legislation. While non-Native individuals and groups worked to improve conditions for Native communities and to protect “authentic” Native art forms, Native reformers also attempted to enact change to help Native communities and Native artists exercised control over their own art and identity.

Ciencia De Tejer En Los Andes: Estructuras Y Técnicas De Faz De Urdimbre, Denise Y. Arnold, Elvira Espejo

Textile Research Works

Las estructuras y técnicas de los textiles andinos, en las piezas arqueológicas y en las piezas tanto históricas como contemporáneas, se cuentan entre las más complejas del mundo. Si bien el tapiz o faz de trama quizá sea el más conocido de todos los tipos de tela de la región, es sin duda en las telas de faz de urdimbre donde estas estructuras y técnicas han alcanzado su máximo desarrollo, sobre todo en nuestros tiempos. Varios estudios anteriores han intentado describir las estructuras y técnicas de faz de urdimbre, fundamentalmente los libros clásicos Textiles of Anciente Peru and their Techniques, …

Chaco Canyon, New Mexico: A Caretaker City And A Pilgrimage Destination, Larry Benson, Deanna N. Grimstead, John R. Stein, David A. Roth, Terry I. Plowman

United States Geological Survey: Staff Publications

Some Southwestern archaeologists continue to ascribe to the hypothesis that Chaco was agriculturally productive to the point that it could support at least a few thousand full-time residents. This paper suggests an alternative hypothesis; i.e., Chaco was marginally productive and could only support a few hundred permanent residents. Isotopic analysis of mammal teeth found in trenches cut through platform mounds fronting Pueblo Bonito indicate the possibility that much of the meat consumed by Chacoan residents and visitors came from higher elevation sites bordering the San Juan Basin. We suggest that resident population estimates based on great house room numbers and …

The Aleppo Minbar: Symmetry And Islamic Aesthetics, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

The Aleppo minbar (pulpit for Friday sermons) is a monumental architectural sculpture commissioned in the middle of the 12th century in Aleppo, Syria, by Nur al-Din al-Zangi, who was ruling from Damascus. Envisioning the end of the Crusades, Nur al-Din sought to place the minbar in the Aqsa Mosque after Muslims reclaimed Jerusalem, where it was installed in 1187 by the Ayyubid ruler, Saladin. Richly ornamented with many geometric forms and designs, the wooden minbar expresses an algorithmic Islamic aesthetic based on symmetry, with patterns that imply an infinite expanse contained within borders. Manifesting an aesthetic that persisted for …

Sufism, Beauty, Love: Ecstasy And Rapture Of Islam In Asia. Study Guide, Carol Bier

Textile Research Works

Key Vocabulary: Concepts, Practices, Buildings, Masters/Leaders/Disciples

Major Sufi Figures

Suggested Readings

The Care Principles For Indigenous Data Governance, Global Indigenous Data Alliance

Copyright, Fair Use, Scholarly Communication, etc.

The CARE Principles for Indigenous Data Governance

The current movement toward open data and open science does not fully engage with Indigenous Peoples rights and interests. Existing principles within the open data movement (e.g. FAIR: findable, accessible, interoperable, reusable) primarily focus on characteristics of data that will facilitate increased data sharing among entities while ignoring power differentials and historical contexts. The emphasis on greater data sharing alone creates a tension for Indigenous Peoples who are also asserting greater control over the application and use of Indigenous data and Indigenous Knowledge for collective benefit.

This includes the right to create value …

Modeling Sound In Ancient Maya Cities: Moving Towards A Synesthetic Experience Using Gis And 3d Simulation, Graham Goodwin

Department of Anthropology: Theses and Student Research

Digital technologies enable modeling of the potential role of sound in past environments. While digital approaches have limitations in objectively rendering reality, they provide an expanded platform that potentially increases our understanding of experience in the past and enhances the investigation of ancient landscapes. Digital technologies enable new experiences in ways that are multi-sensual and move us closer toward reconstructing holistic views of past landscapes. Archaeologists have successfully employed 2D and 3D tools to measure vision and movement within cityscapes. However, built environments are often designed to invoke synesthetic experiences that also include sound and other senses. Geographic Information Systems …

Los Productos Textiles De Los Andes Sur-Centrales: Guía Ontológica Centrada En La Región Aymara-Hablante, Denise Y. Arnold

Textile Research Works

El presente libro ofrece una organización ontológica de los productos textiles andinos. A nivel mundial, los museólogos están dando cuenta de la utilidad de este recurso para estructurar sus colecciones de objetos y para vincularlas con datos de respaldo (registros, catálogos, dibujos, fotos, etc.). Una ontología es una especificación explícita de una conceptualización, que proporciona una estructura y los contenidos que codifican las reglas implícitas de una parte de la realidad, en este caso del dominio textil. Aquí presentamos una representación del conocimiento del dominio textil centrada en las ‘formas’ textiles, por decir los tipos de prendas (ahuayo, acso, unco, …

Precolumbian Textile Conference Vii / Jornadas De Textiles Precolombinos Vii, Lena Bjerregaard, Ann H. Peters

Zea E-Books Collection

Contents:

Introduction — Lena Bjerregaard and Ann Peters

Mexico

1. Mesoamerican Archaeological Textiles: An Overview of Materials, Techniques, and Contexts — Laura Filloy Nadal

2. Urdimbres enlazadas de Mesoamérica. Textil de la Cueva del Gallo, Morelos, México — Patricia Ochoa Castillo & Rosa Lorena Román Torres •

3. Los textiles procedentes del actual estado de Guerrero, México: una revisión a su estudio desde la perspectiva arqueológica y etnohistórica — Elizabeth Jiménez García

4. Classic Textiles from Cueva del Lazo (Chiapas, Mexico). Archaeological context and conservation issues — Davide Domenici & Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela

5. Textiles y otros materiales arqueológicos …

Classic Textiles From Cueva Del Lazo (Chiapas, Mexico): Archaeological Context And Conservation Issues, Davide Domenici, Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

The excavation of Cueva del Lazo, a cave on the cliffs of the Río La Venta River canyon in the Zoque region of Western Chiapas (Mexico), led to the discovery of a complex Late Classic post-sacrificial context where eleven children were buried wrapped in textile bundles. The environmental conditions of the dry cave allowed an extraordinary preservation of perishable materials including textiles, cordages, botanical remains, etc. In the first part of the paper we provide a brief introduction to the archaeology of the Selva El Ocote, as well as a description and interpretation of the Cueva del Lazo archaeological context. …

Urdimbres Enlazadas De Mesoamérica. Textil De La Cueva Del Gallo, Morelos, México, Patricia Ochoa Castillo, Rosa Lorena Román Torres

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

Los ejemplos de textiles arqueológicos que se encuentran en la República mexicana son muy escasos debido entre otras cosas al suelo húmedo. Los hallazgos de textiles arqueológicos son considerados casi milagros de la arqueología y de la conservación, tal es el caso de la colección de textiles de la Cueva del Gallo, en Ticumán Morelos, México. El objeto de este trabajo es la contextualización y análisis textil de un lienzo completo encontrado en esta cueva en 1991 elaborado con urdimbres enlazadas, teñido con azul índigo o añil y grana cochinilla, que dio inicio al Proyecto Arqueológico de Ticumán (PAT) en …

Mesoamerican Archaeological Textiles: An Overview Of Materials, Techniques, And Contexts, Laura Filloy Nadal

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

In Mesoamerica, unlike the Andean area, there are few instances when climatic conditions allow the preservation of the organic raw materials constituting ancient fabrics. Examples of such textiles conserved in Mexican museums are quite limited, thus even the tiniest fragments recovered in archaeological contexts greatly augment our understanding of ancient weaving technologies and their use in Mesoamerican societies. Most of the surviving fabrics come from dry caves in northern Mexico, but in recent days the exploration of relatively inaccessible rock shelters in southern Mexico has led to the recovery of additional textiles from early times that are associated with funerary …

Archaeological Textiles Of Sechín Bajo – A Formative Site Of The North Coast Of Peru: Preliminarily Results, Katalin Nagy

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

In spring 2014, I took part in an archaeological project carried out by a German-Peruvian team of archeologists in the Sechín Valley, next to the Valley of Casma, on the North Coast of Peru. The project started more than ten years ago and has been taking place parallel to some other important archaeological projects on the North Coast. Its aim was to unearth the temple mounds and to reconstruct the parts of the various phases. The earliest layers date back to the Pre-Ceramic Period. During the wall construction of the temple, many textile fabrics such as nets and ropes were …

Andean Textile Traditions: Material Knowledge And Culture, Part 1, Elena Phipps

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

The development of rich and complex Andean textile traditions spanned millennia, in concert with the development of cultures that utilized textiles as a primary form of expression and communication. Understanding the importance of textiles in the Andean world, we can examine elements of their genesis and look at the trajectory from the earliest developments of fiber- made items to the extraordinarily complex and specific processes of textile making, such as warp-wrapping and discontinuous warp and weft weaving. These processes are examined in the context of the relationship between textiles and the sacred, highlighting the significance and agency of cloth in …

Textiles Y Otros Materiales Arqueológicos Del Valle De Tehuacán, México, En Los Museos Reales De Arte E Historia (Mrah), Bruselas, Julia Montoya

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

En este trabajo se presenta una colección de materiales arqueológicos que provienen de dos cuevas no localizadas del Valle de Tehuacán, estado de Puebla, México. Los materiales datan del período posclásico (1250-1521) y pertenecen a las culturas mixteca y azteca. La colección se conserva en los Museos Reales de Arte e Historia, MRAH, de Bruselas, Bélgica. Incluye entre otros, objetos de madera con mosaico, cerámica, restos humanos, esteras, plantas, textiles de algodón, sandalias y ofrendas de papel amate, entre las cuales, tres fueron teñidas con la técnica de reserva conocida como plangi. Hasta la fecha la colección no ha sido …

Introduction Into The History Of The Textile Collection At The Ethnological Museum Berlin, Beatrix Hoffmann

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

When the Ethnological Museum at Berlin was founded, it counted already with several hundred pieces from South America. Only a minor part them belonged to pre-Columbian cultures from the Andes. While most of these pieces were ceramics almost no ancient fabrics could be found in the collection. This reflected the collector’s interests focusing on objects made of ceramic, stone or metal and on human remains. Consequently, the first pieces of fabric reached the museum at Berlin as parts of mummy cloths. This did not change until 1879, when the collection of Reiss and Stübel was acquired for the museum. It …

Analysis Of Paracas Fibre Material From The Gothenburg Collection, Anna Javér

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

Gothenburg City has in its collection, 2000-year-old textiles from the Paracas peninsula in Peru. After the exhibition ”A Stolen World” at the National Museums of World Culture in 2008, Peru asked for a repatriation of the collection. Following negotiations between the City of Gothenburg and the Ministry of Culture in Peru it was decided that the ownership of the textiles would be returned to Peru. In June 2014, the first four textiles were returned to the National Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology, and History (MNAAHP) in Lima as a start of the repatriation. This was also the beginning of a collaboration …

Headdress Forms In The Paracas Necrópolis Mortuary Tradition, Ann H. Peters

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

The importance of headdress is indicated by its careful arrangement on the head of the recently deceased, display on the apex of a mortuary bundle, and prominent depiction in contemporary artifacts. In woven, embroidered or painted imagery, headdress elements include featherwork, the body of a bird or mammal, draped cloth or intertwined bands, often depicted as serpents. Due to their position above the human body, the headdresses are the most consistently preserved textile artifacts in tombs of the Paracas Necropolis mortuary tradition. Some elements appear only with men, others are found with both men and women and certain headcloths are …

Lambayeque Textile Iconography And Its Continuity In Chimu And Inca Cultures, And Its Link To Modern Ecuadorian Pujilí Corpus Christi Celebrations, Yvonne Fleitman,, Alisa Baginski

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

This paper traces the continuity of the iconography and rituals expressed in the textiles of the Late Intermediate Period (900-1470 CE) of the North Coast of Peru. We suggest a new identification for the Principal Deity of the Lambayeque culture. We propose that this image and its attributes continued to be displayed in ceremonial costumes of the later Chimu culture; that the rituals continued into the Inca Period; through the Colonial evangelization of the Americas; and even into contemporary Corpus Christi processions in Ecuador.

Iconografía textil Lambayeque y su continuidad en las culturas Chimu y Inca, y su vinculación con …

La Imagen Divina Y El Simbolismo Religioso En Textiles Del Antiguo Perú, Uwe Carlson

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

Una gran parte de los antiguos textiles peruanos muestra imágenes divinas en muchas variaciones. Estos se complementan con el simbolismo religioso de la fertilidad, que se presenta en tres alternativas diferentes y muchas variaciones. Algunas culturas también utilizaron imágenes emblemáticas divinas. En la costa del ave marina tenía un estatus casi divino, que se expresa en muchos tejidos. Textiles de las culturas del norte y del sur se acogieron al contenido de las formas de Chavín, pero encontraron sus propias variaciones. Murales, relieves, joyas y otros objetos que contienen la misma información que los textiles. La sociedad del antiguo Perú …

The Arizona Openwork (Tonto) Shirt Project, Carol James

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

In 1923 a pair of hikers came across a series of objects in a cave near the Salt River in Arizona. Among the objects was an elaborate sprang shirt, later given to the Arizona State Museum where it remains to this date. The cotton yarn in the shirt was subjected to Carbon Dating and assigned a probable origin date of the 12th century. In order to better understand the shirt, a replica was made in early 2015. Diverse technical challenges included hand spinning an appropriate cotton yarn, mapping the pattern, accurately copying the irregularities, and creating the neckline. The project …

La Conservación De Dos Fardos Funerarios Provenientes De Contextos Arqueológicos: El Caso De La Cueva Del Lazo, Ocozocoautla, Chiapas Y La Cueva De La Candelaria, Torreón, Coahuila, México, Gloria Martha Sánchez Valenzuela

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

El presente artículo se enfoca en la conservación de dos fardos funerarios localizados en diferentes cuevas dentro de la República Mexicana que, a pesar de encontrarse en polos opuestos, se conservaron gracias a las condiciones de humedad y temperatura estables dentro de un contexto seco. Lamentablemente, en ambos casos, no existe un registro minucioso del contexto (mediciones de humedad, temperatura, análisis de sedimentos, entre otros), así como de las condiciones en las que estos se encontraban (elementos asociados –restos óseos, ornamentos, posición, etc) que permitan realizar una intervención lo más fehaciente posible. Estos ingresan a la CNCPC1 completamente colapsados, después …

Structure, Design, And Gender In Inka Textiles, Blenda Femenías

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

This paper focuses on Inka textiles that apparently were made specifically for or were used by males or females in pre-Columbian times. In particular, I address relationships among tapestry-woven objects (especially those featuring tukapus, rectangular design blocks) and those created using warp-patterned structures, centering on garments and personal accessories. While there are fewer extant full-size garments associated with females than with males, the availability of a large number of miniature female-associated garments both facilitates and complicates gendered comparisons.

Estructura, Diseño y Género en Inka Textiles

Resumen -- Este ensayo se enfoca en textiles Inka que aparentemente fueron creados o utilizados …

The World On A Whorl: Considerations On Aztec Spindle Whorl Iconography, Jesper Nielsen

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

An unpublished collection of Aztec (Late Postclassic central Mexico, ca. 1400-1520) spindle whorls (totaling 33 items) with rich iconographic embellishment is the focus of this paper, which will discuss a set of recurring iconographic themes, such as the ’sun disk’, ’eagles’, ’jade disks or chalchihuites’ and ’cloud-scrolls’, on the whorls. Previous treatments of spindle whorl imagery have tended to regard such motifs merely as decoration, but here I suggest that the repertoire at hand indicate a limited scope of motifs that share some cosmological and religious significance. In a broader perspective these observations point to the potential mythological underpinnings of …

Nasca Textiles Of South Peru, Los Molinos, Sector B. Analysis And Insights, Daniela Biermann

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

In a northern sector of the administrative centre of Los Molinos, studied by the PALPA Project under the leadership of Dr. Markus Reindel (KAAK Bonn) and Lic. Johny Isla Cuadrado (Institudo Andino de Estudios Arqueológicos, Lima), textile fragments were found in undisturbed strata dating to the Early and Middle Nasca Phase (325-620 AD). Archaeological data indicates that this area was a location used for ritual ceremonies. Detailed analysis, together with exact archaeological evidence offer an overview of the nature and quality of these remnants within the broad spectrum of material and textile analysis techniques. Could these findings provide us with …

The Curious Case Of Sir Henry Wellcome’S Wooden Statuette Clad In Tie-Dyed Wari Cloth, Penelope Dransart

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

A wooden statuette clad in small-scale garments made from a Wari style tie-dyed textile joined the collections of the City of Liverpool Public Museum (now National Museums Liverpool) in 1951 along with other items distributed by the trustees of the Wellcome Historical Medical Museum. This article discusses Wari style tie-dyed tunics as part of an ensemble of garments. It explores the character of the Wari period textile (c. AD 600-1000) used for dressing the statuette, its similarity to textiles in the Fowler Museum at the University of California, Los Angeles and the Museo Nacional de Arqueología, Antropología e Historia del …

Trajes De Poder. Los Conjuntos Chimú Con Borlas, Victòria Solanilla

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

A raíz de la puesta en marcha del Museo de Culturas del Mundo (MCM) de Barcelona, inaugurado en febrero de 2015, y conocedores de que entre las piezas procedentes de América precolombina había una camisa con borlas Chimú perteneciente a la Colección Folch, creímos que sería interesante estudiarla. Por otro lado, en una reunión que se realizó en Basilea en marzo de 2014, con motivo de la puesta al día del grupo que formamos los integrantes del proyecto Corpus Antiquitatum Americanensium perteneciente a la Unión Académica Internacional, en la que participaron conservadores de las secciones de América de los principales …

Hallazgo De Una Ofrenda Textil Con Material Horizonte Tardío E Inca Local En El Valle Medio De Pisco, Luis Peña Callirgos

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

Durante la ejecución del Proyecto de Evaluación Arqueológica del Poliducto Camisea –TGP. Variante Pisco, se intervino uno de los sitios denominado Alto Huayanga I, en donde se realizó el hallazgo de una ofrenda textil en muy buen estado de conservación que pertenecería al Horizonte Tardío o Inca local para el valle medio de Pisco.

Finding a Textile Offering with Late Horizon and Local Inca Material in the Middle Valley of Pisco

Abstract -- During the execution of the Archaeological Evaiuation Project for the Camisea – TGP [Liquid Natural Gas] Pipeline, Pisco Variant, work was carried out at one of the …

Pre-Columbian Textile Structures At Castillo De Huarmey, Peru, Aleksandra Laszczka, Jeffrey C. Splitstoser, Miłosz Giersz

PreColumbian Textile Conference VII / Jornadas de Textiles PreColombinos VII (2016)

Systematic excavations at the Castillo de Huarmey archaeological site, located on the North Coast of Peru, enabled researchers to collect an immense number of fabrics. During the first season of textile investigations, carried out in July of 2014 by American and Polish researchers, 724 objects were examined, including textile fragments, yarns, and cordage. A general description of the basic structures indicates a variety of weaving techniques. Although the collection consists mainly of plain weave of all kinds, new structures such as three-dimensional cross-knit looping and feather-mosaic work were recognized, none of which were encountered among textiles collected from the surface …