Arts and Humanities Commons^™

The Silk Road Textiles At Birka: An Examination Of The Tabletwoven Bands, Cathy Ostrom Peters

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

On the Swedish Island of Björkö, that today lies in Lake Mälaren, is the Viking Age (eighth-tenth century) town of Birka. Between 1871 and 1895 Hjalmar Stolpe excavated approximately 1100 graves in the vast grave-fields lying outside the walls of this town. Stolpe's excavations provided not only one of the richest quarries for the archaeological interpretation of the Viking Age but revealed the diversity of the approximately 600-900 inhabitants who lived in this international trading town. Among these approximately 1100 graves, were a group of male graves that contained a various array of splendid silk textiles, embroideries and trimmings in …

Contemporary Embroideries Of Rabaris Of Kutch: Economic And Cultural Viability, Judy Frater

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Monghiben Rabari is attending an exhibition and sale in Mumbai. Her traditional embroidery has taken her from Vandh, her village of mud huts and camels on the seacoast of Kutch to India’s most cosmopolitan urban metropolis. She is thrilled by the glittering bustle, and by the customers’ enthusiastic response. She deals directly with them, as a professional artisan. And not only do the customers buy; one woman is so impressed that she wants to learn embroidery. She engages Monghi as a teacher during the afternoon lulls of the exhibition.

Surely, we have succeeded in the transition from tradition to profession. …

The Hand Of The Maker: The Importance Of Understanding Textiles From The “Inside Out”, Beverly Gordon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This is a position paper of sorts, arguing that the experience of making a textile is an important component of understanding it, and we should be encouraging textile researchers to include hands-on experiments as part of their investigation. Some TSA members will take this idea for granted because they have first-hand experience with textile making, and may find it overly obvious. The point is hardly new, and archeologist Elizabeth Barber made a strong case for the value of textile “reconstruction” in her 1994 book, Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years. Nevertheless, this is not a universally shared assumption, and …

American Silk From A Marketing Magician: H.R. Mallinson & Co., Madelyn Shaw

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Hiram Royal Mallinson, an ambitious and talented son of mid-nineteenth-century immigrants from Poland, entered the silk trade in 1893 as a salesman for the company of Pelgram & Meyer in Paterson, New Jersey. Just two years later Mallinson joined a new firm, Newwitter & Migel, headquartered in New York City, as head of sales. In 1900, Migel and Mallinson bought out Newwitter and renamed the firm M.C. Migel & Co.

Migel and Mallinson consciously targeted the novelty market and the high-end or “class” customer generally conceded to European concerns at the time. The company was regarded as progressive, its output …

Why Embroidery? An Answer From The Ancient Andes, Anne Paul

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In her meticulous classification of fabric structures, Irene Emery wrote that needlework "is basically one of the simplest crafts, a homely activity that can be practiced by almost anyone on almost any material. But, with fine and carefully chosen materials plus a high degree of skill and imagination in handling them, needlework can be raised almost to the rank of a fine art" (1966:246). I suspect that Emery would not object to my deletion of the word "almost" when discussing the examples of fine art embroidered by certain pre-Conquest Andeans.

Within the ancient Andean world, needlework is not exclusively identified …

A Simple Ikat Sash From Southern Okinawa: Symbol Of Island Identity, Amanda Mayer Stinchecum

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

When I began this project in 1999, I set out to explore a large theme: the relation between ikat textiles and ritual in Yaeyama, the southernmost island-group of Okinawa prefecture. I hoped to trace direct links to Southeast Asia, imagined by many Japanese and Okinawan scholars as the source of Ryukyuan ikat. I set out to pursue the histories of two ikat textiles—a sash and a headscarf--used on Taketomi, linked, in legend, to ceremonial or ritual contexts, and intended to include ikat garments worn by women on ceremonial occasions. As my study unfolded, the persistence of the legend associated …

On Women’S Work In Silk Reeling: Gender, Labor, And Technology In The Historical Silk Industries Of Connecticut And South China, Janice E. Stockard

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction.

This paper is part of a larger project that focuses on the historical sericultural industry of Connecticut, based in the town of Mansfield during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. In this paper, I focus on one specific role in the production of raw silk: silk reeling. In the heyday of its sericultural industry, Mansfield was situated in Windham County, Connecticut. The particular perspective that I bring to this study of silk reeling is one shaped by my experience as an anthropologist who has conducted research on another sericultural area: Shunde County near Guangzhou (Canton) in South China. In …

From Court To Convent: A Silk Embroidered Sampler From Colonial Mexico, Bobbie Sumberg

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Silk appears frequently in many Mexican textiles and garments such as rebozos, skirts, and huipils or blouses. In this paper I discuss a different tradition, that of sampler embroidery in the urban style.

Yrene Escandon was reported to be a lady in waiting for Empress Carlotta, who reigned in Mexico with her husband Emperor Maximilien from 1863-1867. During this time and before entering a convent after her service she and some friends embroidered a sampler replete with floral, religious, animal, and bird motifs. Using this remarkable piece in the collection of the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe …

Historical Buddhist Kesa Robes As Inspiration For Contemporary Fiber Art, Betsy Sterling Benjamin

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Japanese kesa or kasaya in Sanskrit, originated in India in 4th century BC as a robe for the devotees of Buddha Sakyamuni. Created in the brick-like pattern of the Asian rice-field, the original kasaya were constructed of discarded fabric that was cleansed, (redyed and stitched together with prayers as a devotional act. When Buddhism came to ( Japan in the 6th century AD the kesa followed, a treasured manifestation of the Buddhist dharma. One of the earliest extant Japanese kesa, composed of seven layers of silk, in nine vibrant colors, bound together with tiny stitches belonged to Emperor …

Introduction To Chachapoyas Textile Catalogue., Lena Bjerregaard

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This work contains the thorough analysis of forty-one of the best-preserved textiles from the mummy find at Laguna de los Condores (1997). The textiles are now all in the Leymebamba Museum, either in storage or on exhibition. The textiles were partly found loose in the chullpas, partly as part of a mummy - either as inner or outer wrapping or for instance tucked under the chin of the deceased to keep the head in place.

Conditions:

All the textiles analyzed were in surprisingly good condition - after about 500 years in the rainforest all "normal" organic material would have …

"Dichotomies In Silk: Shrinking And Stretching", Genevieve Dion

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Shibori processes can be used to generate highly-textured surface designs for the production of pure silk garments that permanently retain their form and elasticity. Fabric is first shaped using a variety of traditional stitch-resist shibori techniques on greige goods (untreated fabric) of Japanese Guntna silk, a special fabric with highly over-spun silk filaments. Next, fabric is scoured, causing it to shrink — an effect of the high-twist yarns. In unprotected areas, the textile is permanently pleated, whereas the remaining stitch-resisted and protected areas of the fabric become permanently textured. Texture can further be enhanced 0through shibori dyeing.

A major consideration …

The Women Of Palmyra—Textile Workshops And The Influence Of The Silk Trade In Roman Syria, Cynthia Finlayson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

By the second century A.D., the oasis empire of Tadmor, Syria (Roman Palmyra) had eclipsed Nabataean Petra to the south in Jordan as the premier trading conduit for the exotic goods of Asia, India, and China as they found their way by caravan and ship to the hungry markets of the West and Rome. Palmyra functioned as the only viable source of water, salt, and pasture for all large trading expeditions as they ventured across the Northern Syrian Desert to the Mediterranean ports of Antioch, Tyre, Sidon, and Aleppo. Sensuous silk was among the most prized of the exotic goods …

A Tradition Of Weft-Oriented Silk Weaving In Japan: Samit And "Post-Samit" From Japanese Temple And Shrine Collections In American Museums, Yuko Fukatsu

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During the twentieth century, American museums acquired rare ancient and medieval textiles derived from Japanese temple collections. Among them, several types of weft-oriented polychrome silks from the eighth to fourteenth centuries can be identified.

Polychrome silks brought to Japan through the Silk Road had been treasured among the Japanese aristocracy, and mainly preserved in Horyuji temple, and the Shosoin of Todaiji temple. They contained a specific group of early weft-oriented silk textiles called 'samit,' a type of weft-compound weave that was dominant in China as well as in the Byzantine world. The weaving technique was introduced to Japan from China …

"Dichotomies In Silk: Crisp And Soft", Ana Lisa Hedstrom

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Shibori, a compression resist dyeing technique, has increasingly become part of our textile vocabulary and for over 25 years, I have explored these techniques in my own production of fabrics for clothing and interior wall pieces. The opportunity to work with silk greige goods (untreated fabric) and the possibilities with shibori - together, this combination expands the shibori vocabulary with exciting possibilities for the studio artist and designer.

In my application, I use arashi shibori, itajime clamp resist, and nui-shibori stitch resist on the raw yardage. The cloth is simmered in a solution of 10% (of dry weight of …

The Haskell Silk Company: Manufacturers Of Staple Silks Recognized As A "Standard" In The Trade, Jacqueline Field

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Haskell Silk Company founder, James Haskell, was a native of the Cape Anne, area of Massachusetts. In this locale his early career included service in numerous public and business capacities, not least as agent for The Rockport Steam Cotton Company, and as a State Senator. He was a man experienced in politics, finance and textile production. He moved to Maine in 1858 when he acquired the cotton mill at Saccarappa Falls, Westbrook. Under his management the mill, renamed The Westbrook Manufacturing Company, flourished and expanded.

In 1874, his elder son, Frank Haskell, assumed the role of agent. At the same …

The Evolution And Changes Of Moche Textile Style: What Does Style Tell Us About Northern Textile Production?, Maria Jesus Jimenez Diaz

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although Moche textiles form part of the legacy of one of the best known cultures of pre-Hispanic Peru, today they remain relatively unknown. Moche culture evolved in the northern valleys of the Peruvian coast (Fig. 1) during the first 800 years after Christ (Fig. 2). They were contemporary with other cultures such us Nazca or Lima and their textiles exhibited special features that are reflected in their textile production. Previous studies of Moche textiles have been carried out by authors such as Lila O'Neale (1946, 1947), O'Neale y Kroeber (1930), William Conklin (1978) or Heiko Pruemers (1995). However, in spite …

Spain's Enterprise Of Evil, Charlotte M. Gradie

History Faculty Publications

Book review by Charlotte Gradie.

Rabasa, José . Writing violence on the northern frontier: the historiography of sixteenth century New Mexico and Florida and the legacy of conquest. Durham: Duke University Press, 2000. ISBN 978-0-8223-2567-3.

Authorities, Canons, And Scholarship: The Role Of Academic Journals, Arthur B. Evans

Global Language Studies Faculty publications

No abstract provided.

Brain-Based Music Appreciation For Middle School Students, Robert Fauth

All Graduate Projects

This project examined the human brain in relationship to understanding, teaching, and appreciating music. Included is a handbook that provides middle school teachers a brain based researched curriculum that emphasizes the listening aspects of music appreciation.

A Model United States History Developmental Reading Skills Curriculum In Alignment With Washington State Essential Academic Learning Requirements, Mario R. Casello

All Graduate Projects

The purpose ofthis project was to develop a model, United States History developmental reading skills curriculum, for resource room students, at Governor John R. Rogers High School, Puyallup, Washington. The model curriculum was designed in alignment with the Washington State Essential Academic Learning Requirements (EALR'S). To accomplish this purpose, current research and literature was reviewed. Additionally, related information from selected sources was obtained and analyzed.

Direction Of The Production: David And Lisa, Meredith Rachael Sylling

Master of Theater Production Graduate Projects

This project entailed background research and documentation, casting, direction, and the post-production assessment of Sunnyside High School's production of David and Lisa. Included in this thesis documentation are the three areas of research: preliminary information, pre-production analysis, and post-production evaluation.

Writing An Important Body Of Scholarship: A Proposal For An Embodied Rhetoric Of Professional Practice, Jane Hindman

Publications and Research

Identifies a set of professional discursive practices of rhetoric teachers that reveal gendered power relations. Proposes an "embodied rhetoric" characterized and authorized in part by specific sorts of personal author- and context-saturated gestures. Concludes that an embodied rhetoric regenders academic discourse, assures agency and power to feminist theory and praxis, and facilitates efforts to effect change in teachers and students' lives.

Visionaire 39: Play, Stephen Gan, Cecilia Dean, James Kaliardos, Greg Foley, Sony Corporation

Visionaire

16 volumes (unpaged) : all illustrations ; 31 cm + 16 flip books (13 x 7 cm), Editor-in-chief, Stephen Gan. Limited edition of 4000 copies. Consists of 16 artists' flip books (all 13 x 7 cm) displayed in a wooden case. Contributors: Mario Testino, Baz Luhman, Steven Meisel, Pedro Almadóvar, Karl Lagerfeld, Wong Kar Wai, Nick Knight, Spike Jonze, Craig McDean, Peter Lindbergh, Steven Klein, Tony Oursler, Darren Aronofsky, Roman Signer, Snorri Bros., Imaginary Forces and Greg Lynn. Each designer, director, etc. has created a flip book. Edition of 4000 copies. Library has copy no. 2616. Gift of the Publisher. …

Visionaire 38: Love Tiffany & Co, Stephen Gan, Cecilia Dean, James Kaliardos, Greg Foley, Tiffany And Co.

Visionaire

283 pages ; 21 cm + 1 case (27 x 20 x 8 cm)., Issue 38 of Visionaire consists of a romance novel, All Soul's Night, by John Kelly (New York: Harcourt, Brace and Company, c1947), to which new objects have been added by means of gluing or inserting them between the pages. Object include postcards, poems, photographs, a pop-up illustration, a fan letter (to the pop group Destiny's child), a feather, a cellophane sleeve containing pressed flowers (from singer Kylie Minogue) Embossed blind stamp on white title card mounted to front cover: Visionaire 38 Love. Mounted card inside front …

Journey To Understanding: An Introduction To North Dakota Tribes, Cheryl Ann Kary, Native American Training Institute

North Dakota Tribal History and Culture Series

Journey to Understanding: An Introduction to North Dakota Tribes is an introductory booklet intended to give a quick overview of Indigenous culture in North Dakota. It is a starting point for the rest of the North Dakota Tribal History & Culture series. The booklet explains the names and backgrounds of the nations that share geography with North Dakota. It also teaches basic cultural competency to facilitate interaction for people from a different background. The content is presented in the form of self-quizzes with provided answers. Journey to Understanding was originally used within the North Dakota Department of Human Services (NDDHS) …

Chalk, Talk, And Videotape: Utilizing Ken Burns’S Television Histories In The Classroom, Gary Edgerton

Scholarship and Professional Work - Communication

Gary Edgerton's contribution to OAH Magazine of History (Summer 2002) 16 (4): 16-22.

The Multiplex: The Modern American Motion Picture Theatre As Message, Gary Edgerton

Scholarship and Professional Work - Communication

Gary Edgerton's contribution to "Hark, Ina R. Exhibition, the Film Reader. London: Routledge, 2001. "

Marian Devotion In Religious Orders: Congregation Of Notre Dame (St. Marguerite Vourgeoys), Marie Azzarello

Marian Studies

No abstract provided.

Preface: The Marian Dimension Of The Christian Life: Ii. The Middle Period, Thomas A. Thompson

Marian Studies

No abstract provided.

Table Of Contents, Mariological Society Of America

Marian Studies

No abstract provided.