Arts and Humanities Commons^™

Making The Bed: Printed Sheets For Children Since 1960, Sarah Hayne Fitzsimmons

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Before the 1960s, bed sheets were usually white. Any decoration, whether applied by hand through applique, embroidery or crochet, or machine-printed, maintained the monochrome. As screen printing technology and more color-fast dyes were developed, multicolored printed bed sheets began to enter the American market. In 1960, two of the sheet patterns available in the Sears, Roebuck catalog; "Cowboys" and "Kittens," were intended specifically for children. Over the next thirty years, printed sheets for children became an increasingly booming American industry. This paper traces the evolution of these "kid sheets" from a social history point of view; focusing on the developing …

The Calligrammatic Pattern: An Aspect Of Modernism In French Textile Design, Lourdes M. Font

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper is less concerned with Twentieth Century French textiles as such than with what may have inspired their designers, with the possibilities suggested to textile artists in places where art, literature and design meet. To an artist with an appetite for the new, few places offered more possibilities than Paris in the decades before and after World War I. Between 1910 and 1940, textile designers working in Paris were part of a dose-knit community of the avant-garde that included writers, musicians, architects, painters, illustrators, interior and theatrical set designers, costumers and couturiers -- who not only mingled and took …

Textiles - An Art Form For The 90'S: Advancing Fiber With New Concepts & Marketing Strategies, Elizabeth Gaston, Laura Hill

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This panel discussion provided a forum for an exploration of the place and meaning of contemporary textile art. It was one of several concurrent panels held on the final afternoon of the Sixth Biennial Textile Society of America Symposium. Textiles An Art Form For the 90's brought together artists and enthusiasts from many backgrounds and with different perspectives. Four participants presented formal papers accompanied by slides. This was followed by a panel discussion.

The chairperson was Patricia Malarcher, editor of Surface Design Journal. She shared the viewpoint of the media. Malarcher also presented Susan Lordi Marker's paper. Marker …

Photographic Evidence For 19th Century Central Asian (Kat Production, Kate Fitz Gibbon

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Rare. early photographs can provide both factual information about the various technical processes used to produce Central Asian ikat fabrics and an evocative vision of the cities of Samarkand and Bukhara in the 19th century. These photographs demonstrate the physical structure and equipment of the various craft workshops necessary for ikat production, the preparation of the ikat warp. the application of the pattern, the dye process, and the weaving and finishing of the cloth. Other photographs show the production of the most common 19th century lining materials, and the marketing of ikat in the bazaars.

Ikat fabric received wide distribution …

Moses, Little Red Riding Hood And The Furniture Store: Wimpels (Torah Binders) In The Yeshiva University Museum Collection, Gabriel M. Goldstein

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Yeshiva University Museum (YUM) collection includes 56 examples of the type of Torah binder known as a wimpel. A Torah binder is a strip of fabric which is used to bind together the two staves and parchment of a Torah scroll. The Torah scroll, which contains the text of the Pentateuch (the first five books of the Hebrew Bible), is read in a cycle through the Jewish liturgical calendar. The proportions of the scroll thus change through the year, with one stave bearing the portion of the scroll which has been read, and the other stave bearing the …

Warp Ikat In Mindanao And Indonesia: Some Comparisons And Their Implications, Roy W. Hamilton

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Although textiles were a major focus of Laura Watson Benedict's work, the only book she published deals primarily with Bagobo ceremonial life and-only tangentially with textiles. She never fonowed up with any direct treatment of the textiles themselves and neither she nor anyone since has ever published a systematic description and classification of the warp ikat textiles of the various weaving groups in Mindanao. The work that went into developing From the Rainbow's Varied Hue, involving not only Benedict's collection, but several others around the world, has put us in a much better position for doing so. This paper …

The Fabrication Of Good Government: Images Of Silk Production In Southern Song (1127-1279) And Yuan (1279-1368) China, Roslyn Hammers

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In China, Gengzhi Tu or the Pictures of Tilling and Weaving as a distinct and separate genre was inaugurated in 1145 by Lou Shou, an official in the Southern Song bureaucracy. In that year he gave a set of two scrolls of poems and paintings to Emperor Gaozong. One was on the topic of cultivating rice and the other on the weaving of silk fabric. These scrolls formed a suite. The imagery and poetry, consisting of a breakdown of the procedures of production in a step by step manner, must be understood in their official context. The circumstances of Emperor …

A Horsehair Woven Band From County Antrim, Ireland: Clues To The Past From A Later Bronze Age Masterwork, Elizabeth Wincott Heckett

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

This paper has as its subject the narrow woven horsehair band from Cromaghs, Co. Antrim in Northern Ireland It is about two thousand eight hundred years old which places it in the Irish Later Bronze Age. Farming was well established in the country and skilled metal workers were producing tools, weapons and ornaments in bronze and gold. The horsehair ornament merits analysis because of its intricacy and outstanding artistry.

It is also important to explore what clues may lie within the band and the other finds associated with it. These may explain what the ornament represented to the people …

Suzani Vernacular: Technique And Design In The Central Asian Dowry Embroideries, Angela Izrailova

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Suzani, (also called Bukhara embroidery) is an embroidered piece of cloth made in the region of Central Asia. The word "suzan" comes from Farsi and means needle, and suzani means "of the needle." Suzanis, which differ in size, pattern, function and types of stitches, were embroidered exclusively by women, rvfuslim and Jewish, from all social backgrounds. They were an important part of a girl's dowry and were used for decorative purposes in Central Asian households.

Although suzanis have been produced since c.17501 they are still relatively unexamined by textile scholars. In the late 1980s, …

Creating Textiles In Belgium During Tbe 20th Century: A Large Weaving Manufacturer, A Small Textile Studio And A Contemporary Textile Designer., Elsje Janssen

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Belgium, and most of all Flanders, has a strong textile history with many large manufacturers as well as some promising young textile designers. This lecture will focuss on three periods in time: the beginning, the middle and the end of the 20th century, three different kind of makers: a large manufacturer, a small studio and an independent textile designer, three methods: machine woven jacquard interior fabrics, simple handwoven household textiles and exclusive samples handwoven on a 24 shafts computerised loom, and three types of markets: the export market, the local Belgian market and both.

Most of the weaving mills active …

The Troyes Manuscript: Technology And Design In Fifteenth-Century Tapestry, Tina Kane

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

The question I am considering is a general one: how were medieval tapestries designed and produced? While we know how they were woven, less is known about the design process. One of the primary sources for what we do know comes from a fifteenth-century manuscript discovered by a French scholar, Ph. Guignard, in Troyes in the mid-nineteenth century. By examining this manuscript we can see some of the elements involved in the technology and design of fifteenth-century French tapestries. We begin, then, with the manuscript itself which, for this study, I have translated from the medieval French.

The Troyes …

Cheney Brothers, The New York Connection, Carol Dean Krute

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Cheney Brothers turned a failed venture in seri-culture into a multi-million dollar silk empire only to see it and the American textile industry decline into near oblivion one hundred years later. Because of time and space limitations this paper is limited to Cheney Brothers' activities in New York City which are, but a fraction, of a much larger story.

Brothers and beginnings

Like many other enterprising Americans in the 1830s, brothers Charles (1803-1874), Ward (1813-1876), Rush (1815-1882), and Frank (1817-1904), Cheney became engaged in the time consuming, difficul t business of raising silk worms until they discovered that speculation …

List Of Authors

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Auditorium Papers

Site Seminars

Abstracts Only

Alternative Trade Marketing: Three Approaches To Textile Design And Production, Mary A. Littrell, Marsha A. Dickson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Alternative Trade Organizations (ATOs) are businesses that are deeply committed to a mission of sustainable, people-centered development. By paying textile artisans "as much as possible" rather than "as little as possible," ATOs contrast dramatically with mainstream textile marketers whose attention is directed to meeting customer demand and expanding shareholder profits. A fair trade partnership between textile artisans and retailers involves joint commitment to paying fair wages, offering equitable employment opportunities, providing healthy and safe working conditions, offering technical training, and honoring cultural identity as a stimulus for textile product development. Textiles are marketed through retail specialty stores and catalogs in …

Dressing By-The-Book: The Significance Of The Sample Book In The Marketing Of American Men's Apparel 1925-1930, Diane Maglio

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Dressing by-the-book, or using illustrated and swatched sample books to buy fashionable apparel, offered the American man extensive assortments of fabrics, colors, and styles, often more than he could get from the local merchant's stock. The sample book was convenient for the seller because he could offer more apparel options to his customers without purchasing inventory in advance of sales. Sample books were used both by retailers selling custom-made clothing for wholesale manufacturers and direct sellers. Direct sellers, representing manufacturing companies, carried a sample book straight to the customer by-passing the retail venue. In this paper two types of apparel …

Light And Shadow: The Textile Designs Of Edward Steichen, Lola Mcknight

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In response to a request from Kneeland [Ruzzie] Green, who was both Art Director of Stehli Silk Corporation and a close personal friend, Steichen contributed a group of modernist photographic designs to Stehli's Americana Prints collection, a series of artistdesigned textiles [1925-1927]. While several prominent graphic artists and national personalities contributed to this collection meant for use on silk dress fabric, the adaptations of Edward Steichen's silver gelatin prints received more attention from the Stehli company and from the contemporary press than any other single artist who designed Americana prints. These photographic images of weeds, carpet tacks, sugar cubes, thread …

Kynoch Tartan: A Cultural Analysis Of Small Mill Production Based On Technological, Market And Social Frameworks, Ann Mclennan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

"The picture of the industrial worker is not the portrait of the whole manthis can be painted, if at all, only after tracing his other social involvements and incorporating them."

A cultural analysis of any large entity such as a Mill is a difficult procedure.The focus of the following research is the development of a proto-industrial woollen Mill in rural Northern Scotland from the mid 18th century to the latter 20th century. It is sometimes difficult to separate linen,jute and woollen textile experiences as workers share so much in skill and social circumstance. Indeed, part of the curiosity of the …

Jessie Franklin Turner: American Fashion And "Exotic" Textile Inspiration, Patricia E. Mears

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Jessie Franklin Turner was an American couturier who played a prominent role in the emergence of the high-fashion industry in this country, from its genesis in New York during the First World War to the flowering of global influence exerted by Hollywood in the thirties and forties. The objective of this paper is not only to reveal the work of this forgotten designer, but also to research the traditional and ethnographic textiles that were important sources of inspiration in much of her work. Turner's hallmark tea gowns, with their mix of "exotic" fabrics and flowing silhouettes, evolved with the help …

Handwoven Dowries From The Gotse Delchev Region Of Bulgaria, Miriam Milgram

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

In the Gotse Delchev area of Bulgaria, girls in many villages still bring hand-woven dowry items to their wedding. These items include bread cloths, aprons, baby carriers, horse rugs. floor rugs, and bed covers. The dowry items are prepared by the girl and her mother, beginning as early as the daughter's birth in some cases. Since a girl and her family are Judged upon the quality of the work, it is of great importance that the hand-woven items demonstrate skill and aesthetic values. The competition to have the best possible dowry items leads to 'stealing' especially fine patterns, which in …

The Confraternity Of Embroiderers In Salamanca During The Sixteenth Century: Its Members And Their Work, Marta Newman-Laguardia

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

The city of Salamanca, capital of the province of the same name, is situated in western Spain. Salamanca was famous during the Renaissance due to its prestigious University founded by King Alphonse IX in the Thirteenth century. The city of Salamanca is also known for its famous architectural and historical landmarks, especially its characteristic Plateresque Style, a decorative technique of shallow relief and intricate detail named for its resemblance to the art of the platero (silversmith). The most representative building is the entrance to the University, which symbolize the great renown of Salamanca in the Sixteenth century. Moreover, Salamanca …

The Organization Of Work On Ancient Peruvian Embroideries: Putting People Back Into The Cloth, Anne Paul

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

During the early years of this century, treasure hunters working the arid Peruvian south coast discovered well-preserved textiles that were unlike anything previously known from the Central Andes. Simple in structure (plain weave with embroidery) but stunning in appearance, these textiles had been hidden from human eyes for almost two millennia, buried in desert graves on the Paracas Peninsula. One of these textiles, a mantle in the collection of the American Museum of Natural History in New York, is the subject of this essay. It and other Paracas textiles are so remote from us in time and in culture that …

Damask Linen Manufacture And Marketing At The Turn-Of-The-Century: Interpreting The Biltmore House Collection, Kate Rehkopf

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Damask linen manufacture has a long and varied history. Appearing in Europe around the fifth century, damask linens quickly became desired by those possessing great wealth. Figured damask linen was especially prized and was often the only type of table cover to be used by royalty. Heraldic crests, hunting scenes, historical events, and other symbols or occasions of cultural importance were memorialized in figured damask linen. By the end of the nineteenth century, the use of figured damask linens was a symbol of royalty, luxury, and beauty.

These attributes figured prominently in the appointment of George Washington Vanderbilt's home, Biltmore, …

Faith. Hope, And Charity: Making Madras, C. 1880-1930

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Weft·figured Scotch leno gauze, known as madras, was made in Darvel and other Ayrshire townships that had by 1800 become highly specialized in the production of fine, patterned cotton fabrics. This paper shows how pride in madras-weaving skills and a desire to maintain them not only perpetuated the design and manufacture of these cloths, but also inspired the development of new cloth types. It demonstrates the significance of a passing reference in Three Generations in a Family Textile Firm (Jocelyn Morton 1971, p.49) to the response by Alexander Morton - a Darvel madras weaver turned merchant/manufacturer by 1870 - …

The Timelessness Of Damask, Milton Sonday

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The damask technique as we know it today is probably one of the oldest techniques (if not the oldest) for weaving figured patterns that has an unbroken tradition that continues today in forms that are commercially and artistically strong.

The origin of the technique can be placed in the Far East centuries before the opening of the Christian era. The specific loom mechanisms that are often used to define damask weaving were used in China before the Tang period (A.D. 618-907). A remarkable number of silks survive from early periods of development.

In addition to being defined as a specific …

Links In A Chain: The Collaborative Process Of Creating Textiles For The Interior Design Industry, Krista Stack

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This site seminar will take you to the Larsen Design Studio where Jack Lenor Larsen has guided his company for the past 45 years. Mr. Larsen is currently retired and acts as a consultant, but the design process continues. This presentation will show the many processes and people involved in the creation of textiles for the interior design industry today. Each fabric is a combination of available technology, personal inspiration, and market demand. We will track the story of some significant Larsen classics from the creation of the original artwork through development decisions including materials, structure, color direction, price consideration, …

Introduction To The Panel, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The socio-historical factors of this era, including the effect of foreign culture, influenced consumer choice and production decisions regarding meisen textiles. Industrialization brought by the West generated demand for a new urban labor force, thereby providing for women work and educational opportunities that had not previously existed The cloth produced duringJhis time in history spoke of a kind of freedom and a conspicuous popular taste that celebrated women is changing position. Looking at the way women expressed themselves through textiles provides a wonderful approach to understanding this period of recent Japanese history.

Meisen was a commercial term for a popular, …

Concept, Considerations And Creativity Designing And Making Textiles For The Contract Industry, Elizabeth Whelan

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Designing fabrics for the contract marketplace is more than just applying artistic and technical expertise to the medium. Textiles are often created and made with specific products in mind, such as furniture, panel fabrics, drapery, healthcare fabrics, and wallcovering. In addition to making fabrics that suit a particular function, the textiles also need to perform under basic industry guidelines and appeal to various aesthetic standards. The aesthetic standard is determined by market forces that comprise of a diverse customer base: architects, interior designers, facilities managers, and other product makers such as office furniture makers. American textile jobbers sell to this …

Morris De Camp Crawford And The "Designed In America" Campaign, 1916-1922, Lauren D. Whitley

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The start of the First World War stimulated among other things a reassessment of America's relationship with Europe. Many in the art world voiced the need for the industrial arts to assert independence and William Laurel Harris echoed popular sentiment when he wrote in Good Furniture magazine:

We are ..... a great industrial nation without an industrial art. Now is the time, and now is the hour, when by intelligent action our manufacturers can rectify this lack of practical thought in our educational efforts. The manufacturers, the educators and the artistic portion of the nation must join hands in creating …

Agincourt Carol, Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

The best known of all English carols (also called the Agincourt Song), this composition celebrates the victory of Henry V at Agincourt in 1415 and was probably written shortly thereafter. It survives in two of the most important collections of 15th-century carols, the Trinity Roll (Cambridge, Trinity College 0.3.58) and the Egerton Manuscript (BL Egerton 3307). Reference is made to the siege ofHarfleur, success on the field at Agincourt, and the return to London in triumph with hostages. As is often the case, this carol mixes two languages. The burden, or framing refrain, is in Latin ("Deo gratias Anglia, redde …

Alanus, J[Ohannes] (D. 1373), Peter M. Lefferts

Glenn Korff School of Music: Faculty Publications

John Aleyn, a musician and administrator in royal service, was from 1363 to 1373 a canon of St. George's Chapel, Windsor, and from 1361 to 1373 a chaplain of the Royal Household Chapel of Edward III. The last decade of his career is well documented, and he enjoyed the frequent and lucrative patronage of Edward and Queen Philippa, holding numerous benefices. Upon his death he bequeathed a book of music to the chapel at Windsor. Though the surname is common, this individual is the strongest candidate for the J. Alanus who wrote the extraordinary musicians' motet Sub arturo plebs and …