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Flaubert's Dis/En Closures, Marshall C. Olds

French Language and Literature Papers

The topos of the window and analogous framing devices is one of the recurrent characteristics of Flaubert's work, and, as examples of this discretionary practice, one need recall only some of the many scenes that are framed by windows: the view of Yonville through the carriage window or the stainedglass window that is, very nearly, La Légende de Saint Julien l'hospitalier. But windows are only incidentally our concern, for as the views of Yvetot and Constantinople equally signify something beyond themselves, so does this topos tie into a larger question, which is the evolution of Flaubert's practice of closure.

The …

Uses And Misuses Of Language: Uwe Johnson’S Ingrid Babendererde As A Gdr Novel, Robert K. Shirer

German Language and Literature Papers

Uwe Johnson is seldom discussed as a GDR author, for it was not until after his 1959 decision «to relocate,» as he put it, to the West that Johnson became established as a literary force. Literary historians often mention Johnson along with Gunther Grass and Martin Walser when they discuss the important novelists that burst onto the literary scene in West Germany at the end of the 1950’s. But Johnson’s work—from Mutamaßsunmgen über Jakob to Jahrestage—is unthinkable without his education and experiences in the Soviet Occupation Zone and the GDR. With the posthumous publication of his first novel Ingrid …

"Introduction" To Content And Context Of Visual Arts In The Islamic World: Papers From A Colloquium In Memory Of Richard Ettinghausen, Carol Bier, Priscilla P. Soucek

Textile Research Works

The edited papers presented in this memorial volume offer tribute to Richard Ettinghausen, scholar, teacher, curator and friend, a great man who affected within his own lifetime the study of Islamic art throughout the Western world. Through the high caliber of his scholarship and his discerning connoisseurship, he had a profound effect on the intellectual development of those whom he touched through his manifold activities, whether in publications, formal lectures, or an informal sharing of his knowledge. In recognition of his many achievements he received in 1976 "Pour le Merite," the highest civil decoration awarded by the Federal Republic of …

Blanket Statements, Issue 14, August 1988

Blanket Statements: News Publication of the American Quilt Study Group

Blanket Statements, Issue 14, August 1988

Miniature Masterworks, Daphne A. Deeds

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

Miniature does not merely mean small. When applied to painting, the term "miniature" conveys art historical and psychological meanings of greater import than simple dimensions may indicate. "Miniature Masterworks" offers a diverse group of undersized paintings which are related by virtue of their size, but which reveal larger issues pertinent to the history of twentieth century art.

While artists have used the miniature format throughout the history of art, the tradition of small scale paintings was rather recently reestablished in America, via the French. In part as a reaction to large, Neoclassical paintings commissioned by grand patrons, and depicting ideal …

The University Of Maryland Historic Textile Data Base, Clarita Anderson

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

Our charge today is to discuss strategies and methodologies for gathering and extracting data from textiles. My specific task is to discuss the University of Maryland Historic Textile Data Base. This Data Base was officially established in September 1986 with a grant from the College of Human Ecology. Its purpose was to establish a sophisticated data management program on personal computers to handle the massive amounts of data necessary for research in this area. The long range goal of this project is to include all flat textiles. The immediate goal is to establish a data base on coverlets.

Before …

Wringing It Dry: The Challenge Of Prehistoric Textiles, Elizabeth Barber

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Some time ago I embarked on a "short little project" to find out what I could about Bronze Age Aegean textiles, which I had come to suspect were more elaborate and more important than anyone was giving them credit for. I knew the project could not take very long, and would not take more than maybe ten pages to write up, because virtually nothing in the way of textiles has survived from Greece—even in the Classical period, let alone the prehistoric era. But my father, who was a physicist, had instilled into me a question that changed everything: namely, "(If …

A French "Kashmir" Shawl In The Collection Of The Metropolitan Museum, Arlene Cooper

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This paper proposes a French provenance for a rare and superb long white shawl¹ in the collection of the Textile Study Room (TSR) of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This shawl has generally been thought to have been woven in Kashmir from a French design because of its weave structure, double weft-interlocked 2/2 twill, a characteristically Indian technique. The quality of the shawl is comparable to the finer Kashmir and French shawls of the earlier 19th c.; there are between 43 and 53 wefts per centimeter of goat hair in 12 colors used so effectively there appear to be …

Dedication- 1988, Milton Sonday

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This published proceeding is a milestone in the development of the Textile Society of America, a professional organization for people involved with the study and care of textiles. Without the strong and consistent guiding hand of its founding president, Peggy Gilfoy, the first steps of this fledgling organization would have been so painless, nor its accomplishments so impressive.

Peg's untimely death in November, 1988, has come as a shock to us all. For the Textile Society of America there can be no more fitting memorial to this generous colleague and scholar than the dedication of this volume to Peggy Stolz …

Crepe, Lillian Elliott

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

This report is on Crepe, which I have been weaving for eighteen years. I've chosen to achieve crepe effects not by weave structure or finishing techniques, but by the amount, direction, and combination of spin in the yarn. In my work I have used available commercial yarns almost exclusively, although I am interested in handspun yarn effects as well. I've chosen to use plain weave or tabby, so as to eliminate other elements, and focus on the effects of the spin of the yarn.

The area on which I concentrated was intentionally limited; using plain wave I first combined different …

Manila Galleon Trade Textiles: Cross-Cultural Influences On New World Dress, Abby Sue Fisher

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Spanning a 250 year period from 1565-1815, the Manila Galleon Trade is a fascinating period in history which is addressed far too infrequently by textile scholars. The cross-cultural contact resulting from the Spanish conquest of America expanded to include Asia with the start of the trans-Pacific trade in 1565. Spanish trade ships sailed between Manila in the Philippines and Acapulco in New Spain, becoming the most enduring trade route in history. Three continents were involved: Asia, the Americas, and Europe, and consequently three entirely different cultures with their corresponding customs, belief systems and art styles. The steady contact between these …

Orientation And Symmetry: The Structuring Of Pattern Repeats In The Paracas Necropolis Embroideries, Mary Frame

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The most extensive Peruvian fabric remains come from the archeological site of Paracas Necropolis on the South Coast of Peru. Preserved by the dry desert conditions, this cache of 429 mummy bundles, excavated in 1926-27, provides an unparalleled opportunity for comparing the range and nature of variations in similar fabrics which are securely related in time and space. The bundles are thought to span the time period from 500-200 B.C.

The most numerous and notable fabrics are embroideries: garments that have been classified as mantles, tunics, wraparound skirts, loincloths, turbans and ponchos. In general, a single figure is repeated in …

A World Of Costume And Textiles, Susan Anderson Hay

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Susan Anderson Hay announced the publication of A World of Costume and Textiles: A Handbook of the Collection at the Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design. Written by 13 authors, the book illustrates and describes 113 of the most important textiles and costumes in this superb collection. Begun in the 1870s with the founding of the Museum of Art, the textile and costume collection contains about 14,000 textiles and 6,000 examples of costume. It ranges from ancient Egyptian linen to contemporary Japanese artists' textiles and includes everything from colorful African Rente cloths to the early sixteenth century Flemish …

Index To Authors- 1988

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INDEX TO AUTHORS

A-Z pp.165-69 (6 pages)

Anderson, Clarita

Baizerman, Suzanne

Barber, Elizabeth

Beardsley, Grace

Cooper, Arlene

Davis, Virginia

El-Homossani, M. M

Elliott, Lillian

Felsher, Lynn

Femenias, Blenda

Fisher, Abby Sue

Frame, Mary

...

Washbum, Dorothy K

Westfall, Carol D.

Wilson, Laurel Elizabeth

Techniques And Production Complexity Of Mississippian Period Textiles From Spiro, Oklahoma, Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The archaeological site of Spiro, which is located in eastern Oklahoma, was a major civic-ceremonial center of the Mississippian cultural period from approximately A.D. 900 to 1400. These prehistoric peoples developed an extensive trade network, a highly developed religious center, and a political system which controlled the region. An exceptionally rich assemblage of artifacts has been recovered from the mounds at Spiro, and Craig Mound has produced the most extensive collection of preserved prehistoric textiles in the southeastern United States (Brown 1976, King & Gardner 1981, Kuttruff 1988).

METHODS:

A purposeful sample of 71 Spiro textile specimens from burial context …

The Kings As Gods: Textiles In The Thai State, H. Leedom Lefferts Jr,

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

If one observes the principles of Theravada Buddhist art, Thai textiles appear to pose a paradox. On the one hand, Buddhist art is defined as progressing hierarchically from representational to aniconic motifs, replicating movement from worlds of lesser merit to worlds of greater merit. On the other hand, we have the gloriously figurative and expensive garments worn by Thai royalty and adorning gods as depicted in temple murals. How is this seeming discrepancy to be explained?

A recent translation of a section of a larger work by the noted French scholar on Southeast Asia and Buddhism, Paul Mus, titled "The …

Transmutations Of The Tartan: Attributed Meanings To Tartan Design, Richard Martin

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

We all associate meaning with textile designs. If we can see the principles of Revolutionary zeal and the sanction of family life and work in one textile design, we can perceive the explicit Modernism of another and realize that in the complex decisions that comprise the creation of a textile, we have fashioned our world and its values. Perhaps the textile is small, but its condensed values and meaning may be a more clarified perception about the world than most others. For many, such as Roland Barthes, textiles and clothing can thereby be described as a sign system offering a …

The Validity Of Studies Of Pattern And Structure: Case Histories, Milton Sonday

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The importance of the analysis of continuous pattern and detailed recordings of the structures of lampas and velvet was driven home to me during my work on the Textile Museum's Safavid project. This resulted in "Pattern and Weaves, Safavid Lampas and Velvet" pp. 57-83 in the catalogue Woven from the Soul, Spun from the Heart published by The Textile Museum, Bier (1987). Practically anyone with a minimum knowledge of Iranian Safavid art and design of the 16th and 17th centuries can recognize a standard Safavid-style lampas and velvet because of motif. Therefore, why go any farther? Perhaps you don't, but …

Analysis Of Pattern Structure By Geometric Symmetries, Dorothy K. Washburn

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

While a large literature exists on the technologies different peoples use to manufacture woven fabrics (cf. Emery 1966), little attention has been given to developing equally systematic ways to study the patterns produced. This paper outlines one approach to pattern analysis which utilizes mathematical symmetries to describe the way design parts are arranged in a pattern. The advantages of this method are discussed and examples of a number of problems that such an analysis of pattern structure can address are described.

SYMMETRY ANALYSIS:

Symmetry analysis is a mathematically based description of the structure of a pattern. It specifies the …

Feltmaking, Carol D. Westfall

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Felt is considered mankind's oldest textile. Created of wool or hair through pressure and shocking, and the application of heat and cold, felt is a warm, sturdy fabric used for shelter, clothing, carpets, saddles, and bags or container covers. Feltmaking is a world-wide tradition in the sense that it is practiced in such disparate regions as Mongolia, Central Europe, Central Asia, the Middle East and North Africa.

In the souk in Marrakech, Morocco, a two-sided prayer rug is created, one side white and one side grey, using the natural color of the fleece. The process involves the addition of soap …

The Valley Series: Recent Paintings By Keith Jacobshagen, Daphne A. Deeds

Sheldon Museum of Art: Catalogs and Publications

Keith Jacobshagen has been a member of the Art Department at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln since 1968. During the past ten years, he has established a national. reputation as a painter of the mid-western landscape. His studies of the plains are thoughtful assessments of familiar views. But, while Jacobshagen's paintings document the particular conditions of weather, light, topography, and their effect on the land, they also transcend the specific to function as metaphors for the human condition: a solitary viewer surveying an expanse of farm land; a transitory, cloudy sky meeting the cultivated fields; the sky as mystery touching the …

Piecing In Twill Tapestry Shawls Of Persia And Kashmir, Grace C. Beardsley

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The 19th century witnessed the development of considerable piecework in the manufacture of twill tapestry shawls in both Kashmir and Persia. Modes of construction parallel so closely as to be indistinguishable. This is not surprising considering the centuries-long lively cultural intercourse between the two areas and especially their exchange of designs, weavers and textile technology. In both regions piecework was a response to pressure for faster production, the culmination of a gradual shift from atelier weaving toward a mass market.

Among construction modes, the weaving and subsequent assembly of many rectilinear shapes is to be found especially among long shawls. …

Colonial Ecuadorian Yndias And Their Textiles, Blenda Femenias

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Quito, Ecuador was a well established colonial urban center by the late sixteenth century. Although dominated by the Spanish ruling elite, indigenous people (male yndios, female yndias} and those of both Spanish and Andean ancestry (mestizos, mestizas} were socially and economically active in Quito. Cloth was a major trade item and prestige good, which circulated widely in Quito society and throughout the Andes. In pre-Hispanic times, Quito was not a major cloth-production center, and most fabric was imported from elsewhere in the Andes. During the colonial period, in addition to Andean textiles, European fabrics, as …

Theme And Variations: Creative Improvisation In African Textiles, Peggy S. Gilfoy

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The Euro-American textile patterning vocabulary focusses on compartmentalization and symmetry. We describe textile design schemes as "repeats;" and as with many aspects of our lives, we divide our expressions into neat cubicles. The art historian, Meyer Shapiro, who wrestled with this cultural trait expressed it this way:

"Hardening of the categories causes art disease."

Yet, for many art-producing cultures there is scant division between the working world and the spiritual, the procurement of food and maintenance of order; relating history and group entertainment. Art is life. The function of artistic structure and the tenets of life are often interwoven.

Theme …

Designing Among The Navajo: Ethno Aesthetics In Weaving, Ann Lane Hedlund

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

Navajo weaving from northeastern Arizona and contiguous areas if the American Southwest is widely recognized for colors and patterns that range from subtle shades to dynamic brilliance, from soft stripes to bold geometries to fanciful pictorials. The apparent diversity in this native textile art, developed over the past three centuries, has defied any unified description of The Navajo Style. While Navajo blankets and rugs may be superficially categorized and classified, put into chronological sequences and evolutionary schemes, when the textiles are viewed synoptically, the delineation of Navajo aesthetics remains a formidable task.

The search for a Navajo style and sense …

Goddess Imagery In Greek Folk Costume, Linda Welters, Linda Tepfenhart

Textile Society of America: Symposium Proceedings

The seeds of this research were sown in a textile exhibition entitled "Goddesses and Their Offspring: 19th and 20th Century Eastern European Embroideries" at the Roberson Center for the Arts in Binghamton, N.Y. in 1986. Similarities between the imagery of Eastern European textiles and the embroideries in Greek folk costume prompted this study. It was part of a larger field research project on Boeotian folk costumes sponsored by Earthwatch in the summer of 1988

A "hot topic" of discussion among feminists of all disciplines is the image of the prehistoric goddess and the ensuing implications for all women everywhere. I …

Message Of Greeting From The Fellowship President, Jonathan G. Ouvry

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

Having been intrigued by the puzzle on P. 87 of the previous edition of the Review my mind has turned to anagrams (perhaps the Review should have a crossword puzzle - I enjoy a crossword puzzle!) but without any great success. Trying "George Eliot" produces various unpromising words like "tiger" and "girl", but nothing very relevant. If only there were an "n" Eng. Lit. would appear quite satisfactory.

Turning to the name Adams, again I find nothing very relevant. Kathleen is surely not "sad" about the undertaking she embarked on more than 20 years ago, though she may feel she …

To Educate Or Not To Educate: Patterns For Women In George Eliot's Novels, Linda K. Robertson

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

Throughout her novels, George Eliot points out the deplorable state of education for women in the nineteenth century and the effects that poor education has upon the individual. Only limited schooling, if any, was available to girls whose parents could not afford to pay substantial sums, and too much schooling for girls was commonly viewed as unnecessary and even dangerous. In addition, schools generally spent a large proportion of their time teaching various "accomplishments" and very little on more academic subjects. Characters in most of Eliot's novels reflect common perceptions on education for women and illustrate the undesirable results of …

Triangular Patterns In Middlemarch, David Ball

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

There has been no lack of awareness in modern criticism of the complexities and surprises of George Eliot's careful structuring of Middlemarch, particularly when it is presented in terms of duality. I will quote here only one very representative example, from W.}. Harvey's introduction to the Penguin edition of the novel:

It is not difficult to discern the pattern of this network (of parallels and contrasts). The contrast between Rosamond and Mary Garth, or between Rosamond and Dorothea; the combined parallel and contrast between the researches of Casaubon and Lydgate (both of them searching for a "key"); the way in …

Review Of The Prison Of Womanhood. Four Provincial In Nineteenth Century Fiction., Elizabeth Jane Macmillian

The George Eliot Review Online, ISSN: 2831-5375

This is an interesting but relatively obvious analysis of four female characters of major significance in 19th century fiction. Miss Sabiston is seeking to establish whether or not there is a 'feminine creative sensibility'. She notes the heroines' similarities, and as her analysis deepens, she maintains comparison and perspective by cross-reference. Thus Emma Bovary requires change of location for her romance, whereas Emma is manifestly tied by duty to her own area and rejects any idea of moving away. The sections devoted to Dorothea Brooke advance what seems to me to be very obvious arguments. The chapter, as with the …